what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
k, so right now i am finally starting to mod my truck. ive been bit by the bug.
but right now idk what kind of offroading im gonna eventually get into. idk if im gonna wanna be into like desert racing baja type offroading or if im gonna get into trail riding in mud and rock crawling.
obviously i would like to do both.
Is there a way i can have a set up to get the best of offroading worlds?
or do i have to basically choose one or the other?
is there a type of set up where i can get both kinds of offroading mild lvls that makes is so i can get a feel for both types of offroading, so if i decide to get into one type of offroading i can go from there.
cuz i dont just wanna start dumping a bunch of money into a long travel system and find out i like crawling better or dump loads of money into a sas conversion for crawling and find i wanna jump dunes more.
any ideas?
__________________
Tundra with a little lift and 33's
Re: what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
If I was in your shoes I would take a hard look at what Sean (devinsixtyseven) has done with his. He runs the slick rock and makes the run across Colorado to get there.
Get some uniball upper control arms get some ARB lockers front and rear keep the center of gravity as low as possible and you wil be able to go most anywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quentin18
k, so right now i am finally starting to mod my truck. ive been bit by the bug.
but right now idk what kind of offroading im gonna eventually get into. idk if im gonna wanna be into like desert racing baja type offroading or if im gonna get into trail riding in mud and rock crawling.
obviously i would like to do both.
Is there a way i can have a set up to get the best of offroading worlds?
or do i have to basically choose one or the other?
is there a type of set up where i can get both kinds of offroading mild lvls that makes is so i can get a feel for both types of offroading, so if i decide to get into one type of offroading i can go from there.
cuz i dont just wanna start dumping a bunch of money into a long travel system and find out i like crawling better or dump loads of money into a sas conversion for crawling and find i wanna jump dunes more.
any ideas?
Re: what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
Quentin you should drop over to the COTTORA forum...stay in touch over there and join us when we hit Utah, so you can see a few different styles of build.
The #1 thing that will help you right now...this will be kind of a hard one to swallow since you just bought those Skyjacker coilovers...but if you want to try a little of both without breaking the bank, get a set of Camburg's uniball upper control arms and their branded Swayaway 2.5" coilovers. You'll get about 10" of front wheel travel, and you won't bake the coilovers running fast like you can around the back roads of Utah.
At least invest in the arms now, it is money well spent and they will be of use now, as they'll help correct your alignment with the lift.
You can certainly go fast in a truck like Jon's. It takes a little more tuning and a little more building, but it can be done. You can also crawl on the IFS setup. You have to ease off the skinny pedal more often, but for most of the trails worth running, it'll do fine. I've also heard over and over at TTORA that a crawl box is a huge help to an IFS truck...that plus an ARB rear locker will set you up good.
The complete Camburg setup will run you ~1500$, but it is a suspension kit, not a lift kit...it's a complete setup for stock length arms, and will take you farther, faster, than the stock suspension or any other aftermarket coilover kit.
Go for a drive. Your truck, right now, is capable of making the Dugout Ranch entry to Beef Basin, and heading north through Needles over Elephant Hill. It'll take you two days...get a couple buddies with trucks similarly prepared, pick up a copy of Charles Wells' "Guide to Utah Backroads & 4WD Trails" for the Elephant Hill description, and the National Geographic Trails Illustrated maps that show Needles District, Cathedral Butte, Dugout Ranch, House and Ruin Parks, etc...should be "Canyonlands: Needles/Island in the Sky" and "Manti-La Sal" maps. If you want, you don't even need to drop down Bobby's Hole...FWIW if you have open diffs and street pressure, you might have a rough time coming back up, so if you go down, commit yourself to exiting via Elephant Hill...but anyway you can go to the drop in to Bobby's Hole, walk around, see what you think, and head back the way you came in.
Bring your recovery & winter camping gear and make it an overnight. There's a kickass campsite at Cathedral Point, and more campsites in Ruin and House Park, as well as near Bobby's Hole. No permit is required until you enter Canyonlands NP, and you'll know when you do as there's a sign.
We've done that entire route in Amado's truck, it's set up nearly identical to yours, and he's running stock tire size.
I would not recommend really hauling *** or entering Elephant Hill if you cannot lower your tire pressure and bring it back up easily. A simple 12V "roadside emergency" compressor will do the job, albeit very slowly and might shut off a few times, or pick up a CO2 tank from a homebrew or bar supply and get a fixed 150# regulator from Ultimate Air (dot com) for 50$ plus hose and chuck and you'll be set.
Stop worrying about your build and go drive it LOL. You have a very capable truck from the factory, you just made it even better, go use it for a while. The road to Cathedral Point has some good basic crawling spots, and the road through the Parks (not the NP, Ruin & House) are wide open, full throttle cruisers.
