Drive Shaft Thump/Clunk Poll

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View Poll Results: Does you Tundra have the Drive Shaft Thump/Clunk

Voters
110. You may not vote on this poll
  • No thumps/clunks at all

    47 42.73%
  • It thumps/clunks 3-4 times per trip

    40 36.36%
  • It thumps/clunks 6-10 times per trip

    8 7.27%
  • It thumps/clunks almost every time it stops

    12 10.91%
  • It thumps/clunks every time it stops

    3 2.73%
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Thread: Drive Shaft Thump/Clunk Poll

  1. #1
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    Default Drive Shaft Thump/Clunk Poll

    How many of you have the drive shaft thump/clunk noise. Let me explain it. When I come to a somewhat abrupt stop in my Tundra and then I lift my foor off the brakes to start moving again I here a thump. It was explained to me by the folks here that the driveshaft binds and when you release the pressure on it by lifting the brakes it thumps. I also know that removing the shaft and cleaning and greasing the slpines will mose likely fix the thump.

    Please asnwer the above poll. I want to know how widespread is this before I take mine to the dealer or fix it myself.

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    Lurking Member xman1035's Avatar
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    My Tundra was making the clunk sound a few days ago after I drove in the rain and went through some large puddles of water. My wife and I heard the sound about 12 times and I was surprised to hear it with less than 1000 miles on the Tundra.

    I greased the driveshaft with synthetic grease and it was a bit dry. After I greased it, I drove over bumps, went on a dirt road and made sharp turns in the Tundra to see if I could duplicate the clunk sound. I could not duplicate the clunk sound and so far my Tundra is clunk sound free. I guess that the driveshaft was the problem and greasing it solved the clunk problem.

    I had a 1993 Land Cruiser and it made the same clunk sound but after a good greasing the noise would disappear. The same clunk sound was heard on my father-in law's 4x4 Ford Bronco and when he had the driveshaft greased the noise disappeared too.

    It appears from my experience that 4x4 models tend have this problem more than 4x2 models.

  4. #3
    Assistant Administrator nhparrot's Avatar
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    No thumps/clunks at all - BUT, I do grease it every 5K miles.
    ~Glenn
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    "To err is human. To arrr is pirate."

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    had the driveline clunk problem with a 2002 tacoma prerunner. Dealer removed, inspected and lubed the drive shaft. Problem remained. Said it was the design of the vehicle due to the combination of driveline length, torque and suspension of the prerunner. They said it had to do with the spline when the driveline lengthens and contracts when coming to a stop. Also mentioned that happens to some 95 and up 4runners, TUNDRAS and tacomas with auto trans. The problem I had with the tacoma was on the extreme end. Clunk would be felt almost every time I came to a stop. First few times, had to check the rear view mirror to see if someone had rear ended the truck. Turned in the tacoma and got a tundra manual trans.

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    Thanks for the input so far. Please keep on voting. We need a larger sample. Can we get to 100 or more? I want to take this thread/poll and show it to the dealer when he gives me the "could not duplicate" line.

  7. #6
    Assistant Administrator nhparrot's Avatar
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    Originally posted by nj1266
    Thanks for the input so far. Please keep on voting. We need a larger sample. Can we get to 100 or more? I want to take this thread/poll and show it to the dealer when he gives me the "could not duplicate" line.
    nj1266,
    I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish. In the time it takes for folks to respond to this poll, you could just go grease the propeller shaft and be done with it - or pay to get it greased (I think my dealer charges less than $20). What are you trying to accomplish?
    ~Glenn
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    "To err is human. To arrr is pirate."

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    Originally posted by nhparrot


    nj1266,
    I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish. In the time it takes for folks to respond to this poll, you could just go grease the propeller shaft and be done with it - or pay to get it greased (I think my dealer charges less than $20). What are you trying to accomplish?
    I was under the impression that it is more involved than you state. I have a 4X2 not a 4X4 and the thump/clunk comes form the area where the shaft enters the tranny. Right? So you have to pull the drive shaft from the tranny and grease the splines. Am I correct? Doesn't that involve a lot of time. If it is as simple as you say it is, then tell me how to do it

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    Since, you ask. As you can see in the above diagram of the 2wd propeller/driveshaft there are no grease fittings. In servicing the 2wd drive unit the maintenance manual only calls for coating the splines of the intermediate shaft with MP grease during the reassembly of the shafts

    To do that you need to:
    [list=1][*]REMOVE PROPELLER SHAFT [*]SEPARATE PROPELLER SHAFT AND INTERMEDIATE SHAFT[*]GREASE SPLINE[*]CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT AND INTERMEDIATE SHAFT [*]INSTALL PROPELLER SHAFT[*]ADJUST CENTER SUPPORT BEARING [/list=1]
    ~Glenn
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    "To err is human. To arrr is pirate."

