What do you plan on doing with your truck? 2.5 tons are great for mudding....and enormous tires. But otherwise a well built 1 ton will probably suit you much better and give you a more reasonable axle width.
Most people that wheel with 2.5 tons are fully built buggies that really romp on their vehicle. Even then that doesn't always require that axle.
If you still plan on driving it most days I would advise against it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by apimpdad
Built 1 tons are stronger than stock 2.5 ton rockwells. Upgraded 2" shafts for rockwells are a lot of money. Build the 1 tons right and you wont have any problems with them.
I am looking to build a truck that can navigate all terrains, you know kinda like an expedition vehicle. I want to be able to get through deep mud and water, crawl on a mild rock trail, snow sand capable etc. I’m not sure if this is possible, but im willing to try. I’m thinking 38’s are the largest tires I would want to fit under the truck, would even consider 40’s if I can maintain a good center gravity.
From your experiences, is this doable or am I pissing in the wind?
Edit: I don’t know why but everyone else I’ve talked too seems to try and talk me out of doing this project.
I am looking to build a truck that can navigate all terrains, you know kinda like an expedition vehicle. I want to be able to get through deep mud and water, crawl on a mild rock trail, snow sand capable etc. I’m not sure if this is possible, but im willing to try. I’m thinking 38’s are the largest tires I would want to fit under the truck, would even consider 40’s if I can maintain a good center gravity.
From your experiences, is this doable or am I pissing in the wind?
Edit: I don’t know why but everyone else I’ve talked too seems to try and talk me out of doing this project.
It is possible to build a rig that does well in all terrains that you noted. Obviously its not going to be the best at every one, but it is doable. It all depends on what kind of terrain you are around. You would probably want it to perform best at what that would be.
One reason people are telling you not to do this project is probably because it is much bigger than you think. It takes a lot of money to get what you want and you will continue to throw money at it because you will always want something better. Trust me and all the SAS'd guys are that way haha.
Well i have everything up here in Maryland except sand, but if i go out to the coast there are some parks that allow beach wheeling. Mostly mountain terrain though. Though this is my first truck build, I am no stranger to autos. I’ve dumped tons of money and time into my Corvettes and T/A’s, so either way you look at it, to build a vehicle cost $$$$$$$$$$$$
If I had it to do all over again, I would have started with the exact axles I'm currently running (D-60 front / 14-bolt rear), same rear Alcan leaf springs, 3-link the front with 12" coil overs, pushed the front axle 2" farther toward the front, and would have moved the rear axle up 12"-14" to get the wheelbase a little shorter......that's just me though......
If you truly want and expo rig, 2-1/2-ton axles is not the answer ! I would say 1-tons are about as big & heavy as you want to go. You can make 40's fit, but it would be a helluva lot easier staring out with them from the beginning. If I would have started out with 40's, I wouldn't be sitting here wishing I would have built the shock hoops different for clearance, pushed the front axle up farther frontwards, cut the fenders 2" higher and reinstalled the factory flares,.......you know......all the sh*t I'm gonna have to redo now ! But if I 3-link the front, all that gets fixed inherently........soooooo.........I see it as a needed "repair" rather than a mod !
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
What are the differences between going to a salvage yard and buying one tons and building them verse going with a pre built Dynatrac axle? Are the Dynatrac axles stronger, or is it more less the name you are paying for?
The aftermarket center sections typically are beefed up to elimate the possibility of deflection, have additional ground clearance, and the axle tubes are usually 1/2" wall and won't bend near as easy. IMO, Solid is a much better bang for your buck than Dynatrac though.
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
Salvage yard here I come then lol! I have about a year left to pay on this truck, so I will not start cutting till then, but I am starting to reconsider ripping this rig up. Been thinking of buy a cheap 1gen from the auction to start the project sooner. Do you have any input on converting a 4x2 into an SAS 4x4?
Salvage yard here I come then lol! I have about a year left to pay on this truck, so I will not start cutting till then, but I am starting to reconsider ripping this rig up. Been thinking of buy a cheap 1gen from the auction to start the project sooner. Do you have any input on converting a 4x2 into an SAS 4x4?
If you're planning on running an aftermarket t-case I would imagine it would be as easy, if not easier to just start out with a 2-wheel drive. Depends on how far you plan on taking your build initially.
__________________
2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
I am willing to take it as far as it will take me. This is my first truck build and I want to attempt to do it all on my own, from fabricating to repairs and upgrades later down the line. My thoughts on the 4x2 are that it will be less shop time getting the rig built cause I will not have to cut out as much framing/ bracing and hopefully a more open area to work and plan in, that is until I get the new parts installed. Got this idea from the new "Four Wheeler" magazine.