I have a White 2010 DC 5.7 4x4 TRD with tow package. I purchased a 2002 Trail Bay 31BHSS TT that has a listed UVW of 5900 and a GVWR of 9500. Thinking that the Tundra could handle this . Last weekend I towed it for the first time on level ground. Everything seemed good until I stopped at the scale. First I weighed the Tundra with me and my wife, two dogs,some tools and fuel. It weighed 6420#. Then I weighed the Tundra with the TT hitched up with 1,000# bars and the truck weighed 7340# and the TT weighed 6180#. That puts the tongue weight at 920# and the TT at 7100#. The TT had full propane tanks, a 1/2 tank of water, empty holding tanks, very little gear. The Tundra GVWR is 7100# and the GCWR is 16,000#. So the TT is about 700# over its listed UVW. The GVWR of the Tundra is overloaded by 240# and the GCWR is well below the 16,000#. The Tundra pulls and stops the TT good. Maybe my wife and dogs can run along side and then I will be under 7100#. There is not much capacity with passengers.:)

You could always put them in the back of the trailer to reduce your tongue weight.
Is this your first trailer? sound like you are new to trailering.
If you are new, I was kidding about putting them in the trailer

Yes I am new to trailering but not to rving. Who would have thought a Tundra would be overloaded with a 7,000# trailer. The towing capacities of trucks and the advertised weights of trailers are misleading. I don't plan on towing this trailer all over the place, mainly park it a several parks at different times of the year here in N. California.

you shouldnt have anything to worry about. lots of people here are way worse off than you are. might not hurt to put on a good set of e rated tires. and how did the trailer sit on the truck? did it drop alot? with a wdh set up properly you should not get any squat really. maybe an inch or two.

Thanks Crewmax Buddy. I had the stock BFG tires pumped up to 44psi max. That worked good. The WD hitch is an EAZ Lift w/ 1,000# round bars I got for $75 off of Craigslist. The truck sags a couple of inches but when I snap up the bars it levels out pretty good. I might need 1,200# bars. If I drain the forward fresh water tank and store gear aft the GVWR might be pretty close. I can't add much weight to the truck though. Next time I am back to my trailer I'll check it again on the CAT scale at the truck stop in Lodi.

alittle tip for the hitch, put the tongue on the ball and just start to put some weight on the truck and do your bars as tight as you can(dont know if that set up has chains) and then lower down the tongue. if it makes you feel better i am alot heavier than you with no problems what so ever. but i also have firestone airbags which is another option you might want to look into if you plan on towing often.

I have a White 2010 DC 5.7 4x4 TRD with tow package. I purchased a 2002 Trail Bay 31BHSS TT that has a listed UVW of 5900 and a GVWR of 9500. Thinking that the Tundra could handle this . Last weekend I towed it for the first time on level ground. Everything seemed good until I stopped at the scale. First I weighed the Tundra with me and my wife, two dogs,some tools and fuel. It weighed 6420#. Then I weighed the Tundra with the TT hitched up with 1,000# bars and the truck weighed 7340# and the TT weighed 6180#. That puts the tongue weight at 920# and the TT at 7100#. The TT had full propane tanks, a 1/2 tank of water, empty holding tanks, very little gear. The Tundra GVWR is 7100# and the GCWR is 16,000#. So the TT is about 700# over its listed UVW. The GVWR of the Tundra is overloaded by 240# and the GCWR is well below the 16,000#. The Tundra pulls and stops the TT good. Maybe my wife and dogs can run along side and then I will be under 7100#. There is not much capacity with passengers.:)

Those numbers look consistent relative to dry vs. actual weights. And as you have discovered, if you want to stay within the ratings, you can't tow 10,000 lbs.

Did you get your individual axle weights? As long as you don't exceed those, you are fine. Do not reduce your hitch weight. It's at 13% and for most travel trailers, that is good. If you reduce it much below 850 lbs, I think you will not like how the trailer pulls. I'd rather have the 920 lbs hitch weight, a little over on GVWR, but have a stable trailer behind me.

You will be fine with that combo. I would get LT tires (C,D or E range are fine). Don't bother with airbags. Your WDH sounds like it is adjusted properly. Enjoy.

Tom

Thanks, Tom. I guess the TRD options are heavier than I thought. Does anybody know the max PSI for the factory TRD rims? Like to see more posts of actual weights of vehicles to compare.

I told my wife to lose weight and dump that stupid lap dog of hers and guess what happened?

