Quote:
Originally Posted by jjc
I would get some opinions from other IFS guys - like DevenSixtySeven, since he went from 33" to 35" tires and still has his axle(s) in the factory location.
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Give it a few years and I'll be down to one axle
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To fit 35x12.5 tires w/o lift, you need to cut 2" back from the base of the pinch weld and re-tub the hole. It's a lot of work, but IMHO less invasive than cutting crossmembers or spacing the cab away from the frame. Not that those approaches don't work...that's why it's just an opinion. The tires will still kiss the frame just a little at full lock...didn't notice that myself until the truck was on the tires without the shocks mounted.
You won't need to cut as much if you run something like a 34x10.5 LTB.
In rough order from basic to contender, here's my suggestions...
Spacer style kits (using factory springs):
-Toytec spacer kit
-Bilstein 5100 snap ring kit
Coilover kits:
Toytec kit
Any SAW/King/Fox 2.0"
Any of those in 2.5"
Camburg-spec SAW, or IVD, coilover with uniball upper arms
Camburg-spec SAW and long travel kit
The best way to run large tires on IFS is long travel and fiberglass. That's a big commitment and assumes you'll have the truck for years if not "forever", and that you enjoy the style of wheeling that's possible with an IFS kit, because that sentence costs as much as these guys' solid axle conversions. It's good for probably 95% of the terrain, and the other 5% is what Jon, Mike, Tedd and Joe run. Most of the stuff worth seeing is in that 95%.
You cannot properly fit a 37" tire without a great deal of trimming, including removal of the stock core support, and long travel control arms.
I don't know how much lift I have. I stopped thinking about lift a year or two ago and started worrying about how much compression vs droop travel the truck has. Right now it's about 6.5" compression and 5-6" droop, and the spindle can come up farther than it did stock, so I dunno where it sits. The roof is maybe 6'8" or 6'9", it still fits in the garage even with 37" tires mounted. With those same 37" tires, it's taller than trucks with 2.5" coilover lifts and 33s, just barely, and shorter than spacer+body lift kits on 35s. So yeah I guess that's probably 2-3" over stock. Once you start cutting, lift doesn't matter as long as the tire fits and you have enough compression and droop to do what you plan to do with the truck.
So my suggestion is get your hands on a small MIG welder and some C25 gas and practice on sheetmetal. When you're ready, get out the sawzall and the angle grinder and tub everything back, long before you choose parts. Then when you're ready, choose a new suspension setup--I highly, highly recommend Camburg--and fit it up, cycle it, take some measurements,
then pick a tire and wheel that fit what you've done. Set the ride height with no less than 4" of droop...I'd recommend more like 5-6" droop, with stock arms...and you'll have a truck with a bit of height over stock, larger tires, and great performance.
Hope that helps, post up any questions and I'll try to answer.
-Sean
Biggest tire size for a 3'' lift?
'05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip 
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