tundra knuckles

[Jwitz]

Does anyone know if there is any major difference between 2000 tundra 4x4 front knuckles and later model front knuckles? There are some knuckles on ebay, and I think it would be easier to do the manual front hub conversion / welding in off road brace on an extra set of knuckles instead of pulling off the original ones.

[DevinSixtySeven]

Yup...I think it was 04-06 have a larger lower ball joint, so the knuckle and spindle aren't compatible with 00-03.

FWIW you're not likely to break the knuckle. More likely it'll be the inner tie rod will bend or snap.

-Sean

[editmars]

You have to pull them off sometime anyway to put in the new ones

[Jwitz]

well the point was with the tundra being my DD, that I could work on the one set, get them all ready and fixed up, and then the tundra will be out of commision for a lot less time. And I expect that the inner tie rod will break befor the knuckle will, but I already got the reinforcement plate a while back, so might as well put them on (+ cool factor).

[DevinSixtySeven]

You referring to the spindle (aka "upright") or the knuckle, aka "lower ball joint" in the manual? The latter has the LBJ pressed in, it's a one piece assembly, it's also the steering knuckle. The spindle just bolts to it, no steering parts on the spindle/upright.

If you're talking about a spindle gusset, don't worry about it.

[jamesjr4750]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

If you're talking about a spindle gusset, don't worry about it.

And that's why you put some on your old setup...RIGHT.
You're saying you weren't concerned.

[editmars]

Originally Posted by jamesjr4750

And that's why you put some on your old setup...RIGHT.
You're saying you weren't concerned.

The gussets dont help the part that breaks

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by jamesjr4750

And that's why you put some on your old setup...RIGHT.
You're saying you weren't concerned.

I installed them before I knew better. If spindles were easy to come by and easy to dress I'd get another pair and ditch the gusseted pair...but they're probably not hurting anything either, so no big deal.

If you want a longer explanation for why the gussets were marketed in the first place, look around on TTORA in the desert section and read my reply in this thread. They are marketed as protecting the spindle on droop, on our trucks it's also a compression issue. If you're not running the arms that precipitated those gussets, you've nothing to worry about.

-Sean

[Jwitz]

I do have the TC upper uni-balls, but i've never noticed a compression issue.... well I have noticed that my uni-ball bolt punches through my fenderwell at full compression, but that actually makes me happy to have that much travel.

So I can see what you are saying about the gussets, but what problems did they cause you?

On a different note, how many people have put in the manual hub conversion? I have some 87 or 89 asin front hubs that I believe should work as my locking hubs, any issues?

[DevinSixtySeven]

If you're lucky you won't ever notice a compression issue. If you run low profile bump stops, you might. I never did, but then I don't jump my truck either.

The bolt hits the fender liner because the liner is flexing down, not because the arm is coming up. When everything is static, there's about 3/4" between the top of the bolt and the inner liner.

The Toyota spindle is a forged piece. There's really nothing wrong with adding the gusset, but there's no need either if your suspension is properly strapped and bumped. The real problem is, the part that breaks is the tiny ring at the top of the spindle, which the gusset does not support.

The Camburg joint allows more angle, so the problem doesn't exist with their arms...if it were allowed to droop free, the inner TRE will bind before the spindle is loaded. I'd rather replace an inner TRE in the field than have the wheel flop over and need a tow out, like some of the guys on TTORA...better yet, limit straps and long bump stops and it's all good...no need to add the gussets.

*edit* oh yeah...you asked about problems. No problems that couldn't be overcome, but you'll need to sort out mounting the brake and ABS lines slightly offset to clear the gusset, and good luck if you ever need to remove the adapter slug. The gusset interferes with anything you're pressing in or out of the top of the spindle. Moving the line mount was annoying, dealing with the clearance during the presswork was borderline intolerable. If you have bare spindles and you really, really want to add the gussets, press in whatever you need to the top before they're welded on or you'll have no end of trouble getting the presswork lined up.

[Jwitz]

The gusset interferes with anything you're pressing in or out of the top of the spindle.

Thank you, I wouldn't have thought of that before hand! In my mind, I was going to prep the knuckle, welding the brace and everything, getting the hub conversion in, and then bolt the suspension up... That's where everything would have gone bad... appreciate the foresight!

[DevinSixtySeven]

For about 150$ (possibly less), you can get the Camburg misalignment setup (upper and lower spacers, and Bowmalloy fastener) and it will drop right in to the Chaos arm...the joints are the same. You'll need to press out the Chaos slug adapter, it's not hard unless you have that !@#$ing gusset sitting there.

The Camburg spacers and 5/8" bolt allow more misalignment than the off-the-shelf spacers and 3/4" bolt Chaos uses. Don't worry about the bolt thickness, the Chaos bolt is F911 and the Camburg bolt is Bowmalloy...both bolts are far beyond stupid strong and are used to provide massive clamping force for the spacers anyway. Turn those things down as tight as you can get them...they'll take well over 200 ft-lb torque if you can crank 'em that hard.

-Sean