Ok, Brandon and Jumbo, I have a question for you and I'm sure your answers would help quite a bit of people on here.

Could you give us an explanation of what color pad for the PC works with what situation.

I use a red or blue soft pad all the time as I'm afraid anything else might leave micro scratches in my paint. I've seen posts on here where you guys recommend black or white or orange pads.

Could you give us a list of what color pad should be used for each individual situation/problem? It would help tremendously for us PC "newbies". Speeds of the PC might be helpful as well. :yo:

Thanks, guys!

No problem, this is an easy one.

Getting the correct pad and polish combo isnt too tough, but it gets a lot clearer the more you do it and the more you experiment with different products. By only using blue and red pads youre really limiting your PC's power and potential. The more aggressive pads wont harm your paint, they are made to remove the scratches, not cause them.

A quick rule of thumb is to try and step down from each pad with its lesser aggressive little brother and less aggressive polish. For example, if I was using a yellow pad (very aggressive) and a heavy polish like Einszettes UPP (yellow can) and PC on 5, my next polish/pad combo would be an orange pad with Einszettes PP (green can) and PC on 4. Next step down would be Einszettes MP (red can) with a white pad and PC on 4. Then lastly my final sealant with a black or blue pad and PC on 4. The step down in polishes and pads helps to clean up any hazing from the previous polish and really add to the depth in the paint.

Here's a break down of the pads and their intended purposes using Lake Country pads.

Hope this helps.

Mark

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g150/Jennybeth1/Random/padslist.jpg

Jumbo, this is a great color chart that I've not seen before. I have a bag full of the orange pads and was confused when/how to use them. When/how do you use the wooly pad? I've been using that for buffing after application vice the orange pad.....

Thanks, Jumbo! You and Brandon are the best! :tu:

Jumbo-when you mention the stepping down process, are you doing this all in the same day?

Yes, all in the same day. If you have a car that's not you're daily driver then you can break it up into two days, but for the most part I do it all in the same day. It doesn't take as long as it sounds.

For your first run with the oxidation removal, I'm sure your spending 3-5 minutes a 2x2 section. As you do different levels to step down, are you reducing your pc time per section or is the first one the only one that takes that long?
This is what brought me to this. When I just did my truck this wknd, some areas look great, others are hazy. I know I went a little fast over some areas but still spent 4-5 hrs on it (including the sealant) & I'm only doing 2 runs at it.

Yeah, the first pass is breaking down the swirls and scratches, the following passes or steps down I use to remove any hazing or cloudiness from the previous pass, which is why they go quicker. I've had cars that have taken me 14 hours to do, then I've some that took 4 hours..... all depends on the condition of the paint.

Yeah, the first pass is breaking down the swirls and scratches, the following passes or steps down I use to remove any hazing or cloudiness from the previous pass, which is why they go quicker. I've had cars that have taken me 14 hours to do, then I've some that took 4 hours..... all depends on the condition of the paint.

Maybe that is part of my problem; I'm creating a haze. Can I just step down on the pad (go from orange to white) using the same product before I do my LSP (sealant). Once I get the Klasse aio I will give that a try if you suggest it.

You can, but I think you'll benefit more from it if you also step down in your polish.... at least thats been my experience. Klasse AIO will clean up most hazing or cloudiness from your previous polish when using it with a white pad. As well as clearing up any haze, AIO also cleans the surface from any oils left over in the polish and allows your sealant to properly bond.

ok so I can continue to use my 652 (orange pad) or any other swirl remover, then AIO (white pad), then my DG105 (white pad for now until I get a blue or black).

Yep, exactly. Grab a black or blue finishing pad when you get a chance, they spread sealants with a nice thin, even layer. I think you'll have better luck using AIO to clean up the hazing that youre getting from the 652.

When applying AIO, I like to lightly mist the pad with detail spray, run over the entire car with AIO on about 4, let it sit for a minute and then start buffing off with a monster fluffy microfiber at the point I first started applying. AIO bonds instantly, but I find that the longer it sits the easier it removes. I once let it set on an old junk yard test panel for 2 weeks in the garage...... it wiped right off without any effort. AIO is amazing stuff. For a really great look try topping it with Klasse SG, in the silver bottle.... its an awesome combo with proper prep work.