2005 Tacoma In-Cab power Outlet - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

sbessel · #1 (**permalink**) 03-22-2005, 10:00 PM

2005 Tacoma In-Cab power Outlet

This is an inexpensive fix that will place another 110v outlet inside your cab.

This was tested only on my '05 Tacoma X-Runner, but should work perfectly on all other '05 Tacoma's, as long as you have the factory inverter. There will be differences in the automatic access cab for removing the center console. I have yet to see the inside of a double cab so I am not sure how that one would work, or where the socket would mount.

If you find any errors, omissions or problems with this, or even if you just have questions and need help please feel free to PM me, and I will get back to you ASAP.

This only took about 3 hours start to finish.

Please read the entire instructions before starting. There are several decisions to be made on types of parts, connectors and such. These are decisions best made after you have read all the instructions and decided on your comfort/experience level.

*** This project can be done by soldering all connections (preferred), or if you must, by using all crimp connections (not preferred) I will mark all items needed for solderless in ORANGE. The solder route will be marked in GREEN, all other items are needed for both.

(due to a limitation of the board I was not able to attach all images, so some are just links)

Tools/supplies needed:

Sharp knife, small saw, to cut a square hole in your plastic console.
Philips screwdriver , to remove the center console
10mm socket, to remove the center console
drill and 1/4" bit, this is used to mount the indicator light, this is optional.
Glue/Epoxy, you will need this to hold the socket in place in the back console panel. Anything that holds plastic to plastic would be fine.
wire, ~4 feet of 3 different colors, I used 12 gauge, but you can go as low as 20 gauge.
Connectors, these are optional but without them the back of your console will be permanently wired into your truck. For these I used Radio Shack 274-224 and 274-234. ~$3.00 each.
Indicator light, this is also optional, this will illuminate only when the outlet is powered. I used Radio Shack 272-712, this was a pack of 2. ~$2.00
110v socket, I was unable to find anything suitable locally. I went to www.DigiKey.com and ordered Q227-ND This is a solder only version panel mount 110v socket. If you are not going to solder use Q228-ND as this is a crimp/connector socket. Either of these connectors were only $0.59 but ordering 2 with tax and shipping to my door was only ~$11.00 I suggest getting a spare, just in case.
soldering iron, optional depending on which type of connections you are going to use. I highly recommend soldering as it is much more reliable, easy and less prone to connection issues and fires.
flux core solder, again for the solder route.
Crimp tool, this is the standard $7.00 and example would be from Radio Shack p/n 69-2984. You will need this for the Radio Shack 4 pin connector, or if you are not soldering your connections and are using the Q228-ND crimp based socket.
Electrical tape, you will need this to button up the harness as you will have to cut it open to gain access to the inverter wires.
Spade lug connectors (5) you will need to correct size for the wire you are using, and the correct size for the Q228-ND connector if you plan on going the solderless route.
Ground lug connector (1) you will need this in the appropriate size for your wire, and for a 10mm bolt, the size of this item is not critical.
Wire taps (2) these are the standard blue wire taps that will allow you to tap into an existing wire with another wire. This again is if you plan on going solderless.

Steps:

