2000 echo check engine light

[Siriusarcher]

Howdy
My first post here...
Thought I'd share what I've learned recently about the fuel delivery system in this car: Had the check engine light, with poor idling, poor acceleration (bogging when I hit accelerator), and occasional stalling at idle, which is a huge safety issue given the vacuum assist brakes and power steering.

Brought to my mechanic who found the p0172 (rich on fuel mixture). He diagnosed a failed O2 sensor, which was replaced, to no effect. After that, he recommended a new throttle body assembly thinking that the idle motor or throttle position sensor was pooched. These can't be fixed--gotta replace the whole TBA. I went to dealership, bought and installed the part, reset EFI, all to no effect. Finally, on a whim, I pulled the mass air flow sensor out (small philips screwdriver needed), cleaned it with a thimbleful of rubbing alcohol, a q-tip and shot of compressed air. Re-installed and reset compter (pulled EFI fuse B). Voila! problem solved! No bogging, better mileage, no stalling. Could have saved about $700 if I had tried that earlier. Consequently, I've got a perfectly good throttle body assembly sitting on my work bench. Anyone with similar experience?

[diamondjoe]

Thank god I came across this forum by chance. Sorry you had to find out the hard way. I took my 2000 Echo to the dealer because the check engine light was on too. Diagnosis was also the PO172, system too rich. I've been having trouble with fuel consumption and alot of bogging when I accelerate (no stalling yet...knock on wood). Toyota's said it need the mass air flow sensor replaced. I haven't done it yet (thankfully). I'll try your solution and see how it works. I've aready spent $108.25 just to have the diagnosis and find the code, and they wanted to charge me another $306.16 for the parts and labour on the MAF sensor.
Have you had any problems with your front bushings yet? My front end guy said Toyota is failing inspections left and right because of bushings being out. They said mine were both gone and needed to be replaced. He (front end guy) told me only one of mine was out a bit and the other was ok. He could rarely find anything wrong with the ones that had just been failed by Toyota. Furthermore, you can't get the bushings and you have to replace the whole control arm assemlbly. Toyota wanted me to replace both control arms for $988 plus another $68.94 for a highly recommended alignment after installation. What a rip off scam.
I'll let you know if your trick works for me, thanks again.

[toan30]

How is everyone doing? I have a 2000 ECHO with 130000 miles and not a single problem. I will say that sometimes when at a stop light at idle the engine seems to want to stall. Would cleaning the MAF help? So far this car is awesome and I hope to drive many more miles on it. My current goal is 450,000 miles. Take care.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by toan30

How is everyone doing? I have a 2000 ECHO with 130000 miles and not a single problem. I will say that sometimes when at a stop light at idle the engine seems to want to stall. Would cleaning the MAF help? So far this car is awesome and I hope to drive many more miles on it. My current goal is 450,000 miles. Take care.

Yes clean the MAF and throttle body.

[erica]

I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo!

I have a very similar problem but my engine says that my fuel mix is too lean not rich. I am going to try this because I just spent $250 replacing my O2 sensor and the problem did not go away. I'm so worried now because when my car is warming up for about the first 10 minutes, I have no acceleration and when it does its a really jerky ride and the car just seems to be driving funny. You said the MAS was to blame, is it simple enough for me to replace the part myself because I can't afford to take my car back into the shop again!

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by erica

I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo!

I have a very similar problem but my engine says that my fuel mix is too lean not rich. I am going to try this because I just spent $250 replacing my O2 sensor and the problem did not go away. I'm so worried now because when my car is warming up for about the first 10 minutes, I have no acceleration and when it does its a really jerky ride and the car just seems to be driving funny. You said the MAS was to blame, is it simple enough for me to replace the part myself because I can't afford to take my car back into the shop again!

A MAF will cause the problems your describing also.
There are 2 phyllips screws to remove and 1 connector to unplug. Remove it form the air intake tube and CLEAN wih electronic parts cleaner.
Re-install , CLEAR code(s) and see how it runs.

What code did you have????

[erica]

bank 1 O2 sensor lean fuel mix

something like that...

I just went and purchased the electronics cleaner and dried it with compressed air. Pulled the EFI fuse and took it for a test drive. I must say I can tell a significant improvement immediately cleaning the MAF sensor. The check engine has not come back on yet and hopefully it will not. It sucks that I spent the money to get a new O2 sensor, but at least I won't have to worry about that ever going out.

Thanks for your help!

Erica

[mustang67408]

Sounds great

If the check engne light comes back on , POST the code and we may be able to help more.

hopefully you fixed it
Good luck

[erica]

Well the car is running very smoothly now. The only thing that I noticed is that when I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear the car has a loud roaring sound from the engine like I have adjusted the intake or exhaust system. I'm not really noticing a poor performance from the car rather I'm noticing an increase in acceleration (added zip)! Should I worry about this new sound the car is making? Because I changed my air filter at the same time as cleaning out the MAF sensor.. could it be that I didn't seal the air filter chamber? I'm picky about the way my car drives and every time that a funny noise occurs I start to worry.. and I'm about to make a long drive to Florida in about 3 weeks so I just want everything to be lined up and ready to go.

