I have been doing some research on the SAS setup for a few months, and I’m completely sold on it!
The problem is I have not idea where to start Currently I’ve been on Teddnet.com, Maryland Creepers.com, Pirate4x4.com and of course TS trying to pull info. As I’m sure you guys know, SAS’ing a Tundra is rare
Getting to the point, I would like to go with a link front end and use 1 ton axles front and back (this is about as far as I have gotten). Can any of you help me construct a parts list, or point me in the right direction? By this I mean Im looking for the minimum list of parts ill need just to get the truck built and on the road. The rest, like hydro assist, lockers etc ill do later after the initial build is complete.
I hope that I am asking the right questions. This is my first 4x4 build. I am coming from the sports car world.
However, this is with a lot of taco owners using D44's. Linked front and rear goes into a completely different world when doing the SAS. I'm not experienced or capable enough to tell you what you need. Just know that it's more complicated than a leaf spring set-up.
I do know, your main parts are going to be the axles, suspension and steering. Everything else is parts to integrate them together to make it work for your truck. At this point the list of parts are probably going to consist of pre-fabbed parts or custom built parts to support everything: shock hoops, tabs for the links and suspension, DOM tubing for the links, steering track/panhard bar, rod ends, driveshaft and flanges,
Unimog axles? Not unless you are planning on running at least a 42" tire. The gearing in those axles are very low and they have portals on the ends of them for extra gearing and ground clearance, which would raise your center of gravity more than you would probably like. That is if you are trying to keep a low center of gravity. I would toss that idea out quickly. If I were to re-do my truck, I think I would have done with either a dana 70 rear or more than likely a 14-bolt rear, and a chevy dana 60 front. All those axles are easier to find and way cheaper than say a 78-79 Ford D-60. Then I would just take out the stock T-case and run a crawl box and an older passenger drop gear driven T-case with an upgraded output shaft.
Making a solid full proof parts list is impossible. I cant even begin to think of making a list of all the stuff that I have used and gone through. Little things like nuts and bolts, fluids, welding wire, cutoff wheels, sawzall blades (some of this is if you do the build yourself of course). It will just keep on adding up and it is really never ending.
Unimog axles? Not unless you are planning on running at least a 42" tire. The gearing in those axles are very low and they have portals on the ends of them for extra gearing and ground clearance, which would raise your center of gravity more than you would probably like. That is if you are trying to keep a low center of gravity. I would toss that idea out quickly. If I were to re-do my truck, I think I would have done with either a dana 70 rear or more than likely a 14-bolt rear, and a chevy dana 60 front. All those axles are easier to find and way cheaper than say a 78-79 Ford D-60. Then I would just take out the stock T-case and run a crawl box and an older passenger drop gear driven T-case with an upgraded output shaft.
Making a solid full proof parts list is impossible. I cant even begin to think of making a list of all the stuff that I have used and gone through. Little things like nuts and bolts, fluids, welding wire, cutoff wheels, sawzall blades (some of this is if you do the build yourself of course). It will just keep on adding up and it is really never ending.
If i can pull enough info together than ill do the work myself with help of course. If not i found a shop that will do it, but i have not inquired pricing yet. I've heard a few people talking up the 14 bolt, so ill have to look into them.
If you had to do it again would you go with a link setup, or stay with the leaf. Also with the leaf do you get much axle roll?
If i can pull enough info together than ill do the work myself with help of course. If not i found a shop that will do it, but i have not inquired pricing yet. I've heard a few people talking up the 14 bolt, so ill have to look into them.
If you had to do it again would you go with a link setup, or stay with the leaf. Also with the leaf do you get much axle roll?
14 bolt is a very tried and trued axle. There is a plethora of aftermarket support for it from gears and lockers to disk brake conversions and axle trusses. The ground clearance on a 14 bolt isn't the best for a 10"+ ring gear axle but to me at least its not that big a deal. Its a very strong axle that you cant go wrong with.
If I were to do it over, I would love to go with a linked suspension, but I probably still wouldn't because I don't really need it. I would run different front springs, probably just chevy fronts or a custom set from Alcan or something, and I would also run the shackle on the rear of the leaf spring on my front end instead of the front like it is now for better ride quality. I would however (and I want to do it anyway with my current setup) want to link the rear and leave the leafs up front. Something simple with coils and a triangulated 4-link or maybe a 3-link with panhard or even a 3 link wishbone style setup.
