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Off-RoadingDiscussions specifically related to modifying and driving your Toyota truck/SUV off the pavement, including trip reports.
This is a discussion thread titled "SAS on 02 tundra", within the Off-Roading forum, part of the General Forums category.
i just purchased both front and rear axles off of a 2001 f250, and soon i am having it straight axled on 38s. can anyone tell me how much it cost them to do the same thing on their truck, and any more info that i need to know. thanks
check out www.teddnet.com where all the SAS tundra guys have posted alot of their info and help
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 87 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
i have been to this website many times before, but is there anyone else that know how much this costs???
Send a PM to Dyogim, Joe, JJC, flyin6 as well as TMS2U and ask them as they are the ones on here that have been through the process.
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 87 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
It can range from $5K to $15K. Depends on the set-up, what parts you use and how much of the work you do yourself. Leaf spring set-up, is cheaper, coil over will be a lot more $$$.
Best thing to do would be to get a parts list together with the best prices you can find. Next determine what you do yourself and what a shop will need to do and get their prices. You'll also need to add the cost of all the nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers needed (grade 8 stuff) and include all the fluids.
I'm assuming you are using a D60 for the front, are you planning on changing the inner C's to kingpin (stronger) or staying with ball joints?
Another big question is how much are you willing to spend?
i am doing a leaf spring setup, i dont need anything too serious because this truck will be mostly a road warrior. only weekend trips to the mud or trails will be the only thing that it will see.
Go to pirate4x4.com and LURK. DO NOT ask these questions there, lurk and search...use google, or if you're really serious about it, spend 20 bucks so you can easily search. If you ask there and mention "road warrior" they will toss you out in a hurry.
Just a guess, but a 2001 F250, isn't that a d44/9"?
id love to be on your website. but it will be a month or two so ill get back to you on that one. another question, should 4.56 gears be good fo 38s and i dont plan on cuttin the axles down at all, i think the wms on the new axles is about 74 inches. do you think the wider stance will look good???
id love to be on your website. but it will be a month or two so ill get back to you on that one. another question, should 4.56 gears be good fo 38s and i dont plan on cuttin the axles down at all, i think the wms on the new axles is about 74 inches. do you think the wider stance will look good???
Go with 4.88's at least. 74" that's one wide mofo. You'll probably want to go with wheels with a lot of backspacing or cut them down.
In any case, I'm thinking of building a Dana 60 this year.
4.88 should feel like stock with 37s. consider 5.13 or something...and before anyone sez thats a weak ratio, there are a lot of factors that contribute to gear strength. look at getting a complete third member from truehi9.com, mike qualley is a great guy and just redesigned the 5.13 gearsets for equivalent strength to the other ratios. even the 5.13 is pirate-proof now, and it'll give you a little extra kick to get the wheels turning.
there is no way your axles are 74" wms. they're probably 69f/67r, or 69/69, or 67/66, unless they were modified and extended. the widest production "normal" axle is at 69.5", my custom rear is coming at 72" wms and i'll be running a lot of backspacing...like 5-6".
also, once you put a wide tire on there, you're pushing 90" from outside to outside of the tire...you'll about need a shoehorn around town and on the trail. if you run a standard hummer rim, you can get a ton of backspacing but might have trouble finding steering arms for a d44 (cuz i bet its a d44) that will work with 7" backspacing. i know theyre available for d60 knuckles, it might be worth a swap to dedenbears like jjc's front setup if you decide you need the track width narrower.
yeah...i've been doing a lot of web wheeling lately...i'm doing what youre doing and it's all going in autocad first for a reality check since i'm also dovetailing the rear about 10" on a side, and i gotta give a nod to street legality regarding how far out the tires sit beyond the glass. at 74" with a tire ~14" wide, you'll be something like 3-4" beyond the trd flares, consider glass to cover them instead, also you wont be able to stuff a 38 in the stock wheel well anyway. largest that will fit is a 35.
for reference iirc tundra wms is 67" front/66" rear.
that might not be how wide they are after all. thats what the guy told me that i bought them from. btw i hate fender flares im leavin the stock ones on there cause i like the look of the tires stickin out
Tedd and I are using 4" chevy lift springs in the front. Tedd got his from BDS and I got mine from Rancho. My parts list is located in my Photo Gallery.
In the rear I'm still running stock leafs with an AAL, 1.25" lift block and shackles. I have a set of chevy 4x4 springs (aka 63" Chevies) sitting in my garage. new front mounts and spring perch need to be welded on.
SAS on 02 tundra
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