2000 echo check engine light

[hughc]

Hi again, thanks for the quick reply.

Now you have me wondering about something else.

In the glovebox was a manual for an Astroflex Remote Control Engine Starter. At the top of the Windshield there is what looks like an antennae for it. The key does not have the remote control unit.

Is is possible that it is malfunctioning and possibly causing this problem? I will have to look and see where it might be on the engine (sorry, mechanically challenged). This might be a longshot, but maybe this is part of the problem.

Thoughts?

tks

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by hughc

Hi again, thanks for the quick reply.

Now you have me wondering about something else.

In the glovebox was a manual for an Astroflex Remote Control Engine Starter. At the top of the Windshield there is what looks like an antennae for it. The key does not have the remote control unit.

Is is possible that it is malfunctioning and possibly causing this problem? I will have to look and see where it might be on the engine (sorry, mechanically challenged). This might be a longshot, but maybe this is part of the problem.

Thoughts?

tks

YES, I would start by removing that device completly. Who knows who installed it and what wires they tapped into. Remove it and start from square one.
Its probably wired in under the dash or in 1 of the kick panels, or ignition switch.
If your unsure take it to a reputable stereo shop and ask them to remove it, shouldn't cost to much.
Keep us posted.

[hughc]

Turns out to be a loose wire on the autostart around the clutch pedal. It must have been grounding when clutch oedal engaged causing all sorts of weird symptoms - brake light, starter engaging , rough driving etc.

thanks for your help

Hughc

[mustang67408]

glad you fixed it.

[Jay88]

Ok so my mechanic says its going to be $1300 to replace a Cat converter on my 2000 echo. Ive had the O2 sensors replaced and the car runs ok but the check engine light is on so i cant get it smoged.

The mechanic says that echo's don't run worth a hoot on after market cat converters and thats why he has to get a 1000$ Toyota factory converter. is that true or can i just put in a $80 after market one in. if so what Cat Converter would you recommend?

thanks

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by Jay88

Ok so my mechanic says its going to be $1300 to replace a Cat converter on my 2000 echo. Ive had the O2 sensors replaced and the car runs ok but the check engine light is on so i cant get it smoged.

The mechanic says that echo's don't run worth a hoot on after market cat converters and thats why he has to get a 1000$ Toyota factory converter. is that true or can i just put in a $80 after market one in. if so what Cat Converter would you recommend?

thanks

Unfrotunaly he is correct. MOST TOYOTAS do NOT run worth a CRUDE with Aftermarket converters. They last for a few months , then the p0420 comes back for a CATALYTIC Coverter Inefficiency, and you end up buying the Toyota converter anyways.

What code(s) do you have.

[Jay88]

ya it is the PO420 code. I've already replaced the O2 sensor.

Anyway i can get past the smog check without setting myself $1300 in the hole??

[mustang67408]

Not to my knowledge. EVEN if you reset the engine light, the vehicle has to be driven to warm it up and there are certain evaporative emmision monitors in the ECU that have to "COMPLETE". If this monitor fails (catalyst) then it wont pass.
All monitors have to Complete, but your allowed a max of 2 of them to not complete, but your never going to know which that might be. Yes this is confusing, but usually a p0420 makes it fail until its fixed.
PM sent

[pa33]

Hi, my gf seems to be experiencing this O2 sensor problem in her 2000 echo, so I'm going to try to clean the MAF sensor. I don't have this sensor in my car and was hoping for some advice. I have just a couple questions:

1) Where is the sensor located?

2) Whats the best way to clean it and what should I watch out for so I don't damage it?

Thanks for your help!

[maximus06]

thanks mustang and everyone else for your help hope this solve my problem. wish i;ve known this site earlier. keep me from worrying so much andmake unneccesary changes

[mrman]

Hi folks,

First off, mustang67408 -thanks for taking the time to maintain such a great wealth of information. it is people like you who are willing to share information which makes the Internet a fantastic tool.

I have used this site to fix my problem and wanted to reply indicating my symptoms and build to what is already here so that perhaps it will help other people even more.