My springs are very stiff, probably the stiffest on any of the SAS tundras that are out there. This pretty much eliminates axle roll, to an extant. My front springs are designed for a 99-04 F-250 with a gas motor so they are still pretty stiff and they keep the axle pretty steady. My rear springs are stockers that have been re-arched and they ride pretty stiff also (I have no blocks in the back either). I have a video that shows my axle wrap driving normal and in double-low.
Tomorrow i am going to scout out some local junkyards for some axles, steering boxes and oil pan given it is not pouring rain and lightning out.
So I was reading about a guy that uses an elliptical leaf spring in the rear. Looks like he gets crazy flexibility out of it. There sure is a lot to take in when dealing with suspension
Another question. Why do i see some trucks with their axle yokes faced up? How does that benifit an off road vehicle? I assume it puts the yoke and axles more outta harms way?
Tomorrow i am going to scout out some local junkyards for some axles, steering boxes and oil pan given it is not pouring rain and lightning out.
So I was reading about a guy that uses an elliptical leaf spring in the rear. Looks like he gets crazy flexibility out of it. There sure is a lot to take in when dealing with suspension
Steering boxes: Anything from 86-95 (pickup, 4-Runner IFS trucks) and they HAVE TO be 4x4. The boxes differ from 4x4 and 4x2 applications. Your probably not going to find a lot of oil pans, And I wouldn't worry about that very much until you now how high you are going and if you are going with links or leafs.
There are full elliptical, 3/4 elliptical, 1/2 elliptical, and 1/4 elliptical. What your truck has now (stock) is a 1/2 elliptical setup. Full elliptical is what you find on old wagons and what not (hard to explain). 1/4 elliptical is difficult to setup up but will give you awesome flex. 3/4 elliptical is not used as much as others.
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Originally Posted by Ironman02
Another question. Why do i see some trucks with their axle yokes faced up? How does that benifit an off road vehicle? I assume it puts the yoke and axles more outta harms way?
What are you referring to? The front or rear axles? On the rear axle, people point up their pinion because of how high their lift is and too eliminate vibrations caused by pinion, t-case output, and driveshaft angles.
On a front end, you can have either a low pinion or high pinion. High pinion is more popular and sought after because it raises the pinion and driveshaft up higher out of the rocks and what not.
Thanks Pimp for your input. I roll solo up here when it comes to wheelin, so i don't have a lot of help, plus i can only comprehend so much outta my off road magazines being that this is my first 4x4 build. I am starting to form a good idea of what direction im going to head in though.
Going leaf, or link will all depend on if I am doing the work, or if a shop will do it. With a new house and baby, I can't see forking out 25k when it looks like most of you that are running leafs are doing just fine.
If you really want to go "hell for stout" and get your drivetrain up out of harms way, you could go with military 2 1/2 ton axles; but, they would be a true "custom" build. Just saying, since you're talking D 70s, 14 bolts, etc. D 60 high pinions will do quite well, though, in most applications.
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Rrumbler - Wrenching and banging on stuff for over sixty years.
If you really want to go "hell for stout" and get your drivetrain up out of harms way, you could go with military 2 1/2 ton axles; but, they would be a true "custom" build. Just saying, since you're talking D 70s, 14 bolts, etc. D 60 high pinions will do quite well, though, in most applications.
Think the 2.5 ton axles mite be a little over kill, however if i found a good deal on them... What the hell. We have a military auction up here it may be worth stoppig in one night
Think the 2.5 ton axles mite be a little over kill, however if i found a good deal on them... What the hell. We have a military auction up here it may be worth stoppig in one night
What do you plan on doing with your truck? 2.5 tons are great for mudding....and enormous tires. But otherwise a well built 1 ton will probably suit you much better and give you a more reasonable axle width.
Most people that wheel with 2.5 tons are fully built buggies that really romp on their vehicle. Even then that doesn't always require that axle.
If you still plan on driving it most days I would advise against it.
__________________ David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/ Deaver 10 pack~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
Built 1 tons are stronger than stock 2.5 ton rockwells. Upgraded 2" shafts for rockwells are a lot of money. Build the 1 tons right and you wont have any problems with them.
SAS guys i need your help please
Currently I’ve been on Teddnet.com, Maryland Creepers.com, Pirate4x4.com and of course TS trying to pull info. As I’m sure you guys know, SAS’ing a Tundra is rare
David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/ Deaver 10 pack~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
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