I have a 2010 Tundra CM Platinum with no/TRD package. I bought it with 30k miles and it handled a bit boaty. So I added a rear sway bar and opted for the Bilsteins set at the highest position.

I bought the shocks from Shockwarehouse (F4-BE5-E428-HO) with our 5% discount, but I didnt want to do the job myself, so I took it to the stealership. They quoted me 2 @ $85/hr. and a $60 alignment. $230 sounded fine to me, so I left it there this morning. This afternoon, I got a call from the service writer who said "the tech found that the bottom shock perch was too big and the OEM shock wont fit around it".

I have never heard anyone else mention this at all. I downloaded all the pics I could find of installs from newsgroups and the perch looks identical. I have a feeling the tech was right because there are a couple of nicks half way down the perch where the black paint is chipped. That showed where the spring landed while compressing, and the perch appears to be about a half inch too fat.

Has anyone else heard of such a thing?

I heard about this on here or Tundra Talk. Just search, I read that some of the 2010s got the new 2011 front end parts.

I dont think that is the issue. My build date was 07/2009. Tooling for 2011 Tundras was not even done yet. I asked the stealership parts guy how many different springs are available for the 2010 Tundras and he told me 16. I think that Bilstein has not completely developed this product line yet. For anyone on the fence whether or not to do a Bilstein 5100 levelling job, beware there is no guarantee they will fit :(

My bad, Chris at Shockwarehouse just let me know that it is a product issue with Bilstein and he is going to get a couple of correct botom spring perches from Bilstein out to me.

Apparently, there has been a few batches that had incorrectly sized perches in the packaging.

I had the same problem. I had mine apart in my friends driveway, and we realized that the coil bucket/perch was different. I blew the passenger side shock and it would not fit in the garage at work. My truck has a build date of August 2009.

I ended up using the stock bucket from the stock shocks as the shock body was the same size. The stock Bilstein's have the same style, were the ring holds the bucket on the shock, it just glued on. I called Bilstein's, and they are sending me the correct perch for the shocks.

I stopped by my dealer today to see if the lower control arm, strut, or upper mount are different between 2010 and 2011. From what we could find out that anything built from 04/09 to current is the same... To me that says there is no change between 2010 and 2011 models. I am currently on the fence waiting to figure this out and when I do I will be putting the 5100 on my 2010 Platinum.

Well, true to their words, Shockwarehouse had Bilstein drop ship new perches (two days)....Nice!

The mechanic was on vacation, but returned today. Truck was done by noon. The smaller perches were spot on.

It was suggested in this forum: "after a build date of 4/2009, all Tundras came with a smaller spring". I cannot verify that, but I can verify that the 2007-2010 replacement 5100's (F4-BE5-E428-HO) came with a perch with a 113mm diameter. My old perch and the new replacement perch that worked had a diameter of 96mm.

Moral to this story is measure your lower perch before ordering and you wont have to learn the hard way.

Hope this helps someone :)

Now, one more time I will reiterate that I cannot speak for all Tundras, but mine is a 2010 Crewmax Platinum, 2WD, no TRD, (33,000 miles), smaller springs:

Before the swap, I had 2.25" of rake
I had the 5100's adjusted at maximum pre-load
After the swap, I have -.5" rake

Thats right, I measured in the same location and I now have a negative rake. For anyone on the fence and they have a similar vehicle as me, go for the middle pre-load or be prepared to put a 1" block in the back.

I cannot because I have the TRD sway bar, so I will be getting them adjusted again by the stealership.......I hate being a guinea pig :(

Why would the trd sway bar stop you from using lift blocks? Would it also stop you from using lift shackles?

Just run an Add-a-leaf. Better than a block anyway. We have a Single Leaf set that will provide about an inch of lift, and stiffen up the pack about 10-15%. We also have a 3 Leaf set that provides about 3/4" of lift, and helps the rear end ride smoother.

Just run an Add-a-leaf. Better than a block anyway...

How, exactly?

A block is just a spacer, and also the taller the block, the more likely for axle wrap issues.

Ok, lets say I have a Camburg shackle already (not installed), and a TRD anti-sway bar already installed. Is the presence of the Sway bar going to stop me from mounting the shackles?

Nope, but kind of counter productive dont you think? Usually, lifting a truck is done to facilitate its usefulness offroad. Adding a huge stiff swaybar will ruin any offroad capability so why even try to add the two.

And to answer again, yes you can run the two.. as long as the shackle isnt for like 6 inches of lift or anything crazy like that.

I am aware that having the anti sway bar will affect rear articulation. But I do want to lift the rear just a bit, but don't think I need "rock-climbing" articulation. Thank you for answering the question, though.