k, so i finally got my lift and tires put on. a 3" suspension Skyjacker lift kit, Black Steel Craiger racing wheels, 1/4'' wheel spacers in the front to clear the calipers, and 285/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T tries.
and hopefully soon to come some sliders so i can use my high lift and also so i wont scrape my body up.
Now the question is, what offroad mod/any mod(besides the sliders)
should i do next?
and why?
-Quentin
__________________
Tundra with a little lift and 33's
Dude...check out iron bull bumpers. I would love a set...but on a 2wd, I cant justify the price. There is a dude on here 'DuneRunner' or something like that.
__________________ 2008 Silver Sky Toyota Tundra 4.7L V8 Double Cab -Spray In Bed Liner
-Truxedo Truxport Tonneau
-Llumar Window Tint
-TRD Sway Bar
You need to get a powertrax no-slip locker - Turns your truck from a good offroader to an amazing offroad vehicle. You can do it your self at home. Only catch you can't have the limited slip already... only goes in an open diff.
Looking good so far!
__________________
Black 2000 4X4 Access SR5. 2-1/2 DayStar front, 1.5 AAL Rear, Diff Drop, Limit Strap, Foglight, power-outlet and map light mods. Tailgate open LED, power tailgate lock, Disconected buzzer, Hellwig sway-bar and Powertrax No-Slip Locker.
Next cheap, but $ saving thing you can do is the diff breather mod for when you submerge your rear diff under water. Its that little plastic breather sticking out the top of your rear pumpkin on the driver side. Upper control arms would allow better travel in the front, so will a set of coilovers. Deaver rear leaf springs or longer leaf packs would allow more articulation in the rear, but then you run into shock lenght, break lines and all other stuff. Maybe a set of Total Chaos streering rack bushings to tighten up streering feel. I agree with Batman about the locker, it helps alot. There are so many things that you can do to increase the Tundra's offroad potential which it has alot of already. I'm sure I'm leaving alot of things out and others will be alot more help.
x2 rear diff breather extension. It'll cost maybe 10$ in parts. Not much water out there but when it's there, it's a lot.
You're in a very good place right now. The one thing that will benefit you most from here out is driving experience. You're also IMHO in the best part of the country for it, also easily the most remote, riskiest, most interesting, and most fun, so (again IMHO) the stuff that you'll find most useful right now isn't more truck mods (except armor), it's all the accessory stuff that makes your day a little smoother when something goes tits up in the middle of nowhere.
When you have the cash flow, roughly in order:
1. Skid Row skid plates, all three. If you don't break the engine, tranny or tcase on a rock, you're more likely not to need everything below.
2. CB radio. Get a nice head unit, like the "all in hand" Cobra setups, and be sure to tune your antenna! Very clear signal from that setup. Get your HAM license (10$ and some study time) too, don't sweat the radio, just get the license...HAM radio when you can afford it. Pick up a GMRS license as well so you can avoid using those crappy FRS radios. You need the range and clarity of these radios in the middle of nowhere, if you or a buddy breaks something or if you're completely screwed and need help.
3. Sand/bridging ladders, in fiberglass. Don't get the steel or aluminum setups, not necessary, heavy, not multipurpose. A lot of situations you can self-recover without needing a winch, if you have these. We've used mine in sand, snow, rocks, we've used them to overcome lack of suspension travel and lack of lockers, approach angle, and they're great to set stuff on in camp if it needs to be off the ground.
4. Heavy duty snatch strap and shackles. The Warn shackles are expensive but have the best profile. Don't get anything made in China, Durkistan, etc. Two shackles and a snatch strap plus bridging ladders means one vehicle can recover a completely screwed vehicle, hopefully without needing a winch.
5. HiLift accessories. LiftMate, sand base, WabFab slider adapter, winch rigging. Learn how to use all of it, particularly the HiLift winch rigging. JIC sand ladders and snatch strap aren't enough, or if you need to support a vehicle from the side, or reposition a vehicle during recovery. LiftMate lets you place a ladder or rocks or whatever under a tire, fill in a hole, sand base keeps the foot of the jack from sinking.
