So, I was in a four car pile up on valentines day and progressive just cut me a $2200 check for new bumpers, mounts. stickers, and hitch, now what I'm wondering is, being that the bedsides have some damage do y'all think that I should just fix the bumpers and hitch and swap to fiberglass fenders all around or would that look stupid with my tires? i eventually wanna put 35's on at this height so I'm thinking that glass is the way to go, especially because it is only a grand for the fenders minus the shipping. I can always go with some wheel adapters to push the wheels out a bit more but I'm not sure it would look good with 33's.
Thanks everyone
Sean
__________________ 2001 Tundra 4.7L i-Force V8
True Flow filter, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, URD MAF calibrator, Magnaflow cats, Jet Accuspeed, NGK Iridium plugs, Royal Purple Lube, ASP Underdrive pulley, SSAUTOCHROME headers and Y Pipe, GM 12 Bolt Rear Axle, Yukon gear 4.56's and Heat Treated axles, Rear Disc Brake swap, Moser Bearing Support Diff cover and 1310 Yoke, Mark Williams Enterprises Bearing cap, Camburg UCA, Bilstein 5100 front shocks, Pro CompMX-6 12 InCh TrAvEl Rear Reservoir Shocks, Daystar AAL, Mb Blintz 16 inch wheels, 285-75-16 front 305-70-16 rear NITTO DUNE GRAPPLERS, 2006 Big Brake Upgrade, Debadged, Custom black grille and emblem, PIAA Lights, Red Hoses, Infinity Speakers, Sony XPLOD head unit w/ Bluetooth, 2 KICKER S8L5 subs powered by 800W Xplod Amp
15.56 in the 1/4 before Axle number 3, 305's, MAF calibrator, and cats
0-60 6.2 seconds
Junkyard a front bumper for now, it takes either skill or money to get a good quality front bumper. Might even find a takeoff front bumper from somebody...I shipped my old rear bumper to somebody around here for maybe 50-60$ UPS (?), so look around.
It cost 600$ to get all my glass painted. Fit it to the truck first, clean your cuts, then take it to paint. Make sure they put the stickers on the color, then hit it with clearcoat...your stickers will never get shredded again, it's great.
Get a decent wraparound rear bumper, some 1.5" wheel adapters for the front end, then see if you have any $ left...if you do, either buy a welder (110v is fine for body work, 220v is really the best for fabrication) and other associated tools, or find a buddy to help you carve up the front wheel wells, and your next tires can be 35x12.5...
*edit* Duh...I forgot you just got a welder. This is a perfect time to use it. Get the glass, carve up the front, sort out a rear bumper, and get a junkyard replacement for the front that you can cut to fit 35" tires. Doesn't matter if it's dented, as long as you can bend it back in to shape without too much trouble. Test your welder "in position" on 11-gauge material, and put some of that money toward MIG welding classes if you haven't already.
Not a fan of Fiberglass at all. It is the "COOL" thing to do now but personally I think it looks wrong on a vehicle that does not need it. If it needs glass because of long travel or removing the bed for cage work or a wider rear end that is one thing but on a basically stock truck( I know you are not stock but the suspension is basically) it would look funny. Just my 2 cents. I ran stock fenders on both my trucks with upper arms and double shocks and still tore up the desert. Now I have long travel and Deavers so I had to step over to glass.
On a side note 2200 for bed damage and bumpers and hitch? You got screwed. Mine was 2500 for rear bumper and bedside repair. I would see about getting another estimate and make sure you got all your money.
Again just my 2 cents and your truck
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
I think the reason it was low was because my tailgate was off at the time. That's my reason for asking because it is majorly stock, eventually I want to change that but being a broke college student is a problem. my only real plans for the future on my truck are shackle reversal and maybe deaver leaves with 5150s in the rear and possibly custom lengthened control arms with uniballs,real coilovers and air bumps. nothing to crazy. I just dont really see the point in fixing the fender as I'm going to get my truck painted this summer, so there is no real sense in paying fo the same thing twice. That and I would love to eventually run 35s.
