Modifying the power steering pump

[Joe]

I just received my rebuilt power steering pump yesterday and I was just going to modify it slightly to increase its pressure prior to installation. Removed the high-pressure nut and it appears/seems like the piston is either held in by a pin or it's pressed in. In any event, I'm unable to remove it. Has anyone increased the pressure on their stock Tundra power steering pump, and if so, share your "expertise" please.

[mustang67408]

POWER STEERING FLUID:
Oil pressure at idle speed with valve closed Minimum 8,336 kPa (85 kgf/cm2, 1,209 psi)
Why would you want more than 1,209 PSI of pressure??????? This is the minimum pressure , it goes up from there as you turn . Thats why they tell you not to hold it on the LOCK for more than 10 seconds.

[Joe]

Well, some people just need a little more of a good thing. I crawl around a few rocks every now and then with air downed 35" Krawlers, which have a nice wide footprint. My hydo-assist helps the gear box but doesn't do much for the pump. When you turn those puppies on slickrock all day long, a little more pump volume and pressure is a good thing. (Coolers help too) Mine finally blew a couple of weeks ago and I'm just trying to give myself a little better edge with a stock rebuilt. Do you know how to get that piston out?

[mustang67408]

There is a vast Wealth of knowledge and HOW TO's In TS. Alot of very knowledgable people.Please consider joining to access all the valuable info like this.JOIN

DISASSEMBLY
NOTICE:
When using a vise, do not overtighten it.
1. Check that the pump rotates smoothly without abnormal
noise.
2. REMOVE SUCTION PORT UNION
Remove the bolt and suction port union.
Remove the O–ring from the union.
3. REMOVE PRESSURE PORT UNION, FLOW CONTROL
VALVE AND SPRING
Remove the pressure port union, flow control valve and
spring.
Remove the O–ring from the pressure port union.
4. REMOVE REAR HOUSING
Remove the 4 bolts and rear housing.
HINT:
If the wave washer and side plate are stuck to the rear housing,
lightly tap the rear housing with a plastic hammer, and remove
the wave washer and side plate.
(b) Remove the 2 O–rings from the rear housing.
5. REMOVE WAVE WASHER
6. REMOVE SIDE PLATE
7. REMOVE GASKET
8. REMOVE CAM RING, 10 VANE PLATES AND VANE
PUMP ROTOR
Using a screwdriver, remove the snap ring from the vane
pump shaft.
Remove the cam ring, 10 vane plates and vane pump rotor.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to drop the plate.
9. REMOVE VANE PUMP SHAFT WITH VANE PUMP
PULLEY
10. REMOVE STRAIGHT PINS
Remove the 2 pins from the front housing.
NOTICE:
When using a vise, do not overtighten it.
1. COAT PARTS WITH POWER STEERING FLUID
2. INSTALL VANE PUMP SHAFT WITH VANE PUMP
PULLEY
3. INSTALL STRAIGHT PINS
Using a plastic hammer, tap in 2 new pins to the front housing.
Be careful not to damage the pins.
4. INSTALL CAM RING
Install the cam ring with the inscribed mark facing outward.
HINT:
Align the holes of the cam ring with the straight pins.
5. INSTALL VANE PUMP ROTOR
Install the vane pump rotor with the inscribed mark facing
outward.
Install a new snap ring to the vane pump shaft.
6. INSTALL VANE PLATES AND GASKET
Install the 10 plates with the round end facing outward.
Install a new gasket on the front housing.
NOTICE:
Be careful of the direction of the gasket.
7. INSTALL SIDE PLATE
Align the holes of the plate and 2 straight pins.
8. INSTALL WAVE WASHER
Install the washer so that its protrusions fit into the slots in the
side plate.
9. INSTALL REAR HOUSING
Coat 2 new O–rings with power steering fluid and install
them to the rear housing.
Install the rear housing with the 4 bolts.
10. INSTALL SPRING, FLOW CONTROL VALVE AND
PRESSURE PORT UNION
Install the spring to the front housing.
Install the flow control valve facing the correct direction
Coat a new O–ring with power steering fluid and install it
to the pressure port union.
Install the pressure port union.
11. INSTALL SUCTION PORT UNION
Coat a new O–ring with power steering fluid and install it
to the suction port union.
Install the suction port union with the bolt.
Hope this helps.

[TMS2U]

Before I got my hydro assist ram on, my ps fluid was getting as hot as 240oF (I put in an inline sensor) when working against the front locker in the rocks. So I added an additional cooler (just an aux tranny cooler from Kragen in addition to the morroso filter/cooler unit) so far so good. The last trip it never got hotter than 140. I have a rebuild kit in the tool box just in case- Im afraid that my poor pump has been cooked by all the extra demands I've placed on it and want to be ready just in case!

