A/c System Pressures On A 2000 Echo

[toan30]

Does anyone know what the correct AC system Low and High side pressures should be when checking for proper charge? If anyone does it would be greatly appreciated as I dont really want to take it in for this check.

[TS Support]

Low pressure side:
0.15 - 0.25 MPa (1.5 - 2.5 kgf/cm2)
High pressure side:
1.37 - 1.57 MPa (14 - 16 kgf/cm2)

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by TS Support

Low pressure side:
0.15 - 0.25 MPa (1.5 - 2.5 kgf/cm2)
High pressure side:
1.37 - 1.57 MPa (14 - 16 kgf/cm2)

Low Side:
21.3 psi-35.5 psi

High Side:
199 psi- 227.6 psi

[toan30]

Thanks for the replies. The dealer wanted to rip me for 40 just to check them. A friend of mine is an AC Tec and he had to add about half a can and now all is cool. Once again thanks guys.

[acdc007elite]

I have a 1996 Tacoma 4 cyl 2.7L, I was wondering if anyone out there had the pressures for the high and low sides for my A/C as well? I read on a different site that it was approx 45lbs-low and 270lbs-high. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by acdc007elite

I have a 1996 Tacoma 4 cyl 2.7L, I was wondering if anyone out there had the pressures for the high and low sides for my A/C as well? I read on a different site that it was approx 45lbs-low and 270lbs-high. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

45/270 are a bit high

Make sure condensor and radiator are clean of debris
Check and make sure you can NOT stop the fan clutch (BE VERY CAREFUL and use a RAG)and do it with vehicle at operating temp.

Low Side:
21.3 psi-35.5 psi

High Side:
199 psi- 227.6 psi

[acdc007elite]

Thanks for the response, all is well and hitting about 55-60 degrees below ambient air temps. Thanks for the specs.

[kathyricks]

Although I'm not up to speed on late model Toyotas, in the past all Toyotas had a refrigerant sight glass, usually built into the receiver-drier. You didn't need pressure gauges. Instead you just add refrigerant until the bubbles in the sight glass dissappear (while the engine is idling and AC controls are set for maximum cooling). If you vehicle has a sight glass I'd use it because it's an excellent way to avoid under or overfilling the system.

Regardless of outside temps, the center dash vent temp should be in the
35-44 degree range. If warmer, system could be under or overcharged with
refrigerant.

[mustang67408]

Originally Posted by kathyricks

Although I'm not up to speed on late model Toyotas, in the past all Toyotas had a refrigerant sight glass, usually built into the receiver-drier. You didn't need pressure gauges. Instead you just add refrigerant until the bubbles in the sight glass dissappear (while the engine is idling and AC controls are set for maximum cooling). If you vehicle has a sight glass I'd use it because it's an excellent way to avoid under or overfilling the system.

Regardless of outside temps, the center dash vent temp should be in the
35-44 degree range. If warmer, system could be under or overcharged with
refrigerant.

This is not quite true in the hotter/drier areas of the US. (AZ,NV,TX,NM and some others).
Toyota has eliminated the site glass in most newer models. The rec/drier is built into the condensor and has a replaceable desicant pack.
R-134 has a bad tendancy to expand when hot. If you fill the system until the bubbles just disappear, then in the summer HOT (105+)months your system is going to be overfilled. We have found if you fill them 5% under the min spec everything works fine in these hotter areas of the country.
Filling the system w/sight glass was old school and does work most of the time, but not in the "HOT" areas. Be careful when doing it this way. It makes a difference where you live in the country.
I have seen temps of 105+ outside and A/C pressures exceed 450psi in a "properly" filled system, Lowering the freon level by 5% below min spec,it drops down to approx 300psi.

[kathyricks]

Originally Posted by mustang67408

I have seen temps of 105+ outside and A/C pressures exceed 450psi in a "properly" filled system, Lowering the freon level by 5% below min spec,it drops down to approx 300psi.

Great info. to know. Thanks for the tips.

[nitrojunkie]

Ok, so my little beater 2000 echo has a low side pressure of 40 & a high side pressure of 160-170 .at an idle.yes i know thats not normal. blows 72 deg. at an Idle But cools down to 50 running down the interstate. no matter how high or low in freon I set it at.The condensor fans working properly and so is the high speed cooling.I was hoping that the exspansion valve was the problem ( changed it ) no dice . So Im guessing my compressor is weak??? any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

[mustang67408]

HMMMM, my first thought was the EXP Valve stuck open, but since you changed it.........
Make sure there is good airflow. I mean no debris between the radiator and the condensor.
DID YOU ADD OIL to the a/c system each time you charged it? sometimes to much oil will cause this condition. Are the fans spinning in the correct direction and have the right blades on them? I had a Prius from a body shop and they had switched the fan blades, so they were pushing, not pulling. ( I know its ok, but had to ask--seen stranger things).
Do the needles on the gauge BOUNCE? That is an indication of a compressor going away too.
Make sure if you change the compressor to change the drier as well.
(1.23lbs ± 1.06 oz.) Is the system overcharged?

[nitrojunkie]

YEs I did add a little oil to the system, I only charged it to 1lbs at first , then added .3 to see if any changes occurred ( none ) ,As far as the Fans go, they are in full working order correct spinning direction, As far as the needles bouncing < Yes , I did notice it , that is also what is leaning me tward the compressor. And Yes I do plan on changing the Drier-condencer,,,why they made them all in one is beyound me. Ok, So if my compressor is the Problem,, any suggestion where I can get a good compressor Or rebuild mine? New OE is $678.00 & a remand is $369.00 Holy cow...