__________________ 2001 Tundra 4.7L i-Force V8
True Flow filter, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, URD MAF calibrator, Magnaflow cats, Jet Accuspeed, NGK Iridium plugs, Royal Purple Lube, ASP Underdrive pulley, SSAUTOCHROME headers and Y Pipe, GM 12 Bolt Rear Axle, Yukon gear 4.56's and Heat Treated axles, Rear Disc Brake swap, Moser Bearing Support Diff cover and 1310 Yoke, Mark Williams Enterprises Bearing cap, Camburg UCA, Bilstein 5100 front shocks, Pro CompMX-6 12 InCh TrAvEl Rear Reservoir Shocks, Daystar AAL, Mb Blintz 16 inch wheels, 285-75-16 front 305-70-16 rear NITTO DUNE GRAPPLERS, 2006 Big Brake Upgrade, Debadged, Custom black grille and emblem, PIAA Lights, Red Hoses, Infinity Speakers, Sony XPLOD head unit w/ Bluetooth, 2 KICKER S8L5 subs powered by 800W Xplod Amp
15.56 in the 1/4 before Axle number 3, 305's, MAF calibrator, and cats
0-60 6.2 seconds
I think the reason it was low was because my tailgate was off at the time. That's my reason for asking because it is majorly stock, eventually I want to change that but being a broke college student is a problem. my only real plans for the future on my truck are shackle reversal and maybe deaver leaves with 5150s in the rear and possibly custom lengthened control arms with uniballs,real coilovers and air bumps. nothing to crazy. I just dont really see the point in fixing the fender as I'm going to get my truck painted this summer, so there is no real sense in paying fo the same thing twice. That and I would love to eventually run 35s.
If long travel and 35's are actually going to happen the go ahead and do the glass now. But if those are not then ??? There are some things "we" say we want to do to our trucks and they probably will never happen due to selling the vehicle before or lack of $. So if it is something you feel has a strong possibility and is not just one of those things you want but never can afford then do it. Selling a stock truck is easier then a cut up one.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
Yeah, I know I will never actually have a "Real" long travel kit but I am going to have more of a mid travel set up. I just want something streetable and able to handle some moderate bumps.
Sean
__________________ 2001 Tundra 4.7L i-Force V8
True Flow filter, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, URD MAF calibrator, Magnaflow cats, Jet Accuspeed, NGK Iridium plugs, Royal Purple Lube, ASP Underdrive pulley, SSAUTOCHROME headers and Y Pipe, GM 12 Bolt Rear Axle, Yukon gear 4.56's and Heat Treated axles, Rear Disc Brake swap, Moser Bearing Support Diff cover and 1310 Yoke, Mark Williams Enterprises Bearing cap, Camburg UCA, Bilstein 5100 front shocks, Pro CompMX-6 12 InCh TrAvEl Rear Reservoir Shocks, Daystar AAL, Mb Blintz 16 inch wheels, 285-75-16 front 305-70-16 rear NITTO DUNE GRAPPLERS, 2006 Big Brake Upgrade, Debadged, Custom black grille and emblem, PIAA Lights, Red Hoses, Infinity Speakers, Sony XPLOD head unit w/ Bluetooth, 2 KICKER S8L5 subs powered by 800W Xplod Amp
15.56 in the 1/4 before Axle number 3, 305's, MAF calibrator, and cats
0-60 6.2 seconds
I would say get the front fiberglass because they (Glassworks only) flow with the lines of the stock bumper and arent ridiculous looking on a stock truck. Also, you can always sell them and go back to stock. There is a market for front used fiberglass.
Forget the bedsides, you dont have the travel, they don't look great without the width to fill it, and you probably won't ever be able to sell them for what you paid.
I have a hitch that I took from my 01 before they towed it off, you can probably find a better local deal, but if it comes down to it, I don't need it
I ran 35x12.5R16 on 16x8@4.5", with 1.5" adapters in front, and full glass, for a couple years. It doesn't look bad, or strange, as long as you have the larger tires. I also ran Total Chaos upper control arms...I'd recommend the Camburg instead, tho. It was a great setup.
You will need the front glass and the other stuff I mentioned if you want to run 35x12.5 with a low center of gravity and mid-travel...set the front ride height at about 6" compression travel and 4" droop and it'll do great in the terrain the truck (the body and drivetrain) is capable of traversing. Take care of all the body work now, so you can worry about suspension, drivetrain and tire size later, without concern for ride height other than the up/downtravel ratio. In other words, do it right, now, so you don't ever have to worry about lifting, period.
Pics of exactly what you're talking about doing, bone stock 3.91 open diffs and all...Glassworks panels, with a good bit of trimming...ride height is about even front to rear, maybe 3" to 3.5" over stock suspension height in front, about 2.5" over stock in back, 315/75R16 AT/KOs.
Well, I have the staggered tire size because its a 2 wheel drive, every bit counts right? the reason for the fiberglass is because the bed was damaged, so not doing the rear kind of defeats the purpose. My truck sees mostly street sand and strip being that its two wheel drive and I live in Houston. In the mean time before I need new tires, should I order wheel adapters or just deal with it?
