Bummer! Well, I tried to be a hero (MPG Buttons) [Archive] - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

: Bummer! Well, I tried to be a hero (MPG Buttons)



PoPo
01-14-2010, 09:59 AM
UPDATE: MOD was completed with DIY: Check out this thread for details: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/192965-official-how-add-mpg-buttons-thread/#post1502842

Okay, so my new truck has blanks where the MPG Calc buttons are located. (My '07 SR5 had the buttons, to change MPG display, up on the small dash/clock display).
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00389_thumb.jpg

My new '10 CM doesn't have the buttons, so I wanted to add them. I popped the panel off, and popped out the blank button-set, and sure enough, it was prewired, with the little harness secured into the blank-set. *UPDATE* You don't have to remove the dash-panel to get the buttons out... they should just pop right out of the panel with a flat screwdriver. They connect with tabs on the top & bottom, so that's where you'll insert the screwdriver.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00391_thumb.jpg

Also, I shined a light up on the dash-display, and there's "impressions" there for MPG, AVG... etc.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00390_571135_thumb.jpg

So, I started doing the research, got in touch with Tim @ Sparks (helpful as always), and finally found what I (thought) had to order. The piece is called the:
-Combo Switch or Drive Monitor
-Part #84977-0C100 *UPDATE* Folks are having better luck with Part# 84977-0C020... you can also find it at Partznet.
-$89.30 + $10 S&H (from Sparks).
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00386_thumb.jpghttp://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00387_thumb.jpg

So, it came in the mail today, and I installed it, hoping that it would work, and that I could be the Hero of the day to all the other TS members that were hoping for the buttons! :cool:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00393_thumb.jpg

Well --- not so much, at least for the first attempt. The wiring harness plugs in just fine, and fits perfectly in the dash. However, the only button that works is the SETUP button, which changes the temp format from Farenheit to Celcius. The INFO and SELECT/RESET buttons don't change anything on the display. I do find it a bit odd that the SETUP button would work but not the other 2, especially since it's prewired in the first place. I did notice that the SELECT/RESET button sticks a bit, so my only hope is that maybe it's a bad switch?!?!?!

I emailed Tim @ Sparks and told him about this... I'm still waiting for a response.

I'll keep you all posted with updates - if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm definitely open to them! It was worth a shot, but hopefully this will still have a happy ending.

spenser24
01-14-2010, 10:22 AM
Well at least when you cross from Motown to Windsor you can get the right temp:D

sneekee_MT
01-14-2010, 10:25 AM
Just a thought...wouldn't your truck have to be equiped with a sensor for the thermometer?....and if it was... would it be safe to assume that toyota would include the fancy little button on the dash to control that sensor?

who1975
01-14-2010, 10:33 AM
I am wondering if your truck needs to be reset/flashed now that you have the button installed. Just a thought. Probably wrong but just a thought.

tj77
01-14-2010, 10:54 AM
there is acually three diff sets of buttons. you might have ordered the wrong one. I have my set on order also.

checkout this post from tundratalk, good right up.

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-diys/80024-how-add-info-buttons-your-tundra-2.html

PoPo
01-14-2010, 11:12 AM
there is acually three diff sets of buttons. you might have ordered the wrong one. I have my set on order also.

checkout this post from tundratalk, good right up.

http://www.tundratalk. net/forums/tundra-diys/80024-how-add-info-buttons-your-tundra.html

I wonder what the difference is ??? The one I ordered ends in -0C100.... and the one you pointed out ends in -0C020. It doesn't make much sense that it would be a different part. The one I ordered is for "w/o power seats" for obvious reasons... maybe that's the difference (I don't know if you have power seats or not?). Did you have to do a re-flash, or disconnect the battery??

I still haven't tried to re-flash yet. The little-guy woke up from his nap, so I haven't had a chance to get back out there & try it.

Still waiting back from Sparks as well.

PoPo
01-14-2010, 11:15 AM
Well at least when you cross from Motown to Windsor you can get the right temp:D

Funny !!! If nothing else, that sure is worth the $100 LOL

tj77
01-14-2010, 11:22 AM
does your truck have sonar? I havn't got the part yet still waiting. I don't have power seats.

PoPo
01-14-2010, 11:29 AM
does your truck have sonar? I havn't got the part yet still waiting. I don't have power seats.

Negative on sonar. I guess I'll have to send this back & try the other one. Did you disconnect the battery when you did yours? I'll give that 1 more try when I can get back out there, but I'm not hopeful...

red4rr
01-14-2010, 01:17 PM
Is there a computer that this hooks in to. Maybe the plug is right, but there is something unhooked or missing after that button. I dont think it would be that easy to just change out the buttons. Hope it works though, I would like to have that in my truck too. I just got the button to change from C to F.

matrix77
01-14-2010, 01:48 PM
I'm guessing here.

1. The unit to display the info... where the clock is... need to be replaced?
2. Reflash the ECU?
3. Both

Barney_Fife
01-14-2010, 02:08 PM
im really really really sure (and too lazy to search) that this has been discussed and attempted before....with similar results.

matrix77
01-14-2010, 02:23 PM
im really really really sure (and too lazy to search) that this has been discussed and attempted before....with similar results.What's wrong with asking the topic again if unable to search.... either wrong "magic" words for the search engine to return.

1. If you know the answer to the questions... fill it in.
2. If you know where the link is... give the link.
3. If you have nothing to say... ignore the post and go on. Don't just give a stooopid statement saying... do the search, already discussed.... blah blah blah.

If everyone gave the answers like yours... the forum is not much helpful.

Disclaimer: I do not want to start any fuel... just want to share my thoughts.

thumbster
01-14-2010, 03:42 PM
Lets all play nice and not get our panties all bunched here - luckily this is not even remotely like all the countless exhaust threads floating around here with senseless repetition.

Anyways, I was looking into doing the same thing to get the temp/clock module to display MPG, etc. It's likely an issue of replacing the combo switch along with the display unit. The ECM shouldn't have anything to do with this feature. I'm pretty sure all the info is already there with the CAN bus going all over the dash. If I recall, the person who was successful with this mod had an 07-08 truck. It would be safe to say there has to be a difference between the clock modules at the very least between the 07-08 models and the 09-10 models.

dariusld
01-14-2010, 03:50 PM
It's already been pointed out that someone has done this in another forum. I don't know what is wrong here, but the other person just replaced the switch and everything worked.

SE2000
01-14-2010, 04:10 PM
Just a thought...wouldn't your truck have to be equiped with a sensor for the thermometer?....and if it was... would it be safe to assume that toyota would include the fancy little button on the dash to control that sensor?

That is standard and he mentioned that button worked in the new switch. So he has the temp sensor. We are trying to add fuel mpg and fuel remaining.

So Popo, what stereo did yours come stock with? I am thinking JBL trucks have more do dads prewired

PoPo
01-14-2010, 04:12 PM
It's already been pointed out that someone has done this in another forum. I don't know what is wrong here, but the other person just replaced the switch and everything worked.

Yeah, I checked his write-up on the other forum, and it appears that the part number for the "combo-switch" he used is slightly different, although, I can't imagine why there'd be different part numbers for this same thing.

thumbster - the guy that mentioned he did this is also driving a 2010, so not really sure that applies, but you're probably right that the wiring is different between the model years.

Also, the dash-readout... I checked the parts catalog on Sparks' website, and it looks like there's only a "one-size-fits-all" display up there, which should display everything. I don't have sonar equipped, but my dash-display has the spot for it, which is visible if I shine a light on it.

Tim @ Sparks emailed me back, and says he doesn't think its a bad switch, since it's brand new. He said "I am thinking the ECU doesn't know what those buttons do..." so, maybe an ECU flash would work, although, I doubt this is a common question for the stealerships, and I have my doubts that they would have the know-how to fix it.

Oh, Matrix77 --- thanks for your comment. It's always nice to know there are people on this forum that remember the true reason for having the forum in the first place... to help the other members and share our knowledge about our truck. Rep points sent your way for offering somthing constructive, instead of saying "already been brought up...blah blah blah! :amen:

ALSO ... I unhooked my battery terminals and tried it again. I waited about 10 minutes, and spent the time removing the charcoal filter from the air-box, which I had forgotten about! Bottom line: No luck working after reconnecting the battery... so it's definitely either an issue with the switch, or the truck doesn't have a trip computer somewhere else.

PoPo
01-14-2010, 04:17 PM
That is standard and he mentioned that button worked in the new switch. So he has the temp sensor. We are trying to add fuel mpg and fuel remaining.

So Popo, what stereo did yours come stock with? I am thinking JBL trucks have more do dads prewired

I've got the non-JBL, but the upgraded 2010 stereo with LED display, iPod, XM equipped, BT, and stereo controls.

And for what it's worth: My '07 SR5 had the base radio, with no steering wheel controls. However, it DID have the MPG Calc buttons. On the window sticker for that truck, there was an option written on it that said something like "Trip Computer - $80" .... $80 sounds an awful lot like the price I paid for the MPG buttons. I'm wondering if the SR5 package comes standard with this ??? Most pics I see of SR5 trims have the buttons.

It still seems odd that the wires would be pre-wired, but that it would not be working properly. The only other thing I can add is that parts guys seem to have a difficult time finding the exact part number... so maybe they got it wrong?!!? Maybe the one they sent me is for the prior year Tundra's, and maybe I need a newer part for the 2010 ? I don't know, but I want it to work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SLATE
01-14-2010, 04:24 PM
That I know of, only those with bench seat have that option... which doesn't make any sense as to why?

Well either way keep us posted. That $100 for the swtich + something that mught be missing would be worth it in my book ;-)

DaYooper
01-14-2010, 04:37 PM
Lets all play nice and not get our panties all bunched here - luckily this is not even remotely like all the countless exhaust threads floating around here with senseless repetition.

Anyways, I was looking into doing the same thing to get the temp/clock module to display MPG, etc. It's likely an issue of replacing the combo switch along with the display unit. The ECM shouldn't have anything to do with this feature. I'm pretty sure all the info is already there with the CAN bus going all over the dash. If I recall, the person who was successful with this mod had an 07-08 truck. It would be safe to say there has to be a difference between the clock modules at the very least between the 07-08 models and the 09-10 models.

Did you know that one kid from Indy got two Cherry Bomb Extremes at Pepboys for $30 a piece:D LOL

SE2000
01-15-2010, 08:05 AM
I've got the non-JBL, but the upgraded 2010 stereo with LED display, iPod, XM equipped, BT, and stereo controls.

And for what it's worth: My '07 SR5 had the base radio, with no steering wheel controls. However, it DID have the MPG Calc buttons. On the window sticker for that truck, there was an option written on it that said something like "Trip Computer - $80" .... $80 sounds an awful lot like the price I paid for the MPG buttons. I'm wondering if the SR5 package comes standard with this ??? Most pics I see of SR5 trims have the buttons.

It still seems odd that the wires would be pre-wired, but that it would not be working properly. The only other thing I can add is that (and no offense to the helpful peeps @ Sparks), but they had a difficult time finding the exact part number... so maybe they got it wrong?!!? Maybe the one they sent me is for the prior year Tundra's, and maybe I need a newer part for the 2010 ? I don't know, but I want it to work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so you got an option so it was wired. Toyota must have figured a base of maybe 4 wiring harnesses depending on the option. It is like my truck has the overhead backup camera display wiring but not the harness for the camera in back. So I am half way there.
I know the jbl vehicles have the wiring but not the sensor for automatic headlights.
So that is why I want to get a survey as to what works so we all don't have to guess and waste money.

M.I.A. Cycles
01-15-2010, 08:28 PM
Has anyone gotten this to work on a 2010 yet ??

PoPo
01-15-2010, 11:34 PM
there is acually three diff sets of buttons. you might have ordered the wrong one. I have my set on order also.

checkout this post from tundratalk, good right up.

How to add the Info Buttons to your Tundra - Page 2 - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum (http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-diys/80024-how-add-info-buttons-your-tundra-2.html)

According to this post, the guy's driving a 2010. In the post, he says he ordered the part from AutoAnything.com. I checked out that site today, and requested info on the part.

84977-0C100 is the part I had bought through Sparks for $89.30 + $10 s&h... but the part this guy refers to is 84977-0C020. AutoAnything has it listed for around $75, plus $10 or so for s&h. I sent them a question about the part, and received an email back that they are familiar with this part, that they've sold quite a few without any reports of it not working (no returns on it either)... However, they said the part is on back-order right now. So, I sent the original I bought back to Sparks & am waiting for a refund.

If anyone else finds the part elsewhere, please let us know...

M.I.A. Cycles
01-16-2010, 10:21 AM
Popo'
Your truck is equiped the same as mine, send me a message if you get this to work.
Thanks
John

tbaxl
01-16-2010, 11:13 AM
i just installed tho 0c020 part in my 09 and i am getting the same results as you, i am thinking a reflash is in order i will try that next week. if any one gets theirs to work keep us updated. by the way i find it very easy to read around a previously asked question and take no offense in seeing it again.
tim


According to this post, the guy's driving a 2010. In the post, he says he ordered the part from AutoAnything.com. I checked out that site today, and requested info on the part.

84977-0C100 is the part I had bought through Sparks for $89.30 + $10 s&h... but the part this guy refers to is 84977-0C020. AutoAnything has it listed for around $75, plus $10 or so for s&h. I sent them a question about the part, and received an email back that they are familiar with this part, that they've sold quite a few without any reports of it not working (no returns on it either)... However, they said the part is on back-order right now. So, I sent the original I bought back to Sparks & am waiting for a refund.

If anyone else finds the part elsewhere, please let us know...

PoPo
01-16-2010, 11:38 AM
Okay, an update:

I noticed on the TundraTalk forum thread that talks about this, that other members over there are having the same problem with the 84977-0C100 AND the -0C020. How to add the Info Buttons to your Tundra - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum (http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-diys/80024-how-add-info-buttons-your-tundra.html)

Anyhow, I just called my local dealer's Parts Dept, and spoke with someone there. He doesn't know anything about it, and said "that's getting out of our expertise..." and said I should talk to someone in Service. So, I called them, but go no answer, so I left a detailed message. Hopefully I'll receive an answer today... again, I'll keep you posted

martym
01-16-2010, 01:26 PM
I just ordered the part # ending 020 after checking out the other forum.
Got it from partznet. I have a 2010 5.7 dbl cab "grade" I will let you know if it works.

SE2000
01-16-2010, 05:45 PM
Popo'
Your truck is equiped the same as mine, send me a message if you get this to work.
Thanks
John

Welcome to the group. Maybe we should get a switch and try it on both of our vehicles

Sanosuke
01-16-2010, 07:00 PM
Has it occured to anyone including the OP, that:

The mileage display possibly works only IF the tundra is a console shifter edition?
If this is not so and we have pics to prove this;
I am thinking another thing is at work here - have they looked at another Tundra in the dealers parking lot to look at the part number on a working version of the thermostat/mileage display.

Finally, the OP probably needs their ECU flashed OR techstream hooked up to enable the display to be seen.

Thats the thoughts for tonight as far as I am concerned.

Sanosuke!

SE2000
01-16-2010, 07:43 PM
What combination works is something we will on determine when enough of us try it and post our results along with our options

For example , does any 07 or 08 have those buttons working?

PoPo
01-16-2010, 08:15 PM
Well, the dis-service rep at my stealership was less than helpful. He's never heard of trying this, so instead of trying to figure it out, he copped out by saying "you might have to purchase a new ECM, and that'll cost you $1500 or so...". He then gave me the 1-800-GO-TOYOTA phone number, and said to talk with someone there.

So..... I guess I'll have to wait til someone else chimes in. I'll try the part (0C020) from PartzNet only if they'll accept a return if it doesn't work. As soon as Sparks refunds my $, I'll order the other one. On Monday, I'm gonna call around to the other Metro-Detroit dealerships and see if anyone there can help.

... Nothing like a Parts guy AND service rep blowing you off when they don't know (and don't want to investigate) something.

idcruiserman
01-16-2010, 08:27 PM
I would be surprised if you got a refund on an installed electrical part.

eaglesmerlin1
01-16-2010, 10:57 PM
bahh I wonder if the "floor shifter" configuration matters in this case.I have rcsb tundra with the bucket seats and floor shifter.Its an "SR5" but I dont know if its prewired like the double/crew cabs SR5's seem to be.

I sent some REP points over though for trying to figure out what works and what doesnt

Skyssx
01-17-2010, 09:52 AM
Just a tidbit; the dash display is controlled and powered by the gauge cluster. The dash button wires go into the back of the gauge cluster, and the display does as well. I'm not sure if it's a DIP switch, a solder pad, a chip flash or a different board entirely, but you're going to need to pull open the gauge cluster.

PoPo
01-17-2010, 03:58 PM
Just a tidbit; the dash display is controlled and powered by the gauge cluster. The dash button wires go into the back of the gauge cluster, and the display does as well. I'm not sure if it's a DIP switch, a solder pad, a chip flash or a different board entirely, but you're going to need to pull open the gauge cluster.

Okay... but, what do you make of the "SETUP" button working when we add the new switches? It works to change the temp display from F to C... just the INFO and SELECT/RESET buttons don't work. I'm not disagreeing with you, just trying to find an answer, since my local stealership is useless and doesn't want to help.

SE2000
01-18-2010, 07:58 AM
Okay... but, what do you make of the "SETUP" button working when we add the new switches? It works to change the temp display from F to C... just the INFO and SELECT/RESET buttons don't work. I'm not disagreeing with you, just trying to find an answer, since my local stealership is useless and doesn't want to help.

He may be onto that it is the cluster. My 08 has the setup button and that is all I get. Maybe the mpg need the speedo and odo input for its calculation

PoPo
01-18-2010, 08:08 AM
That would make sense... Maybe the harness just isn't connected back there, since everything else seems to be prewired, but not connected. Like our backup cameras and power seat wiring (even if we don't have power seats) ??? I'll give it a look this week, but I'll have to order the buttons again !!!

matrix77
01-18-2010, 09:46 AM
If someone has access to TIS site and print out the electrical diagrams for you. You might able to trace it down. Or you can pay $10 for a day or so to print out the diagrams?

techinfo.toyota.com

Skyssx
01-18-2010, 11:02 AM
If someone can get the actual schematics of the gauge cluster, I can tell you exactly what the score is. I know the gauge cluster drives the display and is connected to the buttons from someone posting a block diagram. People seem to be stingy with their TIS subscription, and I totally understand.

liftking08
01-19-2010, 05:42 PM
we did this mod once,there is some wires that need to be re-done,i cant think of what we had to do,hit up mustang,hes the one who did it.sorry i couldent be more help.

PoPo
01-19-2010, 08:02 PM
we did this mod once,there is some wires that need to be re-done,i cant think of what we had to do,hit up mustang,hes the one who did it.sorry i couldent be more help.

Which "Mustang..." ??? I did a search, and there are 30 members here with "Mustang" in their username.

tbaxl
01-19-2010, 08:14 PM
If someone can get the actual schematics of the gauge cluster, I can tell you exactly what the score is. I know the gauge cluster drives the display and is connected to the buttons from someone posting a block diagram. People seem to be stingy with their TIS subscription, and I totally understand.

if you can tell me exactly what to get and where i am on it, need to get this going on my 09 but i am going to my dealer thursday, really good place, and try the techstream route. i will post the results.
tim

thumbster
01-19-2010, 08:16 PM
Which "Mustang..." ??? I did a search, and there are 30 members here with "Mustang" in their username.

Probably mustang67408 is the guy - I believe he is a Toyota tech.

kuee
01-20-2010, 07:54 PM
Just did this mod on my 2010 Rock Warrior. I used the 0C020 part number as in the other post. Easiest mod I have ever done. Truly just plug and play.

No ECM reflash or anything else.