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    Gee, I couldn't really respond. Mine clunks once a week or so. That response wasn't one of the choices.

    As a result, I've put lubin' the thing pretty far down on my list, but someday I'll get around to it.
    Larry Lawton
    Retired in Wyoming
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    Default Here's why your driveline clunks

    Hi, I'm from the tacoma board. I've got a BSME, but a lot of this was explained to me by my friend I will say.

    The reason your truck 'thumps' is not becasue of your driveline or that your driveline needs to be lubed, the reason is instead becasue of your auto transmission.

    With your automatic you are always in gear and the engine is always trying to drive the rear wheels and therefore is under torque is always being applied to the rear wheels, axle, and leaf springs.

    When you start breaking you're applying a force to slow down the truck, BUT the transmission is still trying to rotate the axle the opposite way.

    As the truck slows down the transmission will do what it's supposed to do...it will select a lower gear for higher torque. Just before you stop the transmission will select 1st gear for MAXIMUM TORQUE. At this point the driver is probably on the brakes relatively hard. Both forces are still being applied in opposite directions but suddenly the transmission applies maximum torque to the driveline...something is gonna give! 8^)

    The "thump" that you hear/feel is the suspension reacting to the sudden shock loading of the downshift. This really is normal (the dealer isn't BSing you), but it is annoying at times.

    The only way to solve the issue is to make a less capable or less comfortable truck...either reduce line pressure in the tranny, which would increase slippage and heat and reduce durability and reliability or stiffen the rear springs which, but for Joe Consumer it makes for an "uncomfortable truck-like" ride.

  12. #11
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    Default Lurching/Clunk/Thunk

    I've got 32K miles on my 00' 4x4 and have had some degree of lurching coming to/from a stop for all but the 1st 5K miles. The lurch started out subtle then got nasty and occurred on every stop. Toyota techs turned to all the brake related TSBs to fix it but despite all the work to the front and rear brakes the problems persisted until I got smart via this site. I lubed the rear shaft slip yoke (unique to 4x4) and bingo the lurch was decidedly less frequent and less pronounced but it wasn't lurch free like the first 5K. Why? The splines of the slip yoke were damaged from dry operation (it apparently wasn't lubricated properly at the factory) and no type or amount of lube seems to eliminate the problem. It doesn't take much damage to the splines to cause a problem because the yoke needs to translate freely while transmitting torque. This experience is not unique to my truck. Other owners at this site have had the rear drive shaft (which features the slip yoke) replaced by Toyota under warranty. I've not been so lucky. I have written to the President of Customer relations (see attached) who, so far, he has chosen not to respond. Therefore, I'm submitting my case for arbitration. There seems to be alot Tundras out there that don't lurch - including mine for the first 5,000 miles. Based on my experience, I can't accept that this is normal and inherent to the drive train design. If you've got a thunker, you might consider what I found with a simple test. I removed the 4 bolts at the differential to free the shaft (made a witness mark 1st) and twisted the shaft by hand while you translating it. Did it move freely while torqued? No. It had a binding problem. If yours binds like mine, even a little, think about how it will respond in the presense of the normal torque levels. Then check out the rippling and generally worn condition of the splines due to dry operation. Furthermore, slip-yoke binding seems to be consistent with the thunk reduction/elimination reported by those who have installed anti-sway bars. The sway bar installation, in addition to its intended purposed, effectively stiffens the rear end which provides a greater force for overcoming the binding in the yoke.

