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Truck under destruction...

89K views 259 replies 31 participants last post by  DevinSixtySeven 
#1 ·
My truck has a big fat as5, as some of you may have noticed from this and other pictures. The truck is going on a diet, and since they sell Bed-B-Gone at Autozone by the case now, I'm looking for some feedback before starting the weight loss program.

All the liquid weight is centered behind the cab, and assume it won't slosh much...the tanks will be baffled. Nothing sits higher than 14" above the floor of the stock bed, and the bedcage should allow it to be at least two inches lower since the bed sits an inch or two above the frame rail, more at the front of the bed.

The blue (water tank) and red (fuel cans) chunks will be changed to a pair of equally sized boxes, with water at the front and ideally lower (denser). 30g will fit in the aux fuel tank and the water tank, they'll take up slightly less room to the rear than in the drawing since fuel will be in a single box rather than six separate boxes--width will be about the same as in the current drawing. It'll cut the weight, too...no need for six brackets. The aux fuel tank will fill from the left, water from the right. Aux fuel gets to the main tank via splice to the stock vent line and electric pump with dead/closed anti-siphon valve. Backup is a Super Siphon. The electric pump will allow me to drive something like 650 miles until the tank is empty, or the bladder is full, whichever comes first.

Orange is recovery ladders. I'll trim them to fit the length if it looks like they'll hit the tanks. They'll ride at the bottom of the bedcage (under the spare tire), in a rail to allow easy loading and access--about where the gap is now between the frame and the bottom of the bed. They're 2" thick.

The yellow boxes are the approximate size of the boxes I'll make to house a pair of Odyssey batteries. Vertically, they fit between the top and bottom of the frame rail. That's as close to the rear axle as they fit without interfering with the shocks and whatnot.

The only things with CG behind the axle will be the batteries (~100#), spare tire (no more than 150#, hopefully more like 120#), and recovery ladders (~70#?). None of those except the spare will be more than 20" behind the rear axle (the tires are 40x14...I might not run that large, but I know I'll have the space).

The green box, believe it or not, is a rooftop tent. Closed, it's 11.5" deep and weighs about 110#. It fits between the bed rails, a couple inches down (at 15" above stock bed floor, possibly less), so I'll be able to see out the back and the CG of the tent should be no more than 21" above the floor of the stock bed. That's only 30# more, but a good half a foot lower CG than my CanBack (IIRC from the tape measure mob scene). If I put a pivot at the front and a subframe under the tent, it could be raised like a tonneau cover with the help of a pair of gas assist tubes and a simple drop-down brace to hold it steady while it's raised.

I'll be able to fit a pair of utility boxes at the front corners of the bed, under the glass, same at the rear of the bed...aluminum or Nidacore or something, or just a couple of ammo cans bolted to the cage.

If the cage wraps around the end above and below the spare tire, it'll provide rigidity side to side as well as fore and aft, and a simple drop gate can hold the short recovery ladders and allow access to the long ladders and the spare tire. What do you guys think about tying it to a cab cage later? I think it can be done, bolting through the rear of the cab like a sandwich the way my sliders are attached to the frame ("door car" roll cages are footed this way), since the cage will always be in compression at the top the bolts will only need to hold friction to keep the cage and body from twisting. If it's braced properly, the front of the bedcage will provide a roll bar (not that I ever *plan* on rolling) as well as rigidity through the bed.

Right now, the rear of the truck is too wide, too heavy (when it's all loaded), too high, screens too much to the side, and when the truck is twisted up to the stops I can't close the doors properly :p. I think this cage will solve all those problems.

Opinions? What do you guys think of the layout? I'll do a new drawing with the two tanks instead of all the gas cans, and a vertical drawing as well as a cage sketch, later.
 

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#3 ·
Re: Time for a bedcage with a dovetail.

Any pics of the progress.

This will look pretty shweet! Will you have to integrate removable mudflaps when driving on the pavement or does your state not require them?
 
#4 ·
Re: Time for a bedcage with a dovetail.

