I found a Schwaben csc2600 coil spring compressor at Sears.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902993000P

I want to change shocks on one of my Tundras. Do you guys think this will work well?

Thanks,

Ken

I'll be interested to see if you get any responses. I have all the parts to change my shocks with the coilovers, just need the time to do it. I was thinking of renting a set from Autozone but decided against it.

I've seen some CSC's for sale for much less, but they seem pretty cheesy. It's definitely something you don't want to skimp on. Let me know if you buy it and what you think of the quality. It looked pretty decent in the picture.

John

Forget about the Autozone rental or any other threaded-rod type compressor. For Tundra springs you'll need something really heavy duty.

I know that first hand. The hard way.

The first time I did my shocks, I rented a tool from an auto parts store. Threaded rod type with hooks. I did not like the bending of the rods as it looks scary. Hard to handle also because there is nothing to brace against when wrenching the nuts down. My impact didn't work effectively on those either. Probably not made for that.

The second time I did my shocks, I bought a Clamshell Spring Compressor only to find the hooks didn't fit on my Tundra springs. Our coils are pretty fat. So,
I took them off my truck and drove over to Pep Boys and had them change the shocks for $20 per side ($40 total) and a 2 hour turn around time.

Now I have my wife and sons vehicles coming up on shocks and it would be convienient to have a tool to do this myself. I noticed this tool is made for impact use, has a 2600kg (5720 lb) capacity and a beefy bolt Bolts: 9x50mmL
and the tool weighs 17.3kg (38 lb) so it seems stout. I just have never used this type.

If money and storage space were not an issue, I'd probably go with a Branick or OTC Strut Tamer. I may still do this if I get mad enough.

Thanks,

Ken

I've seen pictures of people who've done them with the auto parts rental compressors with the bending rods. Not really something I'd want to do either. Good luck with whatever you decide on. I'll be watching so make sure you update. I'm a bit off before I do mine.

John

It looks to me like it would depend on whether the curved opening in the shoe portion is big enough to accommodate the diameter of your shock cylinder; that's the first thing I noticed. Then, they show it applied to the end coils of that spring; won't work because the spring has to fit into the seats on the shock. You would have to catch the spring on the second top and bottom coils to get the things seated right. Lastly, unrestrained compressed springs have a tendency to want to get un-compressed and will most often fold out in the center of the spring to get out of the comperssion; as long as there is a shock inside the spring in the compresser, it is fine. As soon as the shock is removed, the spring will be basically unrestrained, and could go sailing. Try squeezing the spring from a ball point pen from both ends to see what I am trying to describe. Only difference is that the ball point pen spring won't do much damage unless it hits someone in the eye; the automotive suspension spring: potentially a big owie. I speak from experience. Upshot of this whole dissertation is: be very careful.

Well, I have headed down a different path and decided to buy a hydraulic press because it is more useful and I saw a little article on how a guy rigged one up to remove a spring from the shock.

See this link: 4x4Wire Project Blackbean- Old Man Emu Suspension (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/projects/blackbean/ome/)

I just need to fab a piece to interface the press ram and hold the shock by the eye. When my project is done, I'll have a press for other useful things like ball joints and bearings and u joints. :)

Here is the press I am ordering: 20 Ton Air/Hydraulic Shop Press w/Gauge - Greg Smith Equipment Sales, Inc (http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/20-Ton-Air-Hydraulic-Shop-Press-w-Gauge-p/ht0805.htm)


Ken
:abduction:

Well I did the job today. I had one of those threaded rod style compressors on hand and even went to the maintenance division where I work and got a clam style compressor. I couldn't get either one around the coils, which probably was a good thing because I would've killed myself. I assume the coilovers on the TRD package are a little beefier which is why I couldn't get it to work.

Anyway, I got the units off the truck no problem and after the aforementioned attempts I took it to a mechanic to have him use the right compressor and disassemble and reassemble the units. He used a wall mount and I could see the resistance he was getting compressing the springs so I know there was no way I would've been able to do it using anything else. Got back and reinstalled both within an hours time. All said and done I still saved about $600.00 that was quoted to me from the stealership, even after paying the mechanic for his services.

John