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Performance Exhaust SystemsDetailed discussions regarding performance headers, single, dual, street and off-hard racing exhaust systems for your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "My new JBA headers", within the Performance Exhaust Systems forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Well I finally broke down and bought a pare of JBA headers in hopes of getting rid of that nasty ticking noise, and maybe gaining some more power in the process. . Well everything went as planned, and all the studs came out without breaking. The headers went in fine, bolted them up and torqued them down as shown in the directions.
I'll give JBA a 10 for fun and easy.
After install truck sounded good. idle sounded good no leaks. On the test drive, WOW was the ticking even worse than before. Left my truck at the dealership and took my girl friends car home, next day after work I jacked the motor up and removed the motor mounts once again. Re torqued the bolts, they were about 5 pounds under. Truck then sounded good after that a little ticking but not bad. Drove it home that night and in the morning started it up and let her worm up. Again the truck was ticking like hell about 2000rpms +. Idle sounds good.
I guess its not gonna bug me. Just save for Exhaust, loud exhaust.
Also have noticed an increase in low end torque.
Heres some pics of that install day.
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2001 Toyota Tundra 2WD V8 SR5 X-Cab TRD Package, 2.5' Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Front Shocks, Rear Bilstein 5100 shocks, 1 1/4' Rear AAL, K&N Cold Air-intake FIPK GEN 2, K&N Blue Drycharger, JBA Headers, Gibson Dual Rear Split Exhaust, 16x10 American Eagle 186 Alloy, Mastercraft Courser A/T 285/75/16r
Well I finally broke down and bought a pare of JBA headers in hopes of getting rid of that nasty ticking noise, and maybe gaining some more power in the process. . Well everything went as planned, and all the studs came out without breaking. The headers went in fine, bolted them up and torqued them down as shown in the directions.
I'll give JBA a 10 for fun and easy.
After install truck sounded good. idle sounded good no leaks. On the test drive, WOW was the ticking even worse than before. Left my truck at the dealership and took my girl friends car home, next day after work I jacked the motor up and removed the motor mounts once again. Re torqued the bolts, they were about 5 pounds under. Truck then sounded good after that a little ticking but not bad. Drove it home that night and in the morning started it up and let her worm up. Again the truck was ticking like hell about 2000rpms +. Idle sounds good.
I guess its not gonna bug me. Just save for Exhaust, loud exhaust.
Also have noticed an increase in low end torque.
Heres some pics of that install day.
You should have had the headers machined flat before installing them. Thats why they leak. Are you sure they leak or is it just the tinniness of the thin tubing????
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Mods: Donahoe TCF coilovers, TC upper arms, rear Bilstein 5100s, Downey headers, 3" exhaust with Spintech Prostreet, BFG MT 285-70-17s on Helo Maxx 6 Chrome, Electric Brake controller. Tsunami RCA converter, PIE AUX adapter, LA Sound amp, MTX 10" band pass sub.
You should have had the headers machined flat before installing them. Thats why they leak. Are you sure they leak or is it just the tinniness of the thin tubing????
He just said they don't leak....Its the ticking noise he is talking about
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 87 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
Check the flanges going into the y-pipe right after the headers for cracks at the welds.
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x2 RCSB slate metallic
2005 Corolla - all stock, cause it's the wifes
1986 Mustang GT - the stereo is under the hood
1990 Corolla - cause it was really cheap
Have you checked your steering shaft seal to see if it has rips and tears in it. Looking up from the bottom of the truck, near the steering rack, shine a light up the steering shaft spline up to the firewall. That seal/boot takes care of all the header noise inside the cabin. The part can be ordered at any toyota dealership for $12.50 or so.
Last edited by robbergeron23; 12-23-2007 at 07:36 PM.