PoPo
01-20-2010, 07:59 PM
Just did this mod on my 2010 Rock Warrior. I used the 0C020 part number as in the other post. Easiest mod I have ever done. Truly just plug and play.

No ECM reflash or anything else.

Yeah, this is the 2nd RockWarrior truck that this has worked on, unless you're the guy from TundraTalk that did this already. Still no clue why this is working for some people, and not for others (like me :(). I'm still waiting for the refund to get to my account from Sparks (2-4 days for processing, so it should be there by tomorrow or Friday)... then I'll try to find the 0C020 part and give that a try.

I wish some Parts/Service guys that follow the forums would chime in !!!

kuee
01-20-2010, 08:03 PM
I think I have read of 3 or 4 that this has worked on including mine.

All were Rock Warriors.

ahowudoin
01-20-2010, 08:07 PM
I think I have read of 3 or 4 that this has worked on including mine.

All were Rock Warriors.
What year is yours?

PoPo
01-20-2010, 08:07 PM
I think I have read of 3 or 4 that this has worked on including mine.

All were Rock Warriors.

Where'd u order the part from, and what did u pay?

kuee
01-20-2010, 08:35 PM
I ordered the part from partznet.com. The part number is 849770C020. My truck is a 2010. Their price is $75 plus shipping.

There is no option for a 2010 on their website so just use 2009.

HonkyTonk
01-20-2010, 08:45 PM
Just did this mod on my 2010 Rock Warrior. I used the 0C020 part number as in the other post. Easiest mod I have ever done. Truly just plug and play.

No ECM reflash or anything else.

did your original switch that you replaced have all blanks?

PoPo
01-20-2010, 08:46 PM
I ordered the part from partznet.com. The part number is 849770C020. My truck is a 2010. Their price is $75 plus shipping.

There is no option for a 2010 on their website so just use 2009. That's weird - I checked Partznet when I started this thread, and they said the part was on backorder. Well good... Hopefully I can have it here in a few days to try again. Thanks...

Oh, mine is 2010 also. Mine started off as a TundraGrade package truck (with bench seats), but had a bunch of other options added. To be honest, with the options I have, this truck is much better equipped than my 07 SR5 package was, with the only exception being the MPG buttons. But, I'm pretty sure that the RockWarrior is a "TundraGrade" package as well, isn't it?

kuee
01-20-2010, 08:59 PM
Yes I replaced all blanks.

I ordered min on 1/9 and received them today 1/20.

Don't know if the RW is a TG.

MacCTD
01-21-2010, 12:27 PM
That's weird - I checked Partznet when I started this thread, and they said the part was on backorder. Well good... Hopefully I can have it here in a few days to try again. Thanks...

Oh, mine is 2010 also. Mine started off as a TundraGrade package truck (with bench seats), but had a bunch of other options added. To be honest, with the options I have, this truck is much better equipped than my 07 SR5 package was, with the only exception being the MPG buttons. But, I'm pretty sure that the RockWarrior is a "TundraGrade" package as well, isn't it?


I also have a '10 grade CM with bench seat. I ordered the exact part listed on the other forum from Partznet on 1/16, I got an email today saying it shipped, I will let you know if it works on mine.

PoPo
01-21-2010, 12:32 PM
I also have a '10 grade CM with bench seat. I ordered the exact part listed on the other forum from Partznet on 1/16, I got an email today saying it shipped, I will let you know if it works on mine.

Okay, good luck... I hope it works. From the looks of it, we have the exact same truck. Looks like the only other option I have that's not on your truck is Fog lights.

On a side note, I noticed from your pics that you have the Husky floormats... I'm getting ready to buy some, and not sure which ones I want. The Husky's are cheaper than the others... what are your opinions on them?

liftking08
01-21-2010, 01:39 PM
mustang67408,hes our shop floor man,he wrote the book on toyota!lol

Skyssx
01-21-2010, 02:09 PM
if you can tell me exactly what to get and where i am on it, need to get this going on my 09 but i am going to my dealer thursday, really good place, and try the techstream route. i will post the results.
tim

I need a component level schematic of the gauge cluster(s). I can't be more specific than that because to get the document numbers, I would need to be able to view the documents. Catch-22. Eventually i'll have time and money to work on my truck, and i'll download all the files off TIS. Until then, I can only work with what I can scrounge.

MacCTD
01-21-2010, 05:14 PM
Okay, good luck... I hope it works. From the looks of it, we have the exact same truck. Looks like the only other option I have that's not on your truck is Fog lights.

On a side note, I noticed from your pics that you have the Husky floormats... I'm getting ready to buy some, and not sure which ones I want. The Husky's are cheaper than the others... what are your opinions on them?

I really like them, I had a set in my last truck for 6 years, they still looked new and protected the interior very well. There is a lot of snow, salt and sand where I am.
They are great in the Tundra, only downside is they can be slipperly, my wife does not like them quite as well.

wolverine66
01-21-2010, 07:16 PM
Question,
Mine is a 2010 Crew Max and I have the buttons that change the temp and says how much gas is left etc. My question is I have three buttons and one blank, do you think if I buy the switch with all the button and hook it up that the Sonar will work? I mean is this sonar pre wired on all Crew Max Tundras and some trucks you buy have the buttons and some don't cause of the price?



Thanks

PoPo
01-21-2010, 07:32 PM
Question,
Mine is a 2010 Crew Max and I have the buttons that change the temp and says how much gas is left etc. My question is I have three buttons and one blank, do you think if I buy the switch with all the button and hook it up that the Sonar will work? I mean is this sonar pre wired on all Crew Max Tundras and some trucks you buy have the buttons and some don't cause of the price? ThanksNot unless you have holes pre-drilled through your bumpers with SONAR plugs mounted ;) ! The wiring may be present, but I don't even know what it might cost you to get the sensors, then drilling through the bumpers.

mustang67408
01-21-2010, 07:53 PM
OK, heres the deal. I went back thru my notes and this is what I found.

The wires are not in the harness and have to be re-wired from one side of the vehicle to the other.
The switches have to be the
The accessory meter has to be
Your going to have to go to the junk yard to get the connectors and the PINS to add to the harness, Toyota doesnt sell them. I tired but no luck.
It took a friend of mine with an electrical back ground over 3 days to do this.

I will post more notes as i find them
Looking for part numbers and will post when i find them

PoPo
01-21-2010, 08:15 PM
You wont be able to add these buttons on a TUNDRAGRADE vehicle(cost effectivly). Most of the wires are there, but some end inside the harness, and the LOGIC in the ECU's is not there, so even if the switch sends a signal on the wires, there is no logic in the body ecu/combination meter ecu/ engine ecu to read this signal and perform the appropriate command, ALL THOSE ITEMS would have to be replaced and the wiring fixed.There are over 12 choices of combination meters and just as many ecu's.The clock assembly (accesory meter) that shows all that info is also different on a tundragrade. There is no flash to allow this, the transisters and other hardware are not in that ecu or are turned off and we dont have access to turn it on. I tried adding remote start on a TUNDRAGRADE and it couldnt be done in a cost effective manner. We would have had to add some wires and replace a few ecu's.
TUNDRAGRADE vehicles were cheaper for a reason.
You can add intermitant wipers tho, you just need the INTERMITANT wiper switch.
Sorry but this is what I have found so far..
Good luck
and if anyone finds anything different on a tundragrade ,please PM me. I'd like to learn whatever it is i missed.
Thanks for joining in on this.... My only Question is this: Is there any way to look up exactly what might be pre-wired to work on my truck? My truck has all the same options (more, in fact) than my '07 SR5 did... I've got FogLights, Steering-wheel controls & the upgraded LED-display radio, all the power options (locks, windows, etc), cold weather & tow packages..... the ONLY thing that it seems to have that my SR5 didn't is the MPG buttons.
I'm not questioning your expertise.... it's pretty obvious from your signature that you know what you're talking about, mustang67408. Is it possible that the different switch Part #'s would make a difference? I tried the 0C100, but others are having luck with the 0C020. Does that make any difference, or are they pretty much the same thing?

mustang67408
01-21-2010, 08:31 PM
No you can not look up what is pre-wired. You just have to get a wire diagram and check each circuit

Successful: the factory cruise switch – 00016-34808

Successful: Variable Intermittent Wipers. wiper switch - 84652-04141

From our searches, nothing else is pre-wired only the above 2 items. Anything else will have to be re-wired


OK, heres the deal. I went back thru my notes and this is what I found.

The wires are not in the harness and have to be re-wired from one side of the vehicle to the other.
Your going to have to go to the junk yard to get the connectors and the PINS to add to the harness, Toyota doesnt sell them. I tired but no luck.
It took a friend of mine with an electrical back ground over 3 days to do this.

I will post more notes as i find them
It can be done, but it's alot of work and i mean alot.


Successful: Accessory Meter ( Clock Mod Center Dash ) and the Drive Monitor Switch ( Info, Select/Reset, Setup /u/m ) This would give you the Clock, Outside Temp, AVE MPG, INST MPG, Range Left in the tank. This will work, but alot plenty of time so you are not rushed. you will need to do some wiring outside the factory harnesses. The Combination Meter (83800-0c870) in this truck has the options built into it and I know this one does also 83800-0ca60 (w/tow package). I would check your part numbers against these before you start. Use the OCO20 switch, but they wont make it work. Your wiring isnt there. Tundra grades delete wires and other options. My friend had both switches, neither worked until he did the wiring

Your going to need an entire wire diagram to find out where each wire goes and what pin space and which connector it goes to.

good luck

if someone in a TUNDRAGRADE did this without wiring it, please let me know, id like to learn too

PoPo
01-21-2010, 11:34 PM
Holy Crap - that sounds like alot of work!!! Definitely NOT what I was expecting. I find it SOOOOO wild that Toyota would bother running the 8-wire harness behind (and connecting to) my blank buttons, if it's not connected to everything else.

So, this harness that I have (that's the 0C100 that I had bought in the pic, connected to the 8-wire harness which was plugged into the blank buttons)
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/3/1/9/4/snc00393.jpg
is what I have to figure out where the wires lead to, then fashion a new harness to connect to somewhere else?

I hate sounding dumb, but I just wanna make sure b4 I go all crazy on this.

By the way, REP points sent your way for posting on this - this is the first real answer I've received! THANKS!!!!

tj77
01-22-2010, 09:43 AM
my switches were deliveried today, can't wait to go home and see if they work in my 09 DC RW.

SE2000
01-22-2010, 10:01 AM
That's weird - I checked Partznet when I started this thread, and they said the part was on backorder. Well good... Hopefully I can have it here in a few days to try again. Thanks...

Oh, mine is 2010 also. Mine started off as a TundraGrade package truck (with bench seats), but had a bunch of other options added. To be honest, with the options I have, this truck is much better equipped than my 07 SR5 package was, with the only exception being the MPG buttons. But, I'm pretty sure that the RockWarrior is a "TundraGrade" package as well, isn't it?

There is no SR% grade anymore, it is an option like RW.

I think the way to do this is see if there is a kit. Someone said they had a grade that came with the buttons, they had a option for it. Maybe we could get an option to part number and then order that. that would give us both parts

PoPo
01-22-2010, 11:56 AM
There is no SR% grade anymore, it is an option like RW.

I think the way to do this is see if there is a kit. Someone said they had a grade that came with the buttons, they had a option for it. Maybe we could get an option to part number and then order that. that would give us both parts

You're right (I didn't realize that!!!). I just looked at my window-sticker, and it doesn't say anything about "Grade..." Hopefully someone will have luck with a 2010 that isn't a RockWarrior, since it seems to be working for the RW trucks (using part#xxxxx-0C020).

captgnarley
01-22-2010, 01:35 PM
Bummer is right. I got my switch last night. p/n 84977-0C020 Hooked it up today and only the "setup us/m" works. I have a 08 RCLB SR5. It was pre-wired with the camera wiring. What now? Anyone to buy the switch?

RIjon
01-22-2010, 01:43 PM
Switch did not work for me.




part# 84977-0C020

SOLD


Thanks,
Jon

eaglesmerlin1
01-22-2010, 03:19 PM
aww crap.last two responses are from "sr5" rc trucks so im going to guess it wont work with mine either.i know guy stephen_c tried it on another forum and same result.

chrisBTSC
01-22-2010, 03:38 PM
I have a 2010 DC TRD package. If one of you that bought the switch would let me try it for reasearch sake, that would be cool. Maybe we can narrow this down to which trucks it would work on. I could give you DL, address, or whatever just to show that I won't steal it.

mustang67408
01-22-2010, 11:06 PM
New Accessory Meter(83290-0c090) – [83290-0c060] older Version
Drive Monitor Switch 84977-0C020
Wire Harness Behind dash bezel 82143-0c030 (tundragrade only trucks)

This is what I used in the other Tundragrade Truck, plus we added miles of wiring.
Make sure you have a 8 pin connector, some people were thinking the 5 pin wire behind there was for the switches. The 5 pin is for 4wheel drive switch (see pics).

For those of you with the tundra grade good luck... its a nightmare. You have to get wrecking yard parts, like extra wire pins and connector.. Toyota doesnt sell them or I'd be happy to sell them to you.

For those of you with the SR5 or whatever you want to call it, I would try the drive monitor switch and the new Accessory meter and see if that works.
The wire harness listed above is for the 8 pin connector that the TUNDRAGRADES do NOT have.
Havent tried this on a NON TUNDRAGRADE, so I am in the dark as you are, but it SHOULD work.
Hope this helps
Good Luck

PoPo
01-22-2010, 11:43 PM
Mustang67408 .... Can you look up to post #63. That's a picture of the harness that is attached to the blank-buttons in my truck. It's an 8-pin harness. Do you think if I add 0C020, and the new accessory meter, it'll work - without having to do extra wiring since the harness is there. Or, are you saying we have to connect that 8-pin harness to something else entirely?

mustang67408
01-22-2010, 11:57 PM
With the 8 pin harness, Yes there is a probablility that with those 2 new components it will work.

The 8 pin harness is for only those trucks without it.
Yours has it = not needed

Here are the wire diagrams for the combo meter and the accesory meter.
I would do a continuity check with a DVOM and make sure the wires run from the switch to the combination meter & to the accesory meter, befor buying any parts and make sure the wiring is there. Each component has a small ecu in it and talks to other ecu's thru a CAN communication line and a TX line. Make sure all wires are there and have continuity at each component.
All I can figure is that The logic in the accesory meter is different in the one we installed vs the one that has no buttons.
I just hope the combination meter passes along the information, otherwise you may end up needing that too and they run $550, but from everythig I have done and seen, I dont think you'll need the combometer itself, just the other 2 components.

I will take no responsibility for any damage that may occur to anyones vehicles.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND BE CAREFUL!!!
I have not done this on a NON Tundragrade so we are all learning together.

tbaxl
01-23-2010, 05:40 AM
i have been too busy to get to the dealer, has any one tried the techstream route, i have the wiring just no info will display and it could just need to be turned on like the alarm. just thinking out loud.
tim

mustang67408
01-23-2010, 07:18 AM
i have been too busy to get to the dealer, has any one tried the techstream route, i have the wiring just no info will display and it could just need to be turned on like the alarm. just thinking out loud.
tim
Nothing in the techstream.

It THEORY it should only require a new switch assembly and new accessory meter. (part #'s listed above), but may also need a combination meter( i doubt it tho), But since no of us have done it there is a question about if it works....someone is going to have to experiment and find out.

Door-Kicker
01-23-2010, 08:09 AM
im really really really sure (and too lazy to search) that this has been discussed and attempted before....with similar results.

USE THE SEARCH and provide the link or SHTU. I hate the search Nazis.

PoPo
01-23-2010, 09:01 AM
Nothing in the techstream.

It THEORY it should only require a new switch assembly and new accessory meter. (part #'s listed above), but may also need a combination meter( i doubt it tho), But since no of us have done it there is a question about if it works....someone is going to have to experiment and find out.

At this point, I may abandon this & just purchase an aftermarket unit... I found several, but this one looks pretty cool, made by BullyDog Bully Dog WatchDog Economy Monitor - JEGS (http://www.jegs.com/p/Bully-Dog/Bully-Dog-WatchDog-Economy-Monitor/1167170/10002/-1)
apparently, it'll do MPG's, Performance stuff (0-60; 1/8; 1/4), and somehow it shows your HP & Torque numbers too, which would be cool to see all these things when you add mods. Anyone have experience with aftermarket "scan" units?

I would like to have the stock buttons enabled, but to pay $200 (for something I can't return if it doesn't work!!!) sounds kinda silly. If we can get a decent price quote, is anyone here interested in pooling the money together to buy the part (listed below) to see if it even works? If it works on my truck, then I'll send all your money back (if it works & I keep it, obviously I'll pay back the whole price to you guys), and you can go out & buy your own. If it doesn't work, at least we all paid a small amount to find out, instead of $200 each.

Mustang67408 --- Can you order the parts? If so, can you post a price quote for shipping to 48026, for the:
New Accessory Meter(83290-0c090)
Drive Monitor Switch (84977-0C020)

captgnarley
01-23-2010, 11:43 AM
New Accessory Meter p/n 83290-0C090 was about $105 on partznet.com. What is this part? Is it a module that gets plugged in under the dash? Is it the display? I already bought the switch and it was $86.

MacCTD
01-23-2010, 12:02 PM
I also have a '10 grade CM with bench seat. I ordered the exact part listed on the other forum from Partznet on 1/16, I got an email today saying it shipped, I will let you know if it works on mine.


Got the part today and installed it, it did not work, changes F to C and that is it, oh well, at least the switches look better than the blank that was there.

PoPo
01-23-2010, 12:14 PM
Here's a quote from "Indytruckchampion" at TT forum (I did a Google search for the problem we're having).
Go to a dealer and get the module that has the buttons. While you are at the dealer, have them give you a copy of the wiring schematic - you will have to run a jumper wire from the module on the left side of the dash to the center display. The only question left is whether the display was an original "grade" module or the more recent universal module. If it's a grade, you will need to get the center display part also.

Mustang - any thoughts on this? What's the "module on the left side of the dash" that he's talking about, and what about the jumper...?

mustang67408
01-23-2010, 12:44 PM
Here's a quote from "Indytruckchampion" at TT forum (I did a Google search for the problem we're having).
Go to a dealer and get the module that has the buttons. While you are at the dealer, have them give you a copy of the wiring schematic - you will have to run a jumper wire from the module on the left side of the dash to the center display. The only question left is whether the display was an original "grade" module or the more recent universal module. If it's a grade, you will need to get the center display part also.

Mustang - any thoughts on this? What's the "module on the left side of the dash" that he's talking about, and what about the jumper...?
I have no idea.
You need to get ahold of him, if you get the info pass it along so we all learn, cause i know it can be done 1 way or another.

martym
01-23-2010, 01:35 PM
Bad news I to just got the "02" monitor switch today. All I can do is change F to C . I agree the new swicth looks better than the blank.Oh well. The truck is a 2010 dbl cab/towing pkg/split front seats/5.7. I reaplaced my 02 sr5 4wd with this truck.Haven't towed with it yet but the preformance is awsome!

martym
01-23-2010, 01:43 PM
Just got the "02" switch today. All I can do is change F to C. Oh well. It looks better the the blank. The truck is a 2010 dbl cab 5.7 2wd split front seats with tow pkg. I replaced my 02 SR5 4wd with this vehicle. The preformance of the new truck is awsome! Can't wait until our trip to Fla with the boat.

tbaxl
01-23-2010, 05:55 PM
mustang, thanks for your time and help and i have another question. i already have the correct switch assembly what is the accessory meter, where is it and what does it do. just trying to learn something here.
tim


Nothing in the techstream.

