Ok, I am somwhat of a newbe of detailing the exterior of my truck, my first time I did this was Two Months ago with my microfibers and only the Meguires products along with the clay bar I have listed below. It turned out ok but in certain areas and in certain light I have like a bumpy/rippely look to it(hard to explain). It wasn't like that when I clayed atleast i dont think so. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

Anyway, it's an '03 Metalic Blue Highlander with chrome running boards and black roof rack with some marks/light scratches. What will help with these scrathes on that? Perhaps AIO? I also have just a few deep scratches and small pits at the front of the hood from gravel that need to be filled in. I have a mini paint pen/brush that I bought from the Toyota dealer. Is the first step after I strip the wax off with dawn and before claying? Anyone have any tips on applying this?

Wahoo!!!! I have just recieved my autogeek order of various products(thanks Brandon for some product suggestions), but am a bit confused on the application steps mainly for the touch up paint,wax and polish. What are the steps and are there any waiting times between applications? I'm sure I dont need to use everything I have but I want to get the most out of what I do have without being redundant.

What I have is DG 901 wash, DG 652, Meguirs ColorX, Meguires ScratchX(although I have little if any swirl marks), Meguirs NXT2.0, Klasse AIO, Collinite 845, DP Max Wax, Meguirs Quick Spray Wax(Black Bottle), Clay Magic Bar with spray, Simple Green, and Poor Boys Trim Restorer. Do I need anything else as far as polishes or wax's? I certainly hope not but I'm all up for suggestions? I am applying these products by hand(Santa may bring a PC for me) and have all the needed microfiber mitts/towels, waffle weave drying towel and foam pads. I live in Wisc and with winter around the corner(YUK) I want to be protected through that ugly season. So, whatcha pros think?

:ts:
Micky

You have a good list of products, but youre missing one vital piece.... the PC. Polishing by hand is brutal and often yields less impressive results.

I would skip the Dawn wash, its a redundant step if youre claying. Its too harsh on trim pieces. Use your soapy solution while you clay, that will strip off anything on the vehicle.

Thanks for responding Jumbo Jet and for the advice. Yea, I would like a PC, I seen other forums out there pumping up the flex(out of my paygrade) and the makita 9227(I do have a Home Depot gift card I could use for this) but I guess the PC is more user freindly. Whats your opinion on that? Also, any aprticular order/wait time you recomend on applying some of the products I mentiond :confused:. Thanks

Micky

No problem Micky, glad to help. From what I've heard the Flex is a great polisher.... I've never used one but I'm pretty sure Brandon has, maybe he'll chime in about it. It is a rotary, but it's supposed to be more user friendly than the Dewalt 849 or Makita 9227. If youre still pretty new to all of this then I would recommend staying away from rotaries like those for the time being. Stick with a random orbital for now, they will do about 95% of what youre after. Its possible you'll do more damage than good with a rotary if you arent sure how to use it.

The Porter Cable 7336/7424 is pretty much the industry standard for ROB detailing, but its not the only machine out there. DeWalt makes the DW443 and I love it. Its a little heavier, but doesnt bog down under pressure and has additional variable speeds. When I wear out my PC I'm switching to the DW443. You can still buy the hook and loop backing plate for it and all the standard pads fit it.

DeWALT DW443 6" Right Angle Random Orbit Sander With Electronic Variable Speed | ToolBarn.com (http://www.toolbarn.com/dewalt-dw443.html?ref=base)

You have a nice list of products. Start with a wash/clay then go to Klasse AIO with a white pad and PC on 5 if you dont have any swirls. Klasse is a chemical cleaner, but will remove very light spider webbing and oxidation with the correct pad/speed combo. Klasse AIO makes an amazing base coat for your waxes or sealants. I use it on almost every detail before my sealants, either Klasse or FK1 215 AIO, that is great as well. Based on what you've listed, I'd go with wash/clay, Klasse then top it with #845. That should look really good. No wait time between the Klasse and #845, you can do one after the other.

Jumbo, Yea I guess those rotaries can burn your paint out if your not carefull. Best to take the "What About Bob" approach. The PC on my wish list for Christmas but I'm trying to make a deal with her(I mean Santa ;)) to expedite my gift in exchane for using it on her sleigh right away. I thought I saw you post on another thread that Lowes had that Dewalt, any other spots you've seen it at? I'm looking forward to trying out the 845. I heard it's a great winter wax. Should I or can I top it with the DP Max Wax or vice versa or not really needed? Thanks again.:)

Just re-read, and Duh :doh:Tool Barn. Sorry Long Day.

Check Amazon too. You'll be super happy with either the PC or the DeWalt, both are excellent choices. Either way you go you'll have to buy a hook and loop backing plate..... they arent included but theyre cheap.

Try the Klasse AIO/#845 combo and see how that looks, I'm not sure if Max Wax will bond to #845, I've never used Max Wax. You certainly wont do any harm by trying. Everything bonds to Klasse, so you should be good to go if you topped it with MW instead. #845 will look really deep and wet on Metallic Blue.

Try the Klasse twins/PUPP combo too. That looks amazing on lighter colors. Klasse AIO then a single layer of Klasse SG (silver bottle), then after the next wash another layer of SG, then top that with Four Star PUPP (ultimate paint protection). My favorite combo for light colors. It really makes the paint "pop". I have some pics laying around somewhere if you want to see it.

Thats a good woman you have there, wanting to buy you a PC :)