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This is a discussion thread titled "Best Headers", within the Polls forum, part of the Off-Topic category.
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, Kleinn Pro Series 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
__________________
03' Access Cab Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L, 4x4
305/70/16 BFG Muds on 4" B/S Wheelers' Offroad Steel Rims
Donahoe Racing Coilovers (cranked 2.5")
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms and Rack Bushings.
Bilstien 5100 rears'
ARB Sahara Bumper with Fog Light Kit and KC SlimLites in Front
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 87 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
Pretty funny, people spend $1000 on a Uni-Chip and that needs FINE tuning: Dyno runs, Air/fuel Ratio tests to get appropriate A/B maps and then needs: Premium 91+ octane. And yields 22-28 max HP for the Tundra. So is getting Imports to have more power cheap, simply NO.
For people that have that money its worth it
A TRD S/C creates 50% more horsepower about 120 hp max and runs $3500-4000
For the cash to rake in the actual dyno proven HP/TQ ratings I would spend $1400 to get 35-40HP and 45-60 lbs-ft TQ. extra from the headers for a F-150 5.4L motor as what the Tundra will get would be similiar.
S&S longtubes proved to have massive gains over any other headers. But for $908.25 using mild steel/coating them, using NON OBD II compatible CATS , and crappy welds/bad sales people. The S&S longtubes have a downfall for quality and making them last in certain and harsher environments: Salt/clay mud. They rust I don't want rusting headers and then having to go through the pain of taking them off later to get them coated again and having a nightmare of putting them back on again resulting in AGONY. 908+ PITA install/ recoating in 1-3 years = more money spent.
Look at what 321 stainless costs per ft. at the 1 5/8" , All 321 stainless steel header flanges/ 4 to 1 exhaust collectors/ and all the lengths per ft after that. Alone true ODB II CATS are expensive. Do some homework and then you'll know its expensive.
If you can't I'll provide links later but I've done mine and it aint CHEAP.
__________________
03' Access Cab Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L, 4x4
305/70/16 BFG Muds on 4" B/S Wheelers' Offroad Steel Rims
Donahoe Racing Coilovers (cranked 2.5")
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms and Rack Bushings.
Bilstien 5100 rears'
ARB Sahara Bumper with Fog Light Kit and KC SlimLites in Front
Pretty funny, people spend $1000 on a Uni-Chip and that needs FINE tuning: Dyno runs, Air/fuel Ratio tests to get appropriate A/B maps and then needs: Premium 91+ octane. And yields 22-28 max HP for the Tundra. So is getting Imports to have more power cheap, simply NO.
For people that have that money its worth it
A TRD S/C creates 50% more horsepower about 120 hp max and runs $3500-4000
For the cash to rake in the actual dyno proven HP/TQ ratings I would spend $1400 to get 35-40HP and 45-60 lbs-ft TQ. extra from the headers for a F-150 5.4L motor as what the Tundra will get would be similiar.
S&S longtubes proved to have massive gains over any other headers. But for $908.25 using mild steel/coating them, using NON OBD II compatible CATS , and crappy welds/bad sales people. The S&S longtubes have a downfall for quality and making them last in certain and harsher environments: Salt/clay mud. They rust I don't want rusting headers and then having to go through the pain of taking them off later to get them coated again and having a nightmare of putting them back on again resulting in AGONY. 908+ PITA install/ recoating in 1-3 years = more money spent.
Look at what 321 stainless costs per ft. at the 1 5/8" , All 321 stainless steel header flanges/ 4 to 1 exhaust collectors/ and all the lengths per ft after that. Alone true ODB II CATS are expensive. Do some homework and then you'll know its expensive.
I did my homework and found the JBA headers delivered the best bolt on bang for the money.
They show no signs of wear and tear. The performance gains are real and I did not have to modify or ad anything else.
I did my homework and found the JBA headers delivered the best bolt on bang for the money.
They show no signs of wear and tear. The performance gains are real and I did not have to modify or ad anything else.
JBAs = The best for less.
Did I mention JBA's or thrash on them , by no means did I ever!
And yeah hard homework. You've bought something already made and produced and looked over dyno charts or the websites/brochures, etc.
Try researching construction methods and a using a reputable company. Then using a network of people to gain attention and having commitments from all. I'm just going after something myself and others here want, not just alone the, "I need and buy method"
__________________
03' Access Cab Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L, 4x4
305/70/16 BFG Muds on 4" B/S Wheelers' Offroad Steel Rims
Donahoe Racing Coilovers (cranked 2.5")
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms and Rack Bushings.
Bilstien 5100 rears'
ARB Sahara Bumper with Fog Light Kit and KC SlimLites in Front
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, Kleinn Pro Series 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
What's the difference between Stainless Steel, Ceramic Coated, Titanium, etc.
Is one better than the others? Should I stay away from one or the other?
something to do with the coating and how well it holds up to heat. i wouldnt see a problem with stainless steel...it might turn alittle brownish but not much....ceramic or titanium would never turn. Im pretty sure what i just said is right
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 87 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
something to do with the coating and how well it holds up to heat. i wouldnt see a problem with stainless steel...it might turn a little brownish but not much....ceramic or titanium would never turn. Im pretty sure what i just said is right
So I could get by with regular Stainless Steel and save money? Will SS last as long as ceramic or titanium?
I don't care about it turning color. Like granddaddy used to say, "It don't have to look good; it just has to go fast."
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, Kleinn Pro Series 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
Best Headers
J B A
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