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SiennaGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Sienna.
This is a discussion thread titled "Sienna sliding door problem", within the Sienna forum, part of the Cars & Vans Forums category.
I have a 2000 sienna with 130k miles on it. The right side power sliding door has a problem. It was acting like there was something preventing the door from closing for some time. What I mean by that was that when I tried to close the door it would move about 6 inches then reopen, like it would hit something. I could manually close the door just fine if I turned the master switch off. I did the "reset" procedure and now it just makes a clicking noise when I try to close the door. If I manually close the door it will power back open just fine when I turn the master switch back on. If I try to close the door manually the motor kicks in immediately and opens the door. I've have the problem intermittently over the last 4 years but it became so bad that I just have to operate the door manually all the time now. There are so many horror stories about spending many hundreds of dollars at the dealer without the problem being fixed that I really am resisting that approach. Besides I am pretty handy and feel that I can replace parts myself. Anyone have any ideas?
It needs a Right SLIDE DOOR ECU, it is a very common problem.
Its fairly easy to change yourself.
PM me if interested
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | Nurf Bars | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official Donahoe Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Hi. 1st time on this site. Looking for help on 2002 Sienna right power sliding door. Sounds like I have the same problem as described here. Fails to shut, but will open using power door switch. I've tried the reset, but got no change. I'm getting ready to pull the interior cover to get access to the motor & ECU. Must I change out the ECU, or could it be just a switch or contact problem since the motor still turns to open, but doesn't reverse to close? Any pics of the ECU out there so I make sure I pull the right part? Any idea of the price range for this ECU.
Hi. 1st time on this site. Looking for help on 2002 Sienna right power sliding door. Sounds like I have the same problem as described here. Fails to shut, but will open using power door switch. I've tried the reset, but got no change. I'm getting ready to pull the interior cover to get access to the motor & ECU. Must I change out the ECU, or could it be just a switch or contact problem since the motor still turns to open, but doesn't reverse to close? Any pics of the ECU out there so I make sure I pull the right part? Any idea of the price range for this ECU.
It needs a Right SLIDE DOOR ECU, it is a very common problem.
Its fairly easy to change yourself.
PM me if interested
I know of no picx, unless someone here ar TS has taken some of their replacement.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | Nurf Bars | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official Donahoe Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Thanks, saw some of your other replies on this subject & they helped. Couldn't figure out how to get door motor out of the way after unbolting it since it still had fore & aft cable lines attached. I finally got the ECU out but had to also unbolt the rear A/C blower motor & duct to squeeze it out. Next step is to get taken to the cleaners when buying the replacement.
Hi, I've used the reset several times and cleared my problem. Now that won't work the door closes but won't open. I'm guessing its the ECU. I've had the motor out and cleaned all the plastic sheathing that pealed off and got stuck in the cabel shield. My question is where is the ECU?
Hi, I've used the reset several times and cleared my problem. Now that won't work the door closes but won't open. I'm guessing its the ECU. I've had the motor out and cleaned all the plastic sheathing that pealed off and got stuck in the cabel shield. My question is where is the ECU?
It is here. (see attachment)
The optical sensor circuit in the ECU is usually what goes bad.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | Nurf Bars | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official Donahoe Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
K.I.S.S.
Last edited by mustang67408; 03-24-2008 at 12:06 PM.
The cable, which pulls the door tangled inside the motor assembly and broke. It is in a 2002 Toyota and the motor has already been replaced once (obviously after the warranty expired). It has been 2.5 years since then.
The motor is OK. I had to open the panels and cut the cable to make the door operational at least in manual mode.
It looks like that when the dealer replaced the motor in 2005 he didn't adjust the tension properly. I notice that the cable was a bit loose, but didn't really pay enough attention since the door worked.
From other discussions I got an impression that the cable CAN NOT be purchased separately from the entire motor assembly. Does anyone has the procedure (instructions) on how to replace the assembly?
I've had intermitant problems like this on my 05. I've found that sometimes it seems to be a confusion with the door locking system. If I lock then unlock all doors the problem seems to resolve itself.