Sean
__________________ 2001 Tundra 4.7L i-Force V8
True Flow filter, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, URD MAF calibrator, Magnaflow cats, Jet Accuspeed, NGK Iridium plugs, Royal Purple Lube, ASP Underdrive pulley, SSAUTOCHROME headers and Y Pipe, GM 12 Bolt Rear Axle, Yukon gear 4.56's and Heat Treated axles, Rear Disc Brake swap, Moser Bearing Support Diff cover and 1310 Yoke, Mark Williams Enterprises Bearing cap, Camburg UCA, Bilstein 5100 front shocks, Pro CompMX-6 12 InCh TrAvEl Rear Reservoir Shocks, Daystar AAL, Mb Blintz 16 inch wheels, 285-75-16 front 305-70-16 rear NITTO DUNE GRAPPLERS, 2006 Big Brake Upgrade, Debadged, Custom black grille and emblem, PIAA Lights, Red Hoses, Infinity Speakers, Sony XPLOD head unit w/ Bluetooth, 2 KICKER S8L5 subs powered by 800W Xplod Amp
15.56 in the 1/4 before Axle number 3, 305's, MAF calibrator, and cats
0-60 6.2 seconds
its a 2 wheel drive, every bit counts right? In the mean time before I need new tires, should I order wheel adapters or just deal with it?
Sean
Oh......dude...
Yes, and save for the Camburg race kit, an ARB locker for the rear, 4.88 gears, and some gas money so you can afford to head west to places like Mojave road.
I think everybody here thought you had a 4WD...that's why I posted all those pictures. Take a look at SoCal Tundras, get the glass and the adapters for now, trim everything like I was saying, and start saving your money for long travel.
I'm either considering the long travel route or the sas route, I haven't decided yet, either way it will cost about the same, SORRY EVERYONE FOR NOT MAKING THAT CLEAR lol
Sean
__________________ 2001 Tundra 4.7L i-Force V8
True Flow filter, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, URD MAF calibrator, Magnaflow cats, Jet Accuspeed, NGK Iridium plugs, Royal Purple Lube, ASP Underdrive pulley, SSAUTOCHROME headers and Y Pipe, GM 12 Bolt Rear Axle, Yukon gear 4.56's and Heat Treated axles, Rear Disc Brake swap, Moser Bearing Support Diff cover and 1310 Yoke, Mark Williams Enterprises Bearing cap, Camburg UCA, Bilstein 5100 front shocks, Pro CompMX-6 12 InCh TrAvEl Rear Reservoir Shocks, Daystar AAL, Mb Blintz 16 inch wheels, 285-75-16 front 305-70-16 rear NITTO DUNE GRAPPLERS, 2006 Big Brake Upgrade, Debadged, Custom black grille and emblem, PIAA Lights, Red Hoses, Infinity Speakers, Sony XPLOD head unit w/ Bluetooth, 2 KICKER S8L5 subs powered by 800W Xplod Amp
15.56 in the 1/4 before Axle number 3, 305's, MAF calibrator, and cats
0-60 6.2 seconds
I'm either considering the long travel route or the sas route, I haven't decided yet, either way it will cost about the same, SORRY EVERYONE FOR NOT MAKING THAT CLEAR lol
Sean
Oh.
You have so many options available right now that it'd be far better if you made the SAS vs 2WD LT decision before you do anything at all to the truck, if you plan for this to be anything more than a daily driver.
Personally...I would still do the glass...no different than what I already wrote above. The body will be ready for whichever way you go.
My other problem is at my school University of St Thomas, the garage I park in might negate both routes since I am close to not fitting already... I agree about the fiberglass though, either route will be made easier if I spread the cost out, and the glass is not that cheap. Thanks for all the help so far guys.
Sean
__________________ 2001 Tundra 4.7L i-Force V8
True Flow filter, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, URD MAF calibrator, Magnaflow cats, Jet Accuspeed, NGK Iridium plugs, Royal Purple Lube, ASP Underdrive pulley, SSAUTOCHROME headers and Y Pipe, GM 12 Bolt Rear Axle, Yukon gear 4.56's and Heat Treated axles, Rear Disc Brake swap, Moser Bearing Support Diff cover and 1310 Yoke, Mark Williams Enterprises Bearing cap, Camburg UCA, Bilstein 5100 front shocks, Pro CompMX-6 12 InCh TrAvEl Rear Reservoir Shocks, Daystar AAL, Mb Blintz 16 inch wheels, 285-75-16 front 305-70-16 rear NITTO DUNE GRAPPLERS, 2006 Big Brake Upgrade, Debadged, Custom black grille and emblem, PIAA Lights, Red Hoses, Infinity Speakers, Sony XPLOD head unit w/ Bluetooth, 2 KICKER S8L5 subs powered by 800W Xplod Amp
15.56 in the 1/4 before Axle number 3, 305's, MAF calibrator, and cats
0-60 6.2 seconds
Maybe look through Jon's thread, see if he has a roof height listed. My truck is a couple inches under a standard residential 2-car garage door opening, on 37" tires. SAS will sit a little higher out of necessity, I'm pretty certain Jon's truck has the lowest ride height of the swapped trucks.
Fiberglass Bedsides and fenders
'05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip 
1994 Toy: 
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