HOW-TO:Tundra - Extended SS Braided Brake Line Install (REAR)

[DevinSixtySeven]

This is not currently a plug&play install due to the nature of the Tundra hardline nuts.

The extended lines can be found at Offroad Solutions, www.offroadsolutions.com, and are the same lines as specified for use on a Tacoma. Mike @ Offroad Solutions figured this one out, I am successfully using their rear brake line.

Needed: New brake line, grinding wheel/dremel/equivalent, 10mm wrench, 10mmx0.1 bolt, adjustable monkey wrench, some DOT3/4 brake fluid, drip pan, plastic wrap

1. Obtain new brake line

2. If possible, find a 10x0.1mm metric bolt to plug your brake line at the rear proportioning cylinder while you do this, it will save you a little time bleeding the lines later.

3: DISCONNECTING THE OEM LINES

3A. Put a piece of plastic wrap over the u-joint in front of the rear differential, over the left side of the rear axle beneath the brake proportioning valve, and under/around the hardline connection at the center of the rear axle. Put a drip pan under the u-joint.

3B. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the nut on the hardline at the frame hanger directly over the rear axle u-joint. Disconnect the hardline, and use a pair of pliers to remove the cambered silver jam plate that holds the rubber OEM brake line in the hanger. Fluid will begin dripping at this point. Let the OEM rubber hose hang down to the drip pan while you disconnect the hose at the axle hardline union. I just used an adjustable monkey wrench, it doesn't take much torque. Make sure all the brake fluid drains out of the rubber line before you set it aside, and wipe off any fluid that splashed on the axle, u-joint, etc.
With the 10mm wrench again, disconnect the hardline from the brake proportioning valve. It is the top line on the valve. Once it's out, put the 10x0.1mm bolt in there, don't crank it down, it won't really seal, but it will keep the lines from gushing. Use needlenose pliers on the white plastic line clamps and your fingers on the hardline to maneuver the hardline out of the clamps.

4. Look at the stock hardline you removed. notice how the 10mm nut is slightly flared out at the end. It's not much, but it's just enough to get in the way and jam inside the new brake line before it seals the hardline against the flexible line's adapter. Use your grinding tool and remove this flare. Do not damage the END of the nut, just take a little metal off the outside below the threads. It will now mate properly to the new line.

5. Put the hardline back in place, put the axle end of the new brake line in place, then put the top through the frame hanger and attach to the hardline. Take the cambered silver metal tab and put a bit more camber in it with the pliers and th wrench, or however you want to do it. Slide back in place, and turn 90 degrees clockwise so the open end is facing down. It will still be a little loose (it's on my "to do" list), but it won't fall out this way.

6. BLEED REAR LINES AND CHECK SYSTEM INTEGRITY.

-Sean