Don't break anything, it's remote out there. Go with another truck or two and a couple tow straps and you'll be fine.
Call the BLM district and make sure the roads are clear, it's at about 7K ft in places, very exposed, with some north facing slopes and very narrow track for a ways. Also call the Needles ranger station and make sure Elephant Hill is open.
Re: what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
They use a 3/4" bolt with 3/4" to 1" adapters, and the uniball is clocked so the joint limits when the arm touches (just touches) the stock bump stops. Any farther (like a hard hit, or low profile stops) and it binds.
I have a pair of 3/4" F911 bolts that are bent enough that the upper spacer won't come off.
They don't droop as far either, and on droop you get similar results. That's why they released the spindle gussets, to protect the ring at the top of the spindle from cracking when the joint binds.
Burg uses a 5/8" to 1" adapter and a Bowmalloy bolt. The joint can travel farther, so it won't bind under normal operation, hard hits, low profile stops, full droop, etc...so it cannot break the spindle.
Re: what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
Whats up with the $200 price difference between Total Chaos and Camburg Upper Conrtol Arms? Total Chaos being $720 and Camburg being $520. Are'nt they similar?
Re: what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek24
Whats up with the $200 price difference between Total Chaos and Camburg Upper Conrtol Arms? Total Chaos being $720 and Camburg being $520. Are'nt they similar?
Chaos uses 4130 DOM, Camburg uses regular high carbon steel DOM. That is the price difference. Unfortunately the critical difference is in the design of the joint and adapters, not the material of the arm itself.
Re: what is the way to get the best of both offroading worlds?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven
Quentin you should drop over to the COTTORA forum...stay in touch over there and join us when we hit Utah, so you can see a few different styles of build.
The #1 thing that will help you right now...this will be kind of a hard one to swallow since you just bought those Skyjacker coilovers...but if you want to try a little of both without breaking the bank, get a set of Camburg's uniball upper control arms and their branded Swayaway 2.5" coilovers. You'll get about 10" of front wheel travel, and you won't bake the coilovers running fast like you can around the back roads of Utah.
At least invest in the arms now, it is money well spent and they will be of use now, as they'll help correct your alignment with the lift.
You can certainly go fast in a truck like Jon's. It takes a little more tuning and a little more building, but it can be done. You can also crawl on the IFS setup. You have to ease off the skinny pedal more often, but for most of the trails worth running, it'll do fine. I've also heard over and over at TTORA that a crawl box is a huge help to an IFS truck...that plus an ARB rear locker will set you up good.
The complete Camburg setup will run you ~1500$, but it is a suspension kit, not a lift kit...it's a complete setup for stock length arms, and will take you farther, faster, than the stock suspension or any other aftermarket coilover kit.
Go for a drive. Your truck, right now, is capable of making the Dugout Ranch entry to Beef Basin, and heading north through Needles over Elephant Hill. It'll take you two days...get a couple buddies with trucks similarly prepared, pick up a copy of Charles Wells' "Guide to Utah Backroads & 4WD Trails" for the Elephant Hill description, and the National Geographic Trails Illustrated maps that show Needles District, Cathedral Butte, Dugout Ranch, House and Ruin Parks, etc...should be "Canyonlands: Needles/Island in the Sky" and "Manti-La Sal" maps. If you want, you don't even need to drop down Bobby's Hole...FWIW if you have open diffs and street pressure, you might have a rough time coming back up, so if you go down, commit yourself to exiting via Elephant Hill...but anyway you can go to the drop in to Bobby's Hole, walk around, see what you think, and head back the way you came in.
Bring your recovery & winter camping gear and make it an overnight. There's a kickass campsite at Cathedral Point, and more campsites in Ruin and House Park, as well as near Bobby's Hole. No permit is required until you enter Canyonlands NP, and you'll know when you do as there's a sign.
We've done that entire route in Amado's truck, it's set up nearly identical to yours, and he's running stock tire size.
I would not recommend really hauling *** or entering Elephant Hill if you cannot lower your tire pressure and bring it back up easily. A simple 12V "roadside emergency" compressor will do the job, albeit very slowly and might shut off a few times, or pick up a CO2 tank from a homebrew or bar supply and get a fixed 150# regulator from Ultimate Air (dot com) for 50$ plus hose and chuck and you'll be set.
Stop worrying about your build and go drive it LOL. You have a very capable truck from the factory, you just made it even better, go use it for a while. The road to Cathedral Point has some good basic crawling spots, and the road through the Parks (not the NP, Ruin & House) are wide open, full throttle cruisers.
Don't break anything, it's remote out there. Go with another truck or two and a couple tow straps and you'll be fine.
Call the BLM district and make sure the roads are clear, it's at about 7K ft in places, very exposed, with some north facing slopes and very narrow track for a ways. Also call the Needles ranger station and make sure Elephant Hill is open.