It's the best way to have a very quiet road trip. Try it, it works!!

You could always put them in the back of the trailer to reduce your tongue weight:D.
Is this your first trailer? sound like you are new to trailering.
If you are new, I was kidding about putting them in the trailer

Yeah right :wink:, bet you did it, eh! Its okay, I thought about it too.

We put E-rated tires on TRD rims 80 psi.

Are the tpms stems rated to 80psi? I know the rubber push in stems are not

They look like rubber coated metal to me. There is a bunch of us doing 10 ply. You have to reset your tpms for the higher pressure.

They look like rubber coated metal to me. There is a bunch of us doing 10 ply. You have to reset your tpms for the higher pressure.
what do you mean reset them? i run e rated tires and put in 65 psi and havent had anything go off. they work if it gets too low.

If you go to 70 psi my light will sometimes come on by resetting I haven't had a problem in about 2 years. I can reset tire pressure to 55 and no low pressure warning.

If you go to 70 psi my light will sometimes come on by resetting I haven't had a problem in about 2 years. I can reset tire pressure to 55 and no low pressure warning.

Hey Charlie,
When you say "reset" do you mean the method Toyota uses in the manual?
Please explain.
I also run 'E' rated tires but have never put more than 65 psi in them.
It sure made a difference in how the truck handled compared to "P" rated tires.

Bill

I put a set of Michelin MX/2s E tires on my DC right after I bought it. I havn't gotten too concerned because I've only towed mt trailer once with it and it was a short run. How much air should I be running in these tires? Discount Tire said 40# not towing but that seems awfully light for that load rating.

40 to 50 psi is where you should be. it depends on your side walls. you need to check for uneven wear and cupping. but you should be fine. i run at 44psi

I missed this Yes do a reset at the 70 psi the same as if your light came on.

Hello again OP here. I stopped at the Cat Scale in Lodi to check my axle weights. The first weights back in January of the Tundra were 3660# front, 2760# rear for a total of 6420#GVW. Last week with my 31BHSS Trail Bay hitched up with 1,000# bars I weighed 3720#Front, 3620# rear, 6340#trailer axles for a GCWR of 13,680#. That puts a 2" squat on the rear of my Tundra and at 7340#, 240# over GVWR , but well under GCWR and GAWR. I transferd 6o# of the 920#HW to the front axle, witch is probably not enough toward the front. Trailer weight was 7,260# lightly loaded for two. I have an EAZ Lift Hitch rated at 14,000# but my round bars are 1,000#. I know EAZ Lift makes 1,400# bars but they might be stiff. Does anybody know if there are 1,200# bars that would fit. Thanks

I think you're fine with the way you have it setup. I'm also over GVWR but under GCWR and GAWR.

The problem with most TT's and 5er's is the manufacturers list the unloaded weight as a bare trailer with no options, no water, sometimes not even the spare tire. IMHO they should have to list the weight of each option so you have an idea on what it really weighs, or at least something close to it. By the time you load the trailer, fill up the tanks, the added weight is more than you thought. Amazing how the little things add up when combined.
As for stopping, the trailer brakes should be stopping the trailer, not the truck. Some folks say you should find a downhill section, disconnect your controller and see how the truck does. I say, check your connections, and I doubt you will ever have a problem.
As to being overweight, depends on how much, if it is a few hundred pounds, no biggie.
Happy Camping!

Actually that's not true anymore, since 2009 they have to weigh them with all the options as they exit the factory and the sticker reflects the true weight and the true CCC of that specific unit.

Actually that's not true anymore, since 2009 they have to weigh them with all the options as they exit the factory and the sticker reflects the true weight and the true CCC of that specific unit.
IMHO that does not help you much when you already have a truck and are trying to figure out what brand, floorplan, options, etc to purchase, and want to match the trailer to the truck. I wish they would list out the options, example 13K to 15K A/C Upgrade (22 lbs). Then you could take and look at the weight ratings on your truck, then figure out what the approximate unloaded weight is with everything added on before you buy it. I ordered mine as there were none to be found with the colors and options I wanted. In my case it was a crap shoot, what will it weigh when it rolls out the door, I already have a deposit on it. I also wish dealers had to state the weight of any options they add, and where they were added. It would sure help if you were buying it off the lot.

If you have to order, you should be able to get numbers from the mfg. Plus find one close to what you want and check its weight. remember color won't add weight but tiles do