2000 echo check engine light

[skipcrockett]

Originally Posted by Siriusarcher

Howdy
My first post here...
Thought I'd share what I've learned recently about the fuel delivery system in this car: Had the check engine light, with poor idling, poor acceleration (bogging when I hit accelerator), and occasional stalling at idle, which is a huge safety issue given the vacuum assist brakes and power steering.

Brought to my mechanic who found the p0172 (rich on fuel mixture). He diagnosed a failed O2 sensor, which was replaced, to no effect. After that, he recommended a new throttle body assembly thinking that the idle motor or throttle position sensor was pooched. These can't be fixed--gotta replace the whole TBA. I went to dealership, bought and installed the part, reset EFI, all to no effect. Finally, on a whim, I pulled the mass air flow sensor out (small philips screwdriver needed), cleaned it with a thimbleful of rubbing alcohol, a q-tip and shot of compressed air. Re-installed and reset compter (pulled EFI fuse B). Voila! problem solved! No bogging, better mileage, no stalling. Could have saved about $700 if I had tried that earlier. Consequently, I've got a perfectly good throttle body assembly sitting on my work bench. Anyone with similar experience?

Hi,
Glad I checked here before doing what was recommended by dealers. I followed instructions and the car is running like it used to. I never spent a penny to fix it. Light is out and running great.

Thanks,
Skip

[echo2k]

ECU Left side Under the drivers side dash

This is a great thread. Mustang is an incredible person. Sorry for the noob question but where is the EFI fuse B located? I see the pdf Mustang provided but it doesn't specifically indicate EFI fuse B. Is it the same as ECU-B??? Thanks.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by echo2k

This is a great thread. Mustang is an incredible person. Sorry for the noob question but where is the EFI fuse B located? I see the pdf Mustang provided but it doesn't specifically indicate EFI fuse B. Is it the same as ECU-B??? Thanks.

Nope just the ECU-IGN

ECU-B is for the daytime running lights

[echo2k]

Thanks for the prompt response Mustang. So pulling and re-installing the ECU-IG fuse will reset the check engine light. Thanks.

[mustang67408]

Yes, that should work. If it doesnt disconnect battery. I use the Toyota scan tool so I dont remoember 100% which fuse works.

[DaveyJJ]

My first post here too. First off thanks to mustang67408 for all his advice and help here. Great job. I too have had many of the same symptoms that Siriusarcher first described and have had my Check Engine light come on this morning on my short commute (rural) to work in my 2001 Toyota Echo.

Had the check engine light today, ever so slightly noticeable poor idling, poor acceleration at times (bogging when I hit accelerator) especially in first few km from home. 152,000km on Echo. I've also noticed my gas mileage has dropped over the last year or so a bit.

I too will be first pulling the MAF sensor and giving it a bit of a clean up, resetting the sensor, and post if that helps. If that doesn't work, I'll post the error code for everyone.

Can I assume that, generally, I can drive it a bit more (perhaps 50km or so) before getting this taken care of, without doing any harm?

Thanks,

David

[ccoorreeyy]

I just wanted to take a second to thank all you guys for your insight to the Echo. I have a 2000 that the check engine light has been on for 6 or 7 months, and had the slugging, stalling, running like a turd proplem with decreesed mpg. I took it to a shop and they did put in a map ? and a new fuel filter. Cost me $180 and the car was none the better. I found this site yesterday and did some reading. Undid the battery, pulled the maf, cleaned it, put it back, plugged the battery back and took off on a test drive. WOW!!!!!!! 60 miles later and no light, no slugging, and way more power. I'm stoked. Thank you guys!

[DaveyJJ]

Originally Posted by DaveyJJ

My first post here too. First off thanks to mustang67408 for all his advice and help here. Great job. I too have had many of the same symptoms that Siriusarcher first described and have had my Check Engine light come on this morning on my short commute (rural) to work in my 2001 Toyota Echo.

Had the check engine light today, ever so slightly noticeable poor idling, poor acceleration at times (bogging when I hit accelerator) especially in first few km from home. 152,000km on Echo. I've also noticed my gas mileage has dropped over the last year or so a bit.

I too will be first pulling the MAF sensor and giving it a bit of a clean up, resetting the sensor, and post if that helps. If that doesn't work, I'll post the error code for everyone.

Can I assume that, generally, I can drive it a bit more (perhaps 50km or so) before getting this taken care of, without doing any harm?

Thanks,

David

That did the trick for me too! Many thanks mustang67408!!!!

[mustang67408]

Thats what makes this site so great.

PEOPLE HELPING PEOPLE.

[lemonjenny]

I, too drive an Echo. Mine is a 2002. I recently had an annoying Check Engine light problem pulling Evap codes. When I took it back for an oil change, I asked them to check the vacuum hoses. Sure, enough, one had slipped off. They cleared the code and it hasn't come back.

All along it did idle hard, though, when at a stop. As soon as I accellerate it is fine, but at stops it idles all rattly and hard. It's still doing this. Any advice??

[Echo6701]

Check Engine Light came on in my Toyota Echo 2001. Lifting the hood I found a hose connected to the rear wall dangling loose. Could this be the cause? Can somebody please tell me where I connect this now?

PS: When going up the ramp onto the freeway I feel a slight stalling when I put my foot to the pedal before the car kind of lurches forward. Could it be the MAF needs cleaning? Either way I will clean it as it seems to have worked for many on here.

