I just move up from 265's to 285's and the acceleration took a hit.(I was expecting it). If I regear to 4.56's do you think it'll be too much of a jump? I don't want to work the engine too much on the highway but I will probably love the difference when taking off from a stop and four wheeling.
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2001 Tundra TRD Access Cab 4x4, SAW/Camburg coilovers, TC diff drop kit, Wheeler's Offroad AAL and Bilstein 5100's, LT265/75R16 BFG AT KO on Wheeler's black alloys, True Flow intake tube and filter with a modded air box, JBA titanium coated headers, Magnaflow 11226 muffler with stainless steel pipes and resonator removed, Skidrow front skidplate with custom made aluminum side shields, extended rear diff breather hose, Hawk LTS brake pads, Wheelers stainless brake hose kit, Helweig swaybar, Downey Offroad front swaybar link kit and cv joint boots,TRD "posi" 3rd member, debadged, backseat-power outlet-map lamp-taillight mod, Optima red top, TRD mirror covers painted flat black, Viair 300P air compressor, blacked out mouldings, bumpers and grille emblem
Know quite a few guys running that combo, I myself went with 4.30s and the 285s, running 2400rpms at 72mph
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2003 Tundra Imperial Jade TRD offroad Performance modifications
2.5 Camburg C/O w/ King 14" 600lb springs, Skidrow Automotive Skidplate
285x75x16 Goodyear Wrangler ATS, 16x8 Ivan Stewart Wheels
4.30 ring and pinion gears, Stock exhaust w/ Magnaflow 18" muffler, TrueFlow filter, Superlift TruSpeed Cosmetic modifications
Debadged, De-decaled and De-labeled sun visors
Pace Edwards Retractable Cover, Toyota Sport Grille
TRD radiator cap, TRD oil cap
RS 3200 Plus Upgrade Modification wishlist
TRD or JBA titanium headers
JBA or possible custom y-pipe
TRD supercharger
IPT valve body mod
Custom Offroad Bumper
Demello offroad sliders
rear disc conversion
Moonroof and power sliding rear window
Where does it ever end
Where did you get the gears and how much were they? Does the truck accelerate better than when it was stock?
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2001 Tundra TRD Access Cab 4x4, SAW/Camburg coilovers, TC diff drop kit, Wheeler's Offroad AAL and Bilstein 5100's, LT265/75R16 BFG AT KO on Wheeler's black alloys, True Flow intake tube and filter with a modded air box, JBA titanium coated headers, Magnaflow 11226 muffler with stainless steel pipes and resonator removed, Skidrow front skidplate with custom made aluminum side shields, extended rear diff breather hose, Hawk LTS brake pads, Wheelers stainless brake hose kit, Helweig swaybar, Downey Offroad front swaybar link kit and cv joint boots,TRD "posi" 3rd member, debadged, backseat-power outlet-map lamp-taillight mod, Optima red top, TRD mirror covers painted flat black, Viair 300P air compressor, blacked out mouldings, bumpers and grille emblem
Where did you get the gears and how much were they? Does the truck accelerate better than when it was stock?
Dealership gears
That or used is the only place you're gonna find 4.30 gears
$700 - $800 for each ring/pinion combo Front or Rear diffs if I remember right. Yes , the dealership loves to rip you off.
4.56 is definately gonna give you BAD gas mileage with 285/75s. Acceleration should be nuts. You'll spin all your power away. I had 29.5's (245/70/16's winter tires on 16x8's) with 3.91 gearing. It was definately fun but you have to be easy on the throttle from a start. Or you just spin tires and don't go anywhere fast.
I get up to 17mpg on the highway with my 305/70/16 BFG mudders , 108 lbs each all mounted up on 16" Steel rims. I rip around with my heavy a s s tires/wheels with no problem. I actually like it better having a load put on the engine now over even the 265/75/16s. In which I ran that size for 40K miles.
Like I said more low gear is gonna spin all the power away. My quad was the same way until I stepped up a tooth (which is going taller) in the front and acceleration is actually better because the power gets to the ground. Instead with a lower gearing I was spinning right through the RPM power band. I found the Tundra to be the same experience with tiny tires/stock gearing which will be the same results as 285's with 4.56 gearing. Its your truck , you decide , but that is my input. Now if anyone has the even heavier 35's and all that rotating mass...yeah. 4.56's should be getting put in there as you'll be much slower than a stock setup gears/tires. Although 35's/Lift/stock gears will still get you way more places than stock gearing/smaller 30" tires that spin /dig you in/and drag the frame from lack of clearance.
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03' Access Cab Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L, 4x4
305/70/16 BFG Muds on 4" B/S Wheelers' Offroad Steel Rims
Donahoe Racing Coilovers (cranked 2.5")
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms and Rack Bushings.
