It is very hard to shift gears. It feels like you are stuck on something and you have to push through it. Going into reverse it makes a grinding noise.
Same problem since I bought the truck 2 yrs ago and after the new clutch was put in.
well then post over in the dead and no longer made forum and not the gen 2 tundra forum.
Friendly bunch of guys aren't they?
I'd say you had clutch problems. (throw out bearing) Was the problem there before the new clutch, or did it appear after the new clutch was put in? If it was, and the new clutch didn't change anything, then you might have deeper tranny problems. (have you checked your tranny fluid?)
I'd check that clutch bracket underneath the dash...the original stock ones are prone to cracking. If you don't fix it...then it will eventually crack the firewall.
I currently drive an '06 Tundra, had a '95 T100 (loved it), both with automatics. I did have a '91 regular old Toyota small pick up with the 3.0 V6 with a manual on which I experienced the same shifting problem. Wouldn't have thought it but I had changed the lube in the transmission, apparently used the wrong stuff which made shifting very difficult. Drained and refilled with the right junk and it was smooth as silk again. Have you changed tranny lube during this excercise?
I would also check the shifter seat. When you remove the shifter, there is supposed to be a GREEN/Black plastic(resin) seat that the shifter rests on inside the transmission shift tower. If it is broken or missing in many cases, it is very difficult to shift and the shifter is sloppy and usually flops all over the place.
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Giving this further thot; You need to isolate the problem to determine if it is the clutch or not. With truck at rest and parking brake set. Start engine, put in neutral, release clutch, push clutch, wait 2 seconds or more, and shift into reverse. Does it go in to reverse without the sound of grinding gears? If there is no grinding gear sound, it probably is not your clutch. Reverse is non-synchronized. After you push the clutch, the entire gear train in the tranny should come to rest if the clutch is disengaging completely. The forward gears are synchronized. If the clutch is not disengaging completely and you attempt to shift into first gear at rest, the gears in the tranny will still be spinning, partially powered by the engine, and the synchronizers will attempt to synchronize the gar speeds but will be unable to do so since the gear is still under power thus the shifter will feel really stiff preventing the gears from easily engaging..
If you get no grinding, the clutch is OK and then you need to explore the transmission. Other posters have provided other ideas including mine about having the right weight lubricant in the case.
Ooops. You do state there is grinding noise. Have you bled the hydraulic system for the sleve system? (The clutch is actuated my a master cylinder/sleve cylinder- not a cable- there is no adjustment. Is the fluid up to level in the clutch master cylinder? I'm running outta ideas.