Hey guys...i am attempting to remove the passengar side manifold but am having issues with the nut that is inbetween the manifold and motor mount....does anyone have any suggestions on breaking this one loose? I have tried getting a ratchet but theres just not enough room and a wrench is doing nothing but rounding out the head of the nut...let me know how you guys did it...thanks much
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-Lift- 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- 1" Diff Drop -- Total Chaos UCA's -- TC Steering Rack Bushings
I have a 2001 and don't know how different yours is, but I removed the motor mount. Put a piece of wood between your jack and the oil pan and just give it a little bit of lift. My mount only had four bolts. It gives you the room you need.
Welp, after taking a peek at it i have a feeling that that is the only option, i just hope that the one bolt head isnt stripped to the point of a ratchet not grabbing it now. Will let you guys know...thanks for the tips.
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-Lift- 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- 1" Diff Drop -- Total Chaos UCA's -- TC Steering Rack Bushings
Welp so far the passenger side is complete the driver side is still a work in progress, however due to a 1/2 drive universal as well as a 3/8's universal snapping the job is coming to a halt for now...kinda sucks though because the drivers side had to be grinded off (the receiver pipe not the manifold part...) anyway...good thing the universals were craftsman...gonna have to take em back to get replaced before i can finish the job
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-Lift- 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- 1" Diff Drop -- Total Chaos UCA's -- TC Steering Rack Bushings
I feel your pain bro. The driver's side is the worst, especially those two studs hidden under the motor mount. I completely removed my motor mount and had decent access to the studs. It wasn't great, but it was good enough to get the proper tools in there through the wheel well. Breaker bars, all sizes of universals, about 2ft of extension and every 14mm socket I could find, as well as a few 14mm open/closed end wrenches and a ratcheting combo wrench.
From what others have told me, if you can get a torch in there (with confidence), heat the studs and then break them loose. Seems that's the best way to go.
Good luck!
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My Truck: 2005 Tundra, 2UZFE. 4WD. AccessCab. Spectra Blue Mica (8M6). TRD. AT. CC. CK. DZ. FE. AW. LD. OF. TO. VP.
just finished my header install today i work at a dealer ( honda) and used a lift , air tools, almost every socket,extention,swivel combo you can think of and i cut out my y pipe and resinator welded in new y pipe from kit pain in the *** install but it sounds good
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2005 dc 4x4, boost brothers headers & Y-pipe flowmaster, k&n intake , diff drop, 5100's set on high, 285-75-16
yea i ended up finishing it up on wednesday, i snapped both my half inch and 3/8 craftsman universals while i was taking the manifolds off...most def wasnt the highlight of my install...although it was to be expected, after 5 years of all different types of mud on the bolts 5 of the studs wouldnt even budge so i had to use a combination of the new lugs and the factory studs to reinstall the headers. I actually found the passengar side to be harder to get to then the drivers side on mine, however the body lift made it quite a bit spacier around things. all in all the install is clean, it was a pain to actually get the drivers side header into position, but it is done. I can def feel a low end power loss and a slight gain in higher end, hopefully when i send the unichip back to them to have it reprogrammed, it will give gains all around.
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-Lift- 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- 1" Diff Drop -- Total Chaos UCA's -- TC Steering Rack Bushings