You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
RAV4General discussion forum for the Toyota RAV4.
This is a discussion thread titled "2000 rav hard start?", within the RAV4 forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
A couple of months ago I got a call from my wife that her 2000 Rav4, auto, 50k miles would crank over but not start. Cranking speed was OK and the battery votage checked OK when cranking, terminals clean/tight. I then tried to jump start the Rav from my Taco, same thing. After a couple of trys I was able to get it to start by giving it some throttle but it was having a hard time running, almost like it was bogging down. To much or to little gas had the same result. In a minute or two the engine settled down and ran normaly.
After letting it run for five minutes I shut it down and it started up fine. Since the battery was five years old I replaced it the next day and have had no problems untill yesterday when the same thing happend. This time she rememberd how I started it the last time and was able to get it going by giving it about 1/2 trottle for a few seconds. Started fine after it was brought home. I don't think it is the fuel filter or voltage related, maybe something in the cold start circuit? Any ideas where to start looking?
whens the last time your wifes ride had a tune up? might be ready for one. check the s-plugs for fouling or wear. i suspect the cold start injector too, but on as many toyotas as ive had, ive never encountered a problem with that area. check your air filter too might need to be blown out with compressed air. make sure you havent sucked up a bird in the air inlet. i just found a segmented parrot in my engine compartment, eeewe what a mess, havent a clue how it got there.
__________________
MODS: TRD urban package - tint, stereo, jack-in-the box antennae ball, my middle finger.
...And as a matter of fact, i cant spell.
The plugs and air filter were replaced less than 5k ago but I'll check them anyway. I've had a bunch of Toyotas in the last 15 years as well but this is the first one that has failed to start. 99.9% of the time its starts OK. I'll start with cleaning the throttle body and looking at the IAC valve. Maybe hook up an OBDII and check for stored codes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42GAMI
whens the last time your wifes ride had a tune up? might be ready for one. check the s-plugs for fouling or wear. i suspect the cold start injector too, but on as many toyotas as ive had, ive never encountered a problem with that area. check your air filter too might need to be blown out with compressed air. make sure you havent sucked up a bird in the air inlet. i just found a segmented parrot in my engine compartment, eeewe what a mess, havent a clue how it got there.
Make sure the wires going down to the crank position sensor on the front of the engine are not damaged. I would also check the CIRCUIT OPEN RELAY, it controls the fuel pump.
Here's a few things to help check it.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
I'm having the same problem with my 98 Rav4 (just under 85K miles.) Just so I can narrow down what you may think it is... I've had the transmission pressure flushed, regular oil changes with synthetic blend, replaced the water pump (it was leaking), replaced the fuel filter, the battery (with one of those nice glass core ones), spark plugs AND wires and air filter. I normally would ask my dad, but he passed away last May. I'm really at a loss! I've put over a grand into it. I need help please.
I bought my 2000 RAV4 August 1. Two days later, when I left for work, it would not start. It sounded like it wanted to turn-over but as soon as I let go of the key, it died. The engine light was not on and no codes could be located. It's a 5 speed so I put it in neutral and held the gas pedal down for about 10 seconds before attempting to see if it would stay running. It stayed running and I didn't have further problems until the other day when I left work. It started but immediately stalled. I tried to start it again and it wouldn't start. I again put it in neutral, held the gas down and started it that way. I held the gas pedal down for about 5 seconds before releasing to see if it would stay running. It did. I have contacted the dealer where I bought it and they are telling me that the RAV 4 is known to having flooding problems. They are telling me to run better gas in it and try dry gas in the event I either got a "bad" batch of gas or moisture in it. They are also telling me to make sure that I am holding the key long enough when starting it. I am not sure I am being given accurate information or being treated this way because I am a woman. Any ideas?
It took my mechanic a while to actually figure out what was happening. They couldn't get it to replicate the problem I was telling them about, and I ended up having to leave the Rav overnight for it to happen. Sure enough, it happened. There is a smaller pump which feeds the fuel pump in order to get it going. That smaller pump (I can't remember the name) was done. The only reason it was still supplying the initial start-up charge needed is because there was some gunk that was acting as lubricant to get it going. Long story short and almost two grand later we figured it out.
It does sound like a fuel pump issue. I would recommend to run the gas dry as well. Put in some high octane gas (or a medium grade plus a bottle of fuel system cleaner) call a friend to follow you and take it to a highway where you can cycle it through the gears as needed. This will clean your fuel injectors and keep your motor going hard enough to push through some of the cleaner.
The next morning try to start it and see if that helped. If not, I think it sounds a lot like what I went through.
Try this and get back to us.
I put the dry gas in it last night. I had already tried the fuel injection cleaner with the last fill-up. I have a 30 day bumper to bumper on the car and one more incident and they get it back to fix. I'll do as they say but am not letting the 30 days run out and then I pay out of pocket. Thanks for your help and I'll let you know how I make out. I have vacation coming up and A LOT of running to do and I pray it doesn't leave me sitting somewhere!
Quote:
Originally Posted by silentinseattle
It took my mechanic a while to actually figure out what was happening. They couldn't get it to replicate the problem I was telling them about, and I ended up having to leave the Rav overnight for it to happen. Sure enough, it happened. There is a smaller pump which feeds the fuel pump in order to get it going. That smaller pump (I can't remember the name) was done. The only reason it was still supplying the initial start-up charge needed is because there was some gunk that was acting as lubricant to get it going. Long story short and almost two grand later we figured it out.
It does sound like a fuel pump issue. I would recommend to run the gas dry as well. Put in some high octane gas (or a medium grade plus a bottle of fuel system cleaner) call a friend to follow you and take it to a highway where you can cycle it through the gears as needed. This will clean your fuel injectors and keep your motor going hard enough to push through some of the cleaner.
The next morning try to start it and see if that helped. If not, I think it sounds a lot like what I went through.
Try this and get back to us.
TundraSolutions.com is a registered trademark of Tundra Solutions, Inc.
Other trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the TundraSolutions.com User Agreement and Privacy Policy.