[Joe]

Originally Posted by TMS2U

Before I got my hydro assist ram on, my ps fluid was getting as hot as 240oF (I put in an inline sensor) when working against the front locker in the rocks. So I added an additional cooler (just an aux tranny cooler from Kragen in addition to the morroso filter/cooler unit) so far so good. The last trip it never got hotter than 140. I have a rebuild kit in the tool box just in case- Im afraid that my poor pump has been cooked by all the extra demands I've placed on it and want to be ready just in case!

For some moronic reason, I installed a large fluid reservoir when I went with the hydro assist, thinking that would be sufficient. I should have installed a cooler like you did, as that should be the solution for our heating problem. If I can figure out a way to get that piston out (on older Toyota's it almost drops out once you remove the high pressure nut) I'll remove the shims and that will greatly increase the operating pressure prior to the by-pass valve kicking out. I think that's about all Saginaw pumps do - increase the flow a little bit, up the operating pressure to around 1300 psi and up the by-pass valve pressure. All I need to do is up the by-pass valve pressure and add a cooler and I shouldn't have any more problems with the pump. Next week I'll get with a guy who might take on the job of making me a "super" strength steering rod. I don't need the "super" strength, just a lot of flex within the rod. If you have an after-market lower steering rod - check it for flex, as mine didn't have enough flex and it just "fatigued" and if that point in time would have occurred on Interstate 70 in Colorado, I think I would have had one hell of a last ride. The Tundra is just so heavy up front - If only there were 35" tires with a 10.5" footprint.

[mustang67408]

After removing the pressure port union, the flow control valve (piston) should just fall right out. If it is stuck, you might have to PERSUADE it to come out. Carb cleaner, small amount of heat or tapping on it.
Please show me or point me were to go for info about your HYDRO BOOST.

[Joe]

Originally Posted by mustang67408

After removing the pressure port union, the flow control valve (piston) should just fall right out. If it is stuck, you might have to PERSUADE it to come out. Carb cleaner, small amount of heat or tapping on it.
Please show me or point me were to go for info about your HYDRO BOOST.

Ya, It should just fall out but maybe this one will need a little C-4. Here's the site for the Hydo-assist:

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/index.html

[mustang67408]

AH, now i understand, I saw TMS2U's photos.
Thankx, hope ya get the valve unstuck

[jjc]

FYI - On my Bronco I used a power steering fluid cooler from either Jeggs or Summit Racing, it worked really good and can be mounted just about anywhere - I had mine on my front fender well. I will try to find a link to it, it was about 10" long and 3" in diameter with cooling fins running the length of it and it was all aluminum. I will be adding one to mine now that I have an ARB in the front, even though I am not a member of the cool SAS dude club(yet )!

[Joe]

Originally Posted by jjc

FYI - On my Bronco I used a power steering fluid cooler from either Jeggs or Summit Racing, it worked really good and can be mounted just about anywhere - I had mine on my front fender well. I will try to find a link to it, it was about 10" long and 3" in diameter with cooling fins running the length of it and it was all aluminum. I will be adding one to mine now that I have an ARB in the front, even though I am not a member of the cool SAS dude club(yet )!

It's really called the "$cool $bling $bling $club"

[jjc]

I knew there was some special name for the club . Here is a link to a cooler that looks identical to my old one http://www.zigsstreetrods.com/Pages/oilcooler.html. I think it is a different brand, but it's the same design.

[Joe]

Thanks Jon, that's just the type I was searching for. I'm changing out my power steering pump tomorrow. Can't get the piston out - no way in hell will it budge, so I hope this rebuilt and cooler can keep me in business for a couple of years.

[Island_Tundra]

Since we are on the topic of power steering, I have a question for all you gurus. Just recently, the power steering on my truck has started to make squeaking noises when I try to turn it without moving. If I am in motion, there is no noise but if I am at a stand still I get alot of squeaks. What is causing this? I don't hold my steering at lock position for more than a minute at any time. Please let me know. Thanks.

John

[Joe]

Originally Posted by Island_Tundra

Since we are on the topic of power steering, I have a question for all you gurus. Just recently, the power steering on my truck has started to make squeaking noises when I try to turn it without moving. If I am in motion, there is no noise but if I am at a stand still I get alot of squeaks. What is causing this? I don't hold my steering at lock position for more than a minute at any time. Please let me know. Thanks.

John

Good question, there could be a half dozen reasons but it's usually (9 out of 10 times) the bearings howling a little due to low fluid. If the fluid is topped off, check your belt for signs of wear. If none of the above, then it may be an early sign that "something" is in the very early stages of "failure". If that's the case it still could take years before it's bad enough that you want to put out a little money to repair/replace it.