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Interior & ExteriorDiscussions about the interior, and exterior of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Dash Rattle – Problems and Solutions", within the Interior & Exterior forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I think my rattle was caused by the wires coming off the plug at the top of the glove box opening. The wires had a lot of slack in them, and their plastic insulation was hitting the inside of the dash, so I just moved them around a little and now the rattle has stopped. I'm probably going to get some foam insulation of some sort to try to stuff in the opening to prevent the wires from moving around again.
My 04 DC does the same thing. I eliminated all the obvious stuff, change, keys, glove box etc. and finally discovered it was the lid on the passsenger side airbag. After posting/searching here, one of the moderators pointed me to the TSB for the TACO soooo on Monday my dealer is going to take care of it. Maybe yours is the same as mine?
Can someone point me to this TSB? Thanks.
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2001 2WD Silver Tundra: 4x4 TRD springs, Daystar 1", Carson AAL, red/blue Bilsteins, 265/75 Revo's, IS kit(minus bumper) and rims(hand polished), RF851X amp, Alpine HU, JL 6.5"XR comps, Qlogic with JL 8W3V2 subs. 176k miles and counting......
2005 Silver Sienna LE with 12" Overhead DVD
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | Nurf Bars | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
I have an 02 that has developed a slight pinging sound that sounds as if to be coming from the dash around the left vent area. I assume that if it is coming from the vent, the cause could be just about anywhere because of how sound can travel through that system.
Has anyone else had a similar noise? I am also wondering if anyone has any pics or instructions on removing the dash so I can do some investigation as to the cause of this.
Yup...I have test driven quite a number of tundras from 2001 to 2004 and nearly all have this problem of dash creak or rattle. They range from a slight creak when going over bumps to constant creak when driving on normal roads. I have a new 05 and I do get occasional creak coming from the centre/passenger dash side. If it gets worse, I might use the backing method to cure it. Thanks
My truck was at the dealer for a couple of problems in which the truck had to be driven. The tech told the service writer about the dash rattle (wasn't there for that problem) and the writer checked to see if it was covered by my platnium warranty. It wasn't so I asked how much to fix it. $700 is what I was quoted. I told him I could live with noise. Thanks for the backer suggestion.
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2001 Tundra TRD Access Cab 4x4, SAW/Camburg coilovers, TC diff drop kit, Wheeler's Offroad AAL and Bilstein 5100's, LT265/75R16 Revos on Wheeler's black alloys, True Flow intake tube and filter with a modded air box, JBA titanium coated headers, Aero 2525 muffler with stainless steel pipes and resonator removed, Skidrow front skidplate, EBC "green" brake pads, Wheelers stainless brake hose kit, Helweig swaybar, Wheeler's polyurathane front swaybar bushing kit,TRD "posi" 3rd member, debadged, backseat-power outlet-map lamp-taillight mod, Optima red top, TRD mirror covers painted flat black, Silverstar fog light bulbs, , Viair 300P air compressor
Wish list: Line X'd front and rear bumper, rock sliders
I bought my '04 DC Tundra about 2 months ago, and about 2 weeks ago a really annoying rattle started coming from the passenger side of the dash. I cannont pin point exactly where it's coming from, so I was wondering if anyone here might have an idea and how to stop it? There's a plastic plug at the top of the glove box opening, and I was hoping it was something to do with that, but from what I have tried to stop it, it isn't.
Thanks,
Jason
I have an 05DC and the rattle is coming from the passengers side. My girlfriend noticed it this past weekend and we cannot pin-point its exact location. I think its coming from where the dash meets the windshield on that passenger side. Should I take my truck to the dealer and see what they can do about it?
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When I raise my flashing sword, and my hand takes hold on judgment, I will take vengeance upon mine enemies, and I will repay those who haze me. Oh, Lord, raise me to Thy right hand and count me among Thy saints.
It works!!! I had bought the rod a couple weeks ago, and was waiting for a day when the squeak was really bad to put it in so I could see if it made a difference... Well, today was the day and after a short test drive, I give it a qualified ! I'll have to drive for a couple more days to make sure, but I'm happy right now!
Now if I could just figure out the seat squeak I have, I'd have a quiet truck again!!!!
I had the noise coming from the centre of the dash close to the windshield. I also have a squeak over on the passenger side. I went to the dealer 4 times with no luck . I removed the centre console and the radio. With a flashlight I was able to see marks on the y-fitting for the defrost vent directly behind the radio. The marks appear to be inline with the plastic multiconductor conectors located at the back of the radio. I installed felt over the marks. The noise on the passenger side I found to be coming from the duct work also. After removing the glove box I followed the visible duct arround until it went up towards the side vent. It then inserts inside another smaller piece of duct that is connected to the side vent. There does not appear to be any insulation between the 2 ducts. When I move this part of the duct I hear the squeak. Since the area is busy with wire harness and the air bag I will take it back to the dealer and request they install some foam or felt to insulate the 2 ducts.
