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Off-RoadingDiscussions specifically related to modifying and driving your Toyota truck/SUV off the pavement, including trip reports.
This is a discussion thread titled "Need Offroad Tips for Mud", within the Off-Roading forum, part of the General Forums category.
When going through heavy thick slick mud what are some good ideas.
I have some BFG A/T KO's and the lugs will get clogged up pretty quick b/c they are not mud terrains.
Im thinking the best way to get through is with half throttle with the wheels paddeling spinning. I would think giving too much gas would just get me stuck.
Ive taken my truck off roading quite a few times but i havent taken it through a muddy field or anything of the sort yet.
I know momentum is key.
If i am going into a lot of mud at approx 10-15 mph is it a good idea to get on the gas.
When getting stuck in stuck what are some good options to get out? I dont go off road in any place ill get stuck without another 4x4.
Share experiences, pics whatever.
__________________ TUNDRA786
2007 Tundra Crew Max 4.7 TRD 4x4
285/65/18's with BF Goodrich All Terrain KO's
BedRug, Undercover, Bed Extender, Husky Liners
if you get stuck....put it in reverse and try to rock back alittle, then stick it in drive and try to plow forward again!
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 87 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
As far as I know, you already have the basic ideas down.
I got stuck once, and it was solely because I backed out of the gas while I was in the hole that I was trying to get through. To this day I don't know why I did that, but I simply sunk because it was a sandy bottom below the water.
I needed to be towed out, but turning the wheel back and forth, slowly, and trying reverse should help.
Don't go into deep mud to fast, you may break something. Just go in at a decent pace and keep in the gas. You don't have to floor it, but don't pu$$y-foot it either!
I have/soon to be had, BFG A/T KO's to and they are good tires, but they are weak in the mud. They do clog up to fast so keep them spinning to expel the dirt.
If you are worried about the mud hole you are going through or already in, just don't stop unless it stops you!
__________________ David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/AAL~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
Nice! lol was looking for something more a long the lines of things that can be used to get good traction.
Is wood safe to use? or too dangerous? like using a couple 2x6's (3ft each or so)
Bring a shovel. You never know. And I guess some wood wouldn't hurt. Maybe with groves though for traction, otherwise the tire would just spin on the wood that's probably covered in mud.
Do a search for traction ladders. They aren't cheap but apparently they are life saving!
__________________ David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/AAL~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
You've got the right idea as for how to deal with mud. Keep it going at a moderate speed with the wheels under power. By all means, don't hit your brakes, keep moving until you're through it. Stopping or slowing the truck when you have no traction is baaaad. You won't have any ability to get moving forward again in many types of mud. Also don't get hury jerky with the steering wheel...you'll fish tail and wind up stuck and sideways...this can be very fun in dry lake beds where mud is shallow, but deep mud...especially clay mud, will get ugly fast.
If you get stuck, you better not be alone. a buddy to help pull you is best, a winch to tie off on a tree is good too. Without either of those, you'd better have a shovel, maybe some scrap wood or branches, clothing, towels, those traction grate/pads, sand, prayer....anything to get under the tires and aid in traction. Use the shovel to dig out the holes that spinning tires have dug out...dig out the front wall of the hole, dig out a couple yards in front of the holes, creating a ramp or channel that'll be easy for your wheels to move through. If you can compact the mud, do it (sandy mud) Give your tires as little resistance and as few obstacles to contend with as possible. This may also be a good time to air down your tires a little if you haven't already.
If all else fails...know someone with a big tractor.
__________________ "We have gone from the melting pot to the chamber pot."-Greenie
Nice! lol was looking for something more a long the lines of things that can be used to get good traction.
Is wood safe to use? or too dangerous? like using a couple 2x6's (3ft each or so)
Yeah, wood is safe, but to Hugemoose's point, it can be slippery. you can have a bunch of shorter lengths and lay them crossways under the tires...also, you can find chunks of branches, logs, oter items with bark to lay under the wheels...crossways or otherwise.