6. Maps, compass, GPS unit. Learn to use all three. Know the difference between, and proper use of, UTM and LaLo coordinates. If you know exactly where you are, you can get out faster or tell somebody where you are on the radio. Also just handy for plotting routes and estimating time & fuel reqs.
7. NATO fuel cans x2 at least. NATO nozzle, not the cheap Chinese knockoffs. I can carry 6x5.5gal on the truck, room for two more. Much cheaper than Scepter cans, nozzles empty the entire jug in seconds. Durable and easy to tie down.
8. Scepter water jugs x1 or x2. H2O + fuel takes your range from hours to days. Usually about 15-20gal H2O on my truck on long trips, that's enough for two people for a week without hitting town, active in 105* heat. Scepter is more expensive but the jugs are very sturdy, easy to tie down, and most important very clean.
7. 15# or 20# CO2 tank. Get a trigger-style inflator that doesn't require the valve core to be in the valve stem in order to work (easier to rebead a tire). Or, rather than CO2, get a good quality 12V compressor and a 2g or 4g air tank. Airing down is the #1 thing you can do to improve your truck's capability offroad, this lets you air back up for the highway. If you don't already have a pressure gauge now is the time LOL.
8. Deflators. Get the Extreme Outback mil-spec set. Skip the rest, they are generally either slow, crap, or finicky. Get some of their "no loss" valve caps while you're at it...you'll thank yourself later LOL. Get deflators because using a rock gets old.
In no particular order:
You need a shovel. I highly, highly recommend the D-handle, fiberglass shovels with tempered blades from the fire supply outfits. You can get them online for about 20$-30$. Add a couple big crowbars while you're at it. Also a couple good, strong ratchet straps will come in handy if you lose a bead and need to reset. Pick up some Quick Fist clamps to mount everything. Tarp or canvas ground cover if you gotta get under the truck or whatever. Figure out a way to carry at least one good jack stand, in case you need to work on the truck w/a wheel off. HiLift is not enough for that situation. Need a base (wood or metal) for the jack stand.
Learn to use the e-brake as a po'boy traction assist. It does work . Never, ever spin your tires...get used to lifting as soon as you feel/hear them spin. Spinning will break your differentials and the shock of a tire suddenly finding traction will break your axles.
Set up with a buddy or three to simulate needing all your trail repair & recovery gear somewhere close to home, before you actually need it...in particular using only what's on the truck to change a tire, digging out of sand, HiLift winching, strapping, etc...and get a tire plug kit while you're at it. They're very easy to use, and effective.
Get a factory service manual (or download it) if you don't already have one, and learn how to swap and R&R upper and lower ball joints, upper control arm, inner CV joint, spindle, outer CV joint and halfshaft, driveshafts, steering knuckle, tie rods end to end, alignment cams and bolts, and steering rack. That is all the stuff that's likely to wear or break.
Go driving. We'll hopefully be down that way in January or February if you wanna join us .
Learn how to MIG weld. Not flux core, not stick, MIG. It is easy, fast, produces very good quality welds, and has a shallow learning curve. Do it over winter or summer break, or have a buddy teach you. If you suck at it, you'll at least make some good contacts for custom work. If you're good at it, you're set for life as far as fabrication.
The next thing you need to do is decide if you're gonna keep the truck, or sell it in a couple years...like after high school, after college, after you get a job and decide you need a respectable looking car, whatever.
If you're gonna keep it, next thing is buy a nice 220v welder (or find a buddy with one), cut the rear quarterpanels, cut the front wheel wells, build a rear bumper.
By then you'll have a season or two on this equipment and you'll know if you want larger tires, refrigerator, rooftop tent, long travel, stiffer springs, longer leaf springs, different leaf spring bushings, better shocks, camp shower, solid front axle, or are sick of the entire thing and you're trading for an M3 or something.