No progress yet, too many weekend and day trips to take any measurements, and I've been learning to use the welder. Chaos, carnage and measurements start Monday...but the cage probably won't be anything more than designed and laid out by midsummer. Want to get it right the first time.

Probably will have to have some sort of booty fab mudflap to satisfy the suburban ticket squad.
 
#5 ·
Rear Axle Build

It's rear-axle thirty.

WMS is 69", with a pair of adapters to bump it to 72". I'll probably run it at 69" til the front axle comes along.

Center is a 4.88 Hi9 with a 35 spline ARB and equal length 4130 (IIRC) shafts...pinion offset is to the right, like stock, but a hair more.

Hubs are standard 60 front.

Each disc has two calipers, service (hydro) and ebrake (mech).

I'll be doing the brake lines and shock mounts myself, and plan to add the brackets for the Hellwig to the axle (if it fits around the diff).

Pics when my roommate gets back with the digital camera :p.

-Sean
 
#6 ·
Re: Time for something new.

It's rear-axle thirty.

WMS is 69", with a pair of adapters to bump it to 72". I'll probably run it at 69" til the front axle comes along.

Center is a 4.88 Hi9 with a 35 spline ARB and equal length 4130 (IIRC) shafts...pinion offset is to the right, like stock, but a hair more.

Hubs are standard 60 front.

Each disc has two calipers, service (hydro) and ebrake (mech).

I'll be doing the brake lines and shock mounts myself, and plan to add the brackets for the Hellwig to the axle (if it fits around the diff).

Pics when my roommate gets back with the digital camera :p.

-Sean

Damn, and I thought I was wide :devil: ! If you ever change from such high backspacing on your wheels your gonna be knocking people off the road :D !

My WMS-WMS is currently at 69-9/16" up front and 68" in the rear with 3.75" B.S. on my new wheels, so I reduced an 1-1/2" of width overall changing from the 3" B.S. that the Stazworks had. Nothing rubs in any circumstance so I will most likely stick here, but I would love to get it slightly more narrow for these tight trails so I can avoid climbing any trees (for the record, this was 100% not on purpose, I believe in and support "treading lightly" strongly and this little screw up took out my upper door frame, door, and mirror.....but I managed to massage them all back into working order....sort of :rolleyes:! Luckily, the tree didn't even get a scrape on it and instead just stood there laughing at my dumb a$$ :devil: !!!!!

 
#7 ·
Re: Time for something new.

4.5"bs @ 72" = 3.5" @ 70". It's to keep the scrub radius down with a matching front axle, and the critical pieces hidden...eventually I plan on 4.75" backspacing for lightweight road stuff, and that or 5" for trail tires. It's even possible to get stock H1 rims on a D60, but that's not the plan. The width will also keep the tires off the frame, fenders, hood, bumper...

...Saw a couple full-width rigs go through Pritchett the other day, too. 4.5" @ 72 is wide, but there aren't a lot of trees on the trails around here ;).

What are you gonna do with those Stazworks wheels, anyway? Aren't they 17x9? If you make it this way and still have them handy, I have a stack of already bedded 37" red labels you're welcome to mount up and give a shot with the Stazworks. I won't be messing with them until at least I get the rear axle in place and check the clearance on the IFS with 37s...the Krawlers are even larger than the Bajas. If your old wheels were deeper, I'd ask if you were selling them :p.
 
#8 ·
Re: Time for something new.

Air line routed, diff mounted and filled. Spindles mounted and axles inserted for just for grins.

Should be ready for fitting tomorrow even tho I won't get to it for a couple weeks at least.

Dressed weight should be between 350-400#.
 

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#9 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

Spindles, two spacers, two caliper brackets, six grade 8 7/16 studs, find thread, with stainless (grade 5) nylocks...torque spec is 50ft# dry, -10% lubricated.

Rotors are just under 12" diameter.
 

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#10 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

What are you doing with the old axle?
-Mack
 
#11 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

What are you doing with the old axle?
-Mack
sold to the highest bidder, preferably pick-up or delivery rather than ship. a stock tundra axle with 135K miles isn't worth much, even if it's in good shape.
 