It THEORY it should only require a new switch assembly and new accessory meter. (part #'s listed above), but may also need a combination meter( i doubt it tho), But since no of us have done it there is a question about if it works....someone is going to have to experiment and find out.

mustang67408
01-24-2010, 11:54 AM
mustang, thanks for your time and help and i have another question. i already have the correct switch assembly what is the accessory meter, where is it and what does it do. just trying to learn something here.
tim
The accessory meter is your "CLOCK"
The component that displays the clock time and other things like MGP/Temp ect.. is the accessory meter.

tbaxl
01-24-2010, 01:28 PM
The accessory meter is your "CLOCK"
The component that displays the clock time and other things like MGP/Temp ect.. is the accessory meter.

thank you, what if i can see all the necessary digits with a flashlight, are you sure there is no techstream flash if it seems all components are there? mine is a late 09 with all the changes for a 2010 model.
tim

mustang67408
01-24-2010, 01:48 PM
thank you, what if i can see all the necessary digits with a flashlight, are you sure there is no techstream flash if it seems all components are there? mine is a late 09 with all the changes for a 2010 model.
tim
all you see is where the LED'S WOULD SHINE THRU TO DISPLAY whatever word or symbol needs to be displayed.
The computer chips/microchips, led's are not inside the unit. Thats whay they offer 2 versions.
I am 110% sure there is no flash update,one of my parts guys has a tundragrade truck and we searched and found nothing.If it was there I would have found it by now and done this to many of the las vegas TS members and anyone who knows me knows i would share it here on TS.
If i did miss it, i would hope someone would correct me, but i know its not there. It's almost never as easy as we want it to be, sorry.

red4rr
01-24-2010, 01:55 PM
Hey Mustang67408, I got a question for ya. I bought a 08 5.7 crewmax and it said on the sticker grade tundra, but I ran the vin and it says SR5. Do you know why? Is the crewmax 5.7 grade a stripped down SR5? I got a bench seat, cloth, and nothing other than power windows and locks.

mustang67408
01-24-2010, 02:01 PM
Hey Mustang67408, I got a question for ya. I bought a 08 5.7 crewmax and it said on the sticker grade tundra, but I ran the vin and it says SR5. Do you know why? Is the crewmax 5.7 grade a stripped down SR5? I got a bench seat, cloth, and nothing other than power windows and locks.
If you wouldnt mind PM me your VIN let me look it up so I can see what toyota says it has or if something has been deleted. I can't do it today and will do it tomorrow,
Thanks

PoPo
01-24-2010, 02:34 PM
Seriously guys... If you haven't already sent rep points to this man (MUSTANG67408) you best do it !!! I've gotta say, he's probably the most helpful guy I've met on TS yet. We'll have to start calling him "Chancellor" or something !! :):

izzman
01-24-2010, 02:50 PM
So from what I gather reading between these different threads, if I order part # 84977-0C020 it should work on my 2010 CM Rock Warrior correct? or is there cases where it didn't work on the RW? (I haven't been able to find any)

Thanks

Tundraaa
01-24-2010, 02:57 PM
So from what I gather reading between these different threads, if I order part # 84977-0C020 it should work on my 2010 CM Rock Warrior correct? or is there cases where it didn't work on the RW? (I haven't been able to find any)

Thanks

izzman, i have 2010 DC RW. i ordered it from partznet and it should be here in couple of days hopefully. will let you know if it works :)

tonyspin
01-24-2010, 03:00 PM
I have an 08 Grade, with the 1 button that changes the display from F to C. MY understanding of this is that if I can see the MPG, Range, etc. in my display, and have 8 wires from the harness behind my switch, I might have a shot of this working?

izzman
01-24-2010, 03:02 PM
izzman, i have 2010 DC RW. i ordered it from partznet and it should be here in couple of days hopefully. will let you know if it works :)

Awesome, I will wait to see if you have any luck before I order one as well.

Thanks:)

PoPo
01-24-2010, 03:03 PM
I have an 08 Grade, with the 1 button that changes the display from F to C. MY understanding of this is that if I can see the MPG, Range, etc. in my display, and have 8 wires from the harness behind my switch, I might have a shot of this working?

Sounds like this MAY work if you purchase the Combo-Switch (ending in 0C020) and the other accessory meter (your dash-display). We're still waiting for someone to guinea-pig it. Mustang06748 posted the part# for the accessory meter a few posts back...

Gixxer1k
01-24-2010, 03:13 PM
From the schematics that were posted a couple pages back, it would appear that the switches are truly just switches closing a circuit between the various functions and a common/ground. If that is the case, it would seem like you could simply connect contact 2 (info button) and 5 (common/ground) of the connector and it should switch the display?

If this works, it'd be an extremely easy way to figure out if buying the switches would work for you.

pazorell69
01-24-2010, 03:14 PM
I Got mine in the junk yard for $10 while I was in texas ..! and work just fine ! plug & play !

tonyspin
01-24-2010, 03:22 PM
Sounds like this MAY work if you purchase the Combo-Switch (ending in 0C020) and the other accessory meter (your dash-display). We're still waiting for someone to guinea-pig it. Mustang06748 posted the part# for the accessory meter a few posts back...

I can see the MPG, Range, etc. in my accessory meter when I shine a light on it. I still have to get a new one?

PoPo
01-24-2010, 03:26 PM
I can see the MPG, Range, etc. in my accessory meter when I shine a light on it. I still have to get a new one?

Yes, Mustang posted a few posts back, that there are 2 accessory meters: one with functioning diodes behind the display, and one without. Looks like the display glass is all the same, but it's what's behind the glass that we need.

tonyspin
01-24-2010, 03:30 PM
Yes, Mustang posted a few posts back, that there are 2 accessory meters: one with functioning diodes behind the display, and one without. Looks like the display glass is all the same, but it's what's behind the glass that we need.

Ah...I missed that, thanks

tbaxl
01-24-2010, 04:10 PM
all you see is where the LED'S WOULD SHINE THRU TO DISPLAY whatever word or symbol needs to be displayed.
The computer chips/microchips, led's are not inside the unit. Thats whay they offer 2 versions.
I am 110% sure there is no flash update,one of my parts guys has a tundragrade truck and we searched and found nothing.If it was there I would have found it by now and done this to many of the las vegas TS members and anyone who knows me knows i would share it here on TS.
If i did miss it, i would hope someone would correct me, but i know its not there. It's almost never as easy as we want it to be, sorry.

i do not doubt you, was just hoping you missed something you have been very helpful and patient with all the questions asked.
tim

SE2000
01-25-2010, 07:02 AM
I was just looking through Mustangs pdfs and I see that there is a distiction made with truck made before or after nov 09.
So if we could get a response from everyone when their truck was made ,this might help. the guys with 07 or 08 need not respond as it should be obvious

MacCTD
01-25-2010, 08:41 AM
I was just looking through Mustangs pdfs and I see that there is a distiction made with truck made before or after nov 09.
So if we could get a response from everyone when their truck was made ,this might help. the guys with 07 or 08 need not respond as it should be obvious


'10 CM 5.7 grade with bench seat built 9/10/09 84977-0C020 did not work on mine.

dariusld
01-25-2010, 10:23 AM
the guys with 07 or 08 need not respond as it should be obvious

What should be obvious?

07Tundra350
01-25-2010, 10:43 AM
I Got mine in the junk yard for $10 while I was in texas ..! and work just fine ! plug & play !

What are the options on your truck?? Is it a 4x4 with the towing package??

Fragman
01-25-2010, 11:01 AM
What should be obvious?That it was made before November 2009......

Fragman
01-25-2010, 11:06 AM
Also, something to throw into the pot. I pulled off my blanking plate the other day and it has an 8pin conncector, but only 6 wires. Pins 6 and 7 have nothing.
BTW, I didnt have to pull out the whole silver bit, the black 4 switch blanking plate just eases out with your fingers.

Sweet Mercy
01-25-2010, 12:27 PM
I have a RCSB SR5 and have changed the accessory meter, combo meter and even have the Optitron gauges. I too have 8 wires that connect to the combo meter. Still no MPG display in the accessory meter or even in the limited gauge cluster which is where it would go after changing the cluster. I attached the thread below detailing everything I tried. But after reading this 8 page thread I think I'm more confused than when I started. :unsure3d::unsure3d::unsure3d:


http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/172584-still-trying-to-enable-mpg-display/

PoPo
01-25-2010, 01:05 PM
Okay fellas - looks like the guys here with the RockWarrior package have gotten the display to work by just adding the combo-switch buttons ...-0C020. So, if anyone has a diagram, we need to figure out what the RockWarrior has pre-wired or connected that the rest of us don't have.

Anyone have any info on this????

mustang67408
01-25-2010, 01:08 PM
TundraGrades = Not wired (personal experience)

Deluxe = probably Not Wired, waiting for an e-mail from a TS member. He is going to check the wiring with my help. He thought his was an SR5 and I ran the VIN and it is a DLX, my guess is that it is not wired. (there will be missing wires in the middle of the harness, even tho the plug for the switch is there)time will tell on this. Ill repost what we find

SR5 = Unknown at this time

RockWarrior = Wired = plug and play ( from previous posts of people who have done this)

MyITGuy
01-25-2010, 01:59 PM
TundraGrades = Not wired (personal experience)

Deluxe = probably Not Wired, waiting for an e-mail from a TS member. He is going to check the wiring with my help. He thought his was an SR5 and I ran the VIN and it is a DLX, my guess is that it is not wired. (there will be missing wires in the middle of the harness, even tho the plug for the switch is there)time will tell on this. Ill repost what we find

SR5 = Unknown at this time

RockWarrior = Wired = plag and play ( from previous posts of people who have done this)

Don't know if it helps since mine is an 07, but I have an SR5 Crewmax and it has the 8 pin adapter, but only 6 wires coming out of it (2nd and 3rd from the end).

PoPo
01-25-2010, 02:09 PM
Don't know if it helps since mine is an 07, but I have an SR5 Crewmax and it has the 8 pin adapter, but only 6 wires coming out of it (2nd and 3rd from the end).

hmm... and I have a '10 CM with bench seats, and my plug has 8 wires going into the blank switch.

Mustang --- I didn't even know we had a Deluxe option out there?!?!?! My window sticker and/or V.I.R. doesn't say anything either way; just that it's a crewmax 5.7 4x4... no grade mentioned.

Also... any RW guys wanna remove their accessory meter & see what part# it is? That way, the rest of us can compare, and see if buying that accessory meter is the 1st step. If you have it and we have it too.... and our buttons still aren't working, then obviously there's something else missing. But, that would be a very helpful start for this!

Thanks in advance - Hopefully a RW owner can oblige us on this one to help solve the mystery!!!

mustang67408
01-25-2010, 03:31 PM
Where is everyone running their VIN's on a decoder, so far the last 2 VIN's I have checked, THE DECODER WAS INCORRECT.

ahowudoin
01-25-2010, 06:01 PM
My 09 DC RW has 8 wires.Has anybody got this to work that wasn't a 2010?

nydegger
01-25-2010, 06:03 PM
I am totally confused. I would like this option on mine if I can get it to work.
I have a 07 Tundra SR5 with bench seats and the TOW package. I currently have the 1 button US/M, I can also see the "avg" and other text in the display. Any thoughts if a new C02 buttons could get this working? It was pre-wired and I have added the backup camera and drop down display and from looking underneath the back it looks like the sonar is wired also, or atleast there is another empty connector.

captgnarley
01-25-2010, 07:19 PM
Hey Mustang, thanks for taking the time to tell us all the info on this. I appreciate it. If you need any info on an 08 SR5 RCLB 5.7 2wd, let me know.

ahowudoin
01-25-2010, 08:06 PM
From the wireing diagram. It looks like only 6 wires are needed 1 ground, 3 to the cluster,and 2 for interior light system
[

mustang67408
01-25-2010, 08:58 PM
I am totally confused. I would like this option on mine if I can get it to work.
I have a 07 Tundra SR5 with bench seats and the TOW package. I currently have the 1 button US/M, I can also see the "avg" and other text in the display. Any thoughts if a new C02 buttons could get this working? It was pre-wired and I have added the backup camera and drop down display and from looking underneath the back it looks like the sonar is wired also, or atleast there is another empty connector.
no body knows on the SR5. hasnt been anyone willing to buy the parts, because they are non returnable.
the last 2 people that said they had SR5's in fact had TUNDRAGRADES, and those can not be done without alot of wiring which can not be bought from toyota. the connectors and pins are not available.its a nightmare which i dont ever want to do again.

I am working thru the internet with another TS member, he is checking his wiring and we will post later in the week. this takes alot of time. the connectors are not easy to get to, and its snowing where he is at.


From the wireing diagram. It looks like only 6 wires are needed 1 ground, 3 to the cluster,and 2 for interior light system yes your right

Sweet Mercy
01-26-2010, 09:21 AM
Here is what I have at my "switch/combo meter" as far as wiring. 8 total wires and the colors are:

Top to bottom:
1. Pink
2. Seafoam Green
3. Light Blue
4. Blue
5. White/Black
6. White
7. Purple
8. Baby Blue (in between #3 & 4)

Even with a new "switch", "accessory meter" and now gauge cluster, I still have no MPG display. Mustang is working with me to try an sort through this. I believe a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter) to test the wiring is next.

When I started fooling around with this months ago, my research only came up with a total of 4 possible accessory meters, at that time anyway. Here is what I found:

823900 C030--This one must be the basic.
832900 C060--This is the one my truck (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/#) had according to the parts department when I gave them my VIN#. Outside temp, clock and security indicator.
832900 C090--This one must add sonar????
832900 C100--This is the one I ordered and a picture is included. It must add sonar and the cruise info.

I have NO idea what part number I ordered on the combo meter put I included a picture of it.

Gixxer1k
01-26-2010, 09:45 AM
I still want to know if the switches are just momentary switches, ... Anyone willing to check theirs?

As I posted earlier, if they are truly just a momentary switch, then everyone should be able to check things out by using a jumper wire to momentarily close one of the circuits to change the display. The schematic has the wires/plug well labeled - if this works and I am reading it right, 2 to 5 should change the display.

I'm going to try to get to the local junk yard and try and find the switches on the cheap.

captgnarley
01-26-2010, 10:12 AM
I still want to know if the switches are just momentary switches, ... Anyone willing to check theirs?

As I posted earlier, if they are truly just a momentary switch, then everyone should be able to check things out by using a jumper wire to momentarily close one of the circuits to change the display. The schematic has the wires/plug well labeled - if this works and I am reading it right, 2 to 5 should change the display.

I'm going to try to get to the local junk yard and try and find the switches on the cheap.

I just tried to jump pin 2 to 5 and nothing changed at all.

Frankenstein
01-26-2010, 10:16 AM
Since the switches stay depressed when you press them, they would be open or closed switches, not momentary switches.
As for the rest, it appears, to summarize, that you need the display, the switches, and the correct wires. Some trucks have the display and wires and only need to add a switch (RockWarrior) and some have the plug but not the display, correct wiring, or switches. So in the latter case, even replacing the display and the switch won't give you any reading: you also need to run some wires.
It sounds like this is a PITA judging from Mustang's posts.

Gixxer1k
01-26-2010, 10:36 AM
I just tried to jump pin 2 to 5 and nothing changed at all.

Did you have/try the switches too?

captgnarley
01-26-2010, 10:40 AM
Yes, I have the new switch ending in 20. I have the new display on the way.

kmartel
01-26-2010, 10:59 AM
Yes, I have the new switch ending in 20. I have the new display on the way.

Keep us posted, very interested you results since I also have a 2008 rcsb, I have 5.7 and bench seat.

SE2000
01-26-2010, 01:03 PM
I still want to know if the switches are just momentary switches, ... Anyone willing to check theirs?

As I posted earlier, if they are truly just a momentary switch, then everyone should be able to check things out by using a jumper wire to momentarily close one of the circuits to change the display. The schematic has the wires/plug well labeled - if this works and I am reading it right, 2 to 5 should change the display.

I'm going to try to get to the local junk yard and try and find the switches on the cheap.
I am guessing it may be sending a can signal, so shorting out pins doesn't seem likely to work.
Mustang are all 2nd gen can bus or are some odbII?

Gixxer1k
01-26-2010, 02:45 PM
I am guessing it may be sending a can signal, so shorting out pins doesn't seem likely to work.
Mustang are all 2nd gen can bus or are some odbII?

I guess that's my point, though, ... the switch, unless there is something else embedded in the housing, is just a switch (or is at least in theory until I have one to look at). That being the case, shorting the wires per the schematic should do the trick if the switches are going to work at all.

My Tundra is a Rock Warrior, I'm guessing it will work on mine, but I am going to wait to pull things apart until I have a switch so that I don't wind up doing it twice. Of course with my luck, my RW will be the one that it doesn't work on.

07Tundra350
01-26-2010, 03:49 PM
Yes, I have the new switch ending in 20. I have the new display on the way.

Really curious to see if it works on yours also, considering my truck is almost identical except for 4x4!! :D

dariusld
01-27-2010, 06:06 PM
With this long thread of "it didn't work for me" I was sure it was a no work for me. But guess what.......:):):):):):):) I borrowed a buddy's switch and :first: His is a sr5 with JBL, w/o sonar, w/o . Mine is a grade truck...... I think. I read one place in the paperwork that said grade and somewhere else it said SR5:confused: I don't have JBL.

mustang67408
01-27-2010, 06:37 PM
With this long thread of "it didn't work for me" I was sure it was a no work for me. But guess what.......:):):):):):):) I borrowed a buddy's switch and :first: His is a sr5 with JBL, w/o sonar, w/o . Mine is a grade truck...... I think. I read one place in the paperwork that said grade and somewhere else it said SR5:confused: I don't have JBL.
PM me your VIN and Ill check tomorrow what the TOYOTA DECODER says.
I know the GRADE truck I did, it didnt work until we wired it.

tonyspin
01-27-2010, 07:16 PM
With this long thread of "it didn't work for me" I was sure it was a no work for me. But guess what.......:):):):):):):) I borrowed a buddy's switch and :first: His is a sr5 with JBL, w/o sonar, w/o . Mine is a grade truck...... I think. I read one place in the paperwork that said grade and somewhere else it said SR5:confused: I don't have JBL.


Hmm....Your truck looks to be the same as mine. You have a 5.7? 4X4?

Fragman
01-27-2010, 08:12 PM
With this long thread of "it didn't work for me" I was sure it was a no work for me. But guess what.......:):):):):):):) I borrowed a buddy's switch and :first: His is a sr5 with JBL, w/o sonar, w/o . Mine is a grade truck...... I think. I read one place in the paperwork that said grade and somewhere else it said SR5:confused: I don't have JBL.
How many wires were connected to the 8 pin connector that went into the back of the switch on your truck?

dariusld
01-27-2010, 09:03 PM
No 4x4.I have 5.7. and 8 wires to the switch. All I did was switch switches, nothing else.

captgnarley
01-27-2010, 10:21 PM
What switch did you get? The 020?

saki302
01-28-2010, 04:37 AM
How hard is i tto pull the accessory meter? The switch didn't work on mine- but I'm curious to pull the accy meter and try and get the P/N off it.

2008 RCSB 5.7- mine did have SR5 badging :D (debadged)

-Dave

Sweet Mercy
01-28-2010, 05:39 PM
How hard is i tto pull the accessory meter? The switch didn't work on mine- but I'm curious to pull the accy meter and try and get the P/N off it.

2008 RCSB 5.7- mine did have SR5 badging :D (debadged)

-Dave



Dave,

It only took the master tech an hour to change mine but he knew a short cut that involved removing the radio and going in that way instead of removing the dash. Not sure what the recommended procedure is but that's what he did and had no issues.

As far as getting it to work on a RC, if you can give me a day, I should have a better answer for you on this. I also have a RCSB 5.7 with SR5 badging. I have changed the switch and the accy meter but still nothing. With the help and guidance of Mustang we're close to tracking down the reason(s) mine doesn't work YET.

