2000 echo check engine light - Page 3

elev8 · #31 (**permalink**) 11-07-2006, 10:50 PM

Hey yall, rookie to this board

Anyways, I have been looking around for a solution to my P0171 code on my 2000 Echo. I cleaned the MAF sensor with a q-tip and electronic cleaner (as suggested

). I also replaced the air filter. I then erased the code and drove around for about four hours. To my surprise, bam, it came back up again. N E other advice? I would hate to go to the dealer and give up my left arm. Anything would help. Thanks alot.

mustang67408 · #32 (**permalink**) 11-07-2006, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elev8

Hey yall, rookie to this board

Anyways, I have been looking around for a solution to my P0171 code on my 2000 Echo. I cleaned the MAF sensor with a q-tip and electronic cleaner (as suggested

). I also replaced the air filter. I then erased the code and drove around for about four hours. To my surprise, bam, it came back up again. N E other advice? I would hate to go to the dealer and give up my left arm. Anything would help. Thanks alot.

Are you sure it is a P0171 this time?
Look for a vacuum leak or Did you accidentally fill up with E-85 fuel?
Make sure the 2 hoses that go to the air cleaner lid and the VSV are properly connected or you will suck RAW fuel or fumes, this will set a P0171 lean code.

elev8 · #33 (**permalink**) 11-07-2006, 11:28 PM

Thanks for the quick response mustang...You know, I think I'll check the vacuum hoses again...I might of missed something there. However, it is a P0171 code. When I cleaned the sensor it looked ok, just a bit dirty but nothing major. Thanks again.

tobiasgriffith · #34 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 02:06 PM

Hello,

If you recall, I posted back in August with a check engine light problem and found your website, followed the directions, cleaned the MAF sensor, reset the EFI fuse and after about 2 weeks, it seemed that the engine reset itself and everything has been fine since.

Over the past month, I've realized that sometimes when I drive over 60
MPH, the check engine light came back on, however, the car still ran just fine and there was no stalling like before. By the time I went to get the codes checked the light went off again.

The other day I was driving to work and the light popped on again and so I stopped at Auto Zone and got a P0171 System too lean (bank 1) code. I pulled the fuse to reset it and was going to wait until I got home to check and possibly re-clean the MAF sensor, however, when I left work last night, the car was stalling like NEVER before. It would literally almost die and then when I got it going it seemed like it took forever to shift into the next gear (even though I have an automatic). It seemed clogged up or something. I haven't been using 85 fuel for months and am worried it might be the catalytic converter......

10 miles later when exiting the freeway, everything was back to normal and the stalling stopped completely. So far today, there has been no stalling either.
Can you tell me what to do next?

mustang67408 · #35 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:59 PM

1: make sure the spark plugs are not cracked or damaged (USE NGK or DENSO) DONT NOT USE BOSCH or DELCO or AUTOLITE

2: Clean or replace MAF

3: Make sure all vac lines are installed properly

4: check fuel pressure and take fuel sample to check for contaminated fuel

These are just guesses , as I dont have any SCAN TOOL info to go on when the car is acting up.

Claraine · #36 (**permalink**) 03-26-2007, 05:03 PM

Hi!

I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo. I got it used at about 65,000 miles last year. Within a few months, the check engine light came on, and since I was completely broke at the time, I couldn't do anything about it but do my normal oil changes. I even got a tune up for it which cost me a grueling $100! And it didn't really help the problem in which my car would be really sluggish- basically the same problems described from other posts w/ a P0171 code. I later took it to Auto Zone, and they pulled up the P0171 code. After reading these posts, I decided to clean the MAF sensor, but even after doing so, even though it drove better, it was still acting up a little. So then, I just bought a new one and replaced the sensor. After that, the car ran 100% better- it picked up speed easily. However, now, a month later, the check engine light came on again- and it seems to be running fine... but now, I just have no idea what to do! I see that in previous posts, they ask if others were using 85 gas? What is 85 gas? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

- Claraine

mustang67408 · #37 (**permalink**) 03-26-2007, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Claraine

Hi!