I posted this on "creaking dash" thread but thought I'd post it here too in the interest of helping out:
I've had this same noise for about 6 months now and have tolerated it, but since I'm leaving on 1200 mile round trip in a few days (towing a camper) and hated the idea of spending that much time behind the wheel listenening to a creaking dash (combined with my 3 year old son's constant chatter), I tore into the dash yesterday and seem to have managed to "de-creak" it. This was done by insulating the center console trim and "adjusting" the passenger side dashboard / airbag placement. If interested read on.
I started by removing the radio / climate control trim panel. This is done (on my 2000 model Access Cab) by pointing the two center vents up. This will reveal the screws, one per vent, that hold the upper part of the trim panel. Remove these. Then pull the 3 climate control knobs by simply grasping and pulling straight out. This reveals a single screw per knob that, when removed, will allow removal of the trim piece. I felt that by placing a foam strip around the recessed part of the dash where the trim piece makes contact I should be able to stop the annoying noise. I just needed the foam. After looking around the garage I found what I needed. I cut a piece of "camper tape" (the kind sold in rolls at auto parts stores to put along your bed rails before you put a camper top on) down to about a 1/4" wide and about 2' long. I peeled the backing off and stuck it across the aforementioned opening and put everything back together. I then found that I was actually dealing with more than one noise source. This definately stopped the little noises coming from the center console trim but I still had the one louder noise coming from the center of the dash.
I then dropped the glove box and removed the trim panel behind it. This was done by opening the glove box and emptying the contents. If you don't empty, this will be done for you in the next step. You should now be able to see the stops on the glove box that prevent it from dropping down. You want to firmly, but not forcefully, push in on one side of the glove box to get that side's stop past the dash. This is somewhat difficult, but once done the other side comes past pretty easy. With the box dropped you can now see the black plastic trim panel behind the glove box. Remove the 3 screws holding this and remove panel. You should now be staring face to face with the passenger side airbag assembly. At this point you may want to disconnect the battery. I never had to disconnect or jar the airbag assembly during this process but common sense said it should have the power off since all wiring to it was coded yellow. When looking directly at the assembly, 2 12mm hex bolt heads can be seen (the only ones right in front and easily accessable). If these are loosened or removed you will see the the holes in the tabs, going up to dash, are oval or oblong shaped. At this point I checked for the annoying creak again and it was gone! Of course I couldn't leave the bolts loose but it did leave me wondering why the holes were oval instead of round. I then got my trusty and willing assistant (grumbling wife) and had her push down (again firmly but not forcefully) on the top of the dash / air bag assembly. This pushed the tabs downward about 1/8th". I tightened down and low and behold NO CREAKS. I put everything back (you know: "installation is opposite removal") and test drove. I now have a "new again" truck. Time will tell but it definately made a difference. Of course I can't guarantee anything buy maybe this will help some of you who bought a Toyota for same reasons I did: squeak-free and reliability.
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2K Tundra LTD 4WD
JBA Headers, Magnaflow dual out exhaust, True-Flow CAI, NGK iridiums plugs, royal purple in the diffs, and FREEWAY BLASTER DUAL HORNS.
2006 .....Off to Home Depot. If this does not work there is gonna be a surprise theft or fire!! I can't stand the noise. Truck went from sweet to crap in just one bump.
I think I fixed it
Backer rod Installation
Backer rod Installation
. I removed the centre console and the radio. With a flashlight I was able to see marks on the y-fitting for the defrost vent directly behind the radio. The marks appear to be inline with the plastic multiconductor conectors located at the back of the radio. I installed felt over the marks. The noise on the passenger side I found to be coming from the duct work also. After removing the glove box I followed the visible duct arround until it went up towards the side vent. It then inserts inside another smaller piece of duct that is connected to the side vent. There does not appear to be any insulation between the 2 ducts. When I move this part of the duct I hear the squeak. Since the area is busy with wire harness and the air bag I will take it back to the dealer and request they install some foam or felt to insulate the 2 ducts.
You should now be able to see the stops on the glove box that prevent it from dropping down. You want to firmly, but not forcefully, push in on one side of the glove box to get that side's stop past the dash. This is somewhat difficult, but once done the other side comes past pretty easy. With the box dropped you can now see the black plastic trim panel behind the glove box. Remove the 3 screws holding this and remove panel. You should now be staring face to face with the passenger side airbag assembly
. At this point you may want to disconnect the battery. I never had to disconnect or jar the airbag assembly during this process but common sense said it should have the power off since all wiring to it was coded yellow. When looking directly at the assembly, 2 12mm hex bolt heads can be seen (the only ones right in front and easily accessable). If these are loosened or removed you will see the the holes in the tabs, going up to dash, are oval or oblong shaped. At this point I checked for the annoying creak again and it was gone! Of course I couldn't leave the bolts loose but it did leave me wondering why the holes were oval instead of round. I then got my trusty and willing assistant (grumbling wife) and had her push down (again firmly but not forcefully) on the top of the dash / air bag assembly. This pushed the tabs downward about 1/8th". I tightened down and low and behold NO CREAKS. I put everything back (you know: "installation is opposite removal") and test drove. I now have a "new again" truck. Time will tell but it definately made a difference. Of course I can't guarantee anything buy maybe this will help some of you who bought a Toyota for same reasons I did: squeak-free and reliability.
Linear Mode