I have 8 wires at the switch. After the 4 necessary wires were traced to JL1, I found that only 2 wires continued at that point. The two missing wires control the MPG and Reset buttons on the switch. The two wires that continued were a ground I believe and the other controled the Setup button which changed my temp F and C display.

I'm having the 2 missing wires from JL1 put in place hopefully tomorrow. They go to the Combo meter/gauge cluster. There is a good chance mine will work after this but can't be sure until then. I have the Optitron gauges so my MPG display will be in the gauge cluster and not the accy meter so I replaced that for nothing.

I'll let you know tomorrow, pending the correct pins make it in, which they need for the connector and combo meter.

PoPo
01-28-2010, 06:17 PM
Dave, It only took the master tech an hour to change mine but he knew a short cut that involved removing the radio and going in that way instead of removing the dash. Not sure what the recommended procedure is but that's what he did and had no issues.

As far as getting it to work on a RC, if you can give me a day, I should have a better answer for you on this. I also have a RCSB 5.7 with SR5 badging. I have changed the switch and the accy meter but still nothing. With the help and guidance of Mustang we're close to tracking down the reason(s) mine doesn't work YET.

I have 8 wires at the switch. After the 4 necessary wires were traced to JL1, I found that only 2 wires continued at that point. The two missing wires control the MPG and Reset buttons on the switch. The two wires that continued were a ground I believe and the other controled the Setup button which changed my temp F and C display.

I'm having the 2 missing wires from JL1 put in place hopefully tomorrow. They go to the Combo meter/gauge cluster. There is a good chance mine will work after this but can't be sure until then. I have the Optitron gauges so my MPG display will be in the gauge cluster and not the accy meter so I replaced that for nothing.

I'll let you know tomorrow, pending the correct pins make it in, which they need for the connector and combo meter.


Well, I'm only guessing on this... but those 2 wires have to go somewhere to get the information for calculating MPG's. So, I would guess that leaves us only 2 options:
A) The wires go to the ECU, which tells them the information for MPG's, which it gathers from other sources from the car.
~or~
B) The wires go to the gauge cluster, connecting to the Odomoter & also to the Fuel Gauge.... I say this because Distance Traveled & Fuel Level are what I would assume are used to calculating MPG's. Then, maybe the accessory meter get's those numbers, and does the calculations.

But, since the select/reset button isn't working right now either, it makes me assume that the ECU is what's in control of these calculations. Selecting Current MPG, Average MPG, and Miles remaining, would have to be instantaneous calculations, so unless the accessory meter has it's own computer to do these calculations, it makes more sense that it's the ECU that controls it. Maybe this means that we just need the proper wires connected (Like Mustang stated earlier)... and maybe the ECU is already programmed to handle the calculations, as long as it's getting the information from the gauges.

I had my dash apart yesterday, cause I was installing a new radio in my truck. I noticed that there are a number of un-plugged wire harnesses behind my dash-cluster. I was running out of time (and it was friggin cold out in my driveway) so I couldn't take the time to trace the wires & the harnesses. It's possible, and likely, that one of these harnesses are going to need to be connected for this to work. It may be as simple as buying the new Combo Switch, Buying the new accessory meter, and then making sure the proper harnesses are plugged in to the proper places. Once it gets warmer, and I have more time, I'll try to take the dash apart & map the wire-harnesses.

I guess for those of you that have purchased the accessory meter & combo-switch --- try to get behind your gauge-cluster, and plug in the un-plugged harnesses into whatever slots they'll fit into. This might be all that is necessary (let's cross our fingers!)

And, let me know your thoughts on this.

tbaxl
01-28-2010, 06:53 PM
popo thanks for your time also, keep up the good work and keep us informed.
tim

Fragman
01-28-2010, 08:26 PM
You know, for all the effort and cost, is it worth it, really? Or are some of us in it for the challenge now? Absolutely nothing wrong with that by the way. I sure am intrigued, especially as I have a GRADE.

I know blanked off switches just don't look good, but, maybe that section could be used for something else? I mean, it's galling enough to drop $75 on an item that maybe cost $3 to make, but adding in accessory meters, along with the time and effort, just to get mpg info? Maybe I could buy the switch set and have them do something else? Rocket launchers would be nice :D. Or a set of lights, an override for a rear view camera so it worked going forwards, one of those higher intensity reverse lights, you know, something? Just for those where this just isn't going to work. Then we would have truly unique buttons.

Not wanting to deter anyone, thats not my intention. This has been the best thread I've ever seen on this very popular mod request. Which reminds, me, I need to give Rep points to popo for starting this thread and keeping it rolling. Also mustang!
Anyway, just throwing out an alternative for those blanked buttons......

I already own a ScanGauge II from before I had the Tundra, and maybe I oughta just mount that over the mirror or something. Then, I could have MPG info as well as a load of other info, as well as the rocket launchers, camera override, auxillary reverse lights and ejector seat.

PoPo
01-28-2010, 08:51 PM
Maybe I could buy the switch set and have them do something else? Rocket launchers would be nice :D.
I already own a ScanGauge II from before I had the Tundra, and maybe I oughta just mount that over the mirror or something. Then, I could have MPG info as well as a load of other info, as well as the rocket launchers, camera override, auxillary reverse lights and ejector seat.

LOL - Let me know what kind of prices you find for the launchers! LOL

As far as the scangauge... I've been thinking of abandoning this & going that route as well. Although, doing the research, I found a product made by BullyDog that shows all the stuff the scangauge does, but also shows performance stuff, like 0-60, 1/8, 1/4 times, and somehow also shows HP & Torque numbers.

But - and this is for encouragement !!!!! If it turns out that we just need the Combo-Switch & the Accessory Meter upgrade... and the empty harnesses behind the gauge-cluster end up being the missing link (let's cross our fingers for this)... then this "MOD" will cost less than $200.

I'd happily pay that for the stock buttons to work (just to have them), and then pay the $250 for the BullyDog scanner for the performance display numbers too.

captgnarley
01-29-2010, 01:46 AM
I'm in it for the challenge and knowledge. 2 of my buddies have tundras too. I've wired a stereo system, rear camera, seat heaters, bluetooth... all of which was a piece of cake. This has been the most frustrating so far. I'm past the point of no return.

M.I.A. Cycles
01-29-2010, 05:06 AM
I'm in it for the challenge and knowledge. 2 of my buddies have tundras too. I've wired a stereo system, rear camera, seat heaters, bluetooth... all of which was a piece of cake. This has been the most frustrating so far. I'm past the point of no return.

That's the spirit, don't let Toyota engineering beat out Yankee ingenuity!!! Besides I want to do this too!!!

SE2000
01-29-2010, 07:43 AM
This will have to be a personal choice thing. I don't care about the blank buttons but i would prefer the dash display over the scanguage display so i am willing to pursue. if the accessory meter needs components, I'd be willing to add those for myself and others. if it comes down to wiring, we would most likely to be on our own but with directions, it should be easy enough.

Anybody got access to a junk tundra to pull parts? Or already have parts?

07Tundra350
01-29-2010, 08:19 AM
I'm in it for the challenge and knowledge. 2 of my buddies have tundras too. I've wired a stereo system, rear camera, seat heaters, bluetooth... all of which was a piece of cake. This has been the most frustrating so far. I'm past the point of no return.

Did you receive your acess meter yet and try it?? I am crossing my fingers for yah!!

Fragman
01-29-2010, 08:47 AM
See? You guys rock! It just isn't about the cost anymore, but a matter of not being beaten bywhat SHOULD be a simple problem. At the end of this, if we get a definitive guide of what options, what year, what package will work with what acc meter, what switch combo, it will be a major achievement that has basically baffled everyone since this Gen came out.

Still want the rocket launchers though.,,,,,,,,

SE2000
01-29-2010, 03:25 PM
I too like this as it is a true mod, not like some mods. It will take the community working together to have a solution

wikidoki
01-29-2010, 07:48 PM
I was going to get the scan type display but found this post shortly after starting to look. I have a '10 RW and took the advice provided here. I ordered from Partznet. It came today and the blank button set popped out of the dash and I then popped the new set in after plugging in the wires. All set, works great.The back light in the switch set matches the other lights on the dash. I ordered the switches for the 07 Tundra per previous instructions. Thanks T.S. members, great mod. It literally took 2 minutes. I do not understand why RW's work without issue and Grade trucks do not.

PoPo
01-29-2010, 08:33 PM
I was going to get the scan type display but found this post shortly after starting to look. I have a '10 RW and took the advice provided here. I ordered from Partznet. It came today and the blank button set popped out of the dash and I then popped the new set in after plugging in the wires. All set, works great.The back light in the switch set matches the other lights on the dash. I ordered the switches for the 07 Tundra per previous instructions. Thanks T.S. members, great mod. It literally took 2 minutes. I do not understand why RW's work without issue and Grade trucks do not.

Glad it worked for ya!!! ... don't forget to rate the thread, and post rep pts for any of the members that helped ya; we've got alot of guys that chipped in on this one, and we're still not done !!! Maybe I can get the moderators to rename this thread for me, and we can just call it "The Official MPG BUTTON ADD-ON thread" --- (if any of you guys are watching this, any way we can do that?)

mustang67408
01-30-2010, 07:49 AM
I was going to get the scan type display but found this post shortly after starting to look. I have a '10 RW and took the advice provided here. I ordered from Partznet. It came today and the blank button set popped out of the dash and I then popped the new set in after plugging in the wires. All set, works great.The back light in the switch set matches the other lights on the dash. I ordered the switches for the 07 Tundra per previous instructions. Thanks T.S. members, great mod. It literally took 2 minutes. I do not understand why RW's work without issue and Grade trucks do not.
Grade trucks are the cheapeast trucks, they have certain things deleted to save on costs. This includes different wiring harnesses and things like that.
DLX trucks have had a few things added back, but not enough to officially make it an SR5. Different wire harness so far we found.
SR5 trucks have almost everything, but are short things to make it a limited,and whats not there ,most of it seems to be able to be added back
Limited Trucks have everything
RW trucks are a limited edition and what's not there ,most of it seems to be able to be added back

SE2000
01-30-2010, 08:00 AM
So we have been calling our truck grade when they are most likely DLX. Grade must be the work truck. rubber floor type.
Since mine is basic but being part of a special program, I'm thinking DLX so I have a shot.

mustang67408
01-30-2010, 08:23 AM
I can check anyones VIN's if they want and see what the TOYOTA DECODER SAYS.
I dont trust any other decoders. Last 3 trucks, 2 have been wrong.

Alcoholicaust
01-30-2010, 08:48 AM
This thread is long. Did you try holding down the buttons? I hold mine down to reset.

tonyspin
01-30-2010, 06:54 PM
I have the Scangauge and it is able to display many things besides MPG including HP, coolant temp, volts and many others. It displays 4 different gauges at a time and you can scroll each gauge for others. I would still like to have the stock info buttons and display, and I think I have a shot at it because my truck is similar to dariusld's truck, and the buttons worked on his. Maybe there is someone on LI that has the buttons and would be willing to let me try them on my truck?

PoPo
01-30-2010, 07:12 PM
This thread is long. Did you try holding down the buttons? I hold mine down to reset.

Is this a serious post :confused: ???

saki302
01-31-2010, 01:57 AM
Sweet Mercy-

Any news on your install? :D

-Dave

SE2000
01-31-2010, 08:49 AM
The idea of getting together and trying on a bunch of trucks is a good one. Maybe we could minimize our losses this way. There are several people on LI that could get together. Same here in Albany.
How many people would be willing to meet in Albany to try this? This could be done in Fl. TX or any other place where several people are interested

tj77
01-31-2010, 11:32 AM
WoooooHooooo, it worked. I bought the info buttons a couple weeks ago, and finally just put then in, started the truck and bingo i can the MPG, and mile to empty. I so happy it worked and I didn't waste the $75.

I have an 09 DC Rock Warrior.

SE2000
01-31-2010, 12:46 PM
WoooooHooooo, it worked. I bought the info buttons a couple weeks ago, and finally just put then in, started the truck and bingo i can the MPG, and mile to empty. I so happy it worked and I didn't waste the $75.

I have an 09 DC Rock Warrior.

Date of manufacture?


Congrats

PoPo
01-31-2010, 01:10 PM
WoooooHooooo, it worked. I bought the info buttons a couple weeks ago, and finally just put then in, started the truck and bingo i can the MPG, and mile to empty. I so happy it worked and I didn't waste the $75.

I have an 09 DC Rock Warrior.

Congrats! Glad it worked for ya!

tbaxl
01-31-2010, 06:19 PM
i think there is more to this than a wiring harness. i think it is there just missing something. i have a grade truck. homelink went in no problem (wires were there) bumper sensor wires are there just no holes or sensors, back up campera wire is there info wires are there, i think we are missing something simple, so obvious we just do not see it. i know i am being told otherwise but either a techstream update or just some wires behind the dash need to be connected. i just have not had the time to personally confirm or deny my suspicions.
tim

mustang67408
01-31-2010, 07:51 PM
i think there is more to this than a wiring harness. i think it is there just missing something. i have a grade truck. homelink went in no problem (wires were there) bumper sensor wires are there just no holes or sensors, back up campera wire is there info wires are there, i think we are missing something simple, so obvious we just do not see it. i know i am being told otherwise but either a techstream update or just some wires behind the dash need to be connected. i just have not had the time to personally confirm or deny my suspicions.
tim
Noting in techstream 110% sure

Download the wire diagrams I posted and follow the wires from the SWITCH to connectors JK2 & JL1. The other TUNDRA GRADE TRUCK had the wires to those connections and then there were no wires frome there to the combometer & to the accessory meter. We put those in. Also had to change the ACC meter, once the wires were oin the original acc meter still didnt work.
We also added cruise with just a switch, plug and play, those wires were there like you stated amongst other wires. His fog light were plug and play too. Added lights and the toyota switch.
There is no ryme mor reason as to why those wires might be missing, just another unsolved mystery, but you can make a quick check with the diagrams I posted.
Sweet Mercy has a TunGrad and his wires were missing as I thought just like the last one, bu maybe they chaged something along the way. i really hope your wires are there. love to see people modding their trucks with factory parts.

nydegger
02-01-2010, 02:14 PM
I have a 07 DC SR5 with tow package and bench seats and can confirm that replacing the buttons with 0C020 does not work. Thanks Mustang67408 for checking my VIN.
Guess I will wait a little longer to see if there is more info before ordering the new ACC METER - 0C090.
I also found this web site for checking VIN's, seems to work pretty good as well as searching for part numbers.
http://www.toyodiy.com/
This site listed my truck as Grade"SR5" same as mustang67408.

PoPo
02-01-2010, 02:19 PM
I have a 07 DC SR5 with tow package and bench seats and can confirm that replacing the buttons with 0C020 does not work. Thanks Mustang67408 for checking my VIN.
Guess I will wait a little longer to see if there is more info before ordering the new ACC METER - 0C090.
I also found this web site for checking VIN's, seems to work pretty good as well as searching for part numbers.
http://www.toyodiy.com/
This site listed my truck as Grade"SR5" same as mustang67408.

Thanks for the VIN-Check site.... Looks like you're the first one who's tried this with an SR5 and NOT worked; I'm surprised at that. The plot thickens!!!

SE2000
02-01-2010, 04:52 PM
Popo, have you tried yours with a 20 switch yet?

ahowudoin
02-01-2010, 05:17 PM
WoooooHooooo, it worked. I bought the info buttons a couple weeks ago, and finally just put then in, started the truck and bingo i can the MPG, and mile to empty. I so happy it worked and I didn't waste the $75.

I have an 09 DC Rock Warrior.
Cool, I have the same truck. What part#? The 020?

Onpointtundra
02-01-2010, 05:27 PM
Well I used that vin site and came up with some crazy stuff. I PM'd Mustang to see if he can check my vin and see who's right.

PoPo
02-01-2010, 08:53 PM
Popo, have you tried yours with a 20 switch yet?No - been finishing up a remod project on my house all week, and probably will be busy for a couple more at this rate :eek:. From the sounds of it, mine probably won't work with either of the combo switches, until we figure out where the missing wires are. I haven't had a chance to check the diagram that Mustang posted up yet either... But, if it turns out that I have to spend $200, plus do a bunch of crazy wiring, I'll probably just skip it and buy the aftermarket scanner, probably the BullyDog one I found.

At least we've figured out so far that ALL of the RockWarrior trucks work, and it seems like all but the 1 SR5 trucks worked as well.

SLATE
02-01-2010, 11:19 PM
Well according to this site http://www.toyodiy.com/ mine is a DLX reg cab when I thought it was an SR5 and mine has 6 wires:confused:

either way props to popo and dont give up on this mod, theres gonna be something;)
It better be something so easy that we have just missed to check/do lol

Sweet Mercy
02-02-2010, 12:45 PM
Okay boys and girls. I officially have the MPG display working as of today. Pictures are attached!! I have a RCSB marked as an SR5 upgrade but when Mustang ran the VIN it shows as a Deluxe I believe. A huge thanks to Mustang and my local dealer for working with me on this. Here's the scoop.

What I did have: 8 wires behind the "Switch". From there, the wires were traced to JL1. There are 4 wires necessary for the MPG to work. I had all 4 coming in.

What I didn't have: Only 2 going out to the combo meter. The master tech ordered the appropriate pins, Part# 90980-12372 and Part# 82998-24290 (2) each, ran the wire and it was done. Now, to be clear, my MPG data is in the gauge cluster because I have the optitron gauges. If I did not have the optitron gauges, I would have needed to wire from the combo meter to the accy meter to complete it. I do not have the info on that part. I can't believe, or I guess I can, Toyota left out two wires and the switch.

This was the same case when I installed the power fold mirrors. I had everything except for a couple of wires and the new switch. Oh well, it's done and I absolutely love it. I can see Current Fuel Economy in the form of a horizontal bar graph that moves instantly depending on fuel consumption, Avg. Fuel Economy, Avg. Speed, Distance to Empty and a Trip Timer. Again, pictures are attached. This is a great mod!!! and so much cleaner than the aftermarket alternatives, IMO.

PoPo
02-02-2010, 01:03 PM
Okay boys and girls. I officially have the MPG display working as of today....Awesome! Was the wiring difficult? And, what all did you have to take apart to get to it?

Sweet Mercy
02-02-2010, 01:11 PM
Awesome! Was the wiring difficult? And, what all did you have to take apart to get to it?

It took him a couple hours once he got going. He removed the instrument panel, gauge cluster and the panel beneath/around the steering column. Once the pins came in, he "borrowed" some wire from a donor harness they had laying around and snapped everything into place, made sure it worked, then put everything back together. He didn't act like it was difficult to wire but hey, he does this kind of thing for a living also. I may have been ready to pull my hair out, IDK.

tonyspin
02-02-2010, 01:18 PM
Congratulations, glad to hear a success story!!

nydegger
02-02-2010, 02:27 PM
Congrats on getting this working....
I have 8 wires coming out of the switch and 8 wires going into the accy meter, do you think mine is already wired and I need the new accy meter? If not where is this JL1 connector and combo meter.
07 DC SR5, bench seats, tow package

PoPo
02-02-2010, 03:00 PM
Congrats on getting this working....
I have 8 wires coming out of the switch and 8 wires going into the accy meter, do you think mine is already wired and I need the new accy meter? If not where is this JL1 connector and combo meter.
07 DC SR5, bench seats, tow package

Looks like this should work for you since you have an SR5, although I haven't seen many with Bench seats (like mine) work yet. Check your VIN on that link posted a few posts back... I think it's Toyodiy.com --- also, Mustang posted a link to wiring schematics a few posts (maybe a page or 2) back as well, check that to find where JL1 is.

