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: My process and problems.



LTek1
08-13-2009, 08:29 PM
Did my first full detail of my truck over the past two days. It takes a LONG TIME to do a whole crewmax!

I essentially followed Brandon's tutorial:

901 wash to get started, followed by meguires clay.

I purchased Autogeek's "Intermediate Swirl Remover" kit, hoping the XMT #3 (on an orange cutting pad) would take out the many, many light scratches I have in my truck. It went a long way towards making them look better, but there are plenty I could not get out with that compound.

These are light scratches, can't feel them at all, and can only see them in sideways light. But I was wondering if anyone could recomend a more aggressive compound? It did a really nice job taking out water spots and lessening the appearance of some of the deeper scratches.

Continued on with the XMT #1, which seemed maybe superflous. The #3 didn't leave much micromarring, but I figured I had it, why not use it? I then skipped the XMT glaze and went on to the DG 652.

I don't really know that the 652 did much either. Here is where I started getting tired, and it shows. I missed some spots buffing out the 652, so when I came along with the 105, I sealed in some streaks. I ended up buffing by hand, because I just couldn't seem to get it done with the microfiber bonnets.. they'd just sort of grab the polish and freeze while the PC vibrated. I need to experiment more with between-stage buffing.. it's very frustrating to be buffing out the 'LSP' and realize the streaks you're working on are two layers down.

Finished off with Aquawax and a final hand buff. My shoulder is really sore. :)


This is going to lead to an obsession, I can see. I've already found a niche in the truck to keep a micro and the aquawax.

Here are my notes for everyone to learn from:

1) Start early on a day off. I ended up spending about 7 hours total on my crewmax, and I haven't even cleaned the polish off the trim yet.

2) Take your rings off! Luckily I realized this as I was washing the windshield, not the hood.

3) As mentioned, buff thoroughly between stages. Then use your biggest mirco to whipe the polish dust away.

4) Have a lot of micros. I had a big waffle towel for drying and dusting, and went through 8 smaller ones. One for each product, plus two I dropped on the ground.

5) Be very careful with the hose and PC power cord. I found that running the cord over my shoulder kept it from dragging the ground then dragging grit across the paint.

So now I have a big bucket stuffed with product, and would usually call it a year.. but I think I'm going to do it all over again once someone recomends a better compound!

I'll see about posting some pictures tomorrow, too.

Jumbo Jet
08-14-2009, 05:49 AM
Good story, glad to hear youre hooked :)

For a more aggressive polish that is very easy to work with, I really like the Einszettes line.

I use Einszettes (PP) Paint Polish in the green can for most medium swirls. 1Z Einszett Paint Polish ''Lack Politur'' 500 ml (http://www.pakshak.com/1z-paint-polish-500ml.html) It removes with ease and is a great combo with an orange pad and PC on 4-5.

For stubborn damage I like Einszettes (EPC) Extra Paintwork Cleaner in the yellow can. 1Z Einszett Extra Paintwork Cleaner ''Ultra'' 500 ml (http://www.pakshak.com/1z-extra-paintwork-cleaner-500ml.html) I dont often need to use EPC full strength so I will cut it in half and mix it 50/50 with PP in a little bottle. PC on 4-5 with a yellow or orange pad.

Finish up either combo with Einszettes (MP) Metallic Polish in the red can. 1Z Einszett Metallic PolishWax 500 ml (http://www.pakshak.com/1z-metalic-polishwax-500ml.html) The MP will remove any hazing left from the EPC and leave a nice deep finish. PC on 4 with a white pad. Then top with your favorite sealant.

LTek1
08-14-2009, 10:30 AM
Ugg. I just pulled me truck out into the sunlight for the first time, and the streaking is really bad. You don't notice it hardly at all in the shade, but in the sun it looks somewhat zebra-like.

It changes as you look at the paint from different angles. The unevenness of my handbuffing is pretty painfully obvious. I think it mostly happened on the 652. That was the hardest product to buff out.

I'm going to live with it for now, but then take it down to the paint with Dawn or something and start over again next week.

Brandon1
08-14-2009, 03:14 PM
Yeah, you can use Dawn or Alc/water to take it off. The 652 is a good product, but not required, I'd skip it this time.

shawn74
08-17-2009, 01:48 PM
Practice makes perfect. I had some pretty bad streaking the first time I used my PC. At that time I was using XMT 2, XMT glaze w/ carnuba, and Meguairs Gold Class wax. After some trial and error, product change, and practice, I've been able to cut down my detail time and increase quality. The hardest part for me was knowing how long to work the polish in. At first I didn't work it in long enough, then was doing it to long. That just took practice and once I got it down detailing became more enjoyable. l just did a detail job on black 04 Escalade and both the customer and I were very happy with the results. It was the first time I used Menzera's polishes and now I love them. I used their Intensive Polish and Micro polish. I like them much better than the XMT products I first started with. Nothing against them, but the Menzera gave me more of the results I was looking for. I finished up with Poorboys EX-P sealant and topped that with a coat of their Natty Blue wax.

I would stick with the XMT for a while and to get your technique down and then sample some different products to see what works best for you. Good luck and happy detailing, it can become and obsession!

shawn74
08-17-2009, 01:51 PM
Another tool that might help with seeing the small scratches is a halogen work light. I've heard of other using the new LED flashlights too. That way you can see how things would look in the sunlight while your still working not after you think your all done.