Hey Guys,
Well, I've been searching for weeks now and trying to get together all the parts and accessories on paper needed for the ARB Air Locker. I found a place I can purchase the locker from for $800, no tax, no shipping, and thats the cheapest I have found.
I know that I need an air compressor to activate the locker, but my question is do I need an air tank also or does the locker work just with the compressor? If it just runs off the compressor will the compressor be running all the time while the locker is engaged?
I was looking on ARB's website and they said, "Installation should be performed by a qualified differential technician, although no special tools or skills are required apart from those necessary for fitting a standard differential." This makes me think I can install this myself since I installed my Powertrax No-Slip, or am I looking at a more complicated install then the No-Slip? I've read that bring your truck to a shop for them to install will cost somewhere around $300 depending on how much work your do yourself. I was thinking if I cannot install it myself, what if I do most of the work; removing the 3rd member and possibly more if I can. Will this cut down on cost? And does anyone no a good shop around the Bay Area or want to help me?
Another thing, where do you drill the hole for the air line, in the Diff. or in the 3rd member? I can't remember what Herb's ARB set-up looked like I was too busy envying the rest of his truck Anyways thanks for the time to read this I know its long, but I want to get it right the first time, and thanks for the replies!
Thanks for the compliment. You might check with Jim Christiansen (I think I misspelled his last name) owner of Inchworm Gear - Toyota Rockcrawling Equipment in Shingle Springs. Mention you know me through Tundra Solutions, might help. His shop regeared my truck to 4.88's and they also did the ARB rear air locker. For the 4.88's, I pulled both diff's and took them to him that way. For the rear ARB, I just took him my truck and let his guys do the heavy lifting. Once I got it back, I did the switch, wiring, airline and solenoid. Sorry but I don't remember the cost since it's been a couple of years. Anyway, he might give you a better price on the ARB if you also have him do the install. Your time is worth money too, you'll have to decide whether to do it yourself or not. I can take a picture or two of where the airline hole was drilled in the 3rd member if you like.
Since I already had an air tank installed, I just ran my ARB airline from it. The air locker requires a certain amount of air pressure to remain engaged, I don't think you would want to just run a compressor without an air tank. I would highly recommend doing an air tank so you can get a head start on airing up your tires after doing some wheelin. Air tanks aren't too expensive. Check out the kits available from Wheeler's Off-Road. I can take additional pics of where I have the air tank installed, etc if you like.
I know ARB's are expensive, but I sure do like mine!
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My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Air tanks are nice but, you don't need a tank for ARB locker operation. I don't have one. My lockers works directly from the compressor. I have the "Heavy Duty ARB Compressor". When I kick on the compressor it runs for about 10 to 20 secs, depending on the altitude, to pressurize the lines to 100 psi. When I engage a locker the compressor kicks on for about 5-10 secs. The air pressure will slowly bleed down to 70 psi about every 20-30 minutes and the compressor will kick on for about 10 secs.
If you want to air tires from an aired down off roading session, a tank would serve you well and you should consider a better compressor too. The Heavy Duty ARB Compress doesn't have the duty cycle for airing up 33+ meats.
The airline should feed thru the hog head per ARB. The guy who installed mine ran it thru the diff because the hog head was too hard to drill. I was disappointed.
Last edited by RogueRider; 10-18-2009 at 11:20 AM.
If you pull your own third member the cost goes way down. I had gearinstalls.com do mine for ~$100. The instructions have a photo of where to drill through the third member, but Zuk did all of that for me. The wiring and plumbing is easy. I use the compact ARB compressor because i heard the larger ones weren't able to fill tires either (same as RogueRider says). I have a second compressor to fill tires.
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Thanks Herb, I will give Inchworm a call. I looked on their website and I believe they were asking $865 for the locker, so if they could help with the price and install it might be worth it and the drive. Oh and if you don't mind I would like to see where you're air line is drilled. I remember where your tank is hinden, very sleek!!. Thanks again Herb.
Hey RogueRider, thanks that clear some things up. I thought you could just use the compressor for the locker. Now I see that when you install the locker there are two switches, one for the compressor and one for the locker. I was thinking one did it all. At least I know now that you can run the air line either through the diff or the 3rd, I could see how the diff would be easier to drill through that 3rd member is one heavy SOB!
Hey Blender, I'm glad to hear that the cost goes way down doing some of the work yourself(I guess that goes for everything). I don't mind doing the work it is kind of a hobby of mine; tweaking my truck. So you are just using the compact compressor to engage the locker? How's that working for you? I also have another compressor in the truck to fill the tires if I need to.
Anyways thanks for the replies. I just got out of the hills about an hour ago and the twisty turns on the way up were just killing my tries with this locker. I figured the ARB will pay for its self since I will be able to keep my MT's for a little longer.
Another question for you guys, with my locker now I have some slack in the driveline since its an automatic locker and it will sometimes bang in when I shift it into drive or reverse. Also in stop and go traffic if I'm not easy on the gas it will do the same thing. This is probly the main reason I want to get rid of it. Does the ARB unit have this problem when disengaged and driving around town, or does it feel like it did when you drove it off the lot; smooth? Thanks again.
Thanks Herb, I will give Inchworm a call. I looked on their website and I believe they were asking $865 for the locker, so if they could help with the price and install it might be worth it and the drive. Oh and if you don't mind I would like to see where you're air line is drilled. I remember where your tank is hinden, very sleek!!. Thanks again Herb.
Another question for you guys, with my locker now I have some slack in the driveline since its an automatic locker and it will sometimes bang in when I shift it into drive or reverse. Also in stop and go traffic if I'm not easy on the gas it will do the same thing. This is probly the main reason I want to get rid of it. Does the ARB unit have this problem when disengaged and driving around town, or does it feel like it did when you drove it off the lot; smooth? Thanks again.
Sure thing, I'll shoot and post a pic or two tonight if possible.
I've never engaged my ARB 'on-road', but disengaged it's like no locker at all. Nice and smooth. Since I also tow a 26' travel trailer, it's much easier on the rear drive train to have a locker I can turn on and off.
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
I could've sworn I saw one for sale already installed either on TTORA or Pirate. Check them out just to be sure. If I find it I'll let you know.
As far as the "clunking" that's definitely something that you have to get use to. Even with the Detroit locker.
Thanks Dyogim I'm going to those sites and checking it out, thanks for the heads up!! I've been trying to get use to the clunking, its always in the back of my mind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herbicidal
Sure thing, I'll shoot and post a pic or two tonight if possible.
I've never engaged my ARB 'on-road', but disengaged it's like no locker at all. Nice and smooth. Since I also tow a 26' travel trailer, it's much easier on the rear drive train to have a locker I can turn on and off.
Thanks Herb for the pics that helps!! I'm glad to hear that its smooth. I'm trying to fine tune my truck, and get it ready for a 1000+ mile roadtrip in May of next year. I got a good list going.
Here's the air-line. Picture taken from above the driveshaft looking toward the rear of the truck. Looks like I have a slight oil mist collecting dirt.
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
^^Thanks Corban White, I've been reading alot about the locker, and if I have some more technical questions I will likely give Kurt a call. I like those FJ's on his site, very cool.
Hey Herb clean that thing...jk lol!! Thats the pic I was looking for, drill right in the top of the 3rd. Seems doable!
ARB Air Locker
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Anyways thanks for the time to read this I know its long, but I want to get it right the first time, and thanks for the replies!
You might check with Jim Christiansen (I think I misspelled his last name) owner of 
. So you are just using the compact compressor to engage the locker? How's that working for you? I also have another compressor in the truck to fill the tires if I need to.
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