I have 2001 Echo, 65,000kms, 2nd owner, automatic. Car gave consistent 41mpg with mix of city/hwy (mostly hwy) for the last 10,000kms I have owned it. About 4 weeks ago gas mileage dropped to 35Mpg and I noticed a bit of sluggishness when leaving a stop light or when getting onto the highway on an on ramp with moderate to hard accelerator depression. Then a check engine code got set on a rainy night as soon as I got on the highway above 80kms. The check engine then went off by itself after about 2 weeks. then 1 day it started stalling when you leave a stop light. sometimes when it wouldn't stall, it would bog so badly you thought it had stalled. as a test a few times I pushed the gas to the floor and the car barely moved. it was like it was only firing on 1 cylinder or running out of gas. it would start and idle fine even during this period. I found your site and read about the MAF sensor requiring a cleaning. I took mine out and I thought the heat sensor (2 wires that have a bulb at the end which joins them) was what you were talking about. My heat sensor was so dirty there was a dirt bridge from the sensor to the housing. I cleaned it and reassembled. took it out on the highway and at highway speed it almost felt like the transmission was shifting funny (rougher, wrong gear). This was not noticed before the heat sensor was cleaned. Also, the check engine light returned as soon as I got on the highway and exceeded 80km/h. I borrowed a code reader and found a P code lean O2 sensor (thought I wrote down the code but can't find any record-> think it was a P171 but can't remember -> although I am 100% certain it was a lean O2 code). My code reader (Auto Enginuity ScanTool) could not clear the code so I pulled the battery terminal for about 10 mins. That cleared the check engine light. I drove it back on the highway again, still worked strange and stalled/bogged from a stop but check engine did not reset. Checked the Idle air control (IAC) valve using this process:
• Key off (unenergized), the valve was 1/3 open
• Coolant temp sensor disconnected from wiring harness, key on, the valve was 2/3 open and vibrating (could only sense the vibration when I would touch a very fine screw driver to the valve and I could hear it vibrating against the screwdriver)

I didn't know if this was expected for the IAC... so I came back on this forum and re-read a bunch of posts. they all talk about the "2 wires" of the MAF and some posts say how fragile they are... well... from what I recalled, I had already cleaned 2 wires but they did not seem fragile to me. so I checked other sites and found one (Sorensonbrian) that shows the MAF sensor is not easily visible unless you know where to look and have a flashlight. I checked again and sure enough I did have some fuzz on these wires - and they are VERY fragile. I cleaned them with electronic parts cleaner and reassembled. I cleared the computer again and then took for a test drive - perfect. After 1 full tank, back to 41.5MPG!

For the sake of completeness, the only other problem that I have had (4 months ago) is a P440 code related to the charcoal canister that got set when I thought I would put in more gas after the pump clicked off the first time when filling it up. These cars DO NOT want you to fill up the whole filler tube or I think gas leaks into the canister. The code got set and eventually went out on its own after 5 months. Funny enough, it went out after the car was idling for 20 mins when we were digging it out of a snow bank. I never idle my car except at stop lights so perhaps there is something during an extended idle cycle that causes it to recheck that circuit or perhaps you need to idle a long time to draw the extra gas out of the canister. I am not sure if the fuel in the canister (my assumption of the problem) just eventually evaporated but this is my assumption.

Again, thanks for all your efforts and I hope the long novel I wrote has added more information to assist others.

[Davidkitso]

Hi All,

I'm having a problem with 2000 Toyota Engine Check Light.

And the mechanic is ripping me off.

I Unplugged the EFI fuse and plugged it back and the engine light went off for about 4 months .Recently it appeared again so i went to Mechanic and he said that the 02 Sensor is gone and there is another major problem i.e there is some leak in the engine and the inspection device does not say where it is. He say he has to run some smoke and see from where the smoke is coming out and this mechanic has been fooling me from a while.

Is there anything that i can check before i get ripped again by these people.


Waiting for experts advice

Thanks in advance.

David

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by Davidkitso

Hi All,

I'm having a problem with 2000 Toyota Engine Check Light.

And the mechanic is ripping me off.

I Unplugged the EFI fuse and plugged it back and the engine light went off for about 4 months .Recently it appeared again so i went to Mechanic and he said that the 02 Sensor is gone and there is another major problem i.e there is some leak in the engine and the inspection device does not say where it is. He say he has to run some smoke and see from where the smoke is coming out and this mechanic has been fooling me from a while.

Is there anything that i can check before i get ripped again by these people.


Waiting for experts advice

Thanks in advance.

David

Whats the code??? I need the diagnostic code to know where to start to help you.
Thanks

[Davidkitso]

Hi,

I don't know the diagonistic code. As i said the engine light comes after an hour or so after using the AC.

It has been just few days that i have been using the AC and if iam not wrong thats when the engine light check is coming on.

Do Autozone do a free test to find out the code.

Also, I was reading all the posts and i thought i would clean MAF and could not locate where the MAF is located . I know where the EFI fuse is located .

Also, i see users say see attached PDF but i couldn't find any attachment and mind i'm new to this forum
Let me know

Thanks
David

[mustang67408]

The MAF is in the air filter box.
Yes AUtozone will usually read the codes.
We need a code to know which system is malfunctioning. There are over 300 things that will set a check engine light, so it's best not to guess or assume.