DIY Electrical system advice sought

[pmatejcek]

I have a 2006 V-6 RAV4, and I intend to add a trailer hitch and wiring over the next couple of days. (Parts arrived in two business days from etrailer.com.)

I’m considering making the ‘convenience outlets’ (erstwhile cigarette lighters) hot all the time – that would allow me to get the 12 volts for my trailer lighting module from the oh-so-conveniently located outlet at the back, on the driver’s side.

I don’t have a wiring diagram of the vehicle. Is anybody out there so familiar with the electrics of this vehicle that they can advise me on this? It *seems* like a sane approach. Even if I were to add a fused connection directly to the battery and snake the wire into the cabin, and then find and cut the line to the outlet(s) and splice it hot, that might be WAY less work than removing all those plastic panels to snake a wire forward from the trailer module.

What do you think?

Paul in East Troy WI

[bobstcyr]

I've installed the hitch under an 06 RAV..... the quickst easiest approach - uner the car..... hitch installed in 10 minutes, wiring in a half an hour..... hope you got the T-One connector with the isolator module for $54 or so.....

[SE2000]

If you can do the t connector that would be easy. If you go the power outlet route, you don't have to change anything. You only need trailer power when the vehicle is on so you don't have to rewire. I did my Lexus this way
If you want a constant power, why not run a fused wire under the vehicle to the back tywrapped to an existing loom?

[pmatejcek]

Thanks for you responses, Bob and SE2000.

I’m using a T-connector rig from etrailier.com. Sadly, it does not include a plug that simply connects to one of the electrical panels in the RAV. Had I realized the implications of this, I might have decided to use genuine Toyota. Now that it is installed, I don’t think I’ll be ripping it out! But I still have at least one challenge.

I didn’t think that running the wire outside the vehicle was a good idea, so I ran it under all the internal trim. Getting the power wire from the trailer module to the battery was difficult, but it is done.

It’s working perfectly, but I’d like to move the wire that picks up the power for the module. Can anybody tell me a good, safe place get the 12v under the dash? …or from the driver’s side under-hood fuse box? Is there a connector that I can buy? Or a way to install a ‘fuse extender’ somwhere?

I have an additional problem with the battery connector. There is a stud on the positive battery connector, where wires are attached. I cannot get the nut off the stud. If I really muscle it, the whole clamp just turns on the battery post. Any suggestions for getting that nut off without damaging the clamp?

In the interim, I put the ring terminal under the head of the nut on the clamp pinchbolt. Not elegant, but effective. I was delighted when I got home, connected to the trailer, and it all worked flawlessly.

This morning I will tow my boat with the RAV4 for the first time – I can’t wait to see how it handles and brakes. [It was supposed to happen last night. But there was a snafu with my wife’s Corolla purchase and the C.A.R.S. paperwork, and we had to go to the dealer to create a new contract. With luck, we’ll be a 2-Toyota family soon!]

Thanks again for you help!

Paul in East Troy WI

[SE2000]

When I did my Lexus, I used a blade fuse pigtail from NAPA to supply power. I ran it to an isolation module so it would not draw on the vehicle lights. It's been working for many many years. Easy to do and cheap.
Does toyota even offer a 7 pin for your vehicle? If so you may have gotten sticker shock. The kit for the Tundra is over $300

[richkcmo]

nice topic. i guess i'll be learning lots of things here.

[SE2000]

welcome rich. you should srart a intro thread and tell us what you are driving