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RAV4General discussion forum for the Toyota RAV4.
This is a discussion thread titled "Maintenance doubt", within the RAV4 forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
i've been doing the research for the last 36 years.
"dry starts" is something you hear on tv commercials.
doesn't happen in real life.
that "brown" you are getting is from not changing the oil enough.
yspert
I should clarify - How bout 3 sec gulp of air going through the system.
I used to prefill my filter cartridge AND prime the system. Priming the system is harder these days (than just grounding the coil wire) I Imagine it involves pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay and running the FI dry BEFORE changing the oil. Thats sound like it might cause trouble in itself!
My wife does mainly highway at 60 -70 MPH and 32miles one way 5Days/week. I reduce the OCI to 4K lesse whahappans
A number of years ago CONSUMER REPORTS magazine did a 2 year study on engine oil , see any magazine index for year/month, and they concluded that as long as the oil meet SAE and API standards set in your owners manual and you followed the change pattern in the manual, that there wasn't much difference between oil. They were NOT impressed by synthetic unless need for extreme cold and heat problems. I read yspert comments with interest, since I used some of the oil he doesn't recomend? I just traded a 97 V-6 Camry with the know engine sludge problem bought used in 4-02 with 35,000 mi. and in 4 years and 7 months put an additional 100,000 miles on it. I changed the oil every 3,000 mi with dino and 5,000 with synthetic. Used Wal-mart oil quite a bit and the oils yspert doesn't recommend with no ill effect. The car and engine was in top shape and was confident I could have gotten over 200,000 miles easy. All fluid on this vehicle were changed yearly except for PS fluid and had to replace the rack because of blown outer seal. Wish I replaced the PS fluid the new fluid might have keep the seals more plyable. No disrespect to yspert intended.
The only bad thing about changing oil too often is wasted money. But your engine will love it!
Anywhere in the 3000 to 5000 mile range is OK unless you drive a lot in dusty areas or very hot weather conditions or lots of stop & go city driving.
All of the big name oils are fine but after the first 10,000 miles or so, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple or Quaker State Q will baby your engine even more.
Yes, all fluids should be changed at appropriate intervals, even brake fluid throughout the entire brake system.
The Rav4 is an excellent vehicle and gets the highest reliability rating from Consumer Reports. Taking good care of it will get you many, many miles of trouble-free driving.
I thought this might be of interest. In an article about the sludge-prone Toyota (2.2 & 3.0L), Chrysler, Saab & Audi engines, Consumer reports says:
"CR also recommends that owners of vehicles with sludge-prone engines use an American Petroleum Institute-approved synthetic motor oil or change oil according to the “extreme use” schedule in the vehicle's manual.
Synthetics have a higher tolerance for extreme heat and flow better in cold temperatures. When using any oil, be sure it meets manufacturer viscosity guidelines."
Personally, I go with what the manufacturer recommends. My Nissan called for 3750 mile intervals and that's when it got changed, using the cheapest oil I could find with the Petroleum Institute certification grade specified by Nissan. I also stuck with a Nissan filter. The 4 cyl. is well over 200,000 miles w/ out any problems.
I also picked up an 04 Taco, 2.7L. WIth this one, I use either a Toyota filter or a Purolator Pure One and Wal-mart synthetic 5W-30 @ $13.28 for a 5 qt. jug. Since the Toyota intervals are 5000 miles, I figured I'd upgrade to the Wal-mart synthetic, which really doesn't cost more than some name brand dino oils. It's still early, but no complaints, yet.
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