Thank You All

[hughc]

Hi Mustang

Is it possible that a bad MAF can cause the following? I posted it elsewhere and dont have an answer yet, please help!

I will try to keep this brief. I would appreciate any help/suggestions on my problem.
I recently purchased a 2001 Echo (standard tranny) with 130K (80,000Miles). The car performed fine for the first week.
Yesterday on the way home from work the check engine light came on. The car was driving perfectly.
I decided to clear the error, just in case it was due to a simple error and if the engine light came on again, I would be certain of a problem.
The car drove perfectly to work (100K) this morning.
Leaving work today, I backed out of the parking spot and the parking brake light stayed on, flashed, stayed on even though the parking brake was off. ALso, the car idled very rough - close to stalling and even with the clutch engaged, there was a noise almost like the clutch wasnt engaged. The noise almost sounded like you were trying to start the car, even though it was running - only when the clutch was engaged. I needed to reve the engine to avoid stalling, and the parking brake light either flashed or stayed on until I got up to 80KPH (50MPH). I drove this speed to avoid any damage to the motor. After about 5 mins at a constant speed, the parking brake light went off. I drove for about 30 mins, and when I took the offramp the car again drove very rough and the brake light came on again - flashed, or stayed on constantly.
I have searched to try and find an answer to why this has happened but came up short.
Any help would be very very appreciated.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by hughc

Hi Mustang

Is it possible that a bad MAF can cause the following? I posted it elsewhere and dont have an answer yet, please help!

I will try to keep this brief. I would appreciate any help/suggestions on my problem.
I recently purchased a 2001 Echo (standard tranny) with 130K (80,000Miles). The car performed fine for the first week.
Yesterday on the way home from work the check engine light came on. The car was driving perfectly.
I decided to clear the error, just in case it was due to a simple error and if the engine light came on again, I would be certain of a problem.
The car drove perfectly to work (100K) this morning.
Leaving work today, I backed out of the parking spot and the parking brake light stayed on, flashed, stayed on even though the parking brake was off. ALso, the car idled very rough - close to stalling and even with the clutch engaged, there was a noise almost like the clutch wasnt engaged. The noise almost sounded like you were trying to start the car, even though it was running - only when the clutch was engaged. I needed to reve the engine to avoid stalling, and the parking brake light either flashed or stayed on until I got up to 80KPH (50MPH). I drove this speed to avoid any damage to the motor. After about 5 mins at a constant speed, the parking brake light went off. I drove for about 30 mins, and when I took the offramp the car again drove very rough and the brake light came on again - flashed, or stayed on constantly.
I have searched to try and find an answer to why this has happened but came up short.
Any help would be very very appreciated.

It sounds like you have 2 problems.

#1 Brake light on at times, usually means the fluid is LOW.
This is either from a leak, or the brakes are near 50% or less.
Have the brake system checked for leaks and pad %.

#2 sounds like an engine miss. Have the codes read next time the engine light comes on, this will help us in the right direction. FLASHING ENGINE LIGHTS mean that whatever cylinder is missing has over a 50% failure and will cause engine and catalyic converter damage if not fixed ASAP.
Cleaning the MAF will never hurt, just go easy and use electronic parts cleaner and air dry, NO COMPRESSED AIR.
I would also advise a TUNE, use NGK or Denso plugs, NO CHAMPION/BOSCH/AUTOLITE/DELCO.
Then roadtest. If this miss is gone. HOOORRAHHHH
If the miss is still there, then mark the coils with a MARKER, then swap them in different cylinders and see if the miss moves to a different cylinder. You will know this by reading a NEW code.
If it moves then you have a bad coil, if it doesnt (bigger issues).
I would start here, ECHO have been very reliable and problem free for the most part.
Let us know what you find.

[hughc]

I checked the fluid, it is full, and the brakes were just inspected 2 weeks ago for a safety check and approved.

I started and drove the car today - no problems

Is it possible that the car went into limp home mode? The light that was flashing (fast flash, or constant on) was the brake warning light.

The car drove very rough, close to stalling, unless I reved the motor. Also, when engaging the clutch at slow speeds, there was a sound, almost like you were trying to start the car even though it was running.

When I got the car up to cruising speed, the light went out, and the car drove smoothly (around 50 mph). As I slowed down off the highway, same symptom, rough drive, brake light flashing or on, and noise when I engaged the clutch at the stop sign.

I am taking the car to the dealership for a tune up, tranny oil change and rad flush/fill. I know that the car was maintained (at least oil changes). Are there any other things that you would suggest I get done?

I would like to explain the the dealership what to look for based on my experience with the brake light and rough drive. Do you think it was the limp home mode?

If you have any suggestions on what this might have been/be I would appreicate it

thank you

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by hughc

Do you think it was the limp home mode?

The brake light has nothing to do with the engine running. Flashing brake light in th edash could be a bad master cylinder float or a wire for the e-brake being grounded, or some sort of aftermarket alarm, or ???

When A car goes into limp mode, the "CHECK ENGINE " light stays illuminated, this tells you there is a problem and to get it checked, has nothing to do with brake light.

This is weird, everything you described says the "CHECK ENGINE " light should be flashing if it is a miss.
Now maybe an aftermarket alarm is making the starter engage even if the engine is running, or maybe there is a short. This is not going to get diagnosed over the net. It just doesnt make much sense without seeing the vehicle.
Sorry, not sure what else to advise.
Let us know what the dealer says.
Good Luck
Maybe someone else has run into this or has abetter idea.