Cool cool...I think a bunch of us are waiting to see the rebuild .
Why lift the rear back up? can you drop the front at all, to match? 35"-36" should fit on your setup, plus there are some great narrow 35s around. Since it sounds like you do mud, what about a wide 35" from Pit Bull or somewhere for playing and a set of whatevers for the street?
Cool cool...I think a bunch of us are waiting to see the rebuild .
Why lift the rear back up? can you drop the front at all, to match? 35"-36" should fit on your setup, plus there are some great narrow 35s around. Since it sounds like you do mud, what about a wide 35" from Pit Bull or somewhere for playing and a set of whatevers for the street?
no rebuild for me, i have since moved on from that
im not going to bother lowering the front, becuase then i will have issues with the front d-shaft hitting the trans crossmember and steering problems and some other stuff. it would be so much easier to just throw in a 1" block and call it a day. i dont really want to go to a smaller tire, just one that is better on road. i might not even lift the rear end back up, i may just keep it sittin how it is. i really want and need some lockers
well i have been having some bad sounds coming from under the truck, and i originally thought it was the np205. but after listening closely, i realized that it was coming from the front end, so then i assumed that the expensive @$$ unit bearings were going out. well come to find out, it was my stupid track bar. this thing has been causing so many problems. the mount on the axle was cracked almost all the way around, so i took the track bar off and no more sound. im still working on getting a marlin crawler dual case installed and maybe a late tacoma manual t-case. but first, warn hubs will be here soon.
well the warn hubs are here but they wont be installed for another couple of weeks, marlin crawler cant answer their phones or reply back to my e-mails, so i e-mailed Jim at inchworm. I got a reply back yesterday saying that he has what i want in stock and can have it shipped out in just a few days. not to mention, their crawl boxes are on sale!!!
well the warn hubs are here but they wont be installed for another couple of weeks, marlin crawler cant answer their phones or reply back to my e-mails, so i e-mailed Jim at inchworm. I got a reply back yesterday saying that he has what i want in stock and can have it shipped out in just a few days. not to mention, their crawl boxes are on sale!!!
You're gonna have an excellent truck when you're done . Ever get around to trimming the wheel wells, so you can drop the front?
A tip on the Warn hubs...take them apart and grease everything. If yours are like mine, there are no bearings, just a bronze self-lubricating bushing with a bit of play to it. I used Green Grease, particularly for where you wheel I'd highly recommend the same . Give everything a thin coating, moisture can get in there if the seals are compromised and rust the splines in the locking mechanism, and parts of the rotating assembly. They don't come coated, black CV grease is good but the green stuff is far better.
Once the cap is off and the inner accordion spring out, there will probably be a small wire clip holding the locking slug in...push slug down, remove wire clip, remove slug.
On the back, there's a circlip holding the rotating assembly in the bushing. It comes out through the front of the hub body.
Oh yeah...I know you were talking MTs but have you looked at the SX?
You're gonna have an excellent truck when you're done . Ever get around to trimming the wheel wells, so you can drop the front?
A tip on the Warn hubs...take them apart and grease everything. If yours are like mine, there are no bearings, just a bronze self-lubricating bushing with a bit of play to it. I used Green Grease, particularly for where you wheel I'd highly recommend the same . Give everything a thin coating, moisture can get in there if the seals are compromised and rust the splines in the locking mechanism, and parts of the rotating assembly. They don't come coated, black CV grease is good but the green stuff is far better.
Once the cap is off and the inner accordion spring out, there will probably be a small wire clip holding the locking slug in...push slug down, remove wire clip, remove slug.
On the back, there's a circlip holding the rotating assembly in the bushing. It comes out through the front of the hub body.
Oh yeah...I know you were talking MTs but have you looked at the SX?
-Sean
thanks for the tip about greasing the warn hubs, i will do that! and i guess you are talkin about the super swamper SX? no, i have never looked at them, im trying to avoid anything with the super swamper name right now..
well the warn hubs are here but they wont be installed for another couple of weeks, marlin crawler cant answer their phones or reply back to my e-mails, so i e-mailed Jim at inchworm. I got a reply back yesterday saying that he has what i want in stock and can have it shipped out in just a few days. not to mention, their crawl boxes are on sale!!!
Excellent! Jim's a great guy! I'm fortunate that his shop is only about an hour from my house. His guys initially set up my 4.88 gears and most recently did my rear ARB locker. I wish I could do a dual transfer case in my truck, but it's just not in the cards.
Good luck with your next phase.
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My daily driver - 2008 Vios 'S' sedan. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs. Megan Racing header.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with trans temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedo Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer system with a 9.5ti winch running Amsteel Blue winch line. Budbuilt traction bar. Staun tyre deflators. Spitz Lift portable crane. Marlin Crawler 1.5" wheel spacers. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Update: Just got off the phone with Inchworm and the crawl box is ordered! they will be closed until the 2nd of January so it wont be shipped out until then. but i will do the install on this thread so stay tuned!
Update: Just got off the phone with Inchworm and the crawl box is ordered! they will be closed until the 2nd of January so it wont be shipped out until then. but i will do the install on this thread so stay tuned!
How's the motor after breathing in some muddy H2O???
haha i thought to myself as i read your last post that you might be thinkin it was the truck, but no. i try to avoid deep water with the truck, because water hides pleasant surprises.
I forgot to add this forever ago, but i finally welded in a front crossmember, complete with Advance Auto Parts Tow Hooks! i still need to do some reinforcing with a few gussets and what not, so that will probably happen when or if i remove the body lift with the bumper will be off. but they have been used, and yes they held up great! so great that a 3" 30,000 pound strap snapped when i was hooked up to a F-250 on 44's! here are a couple of pics from the build/install.
so the other night at about 1 a.m. i was stranded because my truck wouldn't start, and i was hoping that it wasn't the starter. it ended up being the terminals that connect to the battery. somehow they just went bad, and besides, the stock ones are thin and wimpy, so i went to advance auto parts and picked up some bigger and better ones.
Re: SAS on 02 tundra
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. Ever get around to trimming the wheel wells, so you can drop the front?
. Give everything a thin coating, moisture can get in there if the seals are compromised and rust the splines in the locking mechanism, and parts of the rotating assembly. They don't come coated, black CV grease is good but the green stuff is far better.
oops!
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