Sweet Mercy
02-02-2010, 03:21 PM
Congrats on getting this working....
I have 8 wires coming out of the switch and 8 wires going into the accy meter, do you think mine is already wired and I need the new accy meter? If not where is this JL1 connector and combo meter.
07 DC SR5, bench seats, tow package


I don't think the 8 wires at the switch and 8 at the accy meter have any direct correlation. If I remember correctly I also had 8 wires at the accy meter but I'm not sure now cos it's been too long. You may have all you need, I just don't know.

The combo meter is the gauge cluster. I've attached JL1 pdf, just look for it on the left hand side of the document. I guess it would be the same for all trucks......

If it were me, I'd check to make sure I had all 4 wires going to JL1 and then to the combo meter. If not those will have to be ran before anything will work.

I've also attached the combometer pdf. When you open it, you'll see the combo meter and to the right you'll see the 4 wires that go to JL1 with the drive monitor switch right below that.

mustang67408
02-02-2010, 03:47 PM
If I remember There needs to be 12 wires at the accessory meter too. You'll have to add 4 more there too

PowerHogger
02-02-2010, 06:21 PM
Just read through 12 pages..... My head is about to implode. I'm so confused....... Did Sweet Mercy get his working? WHAT he has opitrion gauges??

May I suggest that if there is not a goooood solution to this, we should ask our toyota techs when and if we choose to have our truck checked for the recall. One of the dealers is bound to know something. Worth the shot guys!

PoPo
02-02-2010, 08:27 PM
Just read through 12 pages..... My head is about to implode. I'm so confused....... Did Sweet Mercy get his working? WHAT he has opitrion gauges?? Sweet Mercy DID get this to work, but apparently had a Service Tech do the wiring. He also added the Optitron gauges on his own (and posted a thread on how to do it). The rest of us are using the upper dash/clock readout.


May I suggest that if there is not a goooood solution to this, we should ask our toyota techs when and if we choose to have our truck checked for the recall. One of the dealers is bound to know something. Worth the shot guys!I called three different dealerships in my area, and none of the Parts or Service guys had any clue how to do it. Luckily, we have Mustang here, who is a Toyota shop foreman, and he's been able to help us out. That's a good suggestion, and you should give your place a call... just be prepared for them to tell you they don't have a clue.

SE2000
02-02-2010, 09:24 PM
Trick may be go into employee parking area and pick out the 2nd gen tundra and then ask if any tech own them. You know, motivated tech will usually work harder on this

nydegger
02-03-2010, 12:43 PM
If I remember There needs to be 12 wires at the accessory meter too. You'll have to add 4 more there too

OK, I have looked back at the docs and I understand the connections from the Driver Monitor Switch thru connector JL1 to the Combo Meter. I will take a look at mine and see if I have all 4 connections, if not I will try to add them.
What I do not understand is all the connections from the Combo Meter to the Accy meter, I looked at the PDF supplied, but it is not as clear as the other docs. All I see is TX- from the accy meter to TX+ on the combo meter. Is there any more information available.
I currently have 8 wires going to the accy meter, just wondering if this is all of them or not.

Thanks

mustang67408
02-03-2010, 01:11 PM
OK, I have looked back at the docs and I understand the connections from the Driver Monitor Switch thru connector JL1 to the Combo Meter. I will take a look at mine and see if I have all 4 connections, if not I will try to add them.
What I do not understand is all the connections from the Combo Meter to the Accy meter, I looked at the PDF supplied, but it is not as clear as the other docs. All I see is TX- from the accy meter to TX+ on the combo meter. Is there any more information available.
I currently have 8 wires going to the accy meter, just wondering if this is all of them or not.

Thanks
I dont remember about the other 4 wires to the acc meter.
I would change the switch and accessory meter and add the 4 wires to JL1 and see if it works.
, I think because the truck I did was a TUNDRA GRADE, we had to add wires to the acc meter to, because they were not there, so 8 is all it may need. Not 100% sure

SE2000
02-03-2010, 02:07 PM
I was thinking about making a switch that we could use to test with. Sort of make sure it works for you.
So for those that already replaced their switches, are you willing to pass them on to help others? I figured I take a few that have 1 button working and make one complete switch. Then we could pass it onto the next guy. So it would cost the price of shipping for you to try.

mustang67408
02-03-2010, 02:53 PM
Well I have been messaged by a TS member who owns a 2010 Tundra Grade
He replaced the switches with the 0C020's and they work, so maybe Toyota added the wiring back in 2010.
I know the 07/08Tundra Grades are missing wires as some of you have found out.
So you 2010 guys may be lucky enough for this to work

Gixxer1k
02-03-2010, 02:58 PM
What is the current consensus on the best place to order the switches?

V Baker
02-03-2010, 03:24 PM
Mustang67408, I sent you the PM. The switch I ordered from Conicelli,#84977-0c020 was listed as(switch,Tundra,drive monitor control,W/O park assist,w/power seat package 2007-2008.I dont have power seats.Not sure what that means.The switch was plug and play for me.Took perhaps 3 minutes to pull the blank switch,top and bottom,and pry it out.I assume from your above post,the VIN I sent you shows my truck is a Grade?

nydegger
02-03-2010, 03:43 PM
I dont remember about the other 4 wires to the acc meter.
I would change the switch and accessory meter and add the 4 wires to JL1 and see if it works.
, I think because the truck I did was a TUNDRA GRADE, we had to add wires to the acc meter to, because they were not there, so 8 is all it may need. Not 100% sure

I just checked my JL1 Connector and it appears I am missing 2 wires going to the combo meter (Reset and Info), atleast they are not coming back out of JL1 on pins 17 and 19. The only one I had was pin 20 which is the Setup US/M.
I ran out of time and was not able to find the J28 on the combo meter, it must be way up in the dash. Any idea exactly where it is located?
I will see if my local dealer can order the pins that Sweet Mercy identified and try getting the wires ran first before ordering a new accy meter. I have already replaced the switch.

MacCTD
02-03-2010, 04:46 PM
Well I have been messaged by a TS member who owns a 2010 Tundra Grade
He replaced the switches with the 0C020's and they work, so maybe Toyota added the wiring back in 2010.
I know the 07/08Tundra Grades are missing wires as some of you have found out.
So you 2010 guys may be lucky enough for this to work


The 0C020 did not work on my '10 grade CM, it is bench seat. I can pm my VIN if it will help.

dariusld
02-03-2010, 05:53 PM
This is a dumb question, will it matter what switch you get, if it works. In other words, if it works, will any switch work? And if doesn't, none of them will? Are they all the same switch? Part # just to differentiate years? They all do the same thing.

dbytes
02-03-2010, 06:54 PM
Well I have been messaged by a TS member who owns a 2010 Tundra Grade
He replaced the switches with the 0C020's and they work, so maybe Toyota added the wiring back in 2010.
I know the 07/08Tundra Grades are missing wires as some of you have found out.
So you 2010 guys may be lucky enough for this to work


That's the first Tundra Grade that I heard works. Mine didn't with the 0c020 switches. I sold my switches, but I will check my wiring this weekend to see if the physical connections are there.

07Tundra350
02-03-2010, 08:40 PM
How hard is it to check JL1 connector?? Is it a pretty involved process?? What parts of the dash need to be removed to get to JL1?

PoPo
02-03-2010, 09:23 PM
Hey Mustang, did you do a VIN check on that guy's Grade Tundra that worked with the 0C020 switch? I'm curious to see what would show up, and why his 2010 would work. I'm planning on ordering the 0C020 switch tomorrow, so I'll be able to try that next week. If it doesn't work out for me, I'll post it back up here for sale... and hopefully someone with an SR5 or RockWarrior package will buy it from me.

wassup8687
02-04-2010, 07:20 AM
Hey Mustang, did you do a VIN check on that guy's Grade Tundra that worked with the 0C020 switch? I'm curious to see what would show up, and why his 2010 would work. I'm planning on ordering the 0C020 switch tomorrow, so I'll be able to try that next week. If it doesn't work out for me, I'll post it back up here for sale... and hopefully someone with an SR5 or RockWarrior package will buy it from me.

I'm also interested in this and would jump on it if it would work on my 2010.

mustang67408
02-04-2010, 07:54 AM
Hey Mustang, did you do a VIN check on that guy's Grade Tundra that worked with the 0C020 switch? I'm curious to see what would show up, and why his 2010 would work. I'm planning on ordering the 0C020 switch tomorrow, so I'll be able to try that next week. If it doesn't work out for me, I'll post it back up here for sale... and hopefully someone with an SR5 or RockWarrior package will buy it from me.
Yes, VBAKER above sent me his VIN. It showed as a Tundra Grade.
So the best thing for everyone to do it check to see if the wires are there.

V Baker
02-04-2010, 08:11 AM
I was under the impression that my truck was a (Tundra Grade),but after finding a Toyota VIN decoder on line.The first four letters of my VIN are 5TFU,the (U) indicates my truck is actually a DC SR5 LWB 4x4.So perhaps that explains why the 84977-0c020 buttons work on my truck.No place on this 2010 Tundra does it indicate that's a (SR5).

mustang67408
02-04-2010, 08:34 AM
I was under the impression that my truck was a (Tundra Grade),but after finding a Toyota VIN decoder on line.The first four letters of my VIN are 5TFU,the (U) indicates my truck is actually a DC SR5 SWB 4x4.So perhaps that explains why the 84977-0c020 buttons work on my truck.No place on this 2010 Tundra does it indicate that's a (SR5).
I have checked it in 2 different places.
1 says its a GRADE
1 says Nothing, no grade or SR5

This is so confusing.......................:confused::confuse d:

V Baker
02-04-2010, 08:49 AM
Here is a link ,you may have to copy and paste it.It's for 2010. Hope it works. http://priuschat.com/forums/attachments/gen-iii-2010-prius-main-forum/20191d1259776945-decoding-vin-vin-decoder.pdf

M.I.A. Cycles
02-04-2010, 11:19 AM
I was under the impression that my truck was a (Tundra Grade),but after finding a Toyota VIN decoder on line.The first four letters of my VIN are 5TFU,the (U) indicates my truck is actually a DC SR5 SWB 4x4.So perhaps that explains why the 84977-0c020 buttons work on my truck.No place on this 2010 Tundra does it indicate that's a (SR5).
So what you are saying is that your truck has 5FTU in the serial number and it worked?? I also have those numbers, does anyone else that it worked for have those letters ???

zak21
02-04-2010, 11:44 AM
Here is a link ,you may have to copy and paste it.It's for 2010. Hope it works. http://priuschat.com/forums/attachments/gen-iii-2010-prius-main-forum/20191d1259776945-decoding-vin-vin-decoder.pdf


Great info, this appears to be a genuine Toyota document so I assume it has some accuracy.

FYI I also found the 2008MY version of this document here http://www.etimago.com/yaris/TSB/TS-TR-0061-W%20%282008%20VIN%20Decoding%29.pdf

V Baker
02-04-2010, 11:51 AM
These are the first four numbers of my VIN yes.This is for a 2010.By adding the drive monitor controll switches #84977-0C020,it works fo" me ".Cant say it makes any diffrence,but these are the options I have.RE,CK,EV,LF,BN,RL,ST,TM,TO,2Q.

SE2000
02-04-2010, 01:57 PM
Great info, this appears to be a genuine Toyota document so I assume it has some accuracy.

FYI I also found the 2008MY version of this document here http://www.etimago.com/yaris/TSB/TS-TR-0061-W%20%282008%20VIN%20Decoding%29.pdf


I've got grade but that document says SR5, high, medium. Confusing

mustang67408
02-04-2010, 02:55 PM
I've got grade but that document says SR5, high, medium. Confusing
Yup, thats my confusion too. Those charts do not matcg most vehicles. :confused::confused::confused::confused::confused: :confused:

nydegger
02-04-2010, 03:04 PM
Where is J28 on the combo meter? I need to see if I can run the additional wires from JL1.

DC-MOTO
02-04-2010, 03:16 PM
Hope you get this to work...would love to install this on my Tundra

nydegger
02-04-2010, 05:29 PM
Where is J28 on the combo meter? I need to see if I can run the additional wires from JL1.
Found this PDF o the internet, is this the correct location for J28 to the combo meter.

M.I.A. Cycles
02-04-2010, 06:43 PM
These are the first four numbers of my VIN yes.This is for a 2010.By adding the drive monitor controll switches #84977-0C020,it works fo" me ".Cant say it makes any diffrence,but these are the options I have.RE,CK,EV,LF,BN,RL,ST,TM,TO,2Q.

What are the RE, LF,TM, and 2q options ?? I have the others and some you don't have.
John

V Baker
02-05-2010, 06:13 AM
RE-fedral emissions? LF-fog lights TM-tow mirrors 2Q-winter floor mats

OBiE TuNDRa
02-05-2010, 08:09 AM
I would install the buttons in the Tundra and then take it to the dealership and let them know your info buttons stopped working, that they need to fix it under warranty!

PoPo
02-05-2010, 08:43 AM
I would install the buttons in the Tundra and then take it to the dealership and let them know your info buttons stopped working, that they need to fix it under warranty!
LOL - That'd be funny if it worked!

mustang67408
02-05-2010, 08:48 AM
LOL - That'd be funny if it worked!
Not a chance here :devil::D

SE2000
02-05-2010, 08:57 AM
I would install the buttons in the Tundra and then take it to the dealership and let them know your info buttons stopped working, that they need to fix it under warranty!

I'd like to see the look on your face when they figure out it wasn't suppose to work and hand you an enormus bill and a copy of the form you signed saying you'd pay for non warrenty work.

M.I.A. Cycles
02-05-2010, 09:07 AM
RE-fedral emissions? LF-fog lights TM-tow mirrors 2Q-winter floor mats
On mine FE is federal emmissions, as far as the fog lights and tow mirrors go, I don't think they would make a difference as to the wiring etc. in the area that we are worried about. Most posts state that the wiring is there if you want to add the tow mirrors and fog lights.
John

OBiE TuNDRa
02-05-2010, 09:11 AM
I'd like to see the look on your face when they figure out it wasn't suppose to work and hand you an enormus bill and a copy of the form you signed saying you'd pay for non warrenty work.

I would my Open Mouth and Insert Foot!

mustang67408
02-05-2010, 09:20 AM
I'd like to see the look on your face when they figure out it wasn't suppose to work and hand you an enormus bill and a copy of the form you signed saying you'd pay for non warrenty work.

LOL - That'd be funny if it worked! :D:eek::D

saki302
02-06-2010, 08:45 AM
The next one that's fixed needs to have photos taken and a sticky tutorial made up :D

I refer to the re-qiring of course. A monkey could figure out how to activate a 2010 RW :D


-Dave

SE2000
02-06-2010, 09:29 AM
The next one that's fixed needs to have photos taken and a sticky tutorial made up :D

I refer to the re-qiring of course. A monkey could figure out how to activate a 2010 RW :D


-Dave

That's not fair. I'm glad to hear that it works for all that it does. It may not though, so it is still up in the air.
And unless you have been crawling around inside your dash tracing wires and making it work, you cannot complain about others.
I do agree once this is worked out a sticky tutorial would be great.

SE2000
02-09-2010, 05:36 PM
Anybody actively pursuing this?

captgnarley
02-09-2010, 07:09 PM
I haven't put in the combo meter yet but I should have time this week. I've got my fingers crossed with 8 wires in the switch plug. Not looking forward to dismantling my dash.

dariusld
02-09-2010, 07:29 PM
It took me literaly 30 seconds to get my switch out:confused:

SE2000
02-09-2010, 07:50 PM
I think he meant for the meter.

captgnarley
02-09-2010, 09:09 PM
Sorry, I meant taking it apart to get the meter in. I already have the switch installed and it did only take about 30 seconds.

PoPo
02-09-2010, 10:13 PM
And as for me... I'm waiting til after the 18th (when I get paid again, as I've used up all my allowance on building materials!) and then I'll order the 0C020, and see if that one works for me, since the 0C100 did not. Someone on here theorized that the newer 2010's may all be pre-wired to work... we'll see.

CaptGnarley - I'm anxious to hear if adding the new combo-meter works for you. Cause, if the 0C020 doesn't work for me (and the combo-meter doesn't work for u), I'm probably gonna abandon this & just pick up an ODB2 scanner and call it quits.

At least some good came of the thread though... some of the TS guys have made it work, so it's not a total loss

Barney_Fife
02-09-2010, 10:26 PM
u know whats funny? i have those buttons and all that crap and rarely ever use them. y wife uses it to see how far to empty but i tell her it means nothing in my truck...since it says 0 miles to empty when theres 5 or 6 gallons left. i know i can go an easy 60-80 miles after the stupid light comes on ...if i remembr correctly it comes on with around 20 or 25 miles left to empty but i havent looked in forever.

PoPo
02-09-2010, 10:32 PM
Yeah, I liked it for the MPG readout.... got used to having it in my '07, now I still have no idea what kind of gas mileage I'm getting with this new hog. I'm too lazy (or preoccupied) to do it manually. Plus, I don't like having empty/blank buttons on the dash.

Barney_Fife
02-09-2010, 10:37 PM
On mine FE is federal emmissions, as far as the fog lights and tow mirrors go, I don't think they would make a difference as to the wiring etc. in the area that we are worried about. Most posts state that the wiring is there if you want to add the tow mirrors and fog lights.
John
most of the trucks are wired for tow..but not the ones w/o heated mirrors. also probally half of the trucks are wired for fogs...i think they should just come stock with fogs...the black holes look stupid.

nydegger
02-10-2010, 04:35 AM
I haven't put in the combo meter yet but I should have time this week. I've got my fingers crossed with 8 wires in the switch plug. Not looking forward to dismantling my dash.
Have you verified the "Info Wire" and "Reset Wire" do infact pass-thru connector JL1 on up to J28 on the Combo Meter. On Mine these wires go from the buttons/switch to JL1 but do not come back out of JL1. It is an easy check. Obviously if the wires do not go from JL1 to J28 it will not work because the switch is not connected in the circuit.
I Plan to have the dealership add these wires to mine next week.

M.I.A. Cycles
02-10-2010, 06:49 AM
Anybody actively pursuing this?
I am going to order the switch this week. When I get it, I will let you know. Then you can stop down and try it.

MacCTD
02-10-2010, 09:29 AM
And as for me... I'm waiting til after the 18th (when I get paid again, as I've used up all my allowance on building materials!) and then I'll order the 0C020, and see if that one works for me, since the 0C100 did not. Someone on here theorized that the newer 2010's may all be pre-wired to work... we'll see.

CaptGnarley - I'm anxious to hear if adding the new combo-meter works for you. Cause, if the 0C020 doesn't work for me (and the combo-meter doesn't work for u), I'm probably gonna abandon this & just pick up an ODB2 scanner and call it quits.

At least some good came of the thread though... some of the TS guys have made it work, so it's not a total loss


I doubt it will work, we have almost the same truck and it did not work in my truck.

PoPo
02-10-2010, 09:55 AM
I doubt it will work, we have almost the same truck and it did not work in my truck.
Yeah, I doubt it too... but I'll give it a shot just to be sure. If it doesn't, I'll just put it up for sale here... at least we know that it WILL work for certain people, and hopefully someone will buy it from me.

07Tundra350
02-10-2010, 10:22 AM
Have you verified the "Info Wire" and "Reset Wire" do infact pass-thru connector JL1 on up to J28 on the Combo Meter. On Mine these wires go from the buttons/switch to JL1 but do not come back out of JL1. It is an easy check. Obviously if the wires do not go from JL1 to J28 it will not work because the switch is not connected in the circuit.
I Plan to have the dealership add these wires to mine next week.

Where is JL1 physically located....behind what dash panel? I see it is somewhere on the left side of the steering wheel. I want to check to see if I have wires coming out of this connector first before I start buying any parts. Anybody have pics??

