You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Tundra Solutions is looking for someone in the central valley who owns a 2007x Supercharged Tundra that we can borrow to take pictures of and use in a story. If you would like to help please send a PM to TundraSoul or send us an email. We will pay you for your gas and time to meet us at our office in Clovis. Thanks.
Performance Exhaust SystemsDetailed discussions regarding performance headers, single, dual, street and off-hard racing exhaust systems for your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Installed the Thorley headers today...", within the Performance Exhaust Systems forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I have issues; first let me say that I broke a bolt connecting the cat back to the H pipe so I have an exhaust leak there and I stripped a bolt on the drivers side Y flange where the header meets the H pipe...and I could not get 1 nut on each header on due to the size of the pipe and the air manifold..so I have 7/8 nuts on each side...
and the truck will not run. As long as I rev it it runs but it will not idle, it shuts off when I don't give it gas...I do not have any check enginie lights, all 02 sensors are plugged in, I think it is due to the leak at the catback/H pipe and the header/H pipe..both of those are my fault...I will take it Big Al's tomorrow to have them fix that...
The not getting the 1 nut on each side on the header I lay fault at Thorley; I am 6 1, 225 lbs and have large arms/hands..I did this in my driveway without a lift but I can't see where that matters...I jacked the engine up, down, etc, and could not get either of those nuts on..I could get my fingers in to touch the stud but that was it..and if I were able to get it on with my fingers there was no way of getting a socket or wrench in there to tighten it..
I had the drivers side manifold off in an hour and a half; taking them off was a lot easier than putting the new ones on due to the size difference...
I am so upset and hoping that my 2 mistakes are what is causing the truck to not run...I have to get them fixed first before t/s more...
Please chime in if you think my truck not running is due to my mistakes...
I am at a loss...my theory is that it is sucking air in via the exhaust leaks when the engine is not being revved overcoming the exhaust leak...???
When I installed headers on my 03 Dodge with the 5.7L engine, my truck did the same thing your talking about. It would not stay running for anything. What I had to do was reset my computer by removing the battery cables for about 10 min. I reinstalled the cables and had to drive my truck around for about an hour to let the computer readjust for the headers. It idled like crap for almost a week if I remember right but ran great once I was driving. Then, it started running great after that week. I guess I am saying that your computer just needs to readjust for the lessened back pressure on the engine and just needs a little time to do it.
I hope that is all that it is; I disconnected the battery for 5 -10 mins, maybe I did not disconnect it long enough...I need to get the 2 my fault exhaust leaks fixed first and then go from there...wondering about the back pressure; the factory H pipe is still there and I so have a Magnaflow CB so I would think on a NA engine there is still enough back pressure...if I had no cats on the H or no muffler that might be it..I don't know...
your engine doesnt care if you have an exhaust or not. check you dont have vacuum leaks from the intake or anything. That'll gave you problems. Any vacuum hosing touched or anything? You could have exhaust leaks from the headers, to the tip, the engine doesnt care at all so dont beat urself.
__________________
2007 FJ Cruiser 4x4 5spd A/T, 06 Corolla CE, 02 4Runner SE 4x4 A/T
1991 Toyota Cressida 5spd M/T Turbo Charged
1991 Toyota Cressida 5spd M/T Turbo Charged
1989 Toyota Supra 5spd M/T Turbo Charged
Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Groove
Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD. You want to hit it, but you fear the consequences.
I did have to jack the engine up and down to get the headers in and lined up so maybe I knoced something loose...I will look...so an exhaust leak won't cause the engine to stall?
An exhaust leak at the head flange can suck back in air and cause a false lean condition, the ECU responds by adding more fuel and it could run too rich to idle. A leak after the cats wont do anything like that.
I checked under the hood and sure enough the air intake tube popped out from the rubber connector...put in back in and it runs, idles and sounds like it supposed to! On my way to Big Al's to have them fix the uh oh's I did...and to see if they can get those 2 nuts on...
Greg,
Just wanted to say that even though I don’t know much about how to install my own headers (never did it myself), I just feel for you on this install… I know it is frustrating, but I hope you get the two bolts fixed. I can’t speak for everyone, but I know that – myself included – many of us really appreciate you taking the time to write down your experience despite the problems. So, hang in there and let us know when the other bolts are on and how the headers perform! Hoping everything turns out better for you today!
An exhaust leak at the head flange can suck back in air and cause a false lean condition, the ECU responds by adding more fuel and it could run too rich to idle. A leak after the cats wont do anything like that.
I will definitely agree here. As I was reading your PM as well it sounds like the flange of the headers is not completely mated to the and causing the crappy idle. Did you use the bent wrench to get to the bolts around the smog bar? And did you tighten from the inside cylinder bolts outward? There are a few tips that I also wanted to go over with you. I tried your number and no answer and the other was a wrong number. Give me a call when you can and well get you sorted!!
Glad you found the problem. Reading through the post I was about to agree that the problem was most likely a vacume leak.
Anyway, be sure to let us know the results once your ECU gets used to the new bolt on
It typically takes Toyotas 100-200 solid driving miles to get used to new mods. Be sure to vary your RPMs and loads to get all the different driving conditions so that your ECU can accurately adjust.
wow..... This was a nail biter for me. I have my headers set to install in the morning. As I was reading this thread, I'm thinking "the heck with this, I'm going e-bay with mine" but, now that it is not running because of the vacuum leak, I am back on course.
Did you reuse your gaskets? I ordered new gaskets for all 4 ends for just under a hundred bucks! I rather not have to go back in there for a leak because I was to cheap to spend another hundred bucks.
Thanks for the taking the time to post your experience, and I can't wait to hear how the DT perform.