#12 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

Does the new pumpkin have a locker?
 
#14 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

Brake lines next! Should be getting this hung in the next few weeks.
It is not sitting on the concrete, there are two small jack stands under there...
 

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#16 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

Bender arrives in a couple weeks, got a few projects here and there :devil:.

There's much to do before I break out the can of IFS-B-Gone...I'll be running the stock length arms and uniballs for a couple years out I'm sure.
 
#19 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

DAAAAMMN. Dude I wish I was that far with my truck. It just cost way to much for me right now. The one thing I'm in desperate need of right now is some CVs. Anyone here who's converting wanna give up some of their CVs:eek:. I know, if I convert now I won't have to worry about cv. Just the cost man.
 
#20 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

Thanks for the kind words. Brian @ FRORF went waaaay beyond "customer service" in helping me sort it all out, as did Mike at Hi9...I asked for a pile of parts, they talked me over the pitfalls, and I only had to pull it all apart a few times :rolleyes:.

Once the leaf spring and swaybar perches are welded on (yeah I'm finally gonna run the Hellwig) I'm gonna do a diaper for the 3rd, to protect it and the air line, since the air line is about the only vulnerable part down there now.

The bender showed up yesterday :devil:. I'm gonna be bouncing off the ceiling waiting for the die.
 
#21 ·
Re: Time for a bedcage with a dovetail.

Bet y'all thought I wasn't really gonna do it :devil:.

Bed's off right now, I'm getting the bumper properly secured, getting measurements and whatnot, and setting up the bender. First thing will be mocking up the dovetail angle, once the glass is hung on some practice bends I'll feel better about driving it around, and I don't have to put the bed back on :D:tu:.

Sorry no pics yet. I get the garage when my roommate's gone, but he also takes the digital camera...
 
#22 ·
Axle is under the truck. Made a cradle to move it around , now it's a piece of cake...it bolts to the floor jack, really stable. All I need to do is adjust it side to side, and then mess with the pinion angle...should be really easy to get the angle, the pinion is huge and a magnetic angle finder fits perfect on there.

Also found my stock slip joint is in good shape, just a lot of corrosion on there. I think the zerks are trashed, but at least it's easy to grease right now :p.

The bed cage is sitting under the truck at the moment ;)...it's visible between the axle and the crossbar on the axle cradle--100' of 1.75OD HREW to play with (not just for the truck). Axle comes first...but I'm gonna try awful hard in the next couple weeks to NOT have to put the stock bed back on.

For sale soon, stock Tundra rear axle, tailgate and inner bed already cut for fiberglass :p...dunno if I'm really gonna ditch the bed completely just yet, it's nice to haul stuff around. The axle however is gonna go, if you guys know anybody looking for a 66" wms rear Toyota axle it'll be ready in the next couple weeks.

Larger pics in my main gallery.
 

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#24 ·
Re: Rear Axle Build

Bender arrives in a couple weeks, got a few projects here and there :devil:.

There's much to do before I break out the can of IFS-B-Gone...I'll be running the stock length arms and uniballs for a couple years out I'm sure.

Hey if you don't mind, can I get the Tie-rod ends from you rold IFS. My outter tie rods are good its just the inners that mount onto the rack itsef. Those things are veeeerrrrrry week. Then again, if you want to get rid of the rack and pinion let me know how much you want for it. Hopefully I can afford it. Thanks man.

John
 
#25 ·
You realize that's a rear axle, right :devil:

Got the pinion angle set, perches tacked this evening, and the brake lines sorted out...I can't believe how much banjo fittings and fasteners cost. The service calipers are single piston, I don't remember the diameter offhand but I think they're 2-1/4". The e-brake lines are gonna be the Lokar EC80FU, I think actually those are the same ones Jon used. They're also the lines Revolution generally specs for their Mr. Parker calipers.

...I'm not planning on putting the old axle back under the truck. I think I can get this finished and running in the next two weeks.
 

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