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Off-RoadingDiscussions specifically related to modifying and driving your Toyota truck/SUV off the pavement, including trip reports.
This is a discussion thread titled "8000 smitty built winch enough?", within the Off-Roading forum, part of the General Forums category.
If you run in the mud or have the potential it is not strong enough. But if you run a snatch block and double the pull it would be. Problems develop there because it really moves along slowly and you don't have a lot of cable left.
I would suggest the strongest you can get mounted on your truck. 15000 would be good.
If you have never been buried bellyup in mud it is quite a experience. The suction is just incredable and it usually wins and holds you in there until you find a giant anchor to tie onto.
If you want to be guaranteed to get out you need at least 12k on a full size truck. You get what you pay for with winches. Smittybuilts are rebadged imports along with Gorilla and a handful of other brands popping up on ebay, which is why they are cheap. It might work fine, but if you're in a situation where it absolutely has to work then I wouldn't want to rely on it. Warn is the gold standard, for good reason. Ramsey winches are standard issue on a lot of tow trucks, again for good reason.
If you're buying it as a convenience or if you always wheel with other trucks then give it a shot. If you see yourself ever being far from home with no nearby help, spend the coin on a proven winch.
When using a winch dont you put in gear and spin the tires as you use the winch?
I wanted something cheap and effective i could use whenever i rarely had to use it. I was going to just get a hitch mounted winch. By the responses it looks like im better off waiting. My Tundra has never been stuck but ive gotten a little close a few times. And the two guys i go wheeling with both have 2wd V6 vehicles that most likely wouldnt be able to pull me out.
Traction Ladders are expensive as well but someone told me you can get them pretty cheap. Its just a metal with holes in it for traction. Any ideas on traction Ladders? that might be a smarter move for me.
__________________ TUNDRA786
2007 Tundra Crew Max 4.7 TRD 4x4
285/65/18's with BF Goodrich All Terrain KO's
BedRug, Undercover, Bed Extender, Husky Liners
Think of a turtle stuck on a rock swinging its paws all around the same thing happens in mud. The tires are pretty much along for the ride the flat surface area of the under carriage sit right down on the mud.
Traction ladders are pretty common on expedition vehicles, but most people don't carry them due to the amount of space they take up. Do a search for perforated steel planking and you'll find some military surplus sites. The military uses interlocking steel planks to build temporary roads and runways on soft ground. The planks make very good traction ladders and can be found pretty cheap. The downside is they're heavy and bulky, so if you use your truck bed a lot they'll probably get in the way.
The traction bars that rambrush mentioned are use to control axle wrap on lifted solid-axle vehicles, primarily to prevent broken pinions. They don't really affect getting stuck or recovery.
Years ago when I bought my Warn I ran across some figures that you should aim for about 1.5X the GVWR of the vehicle you want to mount the winch to. I ended up with a Warn 9K winch for my T100 and swapped it to the Tundra. You should also get the snatch blocks, straps etc to make it work. I agree with the principle that you get what you pay for, Warn and Ramsey are well known and used by tow companies and fire departments. I am not familiar the technique of putting it in gear and spinning the wheels along with the winch to recover a vehicle, you may want to double check that. Hope this info. helps in making your decision.
I've seen the 1.5x GVWR suggested by manufacturers/magazines before, but I think it might be a bit light in some conditions. If a winch is rated at 9000lb, that's the max pull with the line fully spooled out. If you only spool out 50' the max pull is significantly less due to less mechanical advantage.
Most jeeps and smaller SUVs run 8-9,000 lb winches. The Warn 8274 (8,000lb) was a factory opton on FJ40s, even though the GWVR was only in the 4,000lb range.
I've got a 48" hi lift on my FJ40. It's one of the best tools you can buy. Carry a 12"x12" square of 3/4 plywood to use as a base in soft surfaces. Put some grip tape on it so the jack won't slip. Practice with it before you try to use it in the woods. Plenty of people have been seriously hurt because they were unfamiliar with this type of jack.
Using it as a winch works well. It's somewhat tedious, but it sure beats shoveling or walking. Be sure and carry enough straps and shackles to reach a solid anchor point. Depending on where you live, this is probably at least 50', much more in open areas.
With a hi lift jack i would probably have trouble jacking it up from the side wouldnt I?
Im saying this b/c i have step boards. Ive seen a bunch of different mounts though where you can get it to grab the wheel.
I read somewhere a good thing to use for the rear end is the jack reciever area.
How do you jack up the front?
__________________ TUNDRA786
2007 Tundra Crew Max 4.7 TRD 4x4
285/65/18's with BF Goodrich All Terrain KO's
BedRug, Undercover, Bed Extender, Husky Liners
There's not a good way to do it on late model vehicles. Older vehicles had nice strong flat bumpers that were designed to support the weight of the truck. Newer vehicles have wrap around bumpers with no good attachement points.
Regardless of where you choose to position the jack, you need to use something that's anchored solidly to the frame. your average step bars won't cut it.
8000 smitty built winch enough?
TUNDRA786
Linear Mode