[erica]

also I wanted to ask how do I clean my throttle body.. more importantly where is it located? thanks again!

[mustang67408]

The throttle body is at the end of the intake hose. (see attchment)

The noise your hearing is probably like you said, the air cleaner box is not properly seated. There are 2 tabs at the back of it that fit into spaces and then 2 clips secire it. Make sure you get the Vac lines put back on it their propr spots.

[tobiasgriffith]

I've had my Echo since 2000 and it's been a very good car until about 9 months ago.
It all started when, after the car had been sitting a few hours or more, it would struggle a little once you started your first acceleration. It would almost stall, and then miraculously, after only one time, drive normally until the next time.
About 4 months ago, the check engine light came on, stayed on for about a day or so and then went back off again.
About 2 months ago, driving long distances with it, I was going about 75 mph on the freeway and it suddenly gave way, dropping my speed to about 35 and I pulled over, waited a few minutes and started it again and drove home. The check engine light came on and has since never gone off again.
Now, not only do I have the "almost stalling" problem all the time, but after this passes, it makes a slight rattling noise as I accelerate around the 30 mph range (automatic transmission).
I finally took the car to auto zone earlier today and had them test it and tell me that the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced "too lean". I bought the sensor with a set of spark plugs and then began my quest to discover how to change the oxygen sensor. Good thing I came accross this website and have read what I've read. I immediately cleaned the MAF sensor and dried it with an air compressor, pulled the EFI fuse and reset the check engine light.
Not only did I feel the difference immediately but I've driven 30 miles now and the light did not return.
The only thing that worries me is I still hear that slight rattling noise when accelerating around the 30 mph range. Do I need to clean my throttle body and if so, what do I use to clean it? I've seen the file, but would like more specific info on this as I'm not too "car savvy".
I'll let you know if the check engine light comes back on, but as of now, so far so good.

Thank you very much for all your help.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by tobiasgriffith

I've had my Echo since 2000 and it's been a very good car until about 9 months ago.
It all started when, after the car had been sitting a few hours or more, it would struggle a little once you started your first acceleration. It would almost stall, and then miraculously, after only one time, drive normally until the next time.
About 4 months ago, the check engine light came on, stayed on for about a day or so and then went back off again.
About 2 months ago, driving long distances with it, I was going about 75 mph on the freeway and it suddenly gave way, dropping my speed to about 35 and I pulled over, waited a few minutes and started it again and drove home. The check engine light came on and has since never gone off again.
Now, not only do I have the "almost stalling" problem all the time, but after this passes, it makes a slight rattling noise as I accelerate around the 30 mph range (automatic transmission).
I finally took the car to auto zone earlier today and had them test it and tell me that the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced "too lean". I bought the sensor with a set of spark plugs and then began my quest to discover how to change the oxygen sensor. Good thing I came accross this website and have read what I've read. I immediately cleaned the MAF sensor and dried it with an air compressor, pulled the EFI fuse and reset the check engine light.
Not only did I feel the difference immediately but I've driven 30 miles now and the light did not return.
The only thing that worries me is I still hear that slight rattling noise when accelerating around the 30 mph range. Do I need to clean my throttle body and if so, what do I use to clean it? I've seen the file, but would like more specific info on this as I'm not too "car savvy".
I'll let you know if the check engine light comes back on, but as of now, so far so good.

Thank you very much for all your help.

Glad TS helped you.
What codes did they tell you?
if you did not buy a factory Sensor and factory plugs , i recommend returning them and getting factory parts. i can assist you in that if your interested.
Pm me for deatils on that.
You can clean the throttle body with NON-CHLORINATED Carb cleaner or brake cleaner.
The rattle could be anything from and exh clamp loose to pining or the waterpump coming apart. I would drive it farther 100 mils or so and see if the engine relearns things. The lean running froma dirty MAF sensor may have it out of calibration and it takes some time for the computer to relearn after you cleared the code.

[tobiasgriffith]

I already returned that parts and, you were right, they were not the original manufacturer parts.
For now, I'm holding off on buying the new oxygen sensor (manufacturer part) because I'm not so sure that this was the real problem with the car now. Do you think this is ok? Or should I change the Oxygen sensor anyways. I don't remember the exact code it gave but it said something like, "bank 1 too lean".

I will drive it a couple more days and see what's happening.

Thanks again for all your help.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by tobiasgriffith

I already returned that parts and, you were right, they were not the original manufacturer parts.
For now, I'm holding off on buying the new oxygen sensor (manufacturer part) because I'm not so sure that this was the real problem with the car now. Do you think this is ok? Or should I change the Oxygen sensor anyways. I don't remember the exact code it gave but it said something like, "bank 1 too lean".

I will drive it a couple more days and see what's happening.

Thanks again for all your help.

IF IT'S NOT BROKE DON'T FIX IT.

It was probably code P0171, That is usually the MAF sensor. Cleaning fixes it MOST of the time. I would drive it and see what happens.
If the light comes back on, Get the code scanned and tells us here at TS so we can help you diag the problem. I think you fixed it already