I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo. I got it used at about 65,000 miles last year. Within a few months, the check engine light came on, and since I was completely broke at the time, I couldn't do anything about it but do my normal oil changes. I even got a tune up for it which cost me a grueling $100! And it didn't really help the problem in which my car would be really sluggish- basically the same problems described from other posts w/ a P0171 code. I later took it to Auto Zone, and they pulled up the P0171 code. After reading these posts, I decided to clean the MAF sensor, but even after doing so, even though it drove better, it was still acting up a little. So then, I just bought a new one and replaced the sensor. After that, the car ran 100% better- it picked up speed easily. However, now, a month later, the check engine light came on again- and it seems to be running fine... but now, I just have no idea what to do! I see that in previous posts, they ask if others were using 85 gas? What is 85 gas? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

- Claraine

Go back to Auto Zone and have them read the codes again and see what it is, we can then proceed from there.
In the meantime
1 : make sure the spark plugs are not cracked or damaged (USE NGK or DENSO) DONT NOT USE BOSCH or DELCO or AUTOLITE

2: Clean or replace MAF (ALREADY NEW = OK ) Just make sure there is no debris on it.

3: Make sure all vac lines are installed properly, especially on the air cleaner housing.

4: report code here for further advise

Claraine · #38 (**permalink**) 03-26-2007, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustang67408

Go back to Auto Zone and have them read the codes again and see what it is, we can then proceed from there.
In the meantime
1 : make sure the spark plugs are not cracked or damaged (USE NGK or DENSO) DONT NOT USE BOSCH or DELCO or AUTOLITE

2: Clean or replace MAF (ALREADY NEW = OK ) Just make sure there is no debris on it.

3: Make sure all vac lines are installed properly, especially on the air cleaner housing.

4: report code here for further advise

Hi Mustang67408-

While I haven't been able to go to Auto Zone yet, I actually just got off the phone w/ the mechanic who did my tune up b/c I knew that they replaced my spark plugs. They told me that they used AUTOLITE (eek!). So, could that be a serious problem? What is difference between NGK/DENSO and BOSCH, DELCO, or AUTOLITE? I'm not at all a car saavy person- I would think that those mechanics knew what they were doing!

-Claraine

mustang67408 · #39 (**permalink**) 03-26-2007, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Claraine

Hi Mustang67408-

While I haven't been able to go to Auto Zone yet, I actually just got off the phone w/ the mechanic who did my tune up b/c I knew that they replaced my spark plugs. They told me that they used AUTOLITE (eek!). So, could that be a serious problem? What is difference between NGK/DENSO and BOSCH, DELCO, or AUTOLITE? I'm not at all a car saavy person- I would think that those mechanics knew what they were doing!

-Claraine

Toyota has a patent on their spark plug heat ranges. NGK and Denso are the only ones that will match it exactly.
I have had problems for years with Bosche (a GERMAN PLUG) and most (AMERICAN plugs) in JAPANESE vehicles.
This is just my opinion from many years of experience on toyotas. (23 yrs to be exact).
Before you can condem the plugs, you need a CODE. That will tell you which direction to go. They may be fine, but after finding the code, they would be one of the first things i replaced. I believe in 100% factory parts.
Many people use NON TOYOTA brand plugs and they work

, I PREFER NOT TO as they do run better with factory parts. Most of those plugs are LESS EXPENSIVE and thats why people tend to use them. They just dont know where to look for Toyota parts at reasonable prices. Those Bosche .99 cent plugs are at that price for a reason.

There are alot of good mechanics out there, but are they TOYOTA trained?, do they know the little inside secrets and flaws about toyotas?
Some might, but most do not.
It is alot of work to learn everthing about 1 brand. I am still trying to learn about TOYOTAS and try to learn something new everyday.
I can't imagine how independants can try to learn about many different car brands.

Like I said get a code first, the plugs may be ok (for now).
Then we can try to diagnose it from there.

If you don't like my answers it is ok, I understand

Diagnosis over the internet is very challenging.
Maybe someone else will be able to help that has had a similar problem.
Let us know the code

toan30 · #40 (**permalink**) 03-27-2007, 09:28 AM

I couldnt agree more about the spark plugs. I changed the plugs on my 2000 Echo at around 60K and installed Bosch platinum. The car ran like it had liquified rat turd in the tank. The dealer told me about the Denso Iridium plugs the car had originally and that they would go 120000 miles. I went back to the dealer and 80 bucks later had a new set of factory plugs and all was well. I now use nothing but factory original parts in my vehicles and it is well worth it. Also has anyone else had an issue with a rear main leaking. Mine was changed at 70K along with the left drive shaft cause the dealer ruined it. This is the only real repair done in its entire life. Thanks.