PowerHogger
02-12-2010, 04:42 PM
Hey guys I don't want this thread to die.... I found some diagrams that I think are related. If anyone could make sense of these it would be great.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131437387.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131444445.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131444446.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131444447.gif

dariusld
02-12-2010, 05:21 PM
I don't know if someone said this already. If the switch didn't work for me, I would of let it go at that. All that other work would of been to much effort for to little pay out. I would of choose some of the other options out there.

SE2000
02-12-2010, 07:46 PM
Hey guys I don't want this thread to die.... I found some diagrams that I think are related. If anyone could make sense of these it would be great.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131437387.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131444445.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131444446.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/131444447.gif
good work. other diagrams have posted most of what is in here but the more the better.
Could you provide link or upload file? I want a copy.


This mod may not make a lot of economic sense. But that is not the point. This is real modding, so we want to conquer it.

Daggerdoggie
02-13-2010, 01:54 PM
FedEx man came and 5 minutes later this is done on my 2010 RW. Took me longer to get my coat on than to do the mod.

I pried the blank out with two, small, flat-bladed screwdrivers, pulled off the wiring connector, plugged it into the new switch, checked that it worked and pushed the new switch into the dash. You can tell from the pictures, it took about a minute.

http://nexterra.org/gallery/d/6579-1/New+Truck+021.jpg

http://nexterra.org/gallery/d/6582-1/New+Truck+022.jpg

http://nexterra.org/gallery/d/6585-2/New+Truck+023.jpg

http://nexterra.org/gallery/d/6588-1/New+Truck+024.jpg

PoPo
02-13-2010, 03:06 PM
^^^ Awesome! Well, still looks like the RockWarrior's are having NO problems with this. Birty Dastards!

PowerHogger
02-13-2010, 08:42 PM
Here you go!

wassup8687
02-15-2010, 06:24 PM
I am going to order the switch this week. When I get it, I will let you know. Then you can stop down and try it.

M.I.A., Did you get your switch yet and did it work?

M.I.A. Cycles
02-15-2010, 08:17 PM
M.I.A., Did you get your switch yet and did it work?

Not yet still waiting!!

nydegger
02-17-2010, 04:06 PM
I purchased the Drive Monitor Switch a while back and it did not work on my 2007 SR5, after doing a little research from this forum I was able to determine I had the 4 wires going from the switch to "JL1" but did not have the "INFO" wire, pin 17 from JL1 going to pin 28 on J28 and also did not have the "Select/Reset" wire going from pin 19 on JL1 to pin 30 on J28.
I finally got brave enough to tear into the gauge cluster and see where the J28 connector is. After doing this I decided to run a quick jumper wire from J28 pin 28 to the "Drive Monitor Switch" pin 2 just to see if my current accessory meter would change and display the MPG. Well I was surprised to see that it did in fact change from "Outside Temp" to "0.0 AVG MPG" after pressing the "INFO" button.I left the silver cover off and plan on getting the pins and running the wire tomorrow. Hopefully this will make everything work, I am still unsure why the display showed 0.0 AVG MPG, I would have thought it would showed the correct AVG MPG, I may still be missing something after getting the wires ran. I will see tomorrow hopefully.

PoPo
02-17-2010, 04:21 PM
Nice work NY... maybe it's at 0.0 AVG MPG because it was never calculating before (since it was never connected). I'm hoping this works out for ya. Any chance you can take some pics of your work for the rest of us?

nydegger
02-17-2010, 04:42 PM
I will try to get a pic of JL1 tomorrow before I put the silver thing back on.
I used this post from "ChitownTundra" for help of removing the cover and seeing the J28 connector on the back of the Combo Meter or Gauge Cluster.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/179536-tpms-light-modification-the-right-way/

nydegger
02-17-2010, 04:50 PM
I will try to get a pic of JL1 tomorrow before I put the silver thing back on.
I used this post from "ChitownTundra" for help of removing the cover and seeing the J28 connector on the back of the Combo Meter or Gauge Cluster.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/179536-tpms-light-modification-the-right-way/
Here is a pic I got from "ChitownTundra" showing the J28 Connector on the back of the gauge cluster, I added the PIN information.

PowerHogger
02-17-2010, 06:54 PM
Please take pics and make a DIY guide!

saki302
02-18-2010, 01:35 AM
You guys rock- I'm going to pull my cluster when I get a chance and see if the wires are there on my J28 connector.

-Dave

nydegger
02-19-2010, 03:45 PM
Finally got it working after getting the pins from a scrap connector the Service guy gave me and making the missing connections from JL1 connector to J28 on the Gauge Cluster. Had the hardest time finding the pins for the J28 connector, made 2 trips to the service dept. He eventually found them from another accessory upgrade kit. The part number of the kit you can get from the pins from is Toyota Part # 00016-01208-02 Description: ADAPT,HARN,CRUISE,SWITCH,INT. The connector is manufactured by Tyco Electronics. I e-mailed them a pic trying to identify the connector part number and pin part number. They sent me PDF drawing of the connector and pins as well as the part numbers for each. These are the TYCO part numbers, connector is p/n 1318389-1 and contacts are p/n 1123343-1 (tin) or 1123343-2 (gold).
As for the pins for JL1 he gave me a scrap connector off of something to rob them from. I am sure if some-one e-mailed TYCO with a picture of the JL1 connector they could identify it and supply part numbers for the pins for this connector also. Remove the cover below the steering column and JL1 is attached to the left side of the steering wheel brace. It is a white 22 pin double row connector. I used an OHM meter to identify the 1 button that worked to make sure I had the right connector and pin.
Once you have the pins and wire it is an easy mod.

PowerHogger
02-19-2010, 04:32 PM
WOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!! Awesome! COULD YOU TAKE PICS!
Could you clarify what a connector and pins are

evoluzione1
02-19-2010, 04:47 PM
Finaly someone may have the anwser. Can't wait until I can full understand where everything is and what pins I need to connect to do mine or check to see if mine is already ready. I have a 2010 2wd DC base model I believe.

nydegger
02-19-2010, 04:57 PM
Did not have time to take pics of JL1, besides I could not get it out from under the dash far enough to get a picture of it. Attached you will find a picture of the missing wires from JL1 to the combo meter (Gauge Cluster). I will also attach a PDF with the location of JL1. Look on the left side of the PDF to find JL1.

WOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!! Awesome! COULD YOU TAKE PICS!
Could you clarify what a connector and pins are

bryant03
02-19-2010, 10:04 PM
this is just me thinking out loud, but couldnt you just run a wire and use something like a wire tap to connect the two.

nydegger
02-20-2010, 07:58 AM
There is nothing to tap into on the combo meter except for using the correct pins in J28. I suppose you could splice into the wire on the side of JL1 that has the wire coming from the Drive Monitor Switch, but it would be just as easy to get the correct pin for that connector also.


this is just me thinking out loud, but couldnt you just run a wire and use something like a wire tap to connect the two.

SE2000
02-20-2010, 09:22 AM
Best to do it right. You don't want to not be able to unplug a connector.

nydegger
02-20-2010, 09:53 AM
You can buy the PINS for J28 here, keep in mind you will need a crimp tool to attach it to the wire.
AMP / TYCO 1123343-1 is in stock! | Buy 11233431 | 1123343 1 | Onlinecomponents.com (http://www.onlinecomponents.com/buy/AMP-TYCO/1123343-1)

Or it may be easier to buy a kit from Sparks that has 2 of the correct pins with the wire already attached. The rest of the stuff can be trashed, I think it was several wire ties and a foam backing.
Cruise ECM Harness at Sparks Toyota Scion - Toyota Racing Development Parts (http://www.trdsparks.com/part_detailfromlist.php?part_num=00016-01208-02) - This is the kit the service guy got the pins from for me to use.

I am working on finding the part number for the pins that are used on JL1, I have e-mailed TYCO/AMP and am waiting for a response.

SE2000
02-20-2010, 10:02 AM
How many people want in on the pins? If a few, I will try to source them locally and put wire on them if need be and mail them out. I have a few crimper tools, hopefully one will work.

asianflava
02-20-2010, 01:23 PM
I haven't physically checked them yet, but I bought both the male and female pins at a local hobby shop. I'm pretty sure they are the same pins used in servo plugs. You can get the plugs unassembled, you just need the pins so you throw away the plug part. I still need to check to see if the pins are the same but it's too cold to tear into something right now.

PowerHogger
02-20-2010, 01:31 PM
I haven't physically checked them yet, but I bought both the male and female pins at a local hobby shop. I'm pretty sure they are the same pins used in servo plugs. You can get the plugs unassembled, you just need the pins so you throw away the plug part. I still need to check to see if the pins are the same but it's too cold to tear into something right now.
Good work bro keep us updated

evoluzione1
02-20-2010, 08:03 PM
If anyone is interested in selling the info buttons that didn't work let me know.

nydegger
02-21-2010, 08:48 AM
I have 12 pins for JL1 left from the connector I robbed mine from. These do not work on J28, believe me, i tried....You would still have to get them from some place else.
I would be happy to send some to the first 6 (2 each) people who PM me.

nydegger
02-22-2010, 03:48 PM
Finally got some pics of JL1, they are not the best in the world but they will give you an idea.

evoluzione1
02-25-2010, 05:56 AM
So has anyone else completed the wire adding and got this working?

saki302
02-25-2010, 03:28 PM
I'll let you all know next week :)

-Dave

08 RCSB

M.I.A. Cycles
02-25-2010, 03:36 PM
M.I.A., Did you get your switch yet and did it work?
Got the switch and no luck even though someone else with the same VIN# prefex had it work. Guess I will add the wires and see what happens.

evoluzione1
02-25-2010, 06:00 PM
I was thinking those the mod worked for and those it did not. Does the rock crawler truck have the trip reset push button in the speedometer? The reason I ask is some people doing the mod are looking for the trip meter? one of the reasons for the install to start? This may be one of the differeenced between ones that work and ones that don't. I don't know if all the trucks have the trip reset in the speedometer like mine.

PowerHogger
02-25-2010, 07:04 PM
Hey guys I found out you could order J28 pins directly from Tyco as "Samples" free of charge! Just ordered five just incase I mess up on three :) Tyco Electronics | Electronic Components, Connectors & Network Solutions (http://www.tycoelectronics.com/default.aspx) Thanks nydegger for the pins!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wassup8687
02-26-2010, 09:58 AM
Got the switch and no luck even though someone else with the same VIN# prefex had it work. Guess I will add the wires and see what happens.

Sorry to hear it didn't work.

Did you order 84977-0c020? Would you be interested in meeting up to see if it'll work in my truck?

M.I.A. Cycles
02-26-2010, 02:12 PM
Sorry to hear it didn't work.

Did you order 84977-0c020? Would you be interested in meeting up to see if it'll work in my truck?
Yes I got the 020. Where do you live??? I am in Glenmont, which is just south of Albany.

M.I.A. Cycles
02-26-2010, 02:14 PM
Does anybody have the actual part numbers for the pins and sockets from Tyco. We use some "Micro pins which may be the ones we need. We buy them 200 each at a time???

ahowudoin
02-27-2010, 07:30 AM
Another confirmed Rock Warrior worked.

SE2000
02-27-2010, 08:57 AM
Does anybody have the actual part numbers for the pins and sockets from Tyco. We use some "Micro pins which may be the ones we need. We buy them 200 each at a time???

Yeah, someone posted the numbers, I can get them for you. I got a pin and I don't think my crimpers are that small. Are yours? I could bring it down, when will you be around? Oh, do you have an inside place to work?

M.I.A. Cycles
02-27-2010, 09:17 AM
Yeah, someone posted the numbers, I can get them for you. I got a pin and I don't think my crimpers are that small. Are yours? I could bring it down, when will you be around? Oh, do you have an inside place to work?
My crimbers should work, we do mini and micro pins with it. I have an un heated pole barn that a truck would fit in, my bike shop is full !!. Call me at 518 469-8426.

PowerHogger
02-27-2010, 03:47 PM
Looking forward to your completed jobs guys!

evoluzione1
02-28-2010, 12:13 PM
I just installed the wires on my 2010 dc tundra and I now have the MPG's reading. I have not got the buttons yet because I wanted to make sure it worked and it does. I have a normal toggle switch hooked up to switch between the choices until I get the real buttons. Thanks for all the info on this thread.

evoluzione1
02-28-2010, 12:48 PM
What do all the other buttons do? I can get MPG, instant MPG and fuel range. Do the buttons change to any other functions?

PowerHogger
02-28-2010, 01:41 PM
I believe the other space is for radar or something. Please post completed pictures!!!!!!

06whitetsr5
03-01-2010, 05:03 PM
Other two buttons clear and change f to c and back as well as km to miles and back .
Run wires , installed 84977-0C020 switch (81.99 sparks price) came with harness (from e-bay) , 83290-0C100 accessory meter (111.82 sparks, because i plan to add sonar in the future ) , it is working .
Mine is a tundra grade 09 dc V6 , the wires from ig #23 green and ilumination #20 black died at jk2 (behind glove box) those two wires supply power to temp readout display(green) and dims display(black).Also the Tx wir from cluster had to added to jk1 to bring information to meter via CAHN .If you already have the temp readout those wires should be there , just replace accessory meter and switch then run the three wires that go from cluster to jl1 .
Thanks for paving the way .:tu:

PoPo
03-01-2010, 05:06 PM
^^^ Awesome work guys!!! I knew we could make this happen! I'll pick up the additional parts & wires as soon as I finish the job I'm working on at home, and I'll get this done to mine too. It's nice when the TS community can get together & do a real MOD and add functions... excellent!

saki302
03-01-2010, 09:15 PM
Three wires to JL1? I thought it was two ?!?!?!

-Dave

06whitetsr5
03-02-2010, 05:39 AM
instrument cluster pin #28 red wire to jl1 17 (info) ; instrument cluster #29 orange to jl1 20
(set ) ; instrument cluster #30 blue to jl1 19 (rest) .

nydegger
03-02-2010, 07:43 AM
This may be the difference for "TUNDRA" grade trucks. Mine is a 2007 "SR5" grade, DC, Bench Seats, Tow Package, 5.7 L and only had to add "2" wires and the new switch. My current accessory meter also worked.


instrument cluster pin #28 red wire to jl1 17 (info) ; instrument cluster #29 orange to jl1 20
(set ) ; instrument cluster #30 blue to jl1 19 (rest) .

mclerico
03-02-2010, 09:19 AM
Other two buttons clear and change f to c and back as well as km to miles and back .
Run wires , installed 84977-0C020 switch (81.99 sparks price) came with harness (from e-bay) , 83290-0C100 accessory meter (111.82 sparks, because i plan to add sonar in the future ) , it is working .
Mine is a tundra grade 09 dc V6 , the wires from ig #23 green and ilumination #20 black died at jk2 (behind glove box) those two wires supply power to temp readout display(green) and dims display(black).Also the Tx wir from cluster had to added to jk1 to bring information to meter via CAHN .If you already have the temp readout those wires should be there , just replace accessory meter and switch then run the three wires that go from cluster to jl1 .
Thanks for paving the way .:tu:

Hey folks,
I've been lurking for awhile, following this thread in particular. Thanks to all for the info. 06whitetsr5, I have a Tundra Grade as well. Mine has the BZ option, which removes many standard options, including the read-out. My acc. meter only had the "clock", which I assume is what you had. When you mention the wires for the temp. and dimming that die behind the glove box at junction jk2, do those wires run from the acc. meter to jk2? Where do they continue to from there?

BTW 06whitetsr5, thanks also for the info on the RKE info in a different thread. Talk about a cheap and easy mod.

I was hoping that mine would be more "pre-wired" than it is for this mod. I have an 08 DC 5.7 with Tow. It has been prewired for everything so far (Cruise, intermittant wipers, remote keyless entry and back-up cam) that I have retro-fitted.

Thanks again for all the info and work.
Mike

MacCTD
03-02-2010, 03:00 PM
Any update on sources for the pins?

nydegger
03-02-2010, 04:22 PM
The pins for J28 have been identified with a part number earlier in this thread.
I tried taking a picture of JL1 and sending to Tyco/Amp, but my picture was not clear enough for them to identify it. This is the response I got.
"I forwarded to engineer and he can't identify. He asked if this is a AMP/Tyco connector? Is there any stamping on the housing? You need to send better photos of mating face.:

So if anybody can take a high quality pic of JL1 I will send it back to Tyco.


Any update on sources for the pins?

06whitetsr5
03-02-2010, 09:11 PM
My pleasure Mike , yes mine is also the BZ package and the dealer really is clueless on adding options to this package . Back to the wiring , yes the green and black wires go from the accessory meter to jk2 and that is where they end , you will need to run the continuation of the wiring 1) green pin 3 on jk2 to junction box j73 pin # 16 behind cluster , and 2) black pin # 5 on jk2 to junction box 5b pin # 4 , also behind cluster .They both have to be accessed from below and they are a PIA , specially since they are covered in black tape .Another option would be to piggy feed the black wire from the adjustable brightness wire to the radio and the green from the acc feed to the radio (same results but I'm not crazy about piggy backing wires ).If you install the new accessory meter without running this wires all you'll get is the clock and even that will go away when you turn your lights on .
I see you installed the intermittent wipers , did you have to flash the system ? mine are not working all wiring is there but still works as the base switch .
RKE , compass/dimming mirror , cruise control all plug and play , rear view camera had to get the towing harness , working on GPS/radio OEM head unit .

mclerico
03-02-2010, 09:31 PM
My pleasure Mike , yes mine is also the BZ package and the dealer really is clueless on adding options to this package . Back to the wiring , yes the green and black wires go from the accessory meter to jk2 and that is where they end , you will need to run the continuation of the wiring 1) green pin 3 on jk2 to junction box j73 pin # 16 behind cluster , and 2) black pin # 5 on jk2 to junction box 5b pin # 4 , also behind cluster .They both have to be accessed from below and they are a PIA , specially since they are covered in black tape .Another option would be to piggy feed the black wire from the adjustable brightness wire to the radio and the green from the acc feed to the radio (same results but I'm not crazy about piggy backing wires ).If you install the new accessory meter without running this wires all you'll get is the clock and even that will go away when you turn your lights on .
I see you installed the intermittent wipers , did you have to flash the system ? mine are not working all wiring is there but still works as the base switch .
RKE , compass/dimming mirror , cruise control all plug and play , rear view camera had to get the towing harness , working on GPS/radio OEM head unit .

Thanks for the info. I will probably just wire-tap the appropriate wires. I'd rather not, but digging up the right pins is becoming more trouble than I thought. I'll just try to track down the right wires that feed the radio. As far as the wipers, mine was plug-n-play. I am suprised that yours don't work. It looked to me like the "intermittant" feature of the wipers was intergrated into the replacement stalk. I am pretty sure there was only 2 wires leaving the stalk harness. I will double check when I get a chance and PM you.

Thanks,
Mike

saki302
03-03-2010, 02:02 AM
Confirmed- I put in the two wires (mine already had pin 29 on J28), and it works!!!! Wooo hoooo!!!

On the JL1 connector- I had to unsnap the retaining band-thing in the middle of the connector to slide the pins in. I didn't need to do this with J28.

So- 2008 RCSB Sr5 5.7 is now confirmed- works w/ switch and two wires.

-Dave

PS- if you choose to tap, you can skip the JL1 wires, but you will still need two connectors for J28- there is nothing there but holes.

M.I.A. Cycles
03-03-2010, 02:29 PM
Just a few questions in an attempt to help clear things up in my mind. First all I see mentioned is the male type pins, do we need a matching female type socket for the other end of the wires? Secondly, what gauge and color wires do we need to be original? Third the Tyco part number for the pin is 1123343-1. Lastly I've seen some posts saying two and some saying three wires. Which wires are these? How do I tell if I need to change my meter?? Sorry but the numerous posts here have my head spinning, and I would like to finish this. Thanks in advance.