ORS upper mount shock hoop kit / FOX Racing 2.0" Reservoir 11" travel shocks w/ Deaver G57 10 pack rear springs
ARB Sahara Bumper with Fog Light Kit and KC SlimLites in Front
Last edited by jamesjr4750; 04-06-2009 at 03:01 AM.
I've had the tires on for a couple of weeks and the acceleration doesn't seem too bad. I think the 4.56's would be too much. The 4.30's would probably ideal but I'm not going to shell out that kind of dough for them.
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2001 Tundra TRD Access Cab 4x4, SAW/Camburg coilovers, TC diff drop kit, Wheeler's Offroad AAL and Bilstein 5100's, LT265/75R16 BFG AT KO on Wheeler's black alloys, True Flow intake tube and filter with a modded air box, JBA titanium coated headers, Magnaflow 11226 muffler with stainless steel pipes and resonator removed, Skidrow front skidplate with custom made aluminum side shields, extended rear diff breather hose, Hawk LTS brake pads, Wheelers stainless brake hose kit, Helweig swaybar, Downey Offroad front swaybar link kit and cv joint boots,TRD "posi" 3rd member, debadged, backseat-power outlet-map lamp-taillight mod, Optima red top, TRD mirror covers painted flat black, Viair 300P air compressor, blacked out mouldings, bumpers and grille emblem
I would leave it stock. I have 4:88's on 35's and its over kill. It does get up from a dead stop like crazy and will climb anything when in 4lo but it sucks on the highway. I'm at about 2700 at 70mph.
What James said x2. Joe used to run 4.56 and 33" tires, and said it wasn't much help on the highway.
IMO it would only be useful if you spend a lot of time offroad, or in heavy traffic, or climbing long, steep grades on the highway. If you live in Pittsburgh (heavy traffic and steep grades ), it'll be useful. If you live in Kansas, it'll just be frustrating.
Where did you get the gears and how much were they? Does the truck accelerate better than when it was stock?
Like stated from others, they were purchase from the dealership brand new running $725 for the set, then I replaced all bearings and the install set me back about a grand, and I'm only 2wd but it was the appropriate match for me and I couldn't be happier with my decision.
__________________
2003 Tundra Imperial Jade TRD offroad Performance modifications
2.5 Camburg C/O w/ King 14" 600lb springs, Skidrow Automotive Skidplate
285x75x16 Goodyear Wrangler ATS, 16x8 Ivan Stewart Wheels
4.30 ring and pinion gears, Stock exhaust w/ Magnaflow 18" muffler, TrueFlow filter, Superlift TruSpeed Cosmetic modifications
Debadged, De-decaled and De-labeled sun visors
Pace Edwards Retractable Cover, Toyota Sport Grille
TRD radiator cap, TRD oil cap
RS 3200 Plus Upgrade Modification wishlist
TRD or JBA titanium headers
JBA or possible custom y-pipe
TRD supercharger
IPT valve body mod
Custom Offroad Bumper
Demello offroad sliders
rear disc conversion
Moonroof and power sliding rear window
Where does it ever end
I would leave it stock. I have 4:88's on 35's and its over kill. It does get up from a dead stop like crazy and will climb anything when in 4lo but it sucks on the highway. I'm at about 2700 at 70mph.
I drove my truck to work today and at 70 mph (in OD) she was turning 2,400 rpm. I've recalibrated the speedo with a Superlift Tru-speed recalibrator and according to my GPS, I'm dead on with my actual and indicated speed. Not sure why you're turning 300 rpm more? I also tow a 26' travel trailer so I'm happy with the lower gearing. Gas mileage - it is what it is. That's why my daily driver is now a 33 mpg Yaris S sedan. I still bust out the Tundra now again when I need an altitude adjusment.
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My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Well, if you recalibrated, it better show the correct speed !
But engine rpm will still be higher...mine's the same way...I'd give you a number but my truck hasn't been on the highway in a while ...maybe in a month !
I am with HERB, 35's and 4.88's are perfect for me. 2400rpm @70mph
When I had 35's w/the 4.56's, it wouldn't get out of it's own way even with the S/C . The 33's with the 4.56's were perfect for me, but I tow so 4.30 would be a good medium if you dont tow. The gears have not affected mileage that much. I get 13mpg and have always. Towing mileage....don't ask.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
25 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
285's and 4.56"s?
), it'll be useful. If you live in Kansas, it'll just be frustrating.
but it was the appropriate match for me and I couldn't be happier with my decision.
That's why my daily driver is now a 33 mpg Yaris S sedan. 
I still bust out the Tundra now again when I need an altitude adjusment. 
Linear Mode
