Hello everyone, does anyone know how to adjust the above? We recently installed a clutch and flywheel and it's about time to adjust the pedal....but there doesn't seem to be any way on this truck?

The adjustment would be on the shaft that goes from the clutch pedal arm to the master cylinder. You should see the threaded shaft and nut if you look up under the dash following the clutch pedal. :D

Are you sure you don't have a cracked clutch pedal support? If it's steel/rust colored...you might want to replace it. The new/updated one is painted black. ;)

Here's the thread (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=333743) that will point you in the right direction about the clutch pedal support bracket. :D

What are the chances of the problem being the pressure plate?

What are the chances of the problem being the pressure plate?

Um...what's the problem? :(

Actually now that you mention it that might help wouldn't it? Lol sorry. Well recently we did a clutch job and its about time to adjust the pedal. Unfortunately I didn't know how when I first posted. Its actually already at its Max though...took me a new clutch master cylinder to figure this part out :(

ANYWAYS the clutch wont engage when the car is cold. Once warmed up it will but not always. The car had been driving well until recently so that's what's throwing me off, I figure if it's the clutch it wouldn't have worked from the get go, right?

I have checked the bracket and believe its the new version since its black.

Could be the throwout bearing sticking? How much grease did you put on the shaft?

Should be a good amount of grease on there.

Anyone?

Did you check to make sure you bled the system correctly? ;)

I have bled the system and it will acquire pressure but once I open the slave and close the pedal will stick to the firewall unless you pull it up and hold it up, otherwise it will continue to be on the floor. My steps:

1. Have brother pump pedal 20 times with hand
2. Hold pedal down.
3. Open slave then close.
4. Repeat.

Tried it a few times with no change. The pumping has to at least be started by hand because the pedal will stick to the firewall until the first 5 pumps as if its being pulled into the firewall.

Just so you know...the clutch master cylinder rod should NOT be extended all the way. There should be some free play in the rod. The video will explain why... ;)

You can try this fer bleeding...start around the 4:00 mark. ;)
Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Replacement and Bleeding Techniques - Import Application - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKV8a0QL5uk&feature=related)

......

Well actually it turned out to be the small pedal that pumps the slave (forgot what it's called, a feeler?). It was cracked when we dropped the tranny.

Well actually it turned out to be the small pedal that pumps the slave (forgot what it's called, a feeler?). It was cracked when we dropped the tranny.

You mean the throw out arm? :p

I guess so lol sorry somehow I ended up with images for bikes in my search for the name of that thing. My cousin should be helping my father with the install today I believe so I'll report back to see if that was indeed the issue.

OK in future reference for anyone else who might have this issue as well, it did happen to be the throwout arm. Transmission is back in place and it feels like new again!

Snap some piccies of the bad one and post it up. Kinda curious on what got bent. :(