Manual hubs install experiences

[editmars]

For those of you who have converted to manual hubs...how can I cut the cost on labor without effing my bearings up. I am completely comfortable tearing into the suspension and pulling the knuckles off and removing the seals.

The thing I don't want to get hosed on is the press work. How long and how much should it cost if I bring bare knuckles in? What did you pay? The one local/reliable shop knows their value in being the only place to do the work, and quoted me $500. That was before I told them I would bring in the knuckles.

Once they are pressed in, is everything else pretty much bolt together?

[rambrush]

Yes the tricky part is the press work, things have gone boom during the press operation.

[jjc]

When I installed my manual hub conversion I did my own press work and trashed at least one of the bearings if I remember correctly. I have a 20-ton press and it took a crazy amount of pressure to press off the bearings, and they did go flying across the room when they gave ....

Yeah, after the press work it's a pretty straight forward install. I can't imagine a local shop charging very much to do the press work, suppose it depends on where you are and how many shops are in the area......

[rlehan]

I pressed my own bearings and it was somewhat difficult. Check with you local dealer. $500 is way too much. I would think $100 - $150 to do both sides is a fair price. There is no guarantee that there will not be any damage though. I know that sometimes the knuckle is broken trying to press out the bearings even if everything is done correctly. They are really pressed in tight. You will also have a tough time torquing the new axle lock nut. It requires a special socket and over 200 ft/lbs of torque. It was a challenge with 2 other people helping me. Good luck with your conversion.

Rick

[editmars]

Originally Posted by rlehan

You will also have a tough time torquing the new axle lock nut. It requires a special socket and over 200 ft/lbs of torque. It was a challenge with 2 other people helping me. Good luck with your conversion.

Rick

The first time I pulled the knuckles, I had a lot of trouble with that. One I got the trick figured out it wasn't too bad. When I broke a knuckle, I had to go through Toyota to get the new one so while I was waiting I was shooting the breeze with some mechanics and asked how much to torque it down. They're answer "Oh just as tight as you can with a breaker bar"

[Imdone]

I went from OEM/Auto lock hubs to RCD/Auto lock hubs and then to RCD/Manual hubs.

In that process I trashed 5 bearings and 1 RCD steering knuckle.

Stuff breaks and as long as you plan on it, it's no biggie.

Try to make friends with a local shop and they will bring that price down.

[rlehan]

Originally Posted by editmars

The first time I pulled the knuckles, I had a lot of trouble with that. One I got the trick figured out it wasn't too bad. When I broke a knuckle, I had to go through Toyota to get the new one so while I was waiting I was shooting the breeze with some mechanics and asked how much to torque it down. They're answer "Oh just as tight as you can with a breaker bar"

If you have not installed manual hubs then you have not run into this problem. With the manual hubs you have a new axle nut that is round with 4 holes in it. The axle nut socket has 4 pins that go into the holes in the nut to tighten it. It is very difficult to get the 200+ ft/lbs of torque on that nut. I couldn't do it with a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench that goes to 250 fl/lbs. I had to use a 4 foot long 3/4 inch drive torque wrench to get better leverage. The original axle nut is an ordinary type hex nut and is very easy to tighten.

Look at this link to see what is involved in doing the manual hub conversion. This is for a Tacoma, but the Tundra conversion is the same.


Rick

[editmars]

Wow...lol. Thanks for the link

[ctw41]

I installed the ORS ket. I bought some used knuckles from a junkyard for $75 and had the dealer press in the new stuff for $300. The dealer I used had a lot of experience because of a brake recall a few years earlier that caused them to change the backing plate. If you go this route make sure the backing plate on the used knuckles matches yours. I borrowed a friends lift and completed the job in about 3 hours with help from my younger brother. Getting the boot clamps they provided tight was a littler challenge. Buy the aftermarket inner CV joint boots and install them. You re-use the inner CV joint so make sure you inspect it well.

[RoundOut]

I have the ORS kit. One word of advice... BUY two of their "tools" for the axle nut.

I had a shop do the conversion for me and they totally FUBAR'd the install, which I didn't discover until I had bearing failure on the front right "under warranty". The dealer fixed everything for free, but made me buy the parts that ORS includes, such as the new hub and replacement bearing. Then it happened again on the other side. I didn't know why I had problems until I had a local guy do some press work on the new bearing. He showed me where the installing shop had used a chisel to tighten the axle lock nut instead of the proper axle nut special service tool.

The installing shop had LIED to me that they bought the proper tool, used a chisel, and I had both bearings prematurely fail as a result.

To answer your question, I paid a guy $75 bucks to press out the old and press in the new. He ended up breaking the tool's four pins right at 250 lbs on the torque wrench. We ended up trading my tool for the press work. Unfortunately, I could have bought the tool from ORS for $50 at the time, but it cost me $70 locally, and I had to wait a week to get it.

The pins on the tool are weak, but replaceable.

On the second failure, which was the one that revealed the first shop's shortcut, I did all the work myself except for the press work. The press guy even packed it and put the seals in afterwards.

You are right, that the rest of it is easy. Just make sure you get the outer snap ring clamp seated in the outer end of the axle. It may require you pulling the axle outward from behind the knuckle while seating it. Unless you pull it out, it is easy to feel seated when it is not actually seated.

I hope this helps.

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[editmars]

Anyone have pictures of this lock nut? I just looked through my kit, and I dont see what your talking about, though I think I know what it is *just not on mine*

[rlehan]

This is a good picture of the nut. It's the round nut with the 4 holes in it.





Rick

[RoundOut]

Originally Posted by editmars

Anyone have pictures of this lock nut? I just looked through my kit, and I dont see what your talking about, though I think I know what it is *just not on mine*

I can describe it, but I could not find a photo. The nut is actually a flat donut shaped ring with four holes where the special service tool is placed to apply the required torque. I cannot remember if the threads are on the inside or outside, but I think they are on the inside.

I have attached a pdf of the 2000 tacoma axle hub assembly. Look at the lower left of the first page for a part that is identified as

w/ Free Wheel Hub:
Lock Nut
[274 (2,800, 203)]

I don't recall the nut being as thick as it appears in that picture. IIRC, it was only about 3/8" thick.


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