ORS long travel shock hoop - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

Hugemoose · #1 (**permalink**) 12-09-2008, 10:49 PM

Here is the kit I am talking about: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/99-0...tml#components

So I bit the bullet and bought something

I got a Deaver 10 pack for a steal with only 500 miles on it. They look brand new! Right now I am running Bilstein 5100's with an AAL but I know that they will limit the travel available with these springs.

I know I can't really run longer shocks unless I go with custom mounts, and this kit really seems like a great option.

Does anybody really think this kit is worth it? I don't want to pass up a potentially great thing with them going out of business.

I'm figuring with this kit I can run a 11" or 12" shock with the correct length bumpstops once I measure everything out. I would prefer to not run a 7100 short body shock due to cost and I really don't need the reservoir. So I think a 5125 would suit me just fine.

Thanks for any help guys. And does anybody have any tips of properly measuring once I put my springs on. I have a u-bolt flip kit I'll be putting on too so I need to get the proper length bumpstops as well.

None of this crap would have been a problem if I just bought a Camry and stuck to mountain biking.....

apimpdad · #2 (**permalink**) 12-09-2008, 10:54 PM

For that price, I would at least try to fab one up on my own. It looks simple, so it should be easy to build yourself. Of course, saving money is the #1 priority for me. Just some .120" wall DOM tube would do the truck just fine.

Derek24 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-09-2008, 11:20 PM

Nice addition Hugemoose

Theres was a guy on craigslist with the same set around here and I think he's asking like $300~. You'll have to give me some feedback on how they do wheelin, and tell me what I'm missing.lol From those pics I agree with apimpdad about fab some up, should save you some money. Hey, with your Tundra it just makes it that much easier to throw up mountain bike in and go.

Hugemoose · #4 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 12:19 AM

My only problem is I can't fab. I would have to ask one of the guys I wheel with to make it for me since he can weld, fab, and has access to the metal through work.

And after all of that....I might be paying him more than if I just get this and ask him to weld it all on for me.

I'll talk to him and see what I can do. Maybe I'll at least buy the lower mounts since they seem really nice and the upper bar may be easier to make.

Oh and Derek I'll let you know how they do. I will run the 5100's until I can figure something better out. And I gota figure out how to mount some d@mn bumps.

jjc · #5 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:12 PM

I had something similar that was a hell of a lot cheaper and easier and it worked like a charm. I took a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing and drilled several different upper shock mounting holes across it (about 3 per shock) and then slid it across on top of the frame rails and tack welded it on each side on the outer portion of the frame rails. Used 1/2" Grade 8 bolt in single shear for the upper mount and never had a single problem with it - I will try to find some old pics.

jjc · #6 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:19 PM

I think these pics were taken before I drilled additional mounting hole options on the cross bar. You can see where I cut a little notch in a factory rib under the bed so I could get to the back of the mounting bolt.

Hugemoose · #7 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjc

I had something similar that was a hell of a lot cheaper and easier and it worked like a charm. I took a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing and drilled several different upper shock mounting holes across it (about 3 per shock) and then slid it across on top of the frame rails and tack welded it on each side on the outer portion of the frame rails. Used 1/2" Grade 8 bolt in single shear for the upper mount and never had a single problem with it - I will try to find some old pics.

Yeah I am beginning to think there are cheaper options out there. And there are plenty of places I can pick up lower shock tabs once I decide to venture into this.

Also, I looked into it more, and with much thanks to James (jamesjr4750), it looks like if I used this kit I would probably need to run the 12"...or more likely 14" Bilstein 7100 short bodied reservoir.

So maybe after I run out these 5100's for a little while and get some more money I'll look into having a friend fab something up for me that is relatively simple and effective.

Thanks for the help Jonathon.

jjc · #8 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:25 PM

I was either running the 12" or 14" at that point, think Sean may have bought them from me?

Also, I believe read recently where ORS has gone out of business unfortunately......

Hugemoose · #9 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:32 PM

Thanks for the pictures! But of course that only raised more questions

I saw you were running a block.....and regrets there? I have been debating on using a simple 1" block to get a little more height if I need it since I play in the rocks and not the sand. I've been eying up Toytec's 1" aluminum block....but I can't remember if aluminum or steel is better here.

And did you only weld that to the top portion of the frame rails or is that at all attached to the bed up there? Sorry it's just kind of difficult to tell from the pictures.

If I could pull something like this off and use the stock mounts I would be more than pleased! Thanks a lot for digging up these old picutres.....back when you still had a Toyota axle! And then I shouldn't have too hard of a time finding the proper length shocks by the looks of it since they aren't really at too much of a angle.

Hugemoose · #10 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjc

I was either running the 12" or 14" at that point, think Sean may have bought them from me?

Also, I believe read recently where ORS has gone out of business unfortunately......

Alright sounds good. If I can pull this off I'll be able to figure out what I'll need.

And yeah, that why I was wanting to jump on this before the shut their doors. They stop shipping on Dec 18th. They have an announcement discussing it on the main page. Stupid economy.....

Thanks for the tips Jonathon. You are putting all sorts of bad ideas into my head now!

jjc · #11 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 04:44 PM

The blocks were fine, it's hard to see, but the blocks actually have angle wedges welded to the bottom of them to correct the pinion angle and the entire assemblies were bolted into the spring pack though the center leaf bolts. I wouldn't run aluminum blocks - even on the road.....had a bad experience with some 1" aluminum blocks once. Wish I could find those things - I will look around my shop for them, but they were probably cut up and welded on some other place on my truck by now.........

Hugemoose · #12 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 05:00 PM

Yeah I can't seem to find any 1" blocks that are made from steel.....only 1.5". If I really need to I'll buy those from wheelers w/o the u-bolts. Heck....maybe they'll be able to find me some 1" steel ones.

jjc · #13 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 05:04 PM

Here's another one I found......hey - I may still have that pimp *** flex hose on my exhaust laying around if you want it

!

jamesjr4750 · #14 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 05:31 PM

Hugemose the other thing you need to NOT forget and remember is when you get longer travel shocks is getting the proper extended length rear brake line. The stock one will probably not work and you don't want to rip that clean out and cause a real messy problem.

Derek24 · #15 (**permalink**) 12-10-2008, 08:18 PM

Whats the benefit of the U-bolt flip? I've never seen that.