The Hi-Lift technique DOES work, but only gets you 3-4 feet before you have to reset everything and pull again. If that 2-4 feet gets you more perched on a rock, that can suck.
Yes, a winch is an expensive proposition. Especially with the Tundra (mount, winch, battery, and front end spacers), but believe me- it's worth it.
The Hi-Lift technique DOES work, but only gets you 3-4 feet before you have to reset everything and pull again. If that 2-4 feet gets you more perched on a rock, that can suck.
Winch or HiLift doesn't matter. If my truck has to be dragged further onto a rock, then off, so be it. It sucks not having $$$. But, I love having a Tundra.
I went camping/fishing on May '24' weekend just south of Timmins. The roads/trails were pretty basic, but I was impressed with my Tundra nonetheless. I backed down 30 degree + incline on wet rocks/gravel/sand to load my aluminum boat and I never spun a tire...
I have also done some scouting for deer at my cottage and gone through some deeply rutted trails with mud and rock. I had no problems there either.
Now that I have new tires and a hilift, I plan on becoming more adventurous. If I go anywhere cool, I'll take pics. If I have to use the hilift to get out, I'll take pics of it in action, too.
I've done a fair bit of exploring a little north of Timmins, around Hearst, mostly in logging areas. Sometimes you see a nice smooth black trail. It looks like freshly poured cement, maybe even smoother. I've made the mistake of driving into it, big mistake, its fine black soil floating on water. I like exploring up there, you can drive for hours on those trails, unfortunately the beaver have a tendency to screw up the roads by flooding them. Long drive to get there.
I've done a little wheeling north of Hunstville and just outside of Haliburton. There used to be some good trails around Richmond Hill, but they are turning into housing.
Simcoe County forest is ok, more suited to ATVs, there's one you can see from the 400, I think its the 11th line, but there's no exit off the 400 for it. There's another place, take 400 north, exit innisfil beach road going west, then north on 5th side road, going past the casino, and you will see it on the left. You can also go right, and when you see the 400, just turn south...its quite challenging and if it has rained, be prepared to use that hilift.
The guy next door to me is selling his Jeep, its lifted and tires, etc. He just got a 1990 Range Rover, he'll be modding it soon. He usually goes to Haliburton forest, says its really challenging.
I have one and it is NOT your average Lowes/Home Depot come-along. Do a google search and you'll turn up myriad testimonials from hard core off roaders. They run about $150.
I've been researching getting some grade 80 chain (pretty pricey, but you get what you pay for, especially relating to safety, stretching/bending links vs. breaking) to go with my Hi-Lift jack for recovery purposes. After doing some searching here on T.S, I found this thread and the tool that Tomhole has.
I guess I'm kind of stuck (no pun intended ) on either getting the chain or getting the Power Puller. Basically this would compliment the winch I have on the front and my existing Hi-Lift. When it's all said and done, the price would not be too much different.
What would you guys do?
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My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. TRD cold air intake. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 Tundra SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. TRD cold air intake. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 Tundra SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Herb
Cable would be my 1st choice, easier to coil and stash.
Chain is heavy.
may need both
cable kinks and frays though.
Chain is good because you can hook it back on its self not possible on cable.
Go with the Power puller and a tree saver strap.
The power puller likes a 2 part line so its not going to be quick, but will be powerful.
My concerns on power puller are there is only 35' on the 2 ton model. 20' on the 3 ton unit. Tundra weighs 5000 or so. get it stuck in mud and suck force would keep ya glued in place.
With winch up front a highlift maybe all you need though. Its so versitle amazing what you can do with one.
mpp and hilift are imho better as secondary recovery links. yes, you can recover with both used as a winch, but personally i'd rather have a proper winch and synth line to do the heavy work, and an mpp or black rat for a secondary stabilization point, for instance to keep from rolling or sliding when winching up a steep grade like i saw this weekend...they had a winch on the rig, and a fat guy on the uphill side leaning on a tow strap wrapped around the roof line. personally i'd rather use a hand winch than a fat guy, cuz you never know when you'll have a fat guy handy.
that and the guy was (obviously) having a bit of trouble hanging on. i'd rather have a hand winch attached to a hard point than hang 4K#+ from a tow strap even if the guy on the end is the size of a boat anchor.
the rig didn't roll, but almost...if not for the guy with the strap he wouldve been at the bottom of the canyon.
the bottom line here is get a GOOD hand winch and some extension line, save the hilift for lifting, and get a winch when you can afford it. if it comes to it, a hilift and chain will help you stabilize a load, but it's harder to winch with it, and it moves around more than if you use the mpp or a black rat--it's just the way the three are designed.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm leaning towards the More Power Puller as an additional 'secondary' recovery link. If I'm in a situation that requires the Hi-lift to get my truck UP, then obviously I can't use it at the same time to move BACK. So, the MPP in conjunction with the Hi-Lift should do the trick. My winch is a permanent mount to the front of my truck, so if I need to go BACKWARD, (unless with some creative line rigging) I couldn't use it. I was aware of that limitation when I bought the front mount only.
Would it be possible to run my winch line back under my truck and to a secure mounting point and pull myself out backwards? I see two points that the winch line would touch. The lower front bumper valence and the leading edge of the front skid plate. I could place some heavy pieces of oak in between these two contact areas to allow the cable to move freely across the wood instead of chewing into my truck. Has anyone seen this done before?
__________________
My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. TRD cold air intake. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 Tundra SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Like Sean has posted there are times you need 2 systems. 1 to stabilze 1 to pull or things are going to tumble down the hill.
Tumble down hills. lol
A buddy of mine was screwing around in his Jeep in a sand pit. It spiralled downward, each level was about 8 to 12 feet below the next.
I had just jumped out to snap some picks of another friend, and I heard my buddy and his girlfriend yelling my name. I turned around and the front passenger tire was hanging in mid air, the Jeep was sitting on its frame, and the whole thing was starting to tip over.
I ran up the hill, grabbed the roll bar, stood on the side step, and leaned backward. His girlfriend slowly got out of the passenger seat, got into the back seat, then climbed out beside me. We both leaned back while he tried to reverse the Jeep, no luck.
The guys in the other Jeep pulled up, they too grabbed the roll bar and leaned, and the driver tried reversing again. The back tire on the passenger side started to spin, then a big hunk of hard dirt went flying, and the Jeep now had 2 wheels on the passenger side hanging in mid air.
I'll tell you its one of those occassions when you start to fear for your own safety and have to resist the temptation to just jump back and let it go (but the driver was still inside).
The other guy hooked his Jeep to the rear bumper on the driver's side, got a good angle going, pulled the tow strap until it was taut, and then slowly backed up as the stuck guy put his Jeep in reverse.
Its too bad I didn't have the presence of mind to take pics of the Jeep hanging.
Re: Chain or aircraft cable?
) on either getting the chain or getting the Power Puller. Basically this would compliment the winch I have on the front and my existing Hi-Lift. When it's all said and done, the price would not be too much different.
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