ok. another thing, i know that a steering box has to be mounted to the frame, what kind of truck did yalls come off of and are there any clearance issues with the headers or anything like that??
ok. another thing, i know that a steering box has to be mounted to the frame, what kind of truck did yalls come off of and are there any clearance issues with the headers or anything like that??
No clearence issues on mine. Used a steering box from an 87 toy 4x4. My suggestion would be to get one that is already rebuilt and tapped for hydro assist. Especially, if you plan on going with 38's. MarlinCrawler.com would be a good source for that.
You'll have to reinforce the frame and mount as far forward as possible. Issue with that is the core support gets in the way and you may have to do some trimming. IIRC - Tedd didn't have any issues with that because of his body lift.
Tedd and I are using 4" chevy lift springs in the front. Tedd got his from BDS and I got mine from Rancho. My parts list is located in my Photo Gallery.
In the rear I'm still running stock leafs with an AAL, 1.25" lift block and shackles. I have a set of chevy 4x4 springs (aka 63" Chevies) sitting in my garage. new front mounts and spring perch need to be welded on.
I am not big on the ride of a chevy lift front spring. I think stock chevy blazer rears (52") would work perfect. When I was starting to build up a K5 Blazer I research 52" or 56" rears up front (pirate4x4.com and ck5.com), they would give a softer ride than lift springs, roughly 4" of lift, and possibly allow for the axle to be moved forward.
I am going to have to start looking into measurements to confirm. I'd like to run rear chevies also so putting in spring hangers and a rear shackle flips is probably going to be the first order of buisness. Luckly I have a 74' Ford HP Dana44, Chevy 52" springs and pickup steering box so I can stop looking from front end parts and focus on the rear chevies.
__________________ Extreme ... Life's to Short Not Too Be
that might not be how wide they are after all. thats what the guy told me that i bought them from. btw i hate fender flares im leavin the stock ones on there cause i like the look of the tires stickin out
I like the look of the tires sticking out some, too. Just be ready for some flying water/sand. When I first lifted mine and put the BFGs on, my side panels were getting sandblasted pretty good when it rained. I got so tired of the high-spinning water, especially on turns, that I went ahead and got the wider fender flares. Now that I have them, I like the look even more that without.
__________________ 2003 Tundra SR5 4WD Access Cab Desert Sand Mica Performance: Bassani cat-back exhaust, K&N FIPK, JBA Headers & Y-Pipe, Goodridge braided brake lines Working mods: Tough Country front bumper, Camburg UCAs, Daystar 1" spacer & Sway-away 2.5" front coilovers & diff. drop spacers, Offroad Solutions manual hub kit, Kartek CV boots, Deaver 10 packs, BFG AT 285/75R16s on ProComp black alloy 16x8 rims, Rhino Liner, tool box, KC Slimlights, Form Fit bug deflector, Donnelly mirror, Muth Signal mirrors, "Tundra" HD floormats, Hi-Lift, Skid Row front, middle & rear skid plates, Custom rock sliders, Custom rear bumper & swing-out tire carrier, Icom 208H, CB, Backstopper backup sensors, auxiliary backup lights, Optima Red & Optima Yellow, Painless battery isolator, Champion 10K winch, Viair 400C, 4 gallon air tank, ARB Lockers front & rear, greasable bolts & sleeves for the Deaver leaf springs, Engle MT45. Appearance & Comfort mods: Aftermarket Leather, desert sand mirror covers, dark grey fender flares, map light mod, de-badged all emblems, all black grille. Future: Auxiliary fuel tank, replace tailgate w/ sand ladders
you dont need a 4wd shop, you only need someone who is very, very good with a welder, and a lot of time on your own hands to plan parts placement. the trouble might be convincing them that you're not crazy, also bringing them to the project vs bringing the project to them...thats the advantage of a 4wd shop, they plan on having your stuff sitting there til its done. if you can find mobile welding for a decent price, or know a buddy with competent welds, or can find someone on a welding board who will do the work, you can do everything else yourself (grinding, cutting, fitment, tacking, etc) and then call the welder when it's time to do more than tack. youll save a bundle on labor and get more experience yourself.
dont think of it as a lift. it isn't a lift at all...even though undoubtedly the front end will come up depending on how you work spring placement. if it works out properly, when it's fully compressed it wont be any different as far as compression height than a stock truck...hopefully. build it as low as you can without hitting the engine with the axle or steering components, it will handle better on and off road.
i definatly dont want it sittin anywhere near stock. i found a guy who does custom fab as a side job. $4500 for the sas, rear end install, gears, and all the parts needed(shocks, shock hoops, springs). i already spent $1800 on the axles and i will spend another $1550 on the rims and tires. so about $7850 give or take a little.
i definatly dont want it sittin anywhere near stock. i found a guy who does custom fab as a side job. $4500 for the sas, rear end install, gears, and all the parts needed(shocks, shock hoops, springs). i already spent $1800 on the axles and i will spend another $1550 on the rims and tires. so about $7850 give or take a little.
Don't forget about the small stuff. Nut's bolts, fluids, etc. Although it doesn't seem that much up front, they add up and makes a big difference on the parts/price list.
Re: SAS on 02 tundra
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