06whitetsr5
03-03-2010, 05:24 PM
Jhon , the difference between 2 and 3 wires is based on your tundra model sr5 should need only 2 and tundra grade should require 3 , see schematics by nydegger for wire color and location .Both ends are female and run from female connector on jl1 to female connector to instrument cluster .As far as the accessory meter , if you already get the temp readout adding the wires and switch should unlock the meter but do not quote me on that as there are several accessory meter available and only their internals are different , shinning light with a flashlight to the screen won't give you the answers .As far as the micro connectors I'll leave it to someone that actually purchased them as I used some from a harness that I had access to .Good luck .

PowerHogger
03-03-2010, 06:36 PM
Ok guys I will try and do a write up or something once I do this mod but without using the factory buttons. Insted I got some switches from radio shack for about 6 bucks. Anyways what does the SELECT/RESET button do?

saki302
03-04-2010, 03:52 AM
If you order the cruise harness(es) to disassemble for the pins (a bit pricey route), the J28 pins come with enough wire to reach the JL1 connector. The pins nydegger sent me had wires ont hem already, so I just soldered the wires together and shrink wrapped the connection.

You only need the pins mentioned earlier- the female connector has the pins already (J28 = cluster, JL1 = female which goes to the switch unit).

So far so good- it seems to mirror the scangauge's results relatively closely, and has less delay when watching the instant MPG. I no longer feel SR5-jigged :D


PS- one of the photos was incorrect regarding the JL1 pin placement (reversed)- refer to the service manual diagrams in this thread, there will be connector drawings showing the pin number and position relative to the connector- Use those instead.

-Dave

evoluzione1
03-04-2010, 05:10 AM
Ok guys I will try and do a write up or something once I do this mod but without using the factory buttons. Insted I got some switches from radio shack for about 6 bucks. Anyways what does the SELECT/RESET button do?
All the selct/info button does is reset the MPG. I don't think it does anything else.

PowerHogger
03-04-2010, 06:02 PM
Hey guys I finally got my samples from tyco and there the J28 pins. Nydegger I can't see the difference between the JL1 pins and J28. They sent me 20 pins so after I'm done with the mod I'll be happy to send out extras!
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000138.jpg

06whitetsr5
03-04-2010, 08:59 PM
the pins differ in that the guiding fin for the jl1 are on opposite side of the pins for the cluster , otherwise the same but will not slide in if used on wrong application .

wassup8687
03-05-2010, 09:31 PM
M.I.A. Cycles was kind enough to try his switch in my truck yesterday. Unfortunately it didn't work. Looks like I'll also have to try adding wires if I want the mpg displayed.

PowerHogger
03-05-2010, 10:58 PM
my six dollar mpg buttons
OK guys this mod does work and I'll try and do a quick write up for those still on the fence or confused.

This is my diagram for if you choose to do it with the factory switch which simply has 3 monetary switches inside. The white line is what you need from J28 instrument cluster to JL1. Then the red line goes from JL1 over to the factory switch. Done.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P10001565555555555555555.jpg


Heres my more cost effective method method.
Same here the white line is what you need (keep in mind that there are two wires needed, pin 28 and 30.) Red line is connected to two seperate monetary switches.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000157777777777.jpg

I chose to do the buttons this way because
1. CHEAP
2. I did not have all the wires going in to the accy meter (07 SR5 RCSB)
3. I like working on the truck

Note: The pins I recieved did not fit inside J28(instrument cluster). I spent about 45 minutes trying to push it inside but no go. They look like a perfect fit but just did not go in well. This was just from my experience and it may work for others. I will go over how I overcame this later.

So I started by taking out the blanks in the bottom right corner pictured here:
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000144.jpg
I bought small switches in anticipation that I could just mount them inside the the factory switch. But I found out the platic is molded with the switch and cant be removed. I just went ahead and used more blanks.

I justed used some files and made holes for the switches
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000140.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000145.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000142.jpg
BEFORE MOVING ON REMEMBER TO REMOVE + TERMINAL OFF THE BATTERY. You dont want any electrical problems.

Next remove the dash any way you like. Personally I start with pulling on the coin holder then go from there.
Once that is off remove the instrument cluster aswell. And cut the zip tie back there. It will make your life easier.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000149.jpg
Back of cluster (where J28 connects to).
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000148.jpg

I had a problem with the pins so I just simply took some 22 AWG wire, folded it over, then shoved it in the holes.
Note: I got confused looking at J28 diagram layout. I found out the holes needed are the ones left and right of the orange wire on the bottom row of pins.
From there I just simply snaked wire down to my switches. Be careful there are some really sharp metal pieces.
Next I the dash back in place, you don't have too do this but I didn't want a mess around.


Okay connecting to your switches is fairly simple. One wire from pin 28 to one side of the switch, same for pin 30 to the other switch. Then everything else goes to ground. See attached diagram.

Mount the switches and your good to go baby!
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000155.jpg

Heres a video. Its okay to be jealous http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/th_P1000154-1.jpg (http://s494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/?action=view&current=P1000154-1.flv)
BTW I still have plenty of J28 pins if you would like to try them. Just send me a pm with you address and I'll mail them to ya.

Overall a very very simple mod you have no reason for not doing this :cool:

Another note: Still no idea what RESET/SELECT does. When I press it nothing changes

PoPo
03-06-2010, 12:19 AM
^^^ Nice job PowerHogger --- I'd still prefer the stock switches myself (just for the stock look & to fill the blank buttons up on the dash), but for the price, I can't say anything negative about what you did. Thanks for the contribution. I'm still waiting for the extra cash to re-order the 0C020 switch and do the wiring, but hopefully soon...

Barney_Fife
03-06-2010, 12:29 AM
lots of ingenuity and brain power there. doesnt seem u are afraid of aftermarket switches...since none of them match hahaha and u have wires showing for the one stuck on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. if i were doing it this way id have done them matching colors and made sure to make them dead center but good idea and job

MacCTD
03-06-2010, 05:01 AM
Hey guys I finally got my samples from tyco and there the J28 pins. Nydegger I can't see the difference between the JL1 pins and J28. They sent me 20 pins so after I'm done with the mod I'll be happy to send out extras!
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000138.jpg


Nice offer PM sent.

PowerHogger
03-06-2010, 07:08 AM
Yep, stock switches look about 1000% better than mine but whatever. Im just glad I know I'm getting 10 MPG now :o I did a quick job and plan on cleaning up excess wires today!

Barney_Fife
03-06-2010, 10:30 AM
my six dollar mpg buttons
OK guys this mod does work and I'll try and do a quick write up for those still on the fence or confused.

This is my diagram for if you choose to do it with the factory switch which simply has 3 monetary switches inside. The white line is what you need from J28 instrument cluster to JL1. Then the red line goes from JL1 over to the factory switch. Done.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P10001565555555555555555.jpg


Heres my more cost effective method method.
Same here the white line is what you need (keep in mind that there are two wires needed, pin 28 and 30.) Red line is connected to two seperate monetary switches.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000157777777777.jpg

I chose to do the buttons this way because
1. CHEAP
2. I did not have all the wires going in to the accy meter (07 SR5 RCSB)
3. I like working on the truck

Note: The pins I recieved did not fit inside J28(instrument cluster). I spent about 45 minutes trying to push it inside but no go. They look like a perfect fit but just did not go in well. This was just from my experience and it may work for others. I will go over how I overcame this later.

So I started by taking out the blanks in the bottom right corner pictured here:
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000144.jpg
I bought small switches in anticipation that I could just mount them inside the the factory switch. But I found out the platic is molded with the switch and cant be removed. I just went ahead and used more blanks.

I justed used some files and made holes for the switches
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000140.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000145.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000142.jpg
BEFORE MOVING ON REMEMBER TO REMOVE + TERMINAL OFF THE BATTERY. You dont want any electrical problems.

Next remove the dash any way you like. Personally I start with pulling on the coin holder then go from there.
Once that is off remove the instrument cluster aswell. And cut the zip tie back there. It will make your life easier.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000149.jpg
Back of cluster (where J28 connects to).
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000148.jpg

I had a problem with the pins so I just simply took some 22 AWG wire, folded it over, then shoved it in the holes.
Note: I got confused looking at J28 diagram layout. I found out the holes needed are the ones left and right of the orange wire on the bottom row of pins.
From there I just simply snaked wire down to my switches. Be careful there are some really sharp metal pieces.
Next I the dash back in place, you don't have too do this but I didn't want a mess around.


Okay connecting to your switches is fairly simple. One wire from pin 28 to one side of the switch, same for pin 30 to the other switch. Then everything else goes to ground. See attached diagram.

Mount the switches and your good to go baby!
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/P1000155.jpg

Heres a video. Its okay to be jealous http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/th_P1000154-1.jpg (http://s494.photobucket.com/albums/rr306/MrCheeks550/Accy%20Meter/?action=view&current=P1000154-1.flv)
BTW I still have plenty of J28 pins if you would like to try them. Just send me a pm with you address and I'll mail them to ya.

Overall a very very simple mod you have no reason for not doing this :cool:

Another note: Still no idea what RESET/SELECT does. When I press it nothing changes

PS i havent used mine in forever but if im not mistaking the reset you either push or hold down while in the avg mpg screen and it resets it.......but again...its not that big of a deal to have fo rme so i rarely use it.

martym
03-06-2010, 02:53 PM
I have been following this mod from the begining. I got the "02" switch cluster but other than to change F to C nothing. I cannot THANK ALL that have contributed to this thread enough!! As I go over all the previous posts a lot of serious effort has gone into this.I got the free j28 pins from tyco (very easy to do) so this afternoon I was on a mission to install the missing wires. The truck is a 2010 dbl cab grade. So removing a good amount of the dash was alittle unnerving but through everyones info on how to do this it was ok.Bottom line I installed the 2 missing wires between the jl1 & j28 reassemled every thing and it works.
Awesome!!!:ts:

Tick
03-06-2010, 07:34 PM
Not bragging because I new here, BUT mine was plug and play. I have 9/09 2010 with bucket seats I thought was a Grade. I tested the 2 and 5 pin with a paper clip and it changed the display. Called Aaron at partznet ( very nice guy on the phone) and he sent me the switch, less then a minute to install, BOOM on came the lights. If more info is needed, let me know and I'll get what info you all need:D

Mick

M.I.A. Cycles
03-07-2010, 07:36 PM
I have been following this mod from the begining. I got the "02" switch cluster but other than to change F to C nothing. I cannot THANK ALL that have contributed to this thread enough!! As I go over all the previous posts a lot of serious effort has gone into this.I got the free j28 pins from tyco (very easy to do) so this afternoon I was on a mission to install the missing wires. The truck is a 2010 dbl cab grade. So removing a good amount of the dash was alittle unnerving but through everyones info on how to do this it was ok.Bottom line I installed the 2 missing wires between the jl1 & j28 reassemled every thing and it works.
Awesome!!!:ts:

So you got the pins for the plugs,. What did you use on the socket on the other end??? Usually one end is a plug and uses male pins the other is a socket and uses female pins.

martym
03-08-2010, 02:54 PM
I used a #18 solid wire and doubled the end over slid it in along side where the female pin enters the connector (jl1) it fit snug works fine maybe a little silicon to help hold it in place would of been nice too

dariusld
03-08-2010, 04:01 PM
Maybe someone has already said this, but this is such a long thread, might of missed it.
I pulled out the one button switch to replace it with the 3 button switch and noticed something. You can pull out the two blanks and replace them with switches. The module is wired, just has blanks instead of buttons. Too bad they don't sell those, it would be alot cheaper than the whole new switch.
I know this wasn't clear, I think some will understand what I'm trying to say:ts:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/1/3/0/2/9/img_1039_98130.jpg

PowerHogger
03-08-2010, 04:13 PM
Yeah I was thinking about that when I looked at it. Looked like everything was there but didn't want to break the blanks

VerticalToy
03-10-2010, 10:04 PM
I couldn't find anything on this subject on the Sequoia side, but does anyone know (Mustang) if this would work on an 08 Sequoia SR5 5.7? I have the 8wire sitting behind the blank switch.

mustang67408
03-11-2010, 07:18 AM
I couldn't find anything on this subject on the Sequoia side, but does anyone know (Mustang) if this would work on an 08 Sequoia SR5 5.7? I have the 8wire sitting behind the blank switch.
The 8 wires behind the switch do not matter. It's the wires in the next junction connector, you need those. In a SR5, it should work ( dont know have never tried it). Try to find the junction connector and see if the appropriate wires running to the combometer are there. If they are there, yes it shold work, if not, then you'll have to run the wires and then it should work.

M.I.A. Cycles
03-14-2010, 04:57 PM
This is for the guys that did the extra wires.
1. What is the part numbers for the pins that you used and fit without modifying the plugs?

2. Did you use the same pins on both ends of the wire?

3. What gauge wire did you use?

4. How long did it take you?

I realize that most of this is probably covered somewhere in the numerous post, I thought maybe we could get it all in one post.
Thanks in advance.

captgnarley
03-15-2010, 03:42 PM
Powerhogger, hooked me up with a couple pins. I took my dash apart and got my stock display to work. Took about an hour total. The pins work in the plug at the instrument cluster only. Way easier than I thought it would be. Thanks to all who posted the info for this mod.

M.I.A. Cycles
03-15-2010, 10:49 PM
Powerhogger, hooked me up with a couple pins. I took my dash apart and got my stock display to work. Took about an hour total. The pins work in the plug at the instrument cluster only. Way easier than I thought it would be. Thanks to all who posted the info for this mod.

What did you do at the other end?? Did you do two or three wires? What gauge wires did you use?

Bmf79
03-16-2010, 08:25 AM
Great work to all who have contributed to this thread! I just picked up my 2010 DC Rock Warrior on Friday and this will be one of my first mods. I just ordered the part from partznet.com and can't wait until it's here. Thanks again for all of the info.

gf2020
03-16-2010, 08:44 AM
I just picked up my 2010 DC Rock Warrior on Friday and this will be one of my first mods. I just ordered the part from partznet.com and can't wait until it's here.




I installed mine in my CrewMax Rock Warrior last week. It took about 13 seconds and worked fine.

Bmf79
03-16-2010, 08:49 AM
Nice. After reading this entire thread I do not really anticipate any issues with my RW. Kudos to all of those who stayed vigilant and eventually triumphed, truly awesome.

Dysan911
03-16-2010, 11:16 AM
Should anyone wanting info on this mod start at page 1 or is there a different page where the discussion of the actual how-to begins?

Thanks!

PoPo
03-16-2010, 11:55 AM
^^^ LOL - Sorry for such a long thread Dysan911... As soon as I order the part & do the mod myself, I'll "edit" my first post (#1) so that it's easier to see. We've got another baby coming any day, so I've been too busy getting ready for that to attend to my Mods.

Do you have an SR5 truck? If so, all you should need is the combo-switch, which is part #84977-0C020. You can either order it through Sparks or Partznet (guys are finding it cheaper on Partznet). Many SR5 trucks are direct plug-and-play with JUST the switch. That's where I'd recommend you start.

AND, it turns out that you don't have to pull the dash-piece off to pull out that switch (as others pointed out)... you can just pull out the blank buttons and pop the new ones in once you connect the wiring.

If you still can't see & change the MPG function... someone should be able to direct you to the Post# on this thread for the directions there-after. But, hopefully I'll have the #1 post updated by then.

Good luck!

SE2000
03-16-2010, 12:46 PM
What I didn't have: Only 2 going out to the combo meter. The master tech ordered the appropriate pins, Part# 90980-12372 and Part# 82998-24290 (2) each, ran the wire and it was done. Now, to be clear, my MPG data is in the gauge cluster because I have the optitron gauges. If I did not have the optitron gauges, I would have needed to wire from the combo meter to the accy meter to complete it. I do not have the info on that part. I can't believe, or I guess I can, Toyota left out two wires and the switch.


Can you verify the part numbers? I went to my dealer and those numbers came up as other parts

Bmf79
03-18-2010, 08:16 AM
Well I picked my switch assembly up from Fed Ex this morning and installed it into my 2010 DC RW in less than 30 seconds. I didn't even use a screwdriver to remove the blanks. Grabbed it with my fingers it pulled right out, plugged in and it works perfectly. Thanks to all again for the info.

PowerHogger
03-18-2010, 08:42 AM
What gauge wires did you use?
Any gauge of wires would work but I used 22 and 20 awg wire because they were small. I would say thats a good range of wire to work with.

viphax0r
03-18-2010, 08:55 AM
Just wanted to update, I took my dash apart, ran wires straight from the back of the instrument cluster pins 28 and 30, I was able to touch these to and metal grounded part and get the display to change. I have a 2007 DB 5.7 w tow package, comes up as SR5. I was missing the wires. I am going to install buttons to these two wires and bypass even fooling with the harnesses. Thanks for everyone's help!

Dysan911
03-19-2010, 01:57 PM
Just wanted to update, I took my dash apart, ran wires straight from the back of the instrument cluster pins 28 and 30, I was able to touch these to and metal grounded part and get the display to change. I have a 2007 DB 5.7 w tow package, comes up as SR5. I was missing the wires. I am going to install buttons to these two wires and bypass even fooling with the harnesses. Thanks for everyone's help!


So anyone missing the wiring. Essentially all your doing is running 2 wires from the back of the instrument cluster (Pin 28 and 30) over to the harness that plugs into the back of the little Info Button?

PowerHogger
03-19-2010, 03:24 PM
Essentially all your doing is running 2 wires from the back of the instrument cluster (Pin 28 and 30) over to the harness that plugs into the back of the little Info Button?Yep thats it.

Dabbs
03-19-2010, 04:14 PM
I have seen on other threads that this works.

bryant03
03-19-2010, 08:17 PM
thanks, for every one who did the research on this one. took about 30 min to complete and works perfect.

SLATE
03-20-2010, 12:16 AM
Any one mind doing a write up?
Im more of a visual person hehe
After such a long thread, i lost track lol

So pretty much wire pin 28 and 30 from the instrument cluster to the buttons?
And which goes to which??
Thanks

Dysan911
03-20-2010, 09:10 AM
Is there a quick way to test and see if you have the wiring already in place? Wasn't there a way you can pull the dummy switches out and short to pins on that harness? If the wiring was there it would trigger the Info on the display?

RIjon
03-20-2010, 05:56 PM
Just got done doing this on mine. Two (2) wires coming from J28 (pin 28 & 30)..... to two (2) momentary switches. The switches go to ground.

When I pick up another factory combo switch some day I will pin the wires to JL1 so it works stock. For now, it works perfect.

Considering I make switch panels for a living, I can do whatever I want. (look forward to 2 new panels this week)

THANK YOU dbytes for the pins, and all the other members for the leg work on this mod. ..... this made it clean and easy.

Jon

Dysan911
03-20-2010, 06:47 PM
Ahh. I really glad you mentioned that each wire has to be grounded each. I was thinking you had to short Pin 28 and 30 to each other. Aaggh!.



Well I checked and the little harness behind the dummy panel has only 6 wires so it looks like I will have to run wires from Pin 28 & 30 over to whatever you guys are calling that connector that would normally plug into the Switch that replaces the blanks.

Thanks!



Just got done doing this on mine. Two (2) wires coming from J28 (pin 28 & 30)..... to two (2) momentary switches. The switches go to ground.

When I pick up another factory combo switch some day I will pin the wires to JL1 so it works stock. For now, it works perfect.

Considering I make switch panels for a living, I can do whatever I want. (look forward to 2 new panels this week)

THANK YOU dbytes for the pins, and all the other members for the leg work on this mod. ..... this made it clean and easy.

