00 TLC engine block coolant drain

[kwb210]

I'm changing the coolant on my 2000 TLC and would like to know where to look for the engine block coolant drain plug so I can get the balance of the anti-freeze out. I drained the radiator, simple w/ the little spout to connect a hose to, and got 6 quarts out. I want to get most of the remaining 8 (right? 14 total?) quarts out. I really hope Toyota installed the same style drain plug in the engine block...better than it squirting all over and running for a hundred different directions w/ at least one of those down your arm and shirt sleeve.
Where is it?
Thanks!
Kurt

btw, 1st post...I have a 2000 TLC w/ 75,000 miles, run Mobil 1 5w-30, Toyota filter, and change it roughly every 6,000 to 7,000 miles. I also usually drain out the transmission oil at the same time, I get 3.5 quarts out and replace it w/ Castrol Dexron/Mercon III. It just takes a couple of extra minutes to do it. Cheap insurance.

[Cruiser1]

G'day,

The coolant drain for the block is the hex headed plug closest to, but slightly above and forward of, the engine number. (Facing forward from the drivers seat - left hand side of the block, a couple of inches aft from the top rearmost attachment bolt for the engine mounting lug).

Go to it :-)

PS You might be interested that I was regularly changing my engine oil at about 4,500 Kilometres using a high quality non synthetic 15-40 that entirely met the required spec. At a little more than 135,000 Kilometres varnish from bitumen accumulation set around my cam followers. Note that it is bitumen, not engine sludge which is the slimy grey/black material that formed from the combining of moisture [condensation] with combustion soot [blow-by] before the advent of dispercancy factors in oils, and PCV systems.

When I went to start it from cold one morning, one cam shaft and all of the cam drive mechanical arrangements got crunched.

The bitumen forms from organic material in the oil that remains after the refining process. Smoke is generated when already hot oil mist that flings off the rotating crank components, comes in contact with excessively hot crankcase inner surfaces. This rises and collects on the cooler top end surfaces. Some drips down and finds its' way into the sump and circulates in the oil when heated.

Excessive heat soak in the crankcase can be present without any hint to the driver. - How? - Coolant flow (and thus heat transfer) up through the head gasket is considerably restricted by design and manufacture (very questionably I suggest). Hence, the heat build up in the block. But the massive aluminium castings above the block happily dissipate considerable amounts of heat from the heat load that actually does get to pass upwards in the coolant. The thermostat and bypass valve are therefore easily able to maintain the temperature of the coolant so that the flow past the sensor (situated near the outflow to radiator point) is such that the temperature indicator indicates right in the middle of the gauge. Thus the gauge can be giving the driver false comfort.

The bitumen accumulates because the prescribed normal servicing cannot remove all of the oil. The design of the drain plug and its' positioning prevent proper clearance of the sump. ie., the plug protrudes into the sump about half an inch and furthermore it is situated above the lowest point. So the bitumen that settles accumulates and is undetectable with normal servicing until it is too late. The oil uptake draws from the accumulating pool.

I've taken the following steps to correct these problems:

strategically recalibrated the new gasket and done a little fettling to minimise cavitation.

repositioned and reworked the sump drain so that every last drop will drain from the sump at any sensible incline of the vehicle.

changed to a fully synthetic 10 - 40.


I am pleased to note that Toyota recently changed their production oil spec and they also now market a fully synthetic motor oil. I wonder if these changes are a result of my having written to them suggesting, amongst other things, that their spec didn't seem to adequately take account of the real operating regime of the engine. But then who would know. Toyota seemed to treat me with disdain. I'll bet I'm not the first to experience this.

Kind regards

Cruiser1 in Aus.

[kwb210]

Found the drain petcock on the engine block, right above the oil pan. You gotta love the Japanese for adding a tiny little metal hose to attach a drain line to, no mess! Jst hooked up the drain line and loosened the 10 mm nut and drained the block, about 5 qts worth, into a bucket w/o spilling a drop.
Thank you for your exceent description fo where to find the drain.
Kurt