http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tundrasolutions/jndefibafora.html

the one that is in the tundra store...

im planning to use a Jl Audio W3 10"

and something comparable to the JL 250/1



and u have to seal the inside of that stoarage area?
what did u guys use?

and how is teh SQ ?

would the JL Audio cone have any clearence problems when the
seat is down?

or does it have any cleaerence problem with the depth of the magnet?

thanks in advance,

im just so tired of the no bass thing, grrrrr


paulm

Hey, Paul. I will give you some of the factual stuff and let others provide their opinions, since I am biased of course.:D

With the baffle in place you will have a max 6" mounting depth, so the 10W3 will be fine. The lip on the baffle is roughly 3/4" tall to give MOST speakers enough clearance to play up to 80% of their potential with the seat down. I have an Elemental Desings e10k and it does very well with the seat down. At higher volumes the subwoofers surround will make contact with the seat and muffle the output.

You do need to seal the compartment. There is a full fiberglass how to in the garage section of TS, with pics and all. It costs about $30 and takes 4 hours or so to complete. The other method of sealing the compartment is to use sound deadener to cover up the larger holes and use expanding foam to seal around the bottom edge, between the truck and the compartment, and near the center of the compartment.

The new Infinity Kappa Perfect seems to be quite thick from the mounting flange to the top of the surround. I am working with IMDONE to come up with a BP02 with a 1 5/16" thick lip to give this beast of a subwoofer the clearance it needs. We'll keep you posted as to the progress of the BP02. The concern I have with this new baffle is the seat might not "sit" properly with the tall baffle under it.

Thanks for the question and feel free to ask further questions.
-Mark

Paul,
You'll love it. I just added it with an eD10K to a system with a stealthbox with a 10W3. It really hits. Check out My Photos and this THREAD (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18282) for more info.

The BP01 is outstanding. As JnEsPappa wrote he is in the process of making the BP02 which will allow a larger clearance for the new IKP10.1

Apparently this speaker is a little taller than the last.

I have an IKP 10.1 with a USX2100 The sound is outstanding. You will not be disappointed.

Lets get back to the subject of the seat muffling out the output. That is the only problem I have noticed about my new sub. I will start another thread on it but maybe you have some fixes. I have ample clearance with my 10" sub when the seat is down. At louder volumes it sounds like the insides of the seat are shaking and gives a real bad sound. Anyone figure out a solution to this?

Justin, have you considered the " Remove the entire back set mod" ????:D :D

Hah, nope. I still want my seat there!

Justin. Have you done the rear seat angle mod. I did this after I put my BP01 in and found it made a difference. I will still need the BP02 but the rear seat angle did help.

I just found out about this cool baffle! :)

Isn't there something that can be applied/attached to the bottom of the seat to make it sound better? I still need my seats obviously, or it would be a moot point. ;)

Jeff

It's the best sounding stealth install that I have ever heard. I've listened to a few JL stealthboxes, qlogic, and even a custom box in the same place as this BP01 one and jnespappa's blow them away. I'd definitely get his if I didn't already have my big sub behind my seat.

If anyone else had my problem (fabric flexing and almost being sucked down into the woofer), I recommend putting a thin piece of wood in the bottom of your seat. It gives the sub a reflective surface and eliminates it vibrating the entire seat. It made all the difference for me. At any moderate volume it sounds great, but when I want to crank it I still have to put my seat up. I do have a JL10w3v2 with a 250/1 amp powering it (in a custom box). Good fit, awesome sound. I have been entirely too lazy to post pictures, but if you are interested look for them tomorrow.

If anyone else had my problem (fabric flexing and almost being sucked down into the woofer), I recommend putting a thin piece of wood in the bottom of your seat. It gives the sub a reflective surface and eliminates it vibrating the entire seat. It made all the difference for me. At any moderate volume it sounds great, but when I want to crank it I still have to put my seat up. I do have a JL10w3v2 with a 250/1 amp powering it (in a custom box). Good fit, awesome sound. I have been entirely too lazy to post pictures, but if you are interested look for them tomorrow.

To clear up some confusion, Justin534 was not using the JnEsPappa BP01.

The thread: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18718

I just got a JL Audio 10w6 the original version, not the second and was wondering if i get your baffle if it will fit and have proper air space for sealed. I will be running 300 watts rms to it, so need it to be perfect. also i was thinking about that kicker sub protector thing that is metal to put over the sub so it doesnt hit the seat when it hits hard...anyone tried this? i think it will work

I just got a JL Audio 10w6 the original version, not the second and was wondering if i get your baffle if it will fit and have proper air space for sealed. I will be running 300 watts rms to it, so need it to be perfect. also i was thinking about that kicker sub protector thing that is metal to put over the sub so it doesnt hit the seat when it hits hard...anyone tried this? i think it will work


Nice woofer. The specs (if I saw the correct ones on the JL web site) look well suited for the rear storage compartment, for both volume (0.4~0.8 cubes sealed) and mounting depth (4.875").

The newer baffles have a 1 1/4" tall raised lip to give plenty of clearance from the top of the sub to the seat bottom. There really is no need for a grill on top of the baffle, and I think it would look odd.

Check out IMDONE's pics of the baffle in his gallery: **HERE** (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10593&password=&sort=1&cat=998&page=1) For reference, IMDONE measured the Infinity woofer as being about 1" thick from the mounting flange up.

In general, the cast aluminum baskets are going to make the driver stick up above the baffle a little more than the steel baskets, especially the Infinity Perfect 10.1d. If you have any clearance issues on the botton, it's nothing a hammer can't take care of to make the floorpan a little deeper.

To clear up some confusion, Justin534 was not using the JnEsPappa BP01.

The thread: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18718


That is correct, I am not using the jnespappa baffle. My pics are posted if you want to see what my subwoofer setup looks like.

I've got a stealthbox on order and hoping it'll satisfy that hip-hop/rap bass sound I'm wanting. Just curious what the differences are between the baffle and the stealthbox. As far as which has has better SQ, SPL, which gives a lower, tighter bass, etc. How do the vibrations through the truck compare between the two? The stealthbox is much more expensive, but is it better overall?