  13. #12
    Junior Member CATiger's Avatar
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    Thought this might help, even though it is not specific to Tundras. Here is an excerpt from 4x4wire:

    Do you have driveline "clunk"?
    I've found that my '94 Extracab with the stock rear suspension tends to buck, or "clunk", when coming to or taking off from a stop. After following endless discussions on this topic, which seems to be common among Toyota owners, I found that the clunk is the end result of 3 causes: 1) "soft" leaf springs which allow the pinion to pivot when 2) the rear brakes are in need of adjustment and 3) the rear slip yoke is in need of grease. If the rear brakes are out of spec, or the rear proportioning valve is not set properly, the front brakes will be the primary stopping force, while the "soft" or worn leafs allow the pinion to move and thereby extend the slip yoke. As soon as the clunk appears, I check the rear brake adjustment (read Scott Wilson's rear brake article) and pump the yoke full of grease, taking care not to over-fill the rear driveshaft and damage any seals. Of course, some aftermarket lift springs or considerable power upgrades can also cause the pinion to pivot (also known as spring wrap), which would require other remedies.

    click here to go to 4x4wire maintenance for toyotas
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  14. #13
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    Default Re: Lurching/Clunk/Thunk

    Originally posted by Corky
    Why? The splines of the slip yoke were damaged from dry operation (it apparently wasn't lubricated properly at the factory) and no type or amount of lube seems to eliminate the problem. It doesn't take much damage to the splines to cause a problem because the yoke needs to translate freely while transmitting torque.
    If you had it lubed properly (that's a big if) in the first 6 months (moil change), I doubt that your splines are damaged. However even with quite a bit of normal grease, it still will clunk (more so on a quick brake after applying the gas moderately.

    I greased it with some slick 50 grease and it still had the issue. Premium grease, but still just grease. The clunking was dimished though.

    I finally got rid of the clunk though. In doing my 30,000 mile maintenance I went with amsoil lubes and greases.

    Turns out that a couple of squirts of Amsoil moly fortified grease solved the trick. I used it on all the zirk joints since I didn't want to screw around with two grease guns.

    Within a couple miles I found that the splines were sliding much better and my klunk is gone. I've lubed it well quite a few time over the past 30k miles, but it wasn't until I went to moly synthetic that it went away.

    You probably could use another synthetic and get the same results, but make sure that you use one that has moly in it. I don't know that mobil 1 does, but Redline might.

    Anyway, I went with Amsoil because they have a couple grades with and without moly. Moly everwhere is overkill, but won't hurt so I just used everywhere. It did finally get rid of my clunking sound though.

    It still does clunk a tiny amount (not even noticeable unless you're specifically waiting for it), but it's really minimal and you DEFINITELY don't have to turn back after a quick stop and look - "Did that guy just rearend me?" The synthetic grease solved the issue. I assume permanently.

    Moly is important for if you go too long between greasings. It provides dry lube to the joint.

    alan

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    Default Normal? - Don't think so - why?

    First, thanks for the feedback. I'm not against using other than the specified lubes. Neither is my dealer, apparenty, since they used anti-sieze compound to try to address a problem that they considered "normal". I can't accept this lurch is normal because my truck was 100% thunk free for about 5k miles. Do leaf springs weaken that quickly? I hope not. This normal idea is also inconsistent with the fact that there is a mix of some trucks that do and some that don't. The technician reported to me that the Sequoia lurches too - does it even have leaf springs? By the way, I understand that the Ford 4x4 Service Manual identifies one and only one cause for this behavior, a worn slip yoke. Doesn't really matter though, seeing is believing. I've taken a first had look at my slip-yoke splines. I am certain that the factory oversight of slip-yoke lubrication is in part or if not completely the cause of my current problem. Anyone familiar with the shortcomings of the zerk fitting lubrication of the yoke will understand how this oversight could have happened. It appears that the Toyota's revised service approach to lubrication is to "separate" the yoke by disconnecting the drive shaft from the differential followed by direct application of lubrication to the splines(Toyota's lube of choice appears to range from anti-seize compound to Ford's drive-line grease).

    I'm clearly disappointed with Toyota but still have hope but just a little bit. I met a 2000 4x4 Tundra owner over the weekend. His truck lurches and has a severe rear end hop. He had replaced his tires to try to fix the hop and was going to take the new ones back because the truck was still hopping and he thought they too were out of balance. Had Toyota informed him, and others I assume, of the rear brake problems that lead to drum warp, they would have saved him, time & money - not to mention the fact that a hopping rear end is a safety hazard. The cheap fixes tend to be the ones that Toyota is interested in acknowledging. Case in point is the dip stick and the tow harness power converter.

  16. #15
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    2WD V8 Tundra and no drivetrain problems like that!

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