Hi i took my 01 sienna to a/z to get the ecu scanned after the cel came on.It came up with a po0133 front bank o2 sensor so i replaced the one in the exh manifold.I disconnected the batt for 15 minutes and the cel came back on! So i took it back to A/Z and now it comes up withpo1135 "Management controlled fuel&air metering.Where is the A/F sensor located.? I thought the a/f sensor and o2 sensor where the same?Would cleaning the MAF sesor help? Thanks Mike
I don't see a P0135 (or P0133) listed in the factory manual as an engine code. Please note that on a Toyota there IS a difference between an oxygen sensor (the only "oxygen sensor" is the one in the pipe near the converter) and an "air/fuel ratio sensor", which is a wideband oxygen sensor. There are two of these, located near each exhaust manifold.
If you read a P1135, then that is an air/fuel sensor heater circuit malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 1. This is the A/F sensor located on the bank near the firewall, NOT the front of the car.
(Is it possible that the first code you read was P1133, which would be A/F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 1? Same sensor, different problem, but replacing it would fix both issues.)
Be very careful when buying something from anyone other than Toyota to replace an air/fuel ratio sensor. Autozone (and others) will be glad to sell you an "oxygen sensor" for the application, at a cost of maybe $80, but it WILL NOT WORK. (Ask me how I know.) Toyota went to a 50-state emission build during the 2001 model year, and most or all 2001-up Siennas require the A/F ratio sensor. The car's engine control module knows the difference and the code(s) will persist. The correct sensors list for at least $200 each; I found one for about $153.
Removing the sensor is not especially easy. You must have an oxygen sensor wrench which is a crowfoot type. That allows you to fish it through the maze between the firewall and the engine, then use a small breaker bar and extension on the wrench. The most difficult part of the job is actually disconnecting the electrical connector and all I can say is to try from both top and bottom. You have to work by feel from the top. Jack up the front of the minivan and remove the driver's side wheel. Using the tool with a small breaker bar and extension, you can crack the sensor loose (on my wife's car, once it broke loose it could be turned out by hand). I fortunately have long arms, thin fingers, and am not overweight, so I was able to reach through the opening from the wheelwell (with the steering turned the right way) and spin out the sensor. Installation is much easier.
OK,
1. First Toyota Parts sells real toyota parts, for less than some fake brand at Autozone. I got the part.
2. I sprayed with liquid wrench, and tried using an adjustable wrench - it is really hard to get any leverage with your arm extended all the way into the engine bay. Hunting for pipe to fit over the end of the wrench...
3. I'm giving the liquid wrench overnight, otherwise I'm off to sears and pick up a 7/8 crowfoot wrench...
I think you're going to find it nearly impossible to remove the A/F sensor with an adjustable wrench. The right tool is a crowfoot-type oxygen sensor wrench. This wrench has a split in it to fit over the wire and a square hole to admit the extension of a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar. The technique is to fish this through the maze, fit it over the sensor at the right orientation (so that your extension has a straight shot), and break the sensor loose with a breaker bar. In my case, after it broke loose, I could spin it out with my fingers.
Success:
I bought a set of hex crecent wrenches from sears. Very nice, 35 bucks.
Was 7/8 on one end, 3/4 on the other. I used a spark plug sockets to fill the 3/4 end, which I attached to my 2 ft breaker bar. Just right...
Note: You need to break the sensor loose from the drivers side wheel. To disconnect the wire, you need to take off the passenger wheel.
Note2: Study the wire plug first, since you will have to press the little release for the socket blind.
Old plug looked very rusty, will have to see if I can post and link some pictures...
Well, I'm off to autozone to see if the code went away.
I had p1135 on my '01 Sienna. Found an OEM part on ebay for $135 (shipped). Was able to get my left arm and 22mm open end wrench through the gap near the left front suspension to the aft sensor. Out and in in under 10 minutes. Problem fixed.
Had the A/F sensor replaced on Thursday, one by firewall P1135 code.
They also installed the pvc valve for me
All went well except for the $290 bill, that was a little over the top, but mama does not have to look at the service engine light.
They also cleaned the rear brake drums, had the new heavy drums installed about 5 months ago and they worked great until about one month ago, then started making the brake noise again.
What fixed the noise, cleaning the brake dust out of drums, same fix as I used when I had the old lighter weight drums.
So based on my experience, do not waste money ($300) on heavier drums, will not be a final fix to rear brake noise.
Only final fix is trade van for one with disc brakes on rear.
Hey, but other than that old van runs, drives like a top and she is paid for,
Saw a few new vans on lot for close to $40K,
Dealership had on lot, two Yaris, no Prius and about 40 big Tundra pickups. Bet they wish they could cut the Trunda's into and make two Yaris's.
Also noted the Yaris models had an additional cost sticker added to window sticker, looked like price increase over sticker.
Code p0135 now p1135
Linear Mode