Disconnect your negative battery cable, if you are unable to do this I suggest you quit now as this project will be too much for you... This step is for your safety.
Remove the center cup holder, I was able to grab the cup holder and firmly pull upward, look at picture 3 for connection points.
Remove the 2 Philips screws under cup holder, these are seen in picture 3
Remove the false bottom in your console, I used my pocket knife to pick up an edge and lift out, see picture 4
remove the rear of your console, I was able to do this by getting my fingers under the bottom and pulling until it released. See the mounting tabs in picture 7 & 8
remove the 2 10mm bolts inside the console
remove the console, this is done by first lifting up the front of the console then lift the rear and pull towards the back, there are interlocking tabs that connect the console to the front console. ** do not just yank the console out or it will break these tabs, trust me I know
You will now be able to clearly see the inverter and it's wiring harness. see Picture 5.
You now need to prepare the rear console. For the solder socket I cut out a 7/8" square hole. I placed mine 4" from the top and 1 1/2" from the side. These measurements need not be exact as I tired to place this in an area that has extra room behind it. See Picture 12. The socket is actually designed for a thin panel so I suggest you either use some epoxy/glue to keep the socket in place, or use your soldering iron to melt the tabs in place, but ** be careful ** you don't want to mess this part up.
I then drilled a hole above the socket hole for the indicator light. This was a 1.4" hole. If you want the indicator light you will need to connect these to the two slotted (non ground) leads on the socket. For the solder folks this is easy. If you choose the crimp approach you will need to wrap these with the connection wires before you crimp them into the spade connectors.
Connect your wires to the socket, make sure you know where each wire goes, Looking at the socket from the back the upper left lead is the power, the right is neutral and the bottom middle is ground. I soldered these to the socket, see pictures 6 & 7, I used red for power, and black for both neutral and ground (sorry all I had was red and black wire)
If you are using the Radio Shack 4 pin connectors connect/crimp these to the wires from the socket. I put my connector ~4" from the socket. I placed the red/power wire towards the diamond/marked side of the connector, I left a blank then connected the neutral and then ground. *** Make sure you use the male socket & pins for this part (274-224) this leaves better protection for the 110v wires.
Dress up the wires, socket and connectors with electrical tape. Not too tight as this needs to be flexible. Your real panel is finished.
You are now going to prepare the inverter harness. *** Make sure negative battery cable is off and there is NO POWER to the truck *** You are about to cut into 110vac wires and if power is on it will shock the crap outta your *** and I will not be responsible for the dent your head will place in the roof of your cab.
Remove the inverter connector shown in the bottom of Picture 5. You are going to need to expose the wires that come from this connector that go towards the passenger seat. Mine had a lot of tape and plastic covering this. I used my Swiss army knife scissors to cut this away. Be very careful not to damage the wire. This should expose a red and light green wire. The green wire is power, the red is neutral.
If soldering skip this step. If you are crimping just crimp your ~12" of red wire to the light green wire you exposed, and then crimp/connect ~12" of neutral wire to the red wire exposed above. Stagger your connections so it will be easier to dress these wires later. See Picture 10
If Crimping skip this step. Locate the red and light green wires you exposed, you will need to strip back ~1/4" from each of these wires, I used standard wire strippers. Be very careful as you do not want to cut these only strip back the insulation. Make sure you do not strip them at the same location, stagger your strips between the wires as it will make dressing these easier later. See Picture 10 Solder your red/power wire to the green wire, and solder your neutral (mine pictured is black) wire to the red wire.
Connect a ground lug to ~12" of wire. Mount this ground lug to the 10mm bolt shown in picture 10
You will now need to cut the three wires prepared above and connect to the Radio Shack connector (274-234) Make sure the red wire is towards the diamond/marked end, skip a connector, then mount the neutral/wire, then finally the last in the connector is the ground wire.
Dress up this short harness with electrical tape.
Dress up the factory harness, please make sure all the connections are wrapped with lots of tape and kept away from any of the sharp metal edges.
Reconnect the inverter.
Route the new harness toward the back on the passenger side.
Install your center console, feed in the front tabs first by lifting on the rear of the console and pushing forward. Then set down the console and make sure your new harness wire is not pinched under the console, there is a space for it to route towards the passenger seat. see pictures 11 & 12
Mount the console with the 10mm bolts and Philips screws, put the false bottom back, put your cup holders back, these should just snap back into place.
Connect your rear socket to the new harness and snap the rear of the console into place. This takes a little finesse but should just 'snap' into place.
Connect your negative battery cable.
Turn on your truck, look for smoke.... smoke is bad....
Test your new socket. If you installed the indicator light it should light when the socket is powered. I found mine had a short/small delay from when I activated the inverter to the time the socket had power.
I have also found that most testers show this socket as an open ground, this is how this inverter works, I find it strange, but this is how they work from the factory.

Picture 1: (Lamp and connectors from Radio Shack)

Picture 2: (sockets from digi-key, solder one is on left, crimp on right)

Picture 3: (Removal of cup holders, yellow tabs are connection points)

Picture 4: (False bottom in console and 2 10mm bolts)

Picture 5: (console removed inverter and harness exposed)

Picture 6: (back of console, cut lines layout)

Picture 7: (back of console, socket, light mounted and wired)

Picture 8: (back of console, socket, light mounted and wired, view 2)

Picture 9: (wires from inverter exposed)

Picture 10: (ground, and socket wires connected)

Picture 11: (wires dressed and routed)

Picture 12: (console back on wire/connector routing shown)

Picture 13: (Picture of final result)

Disclaimer:
Neither I, Tundrasolutions.com, mother nature, Toyota, or anyone else will be responsible if you completely blow up your truck. You are messing with the electrical system of your truck, you are cutting interior parts and you are messing with 110 volts AC. Any and all of these can be a dangerous combination if you do not know what you are doing. If you do not feel completely comfortable doing this, please step away from the truck and try something else. There could be expensive and deadly side effects if you do this incorrectly. I am pretty sure this will void your warranty so if you melt something don't expect the dealer to fix it..