We are now selling AMI fuel door lids for the Tundra's call or pm me for pricing, available in different finishes and lockable.


http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/members/toyotaterritory/albums/trd-162/ami-fuel-doors-6196.jpg

How do they attach? Do they replace the existing fuel door using an adhesive?

:ts:

I have one on my truck. You remove and replace the whole fuel door assembly. Really like mine looks sharp.

Pictures istalled?

Pictures istalled?

What he said.

What he said.

click on Nitro's gallery......

Pictures istalled?


What he said.

The Raisin has one on his truck, check it >>> http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/146825-pics-from-yesterdays-trip/ big pics towards the end of the thread.

What stlye/color for a timberline?

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/members/stanton49/albums/tundra+body+mods-825/img00018-6230.jpg

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/members/stanton49/albums/tundra+body+mods-825/img00020-6231.jpg

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/members/stanton49/albums/tundra+body+mods-825/img00022-6232.jpg

Are these just for the newer tundra? Or do they have some that fit the gen1?:ts:

Are these just for the newer tundra? Or do they have some that fit the gen1?:ts:

Right now they only have applications for Tundra and FJ.

FYI, here are pics of the polished chrome one I just installed.
My Fuel Door Piccs (http://gallery.mac.com/kelleherk/100097)

Installation Overview:
1. Open stock fuel door and remove 4 black sheet metal screws. These original screws will not be used in the new installation.
2. The fuel door assembly comes completely out. Assembly includes the original fuel door and the black plastic housing and door hinge assembly behind it.
3. Remove the original fuel door and gas cap tether from the black housing.
4. CUT off, flush to flat surface, the 2 rubber bumpers on the right side of the housing with a sharp knife. The original door rested on these when it was closed.
5. Reinstall the housing.
6. Install custom bracket with provided sheet metal screws on right side of housing. This bracket is what required the removal of the rubber bumpers and this bracket provides the machine threaded holes for the final 2 right screws for the billet door assembly.
7. The billet door assembly is attached using 2 countersunk machine screws on the right going into the custom bracket. On the left, 2 longer machine screws fix the billet assembly into the original 2 holes on the left. Now this is the part that is unsatisfactory. The original holes are plastic lugs designed for self-threading sheet metal screws. So the machine screws fit snugly in there, but actually cannot be tightened. In effect they are just sitting there. The two machine screws on the right are the ones that are really holding the billet door assembly securely to the truck. I may, when I get time, see if I can get washers and nuts on the back of those if I can get access by removing the black wheel well housing nearby.

In the final result, of the 6 screws on the circular frame of the billet door assembly, the 2 right-most ones are very secure. The left 2 are just snug press-fit into original plastic female lugs. The top and bottom ones are dummy screws for cosmetic purposes.

All in all, it functions as a lockable door, apparently the only one worthwhile on the market for Tundras currently, and looks good.

bumping up an old thread.

just recently picked up a 2010 dc tundra. is the part number for the ami 6070. i'm looking for the design that kierankelleher has in his pictures. on different websites including ami themselves, they have it as a full circular door design and not with the rectangular tab to the dimpled part.

thanks.

How bout pics of black ones installed on Radiant Red truck???

bump for response to part number

What are the different finishes available?

Mine has the black trim with the chrome insert and is lockable. Looks very nice on my black '07 CM Limited.