Jon

Dabbs
03-21-2010, 01:11 AM
Odd,
Just installed mine in 30sec.
Part Number 84977-0C020 and all works fine.
Non-TRD Non-SR5 no power seats, no sonar or rear camera.

Pulled the fake buttons off with my finger and plug and play.
Thanks for those on this that suggested to not remove the dash and not use a screwdriver.
You can do this mod in under a min.

Dysan911
03-21-2010, 08:18 AM
Cool man!. Hey do you recall having all 8 wires on your little connector that was behind the fake buttons?


Odd,
Just installed mine in 30sec.
Part Number 84977-0C020 and all works fine.
Non-TRD Non-SR5 no power seats, no sonar or rear camera.

Pulled the fake buttons off with my finger and plug and play.
Thanks for those on this that suggested to not remove the dash and not use a screwdriver.
You can do this mod in under a min.

VerticalToy
03-22-2010, 10:46 AM
Well, I dont know if this helps any, but I ordered the 020 part and it was plug and play on my 08' toyota Sequoia SR5. Works fantastic, but its a little depressing seeing that i only get about 12 miles a gallon.... Damn 5.7's....

07Tundra350
03-22-2010, 07:57 PM
How hard is it to get to the JL1 connector under the steering wheel to see if we got the wires for the correct pin numbers. I doubt mine has it but it would nice to double check before I tear the dash apart to get to the instrument cluster.

Dysan911
03-22-2010, 08:40 PM
I know a lot of people have successfully done this mod and have moved on. I would really like to understand what some of these connectors are and really wish someone would do a true walk thru with pics.

Some of you are just saying "Yeah I ran Jl1, to my mutli dealio and connected pin 28 and it works now!" Ugh!. Sorry I don't mean to be slow but when it comes to stuff like this I'd like to make absolute sure I'm not connecting a wire into the wrong Pin location and short out the dash. lol

I removed the dummy buttons and there's a connector there. I believe it's an 8 wire but I only show 6 wires. What now?

Dysan911
03-22-2010, 09:01 PM
Okay I figured out J28 is the connector that plugs into the back of the Combo CLuster aka The main Gauges. What exactly is JL1?

SLATE
03-22-2010, 10:11 PM
I know a lot of people have successfully done this mod and have moved on. I would really like to understand what some of these connectors are and really wish someone would do a true walk thru with pics.

Some of you are just saying "Yeah I ran Jl1, to my mutli dealio and connected pin 28 and it works now!" Ugh!. Sorry I don't mean to be slow but when it comes to stuff like this I'd like to make absolute sure I'm not connecting a wire into the wrong Pin location and short out the dash. lol

I removed the dummy buttons and there's a connector there. I believe it's an 8 wire but I only show 6 wires. What now?

Im with u on this one lol
I bet its easy but some of us just need a little help:baby:

Dysan911
03-23-2010, 08:44 AM
Not bragging because I new here, BUT mine was plug and play. I have 9/09 2010 with bucket seats I thought was a Grade. I tested the 2 and 5 pin with a paper clip and it changed the display. Called Aaron at partznet ( very nice guy on the phone) and he sent me the switch, less then a minute to install, BOOM on came the lights. If more info is needed, let me know and I'll get what info you all need:D

Mick


The 2 and 5 pin from What? JL1? or the one behind the fake buttons (which I still do not know what that one is called)

nydegger
03-23-2010, 03:46 PM
Dysan911, Take a look at the following and see if this helps.
You can short together pins 2 and 5 on the back connector of the switch to see if this is going to work.
Or you can physically look at JL1 and see if you have the wires going out to J28. (look at JL1.pdf) for JL1 location.




The 2 and 5 pin from What? JL1? or the one behind the fake buttons (which I still do not know what that one is called)

Dysan911
03-23-2010, 03:56 PM
Thanks NYDegger. I used a paper clip and connected pin 2 and 5 together with just the Key turned to ACC and nothing changed on my display.

Are you saying I need to ground 2 or 5 individually and not to each other?

Also if I need to take the lower dash off to look at JL1. Any precautions? My 2010 has that Knee Air Bag right there.

Thanks!



Dysan911, Take a look at the following and see if this helps.
You can short to ground pins 2 and 5 individually on the back connector of the switch to see if this is going to work.
Or you can physically look at JL! and see if you have the wires going out to J28. (look at JL1.pdf) for JL1 location.

nydegger
03-23-2010, 04:10 PM
Connect Pin2(INFO) to Pin5(Ground) and see if the display changes.
Just to make sure you are doing it correctly connect Pin4(US/M) to Pin5(Ground) and this should toggle US/M on the display.
If when connecting pin2 to pin 5 nothing happens I would assume you do not have the 2 wires going to J28.

I have a 2007 DC and no knee airbag under the steering wheel. My cover under the steering wheel just pops off, then you have access to JL1.

I also added pics to my previous post showing JL1.



Thanks NYDegger. I used a paper clip and connected pin 2 and 5 together with just the Key turned to ACC and nothing changed on my display.

Are you saying I need to ground 2 or 5 individually and not to each other?

Also if I need to take the lower dash off to look at JL1. Any precautions? My 2010 has that Knee Air Bag right there.

Thanks!

Dysan911
03-23-2010, 06:44 PM
NYDegger,

Okay, on my 8pin connector that sits behind my dummy buttons there are only 6 wires. I am not sure which way 1 thru 8 runs. There's a Pink wire on the end is that Pin# 8 or #1

This also concerns me. Do I need to technically have all 8 wires on that 8pin connector in order to make this work or so some of those wires pertain to like the Sonar feature, etc?

nydegger
03-23-2010, 08:19 PM
I will pop my buttons back out tomorrow and verify, or you could look at the color codes in the JL1 to combo meter.pdf in my earlier post. The colors should be accurate.


NYDegger,

Okay, on my 8pin connector that sits behind my dummy buttons there are only 6 wires. I am not sure which way 1 thru 8 runs. There's a Pink wire on the end is that Pin# 8 or #1

This also concerns me. Do I need to technically have all 8 wires on that 8pin connector in order to make this work or so some of those wires pertain to like the Sonar feature, etc?

Dysan911
03-24-2010, 09:19 AM
NY,

Trent310 from the TundraTalk site posted a picture of that 8pin connector and I'm missing the 2 white wires or Pin # 5 & 6.

Can anyone tell me where those 2 wires go? I assume back down to JL1 but which pins on JL1?

Thanks!

nydegger
03-24-2010, 01:19 PM
From looking at the print pin5 goes to JL1 pin13 then to J78 Pin9 out of J78 Pin10 then ?
Pin5 is GROUND, what would happen if you shorted pin2 to another ground point (some metal point)
I have no idea where pin6 goes...From the color it looks to be ground also...

Dysan911
03-24-2010, 03:37 PM
NYD,

I'm so glad you can read those schematics. I can't make heads or tails of where anythings at on it. lol

I will ground Pin #2 and see what happens. I"m really hoping that the 2 white wires are for the Sonar feature and not needed.





From looking at the print pin5 goes to JL1 pin13 then to J78 Pin9 out of J78 Pin10 then ?
Pin5 is GROUND, what would happen if you shorted pin2 to another ground point (some metal point)
I have no idea where pin6 goes...From the color it looks to be ground also...

mclerico
03-24-2010, 03:52 PM
Another successful conversion! Mine was a little more difficult than most, because I started out with a Tundra Grade DC 5.7 with tow, that also had the BZ option, which removes many standard options. Therefor, I just had a clock for an acc. meter. Don't be fooled by having 8 wires at the switch, because I did too. I still had to add the 2 wires to the j28 connector at the gauge cluster. I also had to run an additional wire from jl1 to j28 for the US/Metric button, and a wire from j28 to the acc. meter so the meter could recieve info (Temp/MPG) from the combo meter. I also had to supply power to the info side of the acc. meter, and attempted to supply dimming illumination to the acc. meter. The illumination wire tap didn't work (from the radio), then I realized I was always annoyed that I couldn't read my clock during the day with the headlights on. I determined that the acc. meter recieves a 12v signal on the orange wire when the headlights are turned on, so I cut that wire, now my acc. meter is at full brightness all the time.

Thanks to everyone, but especially to Powerhogger (for pins), mustang67408 (advice) and 06whitesr5 (advice).

Thanks again,
Mike

Dysan911
03-24-2010, 04:38 PM
I stand corrected!> ugh!. If the pink wire is Pin #1 on the 8pin Connector. I am missing Pin 2 and 3. WTF! So I can't ground #2 at all!. It doesn't exist for me!

PowerHogger
03-24-2010, 05:16 PM
Dysan I'll try and help you out here... Do you have the upgraded button ready to go? If so since your having this much trouble you could bypass JL1 and just go directly from J28(instrument cluster) to your new buttons. Just plug them into the correct holes and that should work. You need two wires, one for info and another for select, also the "dummy" buttons should already have a ground.
Hope this helped.

Edit: Read my post on page 20 and look at my first picture. That should clarify where JL1 is and what not http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/181851-bummer-well-i-tried-hero-mpg-20/

Dysan911
03-24-2010, 08:16 PM
Thanks PH!. I was hoping to use the oem switch. The part that ends in 020 that everyone was ordering.

I guess I need to know where those two wires are going. Man, I still can't believe my luck. Even the work trucks have all 8 wires. lol

So on the 8 pin connector. Does anyone know where it goes on JL1?


Dysan I'll try and help you out here... Do you have the upgraded button ready to go? If so since your having this much trouble you could bypass JL1 and just go directly from J28(instrument cluster) to your new buttons. Just plug them into the correct holes and that should work. You need two wires, one for info and another for select, also the "dummy" buttons should already have a ground.
Hope this helped.

Edit: Read my post on page 20 and look at my first picture. That should clarify where JL1 is and what not http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/181851-bummer-well-i-tried-hero-mpg-20/

Dysan911
03-25-2010, 07:39 AM
FWIW, this is my pathetic 8pin Connector. LOL!

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1650/img00047201003241841.th.jpg (http://img705.imageshack.us/i/img00047201003241841.jpg/)

mclerico
03-25-2010, 10:48 AM
FWIW, this is my pathetic 8pin Connector. LOL!

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1650/img00047201003241841.th.jpg (http://img705.imageshack.us/i/img00047201003241841.jpg/)
The white/black wire is your ground (pin 5). Given that, it does look like you are missing wires 2 and 3, which switch the INFO and RESET buttons. It's not all bad tho'. If and when you chosose to run wire, you can run directly from J28 at the combo meter to the switch. If you purchase the cruise control ECM harness (Part#: 00016-01208-02, about $8) from Sparks, it has 2 wires (more than long enough) with the right J28 pins attached. They will click right into the J28 connector. At the other end (INFO switch), I have no idea what pins are needed. However, some people have had luck with just folding the wire over and pushing it into the connector. You have it kinda lucky. You can add the wires at J28, run them to the button location (wires marked of course), put the dash back together, hook up your battery, plug in switch, stuff wires and see if it works. If it does, put a dab of silicone to hold the wires in and call it good. If it doesn't, it can wait for the right pins, and be fixed later in 2 minutes without pulling the dash apart.

Mike

Dysan911
03-25-2010, 11:34 AM
Guys,

I really want to thank you for helping me out here..

Mclerico,

If I follow you correctly, your saying to run Pin # 28 & 30 from the J28 harness straight to the 8 pin connector? Bypassing JL1 completely?

I assume there's no wiring diagram that actually shows where Pin 2 & 3 on the 8pin Harness terminate?






The white/black wire is your ground (pin 5). Given that, it does look like you are missing wires 2 and 3, which switch the INFO and RESET buttons. It's not all bad tho'. If and when you chosose to run wire, you can run directly from J28 at the combo meter to the switch. If you purchase the cruise control ECM harness (Part#: 00016-01208-02, about $8) from Sparks, it has 2 wires (more than long enough) with the right J28 pins attached. They will click right into the J28 connector. At the other end (INFO switch), I have no idea what pins are needed. However, some people have had luck with just folding the wire over and pushing it into the connector. You have it kinda lucky. You can add the wires at J28, run them to the button location (wires marked of course), put the dash back together, hook up your battery, plug in switch, stuff wires and see if it works. If it does, put a dab of silicone to hold the wires in and call it good. If it doesn't, it can wait for the right pins, and be fixed later in 2 minutes without pulling the dash apart.

Mike

PowerHogger
03-25-2010, 12:23 PM
Guys,

If I follow you correctly, your saying to run Pin # 28 & 30 from the J28 harness straight to the 8 pin connector? Bypassing JL1 completely?

I assume there's no wiring diagram that actually shows where Pin 2 & 3 on the 8pin Harness terminate?
Yes

plug the wires into the holes you are missing

Fragman
03-25-2010, 01:45 PM
FWIW, this is my pathetic 8pin Connector. LOL!

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1650/img00047201003241841.th.jpg (http://img705.imageshack.us/i/img00047201003241841.jpg/)

Thats all mine has. Haven't tackled this mod yet though.

mclerico
03-25-2010, 04:10 PM
Guys,

I really want to thank you for helping me out here..

Mclerico,

If I follow you correctly, your saying to run Pin # 28 & 30 from the J28 harness straight to the 8 pin connector? Bypassing JL1 completely?

I assume there's no wiring diagram that actually shows where Pin 2 & 3 on the 8pin Harness terminate?

Yes, you can run wires directly from J28 to the 8 pin connector. There is a PDF posted many times in this thread called the "combination meter" pdf. The very first page has the 8 pin connector (called the "drive monitor switch") and part of the combination meter. At the switch, the wires leaving the switch are labeled with their pin location.
#5 white/black "ground"
#2 light green "Info"
#3 Light blue "Select/reset"
#4 medium blue "Setup/US/M"

If your 8 pin switch connector only has 6 wires, it appears that #2 and #3 are missing. Normally, these would go to the JL1 connector located in the lower left dash (Noted on the same PDF), where they change colors, and continue to connector J28 at the combination meter. I had 8 wires at my 8 pin, and simply wire-tapped at the JL1 connector. In retrospect, it would have been much easier to tap at the switch (8-pin). For those with only 6 wires, the only concern is getting the wire into the 8-pin switch connector. I don't know if folding the wire over and stuffing it in the connector will work. It doesn't require a great connection (really low amps). The nice thing about this option, is if the "stuff" method doesn't work, it is a lot easier to loosen the dash on the right side, pull the switch out and work on it. The JL1 connector is harder to reach. If you are willing to use aftermarket switches, then it gets a whole lot easier.

Mike

P.S. Powerhogger suggested this during his write-up, with pics

PowerHogger
03-25-2010, 05:19 PM
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Stuffing it works great! Haha if you shove something in there along with the wire to keep it in place the connection will be rock solid.

Dysan911
03-27-2010, 09:21 PM
Hey thanks guys!. I just wanted to let you know that I ran wires from J28 pins 28 and 30 and hooked up a couple momentary buttons and everything works great!. I am temporarily going to use the buttons until I get the OEM Switch.

So thanks for everyone's help!

radardude
04-13-2010, 12:46 PM
Thanks to everyone who contribute to figure this mod out. I would like share a mod to the one button switch. You can disassemble the switch and add few home made parts to add two additional buttons. Looking at the photo below you need to remove the dummy buttons and cut off the end so you can add a ink pen spring(which is cut in half). Cut a piece of wood to fit inside the switch groove making sure it not above the top of the groove. Cut a slot in the end of the wood block. Cut a short piece of the plastic ink tube for a spring guide. Glue it in wood slot. To make the metal contacts, I use a piece of flashing (the type used for exterior home use). Cut it to match the existing one and bend it to shape. Now glue it to the block of wood. Just look at the photo below to figure everything out. Good luck

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3189/tundrainfoswitch.jpg

PowerHogger
04-13-2010, 03:15 PM
Very very nice radardude

SE2000
04-13-2010, 03:23 PM
I was at my dealer and looked at all the trucks there and all the owned ones had the right switch installed. But only a couple of the new ones.

PoPo
04-13-2010, 04:10 PM
I was at my dealer and looked at all the trucks there and all the owned ones had the right switch installed. But only a couple of the new ones.Sorry bro - I'm trying to understand your post, but maybe I'm too sober :confuseda: :)

07Tundra350
05-26-2010, 08:28 PM
Finally got all the parts to complete this mod on my 07 RCLB SR5. Just wanted to say thanks to Nydegger for the JL1 pins and all the rest of you guys for blazing the trail to help me activate the MPG calculations!!

Mistermouser
06-25-2010, 09:00 PM
I've replaced the drive monitor switch and accessory meter, run the wires from the drive monitor switch for the info and reset buttons, connected the wires to the back of the J28 connector and......nothing!! I've tried pins in the J28 and bare wires and have noticed that the pins or wires don't make it through the connector like the other pins, is there a secondary latch on the plastic connector that has to be unlatched first? if so, how do you do that. Thanks much! :)

saki302
06-25-2010, 09:31 PM
There's a latch-ish thing on the connector- carefully push in the tabs on the ends and pry it up, it'll allow you to shove the connectors in a little deeper.

-Dave

PoPo
06-25-2010, 10:08 PM
Updated Post 1 with the new thread for the completed MOD: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/192965-official-how-add-mpg-buttons-thread/#post1502842

BamaDave
08-07-2010, 05:01 PM
I have a 07 RCSB, and need to know if a procedure using the factory buttons has been determined for adding this Mod for my Tundra. Apologies for asking something that I’m sure has been addressed but in all I read this would not work for my model. Thanks! David

PoPo
08-07-2010, 05:05 PM
Bama Dave - Read the post directly above yours... there's a link to the new thread which will show you how to complete the MOD.

BamaDave
08-07-2010, 05:16 PM
Thanks just found and you beat me to deleting my response to this thread. Excellent job in your posting!


Bama Dave - Read the post directly above yours... there's a link to the new thread which will show you how to complete the MOD.

ffearless
11-20-2010, 11:58 PM
Thanks for the great thread. I installed the info switch and ran 2 wires and wala. I now have the information I wanted. Thanks again!

WanderingShadow
09-10-2012, 04:48 PM
I know I'm reviving a old thread, sorry. But is there anyway anyone has a pic of the connection that is the right one? So I can see if this mod would work on mine? /: I've been trying to research this for months. But haven't found a pic of the connection anywhere. I've even asked two members haha. No luck.

PoPo
09-10-2012, 04:52 PM
I know I'm reviving a old thread, sorry. But is there anyway anyone has a pic of the connection that is the right one? So I can see if this mod would work on mine? /: I've been trying to research this for months. But haven't found a pic of the connection anywhere. I've even asked two members haha. No luck.Please go here: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/192965-official-how-add-mpg-buttons-thread/

Bamafever41
11-15-2012, 05:00 PM
Do all 2010 Tundras have the mpg display? My Tundra is plain with bench seat and I have been upgrading since purchase. I saw this posting and purchased the new switch hoping it would be the plug n play install. The blank was prewired with the 8wire plug. The only switch I could get to work was the outside temp which will change from Celsius to Fahrenheit. No mpg or miles to empty.

PoPo
11-19-2012, 10:38 PM
Do all 2010 Tundras have the mpg display? My Tundra is plain with bench seat and I have been upgrading since purchase. I saw this posting and purchased the new switch hoping it would be the plug n play install. The blank was prewired with the 8wire plug. The only switch I could get to work was the outside temp which will change from Celsius to Fahrenheit. No mpg or miles to empty.Please read the following thread: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/192965-official-how-add-mpg-buttons-thread/

fester3183
03-14-2013, 08:54 AM
(2013 Crew Max 4.6 4x4 TSS)

Ordered my drive monitor switch (84977-0C020) lastnight for $77.00. Tried the paper clip trick this morning and bam I was cycling through my MPGs , Avg , Instant , and Distance to Empty. Cant wait for the switch to get here now!