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Performance Exhaust SystemsDetailed discussions regarding performance headers, single, dual, street and off-hard racing exhaust systems for your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "What to buy before I install my JBA headers?", within the Performance Exhaust Systems forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
A couple of other things I forgot to "pose" for the picture, 17mm socket and copper anti-sieze. Also, floor jack, jack stands, tire iron and trouble light.
In my experience, having done this twice now, the 14mm ratchet wrench and the 14mm universal socket are worth their weight in gold for this install. I also had a 14mm crowfoot but didn't use it. The theme here is 14mm, as all of the nuts at the head and at the collector are 14mm. The 17mm tools are for the new bolts on the collectors of the JBAs.
The 14mm is also used to pull the aft ends of the cat pipes apart, which I did, and the transmission cross-member.
You might also want to get some of the plastic clips that hold the splash shields into the wheel wells as I seem to have busted about half of those now that I've had them out twice.
Thanks for the detailed list. Did you re use the stock bolts and studs or did you get new ones? Also did you use the JBA or OEM header gasket?
The first time I installed I used the JBA gaskets, I re-installed this past weekend with factory Toyota gaskets due to a suspected leak, I had another thread going on this topic. I bought new locknuts (16) for the head flange the first time around and re-used 6 of the original nuts with the JBA bolts and lock washers at the collectors. This time I re-used all of the hardware, only replaced the gaskets.
OEM locknuts, from the dealer.
I see you have an '01 Tundra; you may want to really spray your hardware well ahead of time with penetrating oil (maybe even WD-40). I don't know what sort of rusting conditions you live in. Some of my hardware was really, really tight the first time around. I was surprised I didn't break anything trying to get some of those original nuts loose, especially the ones at the collector. That's where I used the breaker bar, to "crack" all the nuts loose.
Last edited by HotRod8; 02-16-2006 at 06:13 PM.
Reason: Correct grammer and add witty comment.
OEM locknuts, from the dealer.
I see you have an '01 Tundra; you may want to really spray your hardware well ahead of time with penetrating oil (maybe even WD-40). I don't know what sort of rusting conditions you live in. Some of my hardware was really, really tight the first time around. I was surprised I didn't break anything trying to get some of those original nuts loose, especially the ones at the collector. That's where I used the breaker bar, to "crack" all the nuts loose.
Thanks for the tip. My truck and I lived in California since new so it shouldn't be too rusted. This is my and the trucks first winter here in Michigan. Had I had the truck since new in Michigan I'm sure it would be well rusted by now.
__________________
"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
I used new Toyota lock nuts and gaskets. Worth the $, IMO...
I don't know about you, but having big hands was a bit of a drawback for me. Had to get real creative when disconnecting the O2 sensors and reaching some of the more remote locations. If you have an assistant with you to hand you tools, order pizza, bring beer, etc. it will go a lot smoother.
I reccomend PB blaster over liquid wrench and other penetrating lubes. It works the best, in my experience. Soak them. For as long as you can before you get started. If one gets stubborn, tighten, spray, loosen. Over and over. DO NOT even think about using this stuff (or doing any of this work) without eye protection. Not a smart gamble.
If you have a spare set of knuckles around, you might need them when you're done. Some extra rest and a whole lot of patience will be priceless.
*Edit* Oh yeah, if you have air tools, and don't plan on selling your old manifolds, use an impact to spin off the collector nuts, or just cut them off to start if they are galled or stuck. That or a really long breaker bar. I could have saved 2+ hrs. by deciding to break these off right away (HAD to eventually) instead of working them loose.
__________________
- JD
2000 Toyota Tundra Limited 4x4 w/ TRD Package
Thunder Grey Metallic
Factory Options: Leather Captain's Chairs, Color Keyed Running Boards, tow package
Aftermarket Additions: JVC KDSHX900 w/ HD, Sirius S50 Satellite Radio, JL Audio Stealthbox, Eclipse 500W 5-channel Amp, MB Quart Ref Components w/ 1.5" tweeters up front, Coax rears, Peel & Seal sound deadening, Trenz Billet Grill, Tailgate Extender, Sylvania Silverstar headlights, Hella SuperTone Twin Horns, Ivan Stewart Body kit sprayed with Duplicolor bedliner
Modifications: JBA Titanium coated headers, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, TRD Dual Side Exit Exhaust, TRD IS Wheels Polished and Powdercoated Gunmetal Grey, shod w/ 285/75R16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO, RaceRunner Sway-A-Way Coilovers & Daystar Add-A-Leafs, Front Porterfield Brake Pads, Power Outlet Mod, Rear Seat Mod, NGK iridium plugs
Latest modifications: Sirius S50 Satellite Radio, Unichip, Powertrax No-Slip Rear, grey bumpers, G tech
I installed JBA headers a few weeks ago on my MY2000. I used new Toyota gaskets and locknuts. I did not use new studs but had to be very careful removing the hardware due to fairly heavy corrosion. I took my time - stopping whenever I felt too much resistance. I applied penetrating oil generously and let them soak then tried again later. I spent three days getting the old manifold off. After that it was a piece of cake. I'm very happy with the JBA header and Flowmaster exhaust combo. Good luck.
My dealer is trying to charge me 1.64 each for the lock nuts. Seems stupid to me to drive an hour each way to go pay 26 bucks for some nuts. They also do not have any studs in stock, and could not have them until "maybe wednesday". They want 3.45 each for them. That would be 82 bucks for just the hardware. I was wondering where else a guy could get these studs?
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
Last edited by DigitalFusion; 12-03-2007 at 10:29 AM.
My dealer is trying to charge me 1.64 each for the lock nuts. Seems stupid to me to drive an hour each way to go pay 26 bucks for some nuts. They also do not have any studs in stock, and could not have them until "maybe wednesday". They want 3.45 each for them. That would be 82 bucks for just the hardware. I was wondering where else a guy could get these studs?
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__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | Nurf Bars | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
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What to buy before I install my JBA headers?
Did you re use the stock bolts and studs or did you get new ones? Also did you use the JBA or OEM header gasket?
). I don't know what sort of rusting conditions you live in. Some of my hardware was really, really tight the first time around. I was surprised I didn't break anything trying to get some of those original nuts loose, especially the ones at the collector. That's where I used the breaker bar, to "crack" all the nuts loose.
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