__________________ "We have gone from the melting pot to the chamber pot."-Greenie
Keep your momentum when going through. When you start to slow down, move your steering wheel from side to side. If you have a tow hitch in the back, keep one end of your tow strap in the tow hitch with the pin. To help keep in place, close the gate with the tow strap on the side of the tail gate. If you get stuck, you don't want to have to dig or submerge yourself in water to attach the strap. Airing down a bit helps get a wider footprint.
Other advise, don't go through it unless you have to. LOL!!! It's hard to resist but, after replacing wire harnesses, relays, altenators, batteries and seals several times from mudding. I finally realized, mud is evil.
If it's sloppy clay mud, shovel it elsewhere if it's not too deep.
Lock the axles if you're equipped. Spin if you can, to clear the tread, if the open diffs can take it. Enter straight, exit on the same line, don't try to turn in the middle unless you have to.
If you see a lot of mud, get a mud tire.
...and yes, go at a medium pace and know when to back off and turn around before you get in the hole. I've turned around on easy trails because they became class five pucker factor after a light rain.
Mud just sucks. Utah mud is horrible after barely an inch of rain, not because it's deep, just that it's everywhere and it's the greasiest clay mud around, no traction at all...no hill climbing, no sidehill hold, no nothing, and it's like a half inch thick. Coming up the Horsethief switchbacks with just a little mud in the turns was hair raising on A/Ts, and we skipped Chicken Corner because of a muddy sidehill on the edge of a looooong drop.
Hey man!! What you doing with that shampoo bottle!?!?!
What, was this your shampoo bottle ? Or did you just want to borrow it?
...Glad one person got it anyway
Heavier is only better if you have tires to reach the bottom of the muck. BTW if you CAN reach the bottom, go tall and skinny with big lugs...35x10.5, that sort of skinny. Check out Interco's SSR and Bogger, they offer pizza cutter sizes for exactly that reason. Buy tires like you chase women, tall and skinny not short and wide.
i would just keep a steady speed, and just think smart when doing it. if crossing mud that you arent too sure that you will make it through, have someone else in another truck with you, because it SUCKS to be stranded and not be able to get out. i pretty much live in mud here in florida, but the 3 most important things to have with you in my opinion is a heavy duty tow strap, another 4x4 truck, and your brain. if your not sure of the depth, get out and check it with a stick or something along those lines.
Heavier is only better if you have tires to reach the bottom of the muck. BTW if you CAN reach the bottom, go tall and skinny with big lugs...35x10.5, that sort of skinny. Check out Interco's SSR and Bogger, they offer pizza cutter sizes for exactly that reason. Buy tires like you chase women, tall and skinny not short and wide.
Like he said, a narrow tire will reach the bottom better. Not only that, there will be more contact pressure per square inch of tire contact patch, which means more traction.
However, if it's like Florida mud, which normally has no bottom within reach, a wide tire is what you need.
I've found that as a general rule of thumb, wider is better. Wider will work better in a greater variety of circumstances in mud, and in pretty much any other off road scenario.
Sometimes you need wheel spin to maintain momentum and keep the tread clean, and sometimes you need just enough power to turn the tires. Older Fords with a C6 automatic worked good because you could manually start out in second gear, which helped limit wheelspin. You can also start out in second with a manual too, if you can do so without smoking the clutch or stalling. I managed to get unstuck that way a few times.
By the way, heavier is almost aways a liability off road. Lighter is better. About the only way that being heavier will help is when you are pulling someone out who is stuck.
__________________
'06 Tacoma TRD Doublecab 4wd
Rear locker mod, 3" Skyjacker lift struts, Skyjacker rear springs and shocks, more to come...
Need Offroad Tips for Mud
TUNDRA786
David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/AAL~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
and know when to back off and turn around before you get in the hole. I've turned around on easy trails because they became class five pucker factor after a light rain.
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