B.T.W With 145000 miles this car still runs like new. I absolutely will not give this car up until it dies which may be never at this rate.

Proost · #41 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 09:37 AM

Mustang67408 - I have to tell you, you're a hell of a great person to spend the time to help us do-it-yourself folks. Thanks a heck of a lot!

Since I posted last Sep re: a P0505 code I had. Seems it's pretty common. Had to hold the throttle open when idling. I exposed the throttle body and cleaned it pretty thoroughly with 3M throttle body cleaner and afterwards, the Idle Control worked a hell of a lot better. However, since then (and I've only driven it about 40miles since) it starts and idles up okay - idle control up here in chilly Maine is definitely working again. But after driving home from work about 7 miles, engine's warms and the idle is somewhat higher and hunts a little. Light's still on but I haven't tried resetting and based on what I'm experiencing, bet it'll come on again.

Any thoughts on the hunting issue? I'm thinking either:

(1) I didn't clean the TB as good as I could have because cleaning obviously did something. About a year ago, I had the air filter replaced during an oil change and the bubbas didn't connect the bonnet back on correctly. So essentially, I was sucking in raw air and dirt. If so, how tough is it to remove and clean?
(2) The ECU is trying to relearn after the cleaning.
(3) It really is a bad Idle Control Sensor.

Seems weird that it's hunting after it's warmed up. I've got your cip0505.pdf file but thought I'd ask if you had any idea before I dig further.

Thanks again Mustang. Super, super resource for info.

Proost

mustang67408 · #42 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Proost

Mustang67408 - I have to tell you, you're a hell of a great person to spend the time to help us do-it-yourself folks. Thanks a heck of a lot!

Since I posted last Sep re: a P0505 code I had. Seems it's pretty common. Had to hold the throttle open when idling. I exposed the throttle body and cleaned it pretty thoroughly with 3M throttle body cleaner and afterwards, the Idle Control worked a hell of a lot better. However, since then (and I've only driven it about 40miles since) it starts and idles up okay - idle control up here in chilly Maine is definitely working again. But after driving home from work about 7 miles, engine's warms and the idle is somewhat higher and hunts a little. Light's still on but I haven't tried resetting and based on what I'm experiencing, bet it'll come on again.

Any thoughts on the hunting issue? I'm thinking either:

(1) I didn't clean the TB as good as I could have because cleaning obviously did something. About a year ago, I had the air filter replaced during an oil change and the bubbas didn't connect the bonnet back on correctly. So essentially, I was sucking in raw air and dirt. If so, how tough is it to remove and clean? Yes, this is bad
(2) The ECU is trying to relearn after the cleaning. Clear light first
(3) It really is a bad Idle Control Sensor. Probably

Seems weird that it's hunting after it's warmed up. I've got your cip0505.pdf file but thought I'd ask if you had any idea before I dig further.

Thanks again Mustang. Super, super resource for info.

Proost

Thanks for the

, I do what i can with what I have to work with. Internet DIAGNOSIS is very tricky.

I have attached a few more PDF's for you to remove the TB and inspect the IAC motor and to test it.
The computer wont try to relearn until you reset the light, your then telling it everything is ok and to start learning and thinking again, right now it is in a default mode.
I would do the tests that I have attched and see what you come up with.
The IAC is known for going bad and either the vehicle wont idle or will hunt for an idle because it is stuck in a certain position and the ecu can't rotate the mechanism inside the IAC because it is stuck or just plain ole broke. I would also make sure you have power (black/yellow wire) at the IAC connector, make sure you have a ground (brown wire), and if you have access to an oscilloscope you can check to see if the ECU is trying to control the IAC valve by tapping into the (black/red wire). That wire should have a wave pattern. It is a DUTY CYLCE, meaning it opens and closes that valve as needed to maintain a proper idle speed. Its basically a controlled vacuum leak.
Hope this helps

Proost · #43 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 10:41 AM

Thanks Mustang - I'm on it and will post my results. Nice that the weather up here is starting to cooperate.

Proost · #44 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 03:27 PM

Mustang - while I got you - where's a good place to find an IAC valve if I need one or other OEM toyota parts online?

mustang67408 · #45 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Proost

Mustang - while I got you - where's a good place to find an IAC valve if I need one or other OEM toyota parts online?

Online-- I do not know

But.... My dealership sells to TS members at a discount rate.
Pm me next week. I am back to work on Tues and can check P/A for you.