Decide if you're wanting 35" tires or not, then invest in a pair of ARB lockers and 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Don't bother with any other locker setup. Yeah the others are cheaper, but you're better off in the long run learning to drive with open diffs while you save for a proper locker.
Don't bother with body lifts. Totally unnecessary on this truck. Don't get a drop bracket unless you know it's for the looks and you're fine with that. Same with rims over 16", unless you're running tires larger than 35". Don't get any other front bumper than stock until you can get a custom setup that doesn't weigh a friggin ton, doesn't look like it was stolen from earth moving equipment or a semi, doesn't look like a strap-on or a massive overbite, etc...and don't get a rear bumper until you have cut the rear quarter panels and understand enough to design & possibly build one yourself. Otherwise I guarantee you are wasting your money either on road-going, mall crawling, poser market crap...or you're buying ranch/job site hardware more suitable for a Soviet tank than an offroad Tundra. The ARB is none of those things but it was built for overland travel more so than rock crawling & it is a handicap on harder trails.
-Sean
PS BTW/FWIW the only thing on this list you ought to buy that's vehicle specific is the skid plates. The rest is just stuff you should always have with you, no matter what you're driving.
Get a factory service manual (or download it) if you don't already have one, and learn how to swap and R&R upper and lower ball joints, upper control arm, inner CV joint, spindle, outer CV joint and halfshaft, driveshafts, steering knuckle, tie rods end to end, alignment cams and bolts, and steering rack. That is all the stuff that's likely to wear or break.
Go driving. We'll hopefully be down that way in January or February if you wanna join us .
.
yup broke my left ball joint the day i lifted it, got it fixed at big o 260 bucks for a new ball joint, front left strut had to be put together again, and labor.
dam did it suck.
so come today when i went out by a dirt road on the edge of town by my house i go through a mud hole and what do u know.... i broke my right ball joint.... f&%k!!!! so now tommorow i gotta get it repaired again.
luckly my friend is a mechanic so hes gonna help me out( i woulda had him fix it before its just the fact where he was out of town yesterday today and most of tommorow) so it hopefully wont cost me 260 again.
well atleast now i know now that my ball joints are gonna be new ones and they wont go bad for a long time now( ha hopefully)
so ya i think the next thing im gonna do after i get that fixed and save a little bit of money is look into some better body armour, exe. sliders and new front and back bumpers.
oh and for sure now doubt i would be into going on some trail with yall when your over here.
__________________
Tundra with a little lift and 33's
Add to this list: Not the best, but way better then nothing (satelite phone, and its cheap for unlimited minutes) - I've used it for my round trip from FL to AK and back (95% of Yukon Territories had no satelite coverage) Voice Pricing: Airtime Pricing: Globalstar
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven
x2 rear diff breather extension. It'll cost maybe 10$ in parts. Not much water out there but when it's there, it's a lot.
You're in a very good place right now. The one thing that will benefit you most from here out is driving experience. You're also IMHO in the best part of the country for it, also easily the most remote, riskiest, most interesting, and most fun, so (again IMHO) the stuff that you'll find most useful right now isn't more truck mods (except armor), it's all the accessory stuff that makes your day a little smoother when something goes tits up in the middle of nowhere.
When you have the cash flow, roughly in order:
1. Skid Row skid plates, all three. If you don't break the engine, tranny or tcase on a rock, you're more likely not to need everything below.
2. CB radio. Get a nice head unit, like the "all in hand" Cobra setups, and be sure to tune your antenna! Very clear signal from that setup. Get your HAM license (10$ and some study time) too, don't sweat the radio, just get the license...HAM radio when you can afford it. Pick up a GMRS license as well so you can avoid using those crappy FRS radios. You need the range and clarity of these radios in the middle of nowhere, if you or a buddy breaks something or if you're completely screwed and need help.
3. Sand/bridging ladders, in fiberglass. Don't get the steel or aluminum setups, not necessary, heavy, not multipurpose. A lot of situations you can self-recover without needing a winch, if you have these. We've used mine in sand, snow, rocks, we've used them to overcome lack of suspension travel and lack of lockers, approach angle, and they're great to set stuff on in camp if it needs to be off the ground.
4. Heavy duty snatch strap and shackles. The Warn shackles are expensive but have the best profile. Don't get anything made in China, Durkistan, etc. Two shackles and a snatch strap plus bridging ladders means one vehicle can recover a completely screwed vehicle, hopefully without needing a winch.
5. HiLift accessories. LiftMate, sand base, WabFab slider adapter, winch rigging. Learn how to use all of it, particularly the HiLift winch rigging. JIC sand ladders and snatch strap aren't enough, or if you need to support a vehicle from the side, or reposition a vehicle during recovery. LiftMate lets you place a ladder or rocks or whatever under a tire, fill in a hole, sand base keeps the foot of the jack from sinking.
6. Maps, compass, GPS unit. Learn to use all three. Know the difference between, and proper use of, UTM and LaLo coordinates. If you know exactly where you are, you can get out faster or tell somebody where you are on the radio. Also just handy for plotting routes and estimating time & fuel reqs.
7. NATO fuel cans x2 at least. NATO nozzle, not the cheap Chinese knockoffs. I can carry 6x5.5gal on the truck, room for two more. Much cheaper than Scepter cans, nozzles empty the entire jug in seconds. Durable and easy to tie down.
8. Scepter water jugs x1 or x2. H2O + fuel takes your range from hours to days. Usually about 15-20gal H2O on my truck on long trips, that's enough for two people for a week without hitting town, active in 105* heat. Scepter is more expensive but the jugs are very sturdy, easy to tie down, and most important very clean.
7. 15# or 20# CO2 tank. Get a trigger-style inflator that doesn't require the valve core to be in the valve stem in order to work (easier to rebead a tire). Or, rather than CO2, get a good quality 12V compressor and a 2g or 4g air tank. Airing down is the #1 thing you can do to improve your truck's capability offroad, this lets you air back up for the highway. If you don't already have a pressure gauge now is the time LOL.
8. Deflators. Get the Extreme Outback mil-spec set. Skip the rest, they are generally either slow, crap, or finicky. Get some of their "no loss" valve caps while you're at it...you'll thank yourself later LOL. Get deflators because using a rock gets old.
In no particular order:
You need a shovel. I highly, highly recommend the D-handle, fiberglass shovels with tempered blades from the fire supply outfits. You can get them online for about 20$-30$. Add a couple big crowbars while you're at it. Also a couple good, strong ratchet straps will come in handy if you lose a bead and need to reset. Pick up some Quick Fist clamps to mount everything. Tarp or canvas ground cover if you gotta get under the truck or whatever. Figure out a way to carry at least one good jack stand, in case you need to work on the truck w/a wheel off. HiLift is not enough for that situation. Need a base (wood or metal) for the jack stand.
Learn to use the e-brake as a po'boy traction assist. It does work . Never, ever spin your tires...get used to lifting as soon as you feel/hear them spin. Spinning will break your differentials and the shock of a tire suddenly finding traction will break your axles.
Set up with a buddy or three to simulate needing all your trail repair & recovery gear somewhere close to home, before you actually need it...in particular using only what's on the truck to change a tire, digging out of sand, HiLift winching, strapping, etc...and get a tire plug kit while you're at it. They're very easy to use, and effective.
Get a factory service manual (or download it) if you don't already have one, and learn how to swap and R&R upper and lower ball joints, upper control arm, inner CV joint, spindle, outer CV joint and halfshaft, driveshafts, steering knuckle, tie rods end to end, alignment cams and bolts, and steering rack. That is all the stuff that's likely to wear or break.
Go driving. We'll hopefully be down that way in January or February if you wanna join us .
Learn how to MIG weld. Not flux core, not stick, MIG. It is easy, fast, produces very good quality welds, and has a shallow learning curve. Do it over winter or summer break, or have a buddy teach you. If you suck at it, you'll at least make some good contacts for custom work. If you're good at it, you're set for life as far as fabrication.
The next thing you need to do is decide if you're gonna keep the truck, or sell it in a couple years...like after high school, after college, after you get a job and decide you need a respectable looking car, whatever.
If you're gonna keep it, next thing is buy a nice 220v welder (or find a buddy with one), cut the rear quarterpanels, cut the front wheel wells, build a rear bumper.
By then you'll have a season or two on this equipment and you'll know if you want larger tires, refrigerator, rooftop tent, long travel, stiffer springs, longer leaf springs, different leaf spring bushings, better shocks, camp shower, solid front axle, or are sick of the entire thing and you're trading for an M3 or something.
Decide if you're wanting 35" tires or not, then invest in a pair of ARB lockers and 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Don't bother with any other locker setup. Yeah the others are cheaper, but you're better off in the long run learning to drive with open diffs while you save for a proper locker.
Don't bother with body lifts. Totally unnecessary on this truck. Don't get a drop bracket unless you know it's for the looks and you're fine with that. Same with rims over 16", unless you're running tires larger than 35". Don't get any other front bumper than stock until you can get a custom setup that doesn't weigh a friggin ton, doesn't look like it was stolen from earth moving equipment or a semi, doesn't look like a strap-on or a massive overbite, etc...and don't get a rear bumper until you have cut the rear quarter panels and understand enough to design & possibly build one yourself. Otherwise I guarantee you are wasting your money either on road-going, mall crawling, poser market crap...or you're buying ranch/job site hardware more suitable for a Soviet tank than an offroad Tundra. The ARB is none of those things but it was built for overland travel more so than rock crawling & it is a handicap on harder trails.
-Sean
PS BTW/FWIW the only thing on this list you ought to buy that's vehicle specific is the skid plates. The rest is just stuff you should always have with you, no matter what you're driving.
__________________
2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4x4 w/ lxr package, 7008 navi, rear entartaiment system, 20" x-sp enkei.
2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4 - TRD 9+Psi Supercharged, JBA Ceramic Headers, Walboro 255LPH Fuel Pump, 1UZ Rods, 20" x-sp enkei wheels, 7009 navi w/custom JBL wire harness + OEM XM/Sirus radio, drive by wire, and many other mods.
An ARB in the back would be a nice addition for sure.
Maybe some Budbuilt skids for protecting the underside.
A budbuilt anti-wrap bar to keep your drivetrain intact is always good too.
Good choice on tires by the way, the Toyo Mt's have been my favorite up until I gave the new KM2's a shot. I think the BFG's are a little more road friendly but the Toyo's have a kick-arse sidewall and are tough as nails ! Both are awesome tires on & off road.....don't think you could go wrong with either.
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
An ARB in the back would be a nice addition for sure.
Maybe some Budbuilt skids for protecting the underside.
A budbuilt anti-wrap bar to keep your drivetrain intact is always good too.
Good choice on tires by the way, the Toyo Mt's have been my favorite up until I gave the new KM2's a shot. I think the BFG's are a little more road friendly but the Toyo's have a kick-arse sidewall and are tough as nails ! Both are awesome tires on & off road.....don't think you could go wrong with either.
ya that was my choice between tires, the km2's or the toyo m/t's.
i picked the toyos over the bf's because of the fact were i was told ill get a better road ride and longer tread life over the km2's. also everything i had read about the bf's said they were really really good tires, but the bf's have only been out a yearish or so vs the toyo's that have been out for 5years and ive never heard bad of them. so i just got those. maybe my next set will be km2's
__________________
Tundra with a little lift and 33's
i have an lsd in the back, can i still put it on pretty easily?
No. Since you have an LSD your carrier is different. In order for you to install one of these powertrax lockers, you will have to get a carrier from and open differential Tundra. IMHO I would just keep the LSD for now.
what offroad help mod should i do now?
! Both are awesome tires on & off road.....don't think you could go wrong with